Cellar Tours Blog

Portugal´s romantic wine region of Alentejo is a huge area stretching north to south, characterized by its soft rolling hills, wild beaches, cork forests and olive groves. Punctuating the landscape are an array of Arabic castles and medieval towns in surprisingly amazing condition. Alentejo is a beautiful region seemingly trapped in time and due to the history of the last hundred years (when most people abandoned the countryside for the cities), it is not marred by the nasty architecture or the 1960´s and 70´s that you find in other regions. It really does look like it must have centuries ago, and it supremely atmospheric. The most northern main town is Portalegre and in the south, Beja. The cultural epicenter of Alentejo is Évora, a Unesco heritage protected town with a whitewashed historic center, numerous stunning churches and treasures, and an Ancient Roman Temple, dedicated to the goddess Diana.  Driving around the region you will pass gentle hills and miles and miles of cork forests, as well as dry arid landscapes that look look like a scene in the movie “Out of Africa”.

Alentejo is also the region making Portugal´s most exciting dry wines, real knockouts.  Expect “monster reds” and rich, heavy whites.  Portuguese grapes used in Alentejo include (WHITE) Arinto and Antao Vaz, and (RED) Alicante Bouschet, Aragones and Alfrocheiro. Syrah and Cabernet Sauvignon, international varietals, are also widely used. Leading estates include the superb Cortes de Cima, the one-and-only Esporão (who apart from excellent wines make amazing olive oil and cheese), Quinta do Carmo (owned by Bordeaux´s Rothschilds),  Joao Portugal Ramos, Herdade das Servas, beautiful Monte da Ravasqueira,  the lovely estate of Monte Seis Reis, and the fabulous Tapada dos Colheiros.  Alentejo has always had quite a massive amount of international investment and foreign flying winemakers and recent projects and additions include Sonho Lusitano´s Richard Mayson (ex- wine writer for Decanter magazine); Australian Alison Gomes at Azamor;  and Quinta do Zambujeiro (owned by Emil Stricker, a Swissman based in Singapore, how´s that for international??)

WHAT TO DO- Visit wine estates and do some touring and tasting (some are open to the general public if you book the visit beforehand) or contact us if you would like a private luxury chauffeured tour; stay a few nights in Évora and visit the outrageous and creepy Capela dos Ossos (Bones Chapel), taste some vinho in the enoteca right next door to the Pousada, and soak up the historic atmosphere; Don´t miss beautiful Marvão (one of our favorite places in Portugal!) with its castle and breathtaking views over the valley (there is a colony of eagles here); the whitewashed hamlet of Estremoz, with its many wineries; the ancient Jewish town of Castelo do Vide; the medieval castle in Évoramonte; the olive oil museum and castle in Moura; learn how to cook traditional Alentejo cuisine at the Refugio da Vila.

To visualize the region, here is a video (in Portuguese) that features top winery Esporão (an interview with the winemaker), and some great photography of this wine estate, the wine country and Alentejo

WHERE TO STAY- Without a doubt, the best place to stay is the gorgeous, luxurious 5* Convento do Espinheiro in Évora with a terrific restaurant, spa and sprawling country grounds; for unbelievable romance, lucury and escaping from it all (really, as this hotel is in the middle of nowhere!), the Pousada Flor de Rosa in Crato is exquisite;

WHERE TO EAT- “Must Eats” include the Restaurante Adega do Isaías in Estremoz, rustic, wonderful and “the” place for pork; the wonderful refined restaurant at the Esporão wine estate, Divinus restaurant at the Convento do Espinheiro hotel in Évora; for non nonsense trad cooking, Restaurante Sever in Marvao. Typical local dishes include Carne de Porco à Alentejana (pork with clams and cilantro) and “Migas” (breadcrumbs fried with chourizo. Check out info on Alentejo gastronomy here.

We have long loved the Aeolian Islands in Sicily for their dramatic beauty and heart-stopping scenery including their volcanoes “fireworks shows”. It was a recent research trip to these islands again, where we discovered that apart from stunning beauty and some of our favorite luxury hotels, they are also home to some of Sicily´s most interesting wines!

The Isole Aeoli, as they are know in Italian, are comprised of a string of islands located off the northeast coast of Sicily-Alicudi (a mere two square miles big) , Filicudi, Salina (home to some of the flagship wineries and also famed for its capers) , Panarea (a tiny exclusive isle that receives celebrities and VIPs to its hip hotels), the microscopic Basiluzzo islet, Stromboli (immortalized in the Ingrid Bergman film, directed by Roberto Rossellini), Lipari (the most lively and populated island)  and Vulcano (the closest island to the Sicily). The islands are Unesco protected and are one of the most important locations in the world for volcano scientists.

Now to the wine…. the wine that has firmly placed itself in the hearts and minds of wine lovers is the delicately sweet Passito wine made in the Malvasia delle Lipari appellation. This rare dessert wine is made by leaving ripe grapes on bamboo mats in the sun for nearly 2 weeks and allowing the sugars to concentrate before then pressing them and leaving them to slow ferment in casks.  The result is an elixir sweet wine with just enough refreshing acidity, and typical flavors would include dried apricots, marmalade and dried figs. Production is small and the wine is highly prized.

The most famed wine producer in the Aeolian Islands has to be Hauner (whose founder Carlo, now passed away, is credited with bringing this wine an almost cult status and who was actually from Brescia, land of Franciacorta) . The Hauner Passito is colorfully described by the Italian wine bible Gambero Rosso as “flaunting nuances of Mediterranean scrubland and delicious echoes of candied citrus”. Other small boutique wine producers in Salina include Virgona, Marchetta and Giona. Many Sicilian wineries located in other regions, from Etna to Marsala, are producing small amounts of the Passito wines such as the historic Colosi, Florio, Barone di Villagrande, and Tasca d´Almerita who also have a luxurious little hotel in their vineyards. Grapes cultivated in the islands (mainly Salina) include (WHITE) Insolia, Grecanico, Malvasia, Cataratto,  Grillo,  and (RED) Nero D’avola, Nerello Mascalese, Calabrese, Corinto Nero and Sangiovese. The grapes used for the Passito wines include up to 95% Malvasia di Lipari and up to 5% Corinto Nero.

WINE TOURS- Wine Tourism is not established for non Italian speakers and the nature of the wineries in the Aeolian Islands is small and often family run. You can try to contact the cellars on your own through the Consorzio or for private chauffeured luxury tours, contact us. Apart from wineries, you can taste the Aeolian wines at a number of wine shops (enotecas) and outstanding seafood restaurants, especially in Lipari and Salina.

WHAT TO SEE- The best way to visit the Aeolian Islands is by private boat, as there are so many grottos, isolated beaches and coves only reachable by sea. There are also numerous public boats and ferries taking you to the main harbors of the islands.  The Sicilian port of Milazzo is where you will depart for the islands.  Salina- on this green island, you can visit wine estates, sleep in the vineyards, take walks from the harbor  up to the island´s other hamlets and the Spiaggia di Pollara is a beautiful beach with its own bay; Lipari has a charmng harbor, an 11th century Norman cathedral and an archeological museum. Also visit the Belvedere Quattrocchi (Four Eyes) viewpoint and the Aquacalda beach. Vulcano is named after the Roman God of Fire and Metalworking, and the island has three volcanic craters which you can climb as well as a volcanic mudbath, natural pool and thermal baths, not to mention blacksand beaches.  Panarea is for luxury and relaxation. Stromboli has an active volcanic crater and a gorgeous craggy coastline. You can visit the Vulcanological Observatory and take a nighttime boat excursion to see the “Sciara del Fuoco”, and see lava exploding out into the sea!

WHERE TO STAY- The Aeolian Islands contain some fabulous small boutique hotels and attracts an international jet set every summer.  See where Il Postino was filmed and where their cast stayed at the charming  Hotel Signum in Salina. Also in Salina is the romantic new wine resort Capofaro, owned by the prestigious Tasca d´Almerita winery. The Hotel Raya in exquisite Panarea is a haven for design lovers and  many famous visitors flock here for its exclusive hideaway atmosphere. Another luxurious little hotel is the Quartara with such original Sicilian finishings as Lava stone flooring!

Cured ham has been recognized for its health properties since the Antiquities. Hipocrates himself recommended patients to “eat more ham”. Oleic acid is the main fat component in cured hams, a “Good Cholesterol” compound also found in Olive Oil. In Southern Europe, small but regular (almost daily) amounts of ham form part of the Mediterranean Diet. While Italian Prosciutto and other hams are well known outside of Italy, Spanish “Jamón” (artisan cured hams) is an expensive delicacy that has been until relatively recently a best-kept secret in Spain. However, the secret is out and Jamón is increasingly treasured by foodies all over the world. There are two main categories of Jamón- the Iberian Ham (Jamón Ibérico) and Mountain Ham (Jamón Serrano).  Both are cured hams made by salting (with Sal de Mar) and hang drying in cellars with natural ventilation for over a year. Serrano is aged usually for a year and a half while the much more exclusive and expensive Ibérico is aged up to 3 years.  There are a range of native breeds of pig such as the Cerdo Ibérico whose hams are often called “Pata Negra” after their black hoofs. Jamón Ibérico represents a fraction of the ham production in Spain, and has different sub categories of ultra high quality sublime hams.

BEST JAMÓN- The most glorious and hedonistic ham of all in our opinion is the Jamón de Bellota,  a type of Ibérico. It is made by allowing the pigs to munch and “pig out” on acorns that fall from the oak trees on the peaceful “Dehesas” (the name of the type of grassland meadows where the Iberian pigs graze, located all over central and Southern Spain such as Extremadura, Salamanca,Huelva, Sevilla Córdoba,  and Castilla La Mancha ). The paper thinly sliced Bellota melts in your mouth literally and can be served as a “tapa” or “pintxo”, accompanied by a fine Jerez wine like the nutty Amontillado.

HOW TO SERVE JÁMON- the ham leg (and hoof) is placed into a “jamonero”, a base that sits on the counter (seen in virtually all good bars and restaurants in Spain, as well as private homes). Then, the real art form, is the slicing of the ham. It must be by hand with an extra sharp knife and sliced as thinly as possible.  The art of cutting ham is seen in Spain as serious as the art of cooking or wine, and “ham slicers” are as highly regarded as top sommeliers. Spain Gourmet magazine recently published a fascinating article about the “Ham Slicer Extraordinaire” world champion Florencio Sanchidrián who has sliced for dignitaries and celebrities as varied as Robert Dinero, Pope John Paul II and of course the King of Spain, Juan Carlos- a well known gourmet and lover of the “Buena Vida” (the good life).

In Sicily´s Baroque Val di Noto you´ll discover the tiny town of Modica. Modica is on the map for worldwide foodies as apart from being a beguiling village already worthy of a visit, it  is also home to one of the best chocolate companies in Italy (a country with an amazing chocolate tradition), the beloved L’Antica Dolceria Bonajuto. We traveled to Modica ourselves this past April to check it out, and did we ever fall in love!

Modica is one of the most special little romantic corners of Sicily with its abundance of Baroque Churches and Palaces, and pretty squares lines with palm trees.  Highlights would include the magnificent Duomo (di San Giorgio), the Chiesa di San Pietro (with its stunning intricately designed ceiling) and countless chapels, churches, monasteries and private palazzos, cobblestoned narrow walkways… Modica is said to have 100 churches! Plan on spending at least a day here, to allow for time for chocolate tasting, sightseeing and fine dining at the superb La Gazza Ladra. Now, about the chocolate…..

L’Antica Dolceria Bonajuto is a legend. The story dates back to 1880 when founder Francesco Bonajuto established the little shop as a patisserie and dessert shop. he used ancient Spanish chocolate recipes brought to Sicily centuries before that in turn had been gleened from Ancient Aztec recipes (”Xocòatl azteca”). Today, this particular chocolate maker has a major cult following and some of their handmade products include:”Cioccolato all Cannella ed alla Vangilia” (Vanilla and Cinnamon Chocolate), Arabian Orange “Torrone”, ´Mpanatigghi biscotti, delicious Nucatoli (with dried figs), and oh, so much more! Another added element that we love about Bonajuto is that they are an “ethical” chocolate producer.

Here is a Video (in Italian) about L’Antica Dolceria Bonajuto-

Another great chocolate producer in Modica is the Laboratorio Dolciario Artigianale Don Giuseppe Puglisi, located on the Via de Naro. They make an excellent range of artisan products, all lovingly packed in gift boxes. Apart from the now classic Cioccolata Modicana, they also make ‘Mpanatigghie, and tasty “Savoy Sweets (”Dolce Savoia”) with almonds and chocolate.

WINE TASTING-The wine country in Sicily is varied and rich and you could easily spend three weeks visiting all the different regions. Near Modica you have the Cerasuolo di Vittoria appellation with well loved wine estates like Cos and lesser know delightful gems like Occhipinti.  There are vineyards scattered all over the southeast from Noto to Syracuse and further north at Mount Etna. The Aeolian Islands off the northeastern coast are gorgeous and home to the Malvasia delle Lipari appellation as well as a beautiful wine hotel. Western Sicily then is famous for Marsala, and there are prestigious estates located throughout the western half of the island like the Planeta “contrada” in Sambuca di Sicilia and Tasca d´Almerita.

Check out our private VIP Wine Touring itineraries in Western Sicily and Taormina and Etna.

WHEN TO GO- summer is high season in Sicily and HOT, so best months would be May, June, September and October. Spring is also lovely as wild flowers fill the valleys and there are some colorful festivities around Easter time.

WHERE TO STAY- If you want to be right in Modica, the cute Orangerie is a cozy informal B&B. The Palazzo Failla is  a nice historic 4* and the Villa Cannizzo is a pretty 3 * set in the countryside in a recently restored villa. For ultra luxury (and included in our wine tours) is the Eremo della Giubliana near Ragusa.

WHERE TO DINE- The “not to miss” ristorante of Modica is La Gazza Ladra, located inside the elegant Palazzo Failla. The Torre d ´Oriente is atmopsheric and sophisticated.

Asturias is one of the least explored and most beautiful regions in Spain.  Located in the glorious north on the Costa Verde (Green Coast), Asturias is situated to the east of Galicia and west of Cantabria and Basque Country. This is about as different a Spain as you could imagine.  Far from flamenco, paella, sherry and bull fighting, Asturias is a lush and misty region that quite resembles Ireland. The rugged coast is achingly beautiful, punctuated with coves and cliffs between its charming and colorful fishing villages such as Tazones, Cudillero, Luarca, and Llanes.  The bagpipes are regularly practiced by college students in the region´s city squares.  And whereas olive oil is de rigeur throughout the rest of Spain, butter is the norm here (you will see cows everywhere!).  Asturias is a treasure trove for artisan cheeses.   The Picos de Europa mountains, straddling Asturias and Cantabria, are a magnificent area to discover some of Spain´s best scenery and hiking. Not to mention fabulous country cuisine like heavenly fabada, a butter bean slow-cooked stew.  Asturias is also home to some of the most captivating pre-Romanesque churches in Europe such as the sublime Santa Maria del Naranco. While in Asturias, there are two things you cannot miss under any circumstances- cabrales and cider!

Cabrales is a delicious blue cow´s milk based cheese (blended with goat and sheep milk), similar in production to Roquefort, and made in Asturias.  Cabrales is considered to be one of the best blue cheeses in the world, alongside Gorgonzola and the aforementioned Roquefort. The artisan producers are governed by the Consejo Regulador board, established in 1981 with the appellation as a quality control. The cheeses are matured in caves with an approximate humidity of 90% and natural ventilation aided by the “soplaos” (currents of air that naturally circulate the cuevas, translates as “breaths”).  This cheese pairs magically with late harvest wines, Muscats/ Moscatos and sweeties like PX  (Pedro Ximenez sherry). Another common way of using it is in sauces to top savory steaks (like chuletón).  You can visit a cheese cave as part of a gourmet walking tour in the hills in Arenas del Cabrales (we set this up for guests). In this same village, located right in the Picos de Europa Mountains, the Cabrales Cheese Fiesta and Competition, called the Feria del Cabrales”, takes place on the last Sunday in August (so this summer it falls on August 31). You´ll be able to see the ancient cheese-making process, check out folkloric  tournaments, and parades, and of course enjoy tastings of Cabrales.

Great cheese/gourmet shops in Asturias- La Casa del Quesu in Cabrales and the outstanding La Barata in Cangas de Onis, a charming town located on the Rio Sella that is a hub for mountain hikers.

Cider, called Sidra in Spanish, is produced all over the north. In Asturias the main centers of production and apple orchards are around the towns of Nava and Villaviciosa, and also close to the city of Gijòn. After pressing the apples, they ferment naturally and then mature for about 5 months until bottling.  The alcohol content varies but is usually about 5-6 %, similar to some beers. “Sidra” is also effervescent due to the natural yeasts present, but except for a few cases of cheap cider imitations, Spanish cider is not carbonated. .  Cider bars in Asturias are called  a “Chigre”, whereas in the rest of Spain they are called a “Sidreria”. The cider houses where this delicious drink is produced are called “llagars” and a few of them can be visited. The funnest part of cider tasting in Asturias is being served your drink. A trained “escanciador”, or cider server, takes the bottle with the right hand and lifts the arm above the head. With  a straight back and a serious expression on the face, the escanciador pours the cider from about 2 feet up in the air into the special glass, without missing and hitting the floor (which is what will happen when you try to do this!). The objective is to “break” the cider in the glass, giving it a quick injection of air bubbles, and you should drink the cider immediately after pouring. Good brands of Sidra include Gaitero and Fanjul.

There is a Cider Museum in Nava, and this is where the cider festival is held (see web in Spanish) every year in July.

WHAT TO DO AND SEE- The coastal villages of Llanes and Cudillero are a must.  There are countless, splendid beaches along the Asturian coastline, including Playa de La Ballota, Playa de la Vega, Playa de Rodiles, and the la Playa del Silencio. Oviedo, the cultural capital, is a delightful small city whose biggest fan is Woody Allen. The pleasant seaside city of Gijón holds an annual international film festival. While quite touristy, history buffs should head to Covadonga, nicknamed “Cradle of the Reconquest”. 2008 is also a jubilee holy year for the Sanctuary of Covadonga and thousands of Catholic pilgrims will be visiting this year.  Of course for nature lovers and hikers,  Asturias is a natural paradise.

WHERE TO STAY- Asturias has many quaint hotels and some of our favorite little boutique gems for special stays in Asturias include: The “El Habana” in Llanes,  “Casona de la Paca” in Cudillero, “El Babu” in Caravia and the newly inaugurated beautiful 5* Palacio de Luces near the pretty fishing village of Lastres.

WHERE TO EAT- for hearty country cooking, it´s impossible to get a bad fabada in Asturias. For more refined meals, check out the gourmet hub of Arriondas at Casa Marcial and El Corral del Indianu. A few miles from Oviedo you have L´Alezna with star chef Pedro Martino and Casa Gerardo in Prendes near Gijón is great for high end dining. In case you haven´t heard of the gregarious Asturian celebrity TV chef and restaurateur (in the USA) José Andrés, check out his great website, full of interesting info on him, on Spain, on cuisine, Asturias and much more.

INTERESTING- Read about Asturian migration to the USA

Puxa Asturies, Viva Asturias!

This past weekend we enjoyed a lovely research trip at the Parador of Chinchón, a tiny little historic village, located about an hour south of Madrid, on the way to the Royal gardens of Aranjuez. The spec of a village is comprised of an arcaded medieval main square (lined with 235 wooden and brightly painted balconies), a castle in ruins, a few narrow little streets lined with old mansions, and an abundance of excellent restaurants. The Plaza Mayor (main square) has been used for the centuries for royal galas, juegos de cañas (jousts), executions under the Inquisition, Military parades and bullfights. Bullfights and a running of the bulls, in fact, still take place. This is the classic place to go for a Sunday lunch out of town, for Madrileños. Chinchón is famous for its Liquors- Anis (made from aniseed,  a clear liquor taken as a digestif, similar to grappa)  and Limoncillo (similar to Limoncello, made with lemons, also taken as a digestif). You can visit the distillery, “Alcoholera” if you want to see the process (about 11 km outside of Chinchón). If you will be visiting Madrid, then Chinchón is a fun little detour for the afternoon or for a nice dinner and overnight stay.

WHEN TO GO- why not time it to coincide with local festivities? You have the Anis and Wine festivals at the end of March and the garlic festival in October. Religious events include Semana Santa (Holy Week) the fiestas of Chinchón´s patron saints Nuestra Señora de Gracia y San Roque is on 12-18 August (although it is very warm in summer!).  Winter is also a nice time to enjoy the atmospheric restaurants and meat heavy dishes.

WHERE TO STAY- the Parador Hotel, located in the converted 17th century Augustine convent. Dating back to 1626, the convent hosted many VIPs including the Archduke of Austria (during the war of Spanish succcession). It´s small and very pretty with a beautiful rose garden and excellent restaurant, serving historic recipes (such as the traditional “Cocido” whose recipe dates back to the 1700´s.

WHERE TO DINE- We love the Cuevas del Murcielago (Bat Caves) for its rustic dishes and old wine vats (called “Tinajas”) and the more elegant Casa Pregonero, right in the Plaza Mayor.

WHAT TO SEE- If you come to the village for the day only, then pop into the rose garden at the Parador. The Plaza Mayor will be your first visit and you can visit the Teatro Lope de Vega and the main church with its Assumption of the Virgin painted by Goya.

All around Italy´s wine regions, summer brings an exciting wave of music festivals, especially Jazz. Great news for music and wine lovers! Here are some of the upcoming events for this summer to help you start planning your wine and music orientated vacation in la Bella Italia-

Umbria Jazz Festival 2008- one of the largest jazz festivals in Europe, this takes place in beautiful Perugia. The world’s most famous jazz artists have performed here from Herbie Hancock to Miles Davis, Gilberto Gil to Milton Nascimiento. Artists performing this year include Brazilian Caetano Veloso, Mario Biondi and Duke Orchestra, Sonny Rollins, Alicia Keys, R.E.M., Cassandra WilsonRenato Sellani Trio, Chip Wilson, Pat Martino Quartet, Allan Harris Quintet “Tribute to NAT ‘KING’ COLE” , The Good Fellas Gangsters of Swing. Venus for the concerts in Perugia include- Bottega del Vino, Hotel Brufani, Arena Santa Giuliana, Teatro Morlacchi. There are also many free outdoor concerts in the medieval squares.

WHEN- July 11- 20, Perugia, Italy

MAP OF UMBRIA

WHERE TO STAY- The Brufani Palace is right in the historic center, a great base if you plan to check out a few concerts.

WINE TOURS IN UMBRIA- From Perugia you can visit the wine country of Montefalco and Orvieto to the south or the Montepulciano region in Tuscany, just to the west.

More Info on Umbria Jazz

Festival dei Due Mondi – The “Festival of Two Worlds”takes place in medieval Spoleto in the heart of Umbria and hosts an array of events from Music, Theater, Film and Dance. Musical highlights this year include the Opera Ballet Padmâvatî with its Indian theme; the Spanish actress Victoria Abril singing with flamenco guitarists with her “Ô lala” show; and the London Symphony Orchestra performing Don Juan, Stravinsky´s Firebird-Suite and a symphony by Brahms, right in the Duomo.

WHEN- June 27- July 13, Spoleto, Italy

WHERE TO STAY- Hotel San Luca, near the Ancient Roman Amphitheater

More info on Spoleto Festival

Monforte Jazz Festival- in Piedmont´s gorgeous Langhe wine country, home to Barolo and Barbaresco, you´ll find the darling little hamlet of Monforte d´Alba. Extremely picturesque and surrounded by vineyards, it is home to a small but excellent jazz fest which you can easily combine with wine tasting. This year´s performers include Mavis Staples, Ludovico Einaudi, Mario Biondi and Duke Ensemble, Wayne Shorter Quartet, Stefano Bollani & Enrico Rava.

WHEN- June 27- August 2

MAP OF PIEMONTE

WHERE TO STAY- The lovely intimate wine hotel Villa Beccaris is the best spot in town to enjoy this festival, and is a good base for your Piedmont wine tour

WINE TOURS IN PIEMONTE- This scenic wine region in Italy´s northwest is where you will find Barolo, Dolcetto, Barbera, Gavi and sparkling Moscato d´Asti. Apart from wine tasting, you can also enjoy gourmet activities like truffle hunting, cheese tasting and cooking classes.

MORE INFO ON MONFORTE JAZZ FESTIVAL

Blues & Jazz Festivals in Sicily- This summer there are a few different exciting music festivals in the gorgeous isle of Sicily:

MAP OF SICILY

Etna Jazz- Combine an amazing vacation with Wine Tasting in Mount Etna, maybe some sailing off the Aeolian Islands and a visit to beautiful Taormina with some jazz concerts (taking place in Mascalucia, near Catania and 45 minutes from Taormina). This year´s artists include: Nine Below Zero (British Blues Cult Band), Battye Lavette, Hot 4 Blues, and Willie Deville & The Mink DeVille Band.

WHEN- July 11-13, Mascalucia, Sicily, Italy

MORE INFO ON ETNA JAZZ FEST

Blues and Soul- The calendar is still not live, so keep checking into their website. Last year they hosted many great bands including Earth, Wind and Fire. Here is their promo video for the 2008 edition (in Italian).

Catania Jazz- This festival takes place near Etna in the eastern city of Catania from July 24-26 and features Ute Lemper and Stefano Bollani.

WINE TOURS IN SICILY- On the Eastern side of the island you have the fantastic wineries of Mount Etna in the north and in Baroque south east you have some excellent cellars near Noto, Syracuse and in the Cerasuolo di Vittoria appellation. In the west you have the historic cellars of Marsala like Donnafugata (who also hold music concerts throughout the year) and a host of other small wine regions and top cellars like Planeta and Tasca d´Almerita.

Opera in Verona- one of Northern Italy´s loveliest cities, Verona is home to a stunning Roman “Arena” which holds an all- summer long spectacular opera season including such classics as Aida, Tosca, Carmen, Nabucco and Rigoletto. The operas are outdoor, right in the Arena, and the atmosphere is just magical.

WHERE TO STAY- we love the Gabbia d´Oro if you want to be right in the historic center of Verona or Villa Quar if you want a pampering luxury hotel in the countryside.

MAP OF VENETO REGION

MORE INFO ON OPERA SEASON AT VERONA´S ARENA

WHEN- June 20- August 31, Verona, Italy

WINE TOURS IN VALPOLICELLA- Just north of Verona, you find the beautiful wine region of Valpolicella, home to Amarone and Recioto. Lake Garda is just a hop, skip and a jump and you can dine in gourmet restaurants right on the lake, what a treat!

Iseo Jazz - Taking place on Lake Iseo, right in the heart of Franciacorta Wine Country, this is a small and newish festival and is getting stronger every year. This year´s concerts include Gianluca Renzi Sestetto; Roberto Gatto special project featuring Kurt Rosenwinkel, Mark Turner, Dave Binney and Paolino Dalla Porta; Paolo Damiani – Enrico Intra “Young Talents” Ensemble; Franco D’Andrea jazz pianist; Stefano Bollani Trio; and Luigi Grasso Quintetto performing the music of Coleman Hawkins.

WHEN- July 13-21, Lake Iseo, Italy

WHERE TO STAY- the superb L´Albereta is “the” place to stay, a Relais & Chateaux set in a vineyard with a 2 Michelin starred restaurant (Gualtiero Marchesi) and a delicious spa.

WINE TOURS IN FRANCIACORTA- this tiny region in Lombardy is home to Italy´s best bubbly and there are dozens of fabulous cellars to visit, from slick and chic Ca´del Bosco to the family run cellar of Mosnel.

And if you know of any other interesting music festivals taking place in Italy this summer, be sure to tell us!

Market Meccas for Foodies in Barcelona

Barcelona, along with San Sebastian and Madrid, is a gourmet hotspot for food and wine loving travelers with its array of Michelin starred restaurants, cozy wine bars, specialty olive oil and chocolate shops and some of the best food markets in Spain (there are over 40 markets in Barcelona, all run by the local municipality). Two picture perfect gourmet markets for visitors to check out right downtown are La Boqueria and Santa Caterina, both built in the 1800´s.

Mercat de La Boqueria

The Boqueria is definitely the most photogenic and spectacular covered market in Spain, if not Europe.  Stall after tantalizing stall offer shoppers a never ending selection of goodies from: exotic fruits from around the world, particularly Asia and South America; prepared half coconuts with spoons ” to go”, candies and nuts in every color; countless sea creatures and fish from the Mediterranean, Atlantic and further afield; cured Spanish hams (Iberico, Bellota, etc) and artisan charcuterie; Foie from Girona; dozens of wild mushrooms, ceps, boletus and trufles from Spain, France, Italy; high end Spanish olive oils from Extremadura, Catalunya, Andalusia and Rioja; and butchers selling literally EVERY part of the pig, sheep, rabbit and cow from pigs feet to sheep´s balls to… you get the picture. Apart from the food stalls, there are wine shops and bookshops specializing in gastronomy books within the market.  While visiting the Boqueria, it´s fun to have a Catalan breakfast or brunch and our 2 favorite bars are the mythical Pinotxo and El Quim de la Boqueria. Start with a glass of Cava from the nearby wine region of Penedès, then enjoy tapas such as Garbanzos with pinenuts and “Morcilla” black pudding, and salt cod marinated in olive oil on country bread.

Open Mondays to Saturdays 8AM to 8:30PM. Location- La Rambla, 89 in Barcelona

More Info on La Boqueria in Barcelona

Mercat de Santa Caterina

The Santa Caterina market was built in 1848 in the “Ciutat Vella” (old town) on top of the remains of a convent, which is the origin of the name (Saint Catherine).  Recently renovated (by husband-wife architect team Enric Miralles and Benedetta Tagliabue) and now included even in the Barcelona Tourist Office’s gourmet walking tours, this market is a treat. Pick up goodies such as succulent figs; small production cheese from a farmer in the Pyrenees; delicate hake cheeks; Arbequina olive oil; spicy piquillo peppers; Bottarga (tuna roe); paper thinly sliced Guijuelo ham… and if you want to stay for a market lunch, check out the beautiful vaulted Restaurant Cuines de Santa Caterina with its Asian infused Catalan cuisine.

More Info

We have just returned from a very interesting research trip in Spain’s beautiful Garrotxa national park, a delightful area in Catalunya characterized by its extinct volcanoes, medieval villages, lush scenery and passionate local chefs. We visited a variety of local producers and restaurants and here are some of the highlights of our trip-

Mas Corominas-

This artisan charcuterie producer is located in a picturesque valley near Begudà. A variety of organic cured meats are produced with the purebred Duroc pig including the famed Fuet, chorizo, white butifarra, salcichón and jamón. Our charming hosts put on a feast of these local delicacies, all served with “Porrones” of local Empordà wines, pan con tomaca (country bread rubbed with fresh tomatoes, olive oil and sea salt). The owners receive visitors at their small country house in the forest and also have a permanent stall in the main market square in the town of Olot.

Mas Corominas Tel +34 972 26 65 24

Keks Beer-

We met so many interesting characters in the Garrotxa including Pep Nogué i Puigvert, a young chef who has also added micro beer production to his resume (CV). Pep´s beer is made with buckwheat (called “Fajols”) grown on the fertile volcanic soils of this region and 2008 was the first “vintage”. The initial production of 4000 bottles sold out immediately and the production for next year is set for 9000. The beer has an unusual almost fruity flavor and is delicious, 3.5% alc. The only place you are likely to taste it is in the Garrotxa, and we highly recommend a visit to this lovely green area of Spain.

Pep´s web and email

Visiting La Garrotxa and Osona province-

Best towns to visit-Medieval village of Besalú with its Jewish heritage; Olot for its old town and markets (the outskirts are industrial); the spec of a medieval fortified hamlet of Santa Pau on the map for mountain hikers and gourmets; stunning Castellfollit for its magnificent volcanic basaltic cliff crowned with the historic village; Vic for its lovely old quarter and wonderful markets,  also some fabulous little restaurants.

Best restaurants- Ca l´U in Vic, a beautiful 18th century mansion filled with an array of charming dining rooms and excellent local country cuisine (rich in ceps and wild mushrooms) served by gracious old time waiters; the excellent Michelin starred Can Jubany in Calldetenes with a good value tasting menu; Cal Sastre in Santa Pau for rustic charm and delicious white beans and butifarra (!!), known for its “Cuina Volcanica”; and the superb Les Cols (ultra stylish gourmet hotspot set in a historic masia) in Olot.

Best accommodation- Sant Ferriol 4* Hotel, Spa and gourmet restaurant with 12 rooms in a historic masia (villa) near Besalú; Mas Salvanera, a charming B&B set in a 17th century masia Catalana; and outside Vic you have the tranquil and relaxed 4* Parador of Vic-Sau, surrounded by nature and a picturesque reservoir (the terrace bar overlooking the water is great to enjoy your aperitif before dinner and sunset).