Cellar Tours Blog

Early this summer we did an extensive road trip to check out wineries, restaurants and hotels in Spain’s northwestern region of Galicia, nestled just above Portugal on the Atlantic. Galicia is really unique in Spain and about as “un-Spanish” as you could imagine. The climate resembles Ireland or Scotland, the bagpipes are the main instrument used in the regional music and Celtic dolmens can be found here! The atmosphere is misty and mystical, just wonderful. We highly encourage you to visit this special and fairly undiscovered Spanish region.

Here are some of our notes from the trip, and some of our new suppliers…

We began our tour in gorgeous Santiago de Compostela (have always loved this charming medieval city with its ancient cathedral that attracts millions of pilgrims each year following the Saint James Way (called the Camino de Santiago). We revisited the striking Parador, located in a one of the oldest hotels in the world and where King Ferdinand and Queen Isabel stayed in the 15th century (!!), to do a follow up inspection. The Hostal dos Reis Catolicos has been used as a Royal hospital (for pilgrims) and an inn since the late 1400’s and today is a 5 star hotel. There is a new manager and a fresh breath of new life flowing through this historic hotel and despite the fact that the rooms are a bit dated, there is simply no better place to stay in Santiago de Compostela.

We received the grand tour of the property and were entertained by legends and anecdotes. One of the main event halls, for example, is where the old maternity ward of the ancient hospital was; one of the bedrooms was used for plague victims; one staircase is called suicide stairwell…this place is just oozing with atmosphere and history. It is THE place to stay while in Santiago.  On the other hand, we didn’t like the location or decor at the other five star hotel in Santiago, AC Palacio del Carmen, and it lacked character. Another hotel we did love love love, however, was the Parador Monasterio de Santo Estevo, read a review here on our Ten Best Wine Hotels in Spain post. It can be used as a base, as we did, for Ribeira Sacra, the most stunning and pristine wine region in Galicia.

STAR WINERIES: we visited many estates in Rias Baixas, Ribeira Sacra and Ribeiro and tasted an array of Albariño, Loureira, Godello, and Treixadura based zippy white wines and a few Mencia based reds (Mencia is the grape used in neighboring Bierzo, one of Spain’s most stylish red wine regions). The climate in Galicia´s wine country is starkly different to other regions in Spain. Here in Galicia, you are right on the Atlantic. The cool and wet misty climate directly affects the viticulture and most of the vines are on pergolas to avoid the moist earth. Wineries range in size, from large estates like the prestigious Martin Codax to ultra tiny cellars like the high-end Santiago Ruiz winery.

Here is a pick of some of our favorite estates, wines and personalities:

PAZO DE SEÑORÁNS, RIAS BAIXAS-

This elegant wine estate known for their Albariños is GORGEOUS. While the winery itself is small, new and nothing interesting, the estate itself is stunning. Lush trellised vines pan out in all directions, punctuated by manicured flowerbeds flowing over with pink, purple and blue “Hortensias” (hydrangeas), a beautiful flower so commonly seen around Galicia. The property features a 17th century Pazo (manor house) and a spectacular Hórreo (a traditional granary you find in Green Spain) as well as a historic chapel (that up until this year has still been functioning and many couples have come to be married here at the winery). The owner, Señora Marisol Bueno is one of the most famous personalities in the Rias Baixas appellation and has long been a pioneering force for quality in the region. Their Selección de Añada (specially selected vintage wine), only made in superb years made with 100% old vine Albariño and uniquely aged on its lees for over 2 years before release, is the best wine we tasted on our research trip and one of the best great white wines of Spain at the moment. Marisol´s friendly and knowledgeable daughter gave us the tour, and this estate is absolutely equipped to welcome our VIP clients

More info on Pazo de Señoráns

AGRO DE BAZÁN, RIAS BAIXAS-

This dynamic and lovely winery (founded in the 80´s) are well known for their Granbazán Albariño and their rich dry red wines made in the sister estate Mas de Bazán in the Utiel-Requena appellation in the southeast of Spain. Located in Vilanova de Arousa, the area changes evrey few minutes from industrial parks to picture perfect forest, from pockets of both lovely and built up coastline. Once you arrive to the estate, however, you forget all about its surroundings. The vineyards are beautiful and the traditional manor style house seems somehow funkier with the motorbike parked right out front. Agro de Bazán boasts a young, international and enthusiastic team making excellent Albariño wines that respect tradition.  Fabulous place and fabulous people, completely professional and ready to welcome you to their estate.

More info on Agro de Bazan

PALACIO DE FEFIŇANES, RIAS BAIXAS-

We didn´t actually have a good visit here as the woman who was supposed to receive us did not show up for our appointment, a bad start ! But we were soon won over by the wine itself and the beauty of their very own wine castle and tiny, historic cellar. It is located in the prettiest part of the historic town of Cambados (also referred to as the Albariño capital, and a great place to buy wine as there are various wine shops with an extensive selection of local wines you won´t be able to find at home). The square is named after the palace and stand gracefully across the street from the attractive stone church. Palacio de Fefiñanes is the oldest winery (callled “Adega” in the Galician language) in the Rias Baixas appellation, founded in 1904. The estate features a 17th century palace cum castle and a very small vineyard. They make one wine only, with its own grapes as well as other grapes bought in from small local viticultors. As the winery flaked on us for our inspection visit, we won´t be including them in our tours but we do believe it is worth a visit If you find yourself in the area, so if you will be near Cambados, just have your hotel call ahead of time to see if anyone will be able to receive you.

More info on Palacio de Fefiñanes

PAZO CASANOVA, RIBEIRO-

What a gem!!!!!!!!!!!! Loved the estate (actually there are two estates, both with ancient pazo houses and lush vineyards). We stomped in the vines with the charismatic owner, Carlos de la Peña. Read a full review of the estate here in our autumn newsletter as we selected their Casanova wine as our recommended wine of the season.

More info on Pazo Casanova

ADEGA ALGUEIRA, RIBEIRA SACRA

Another darling little spec of a winery with a passionate and charming owner (Fernando González) is Adega Algueira, located in an ancient stone house near the majestic terraced wine valley of the Ribeira Sacra (translated as sacred hillside). While over 15 grape varietals are allowed in the appellation, the main red grape used is Mencia (and important to note that this region, along with Valdeorras, is where Galicia´s red wines are made).  Apart from wine grape production, Ribeira Sacra is also a natural park and home to much wildlife such as Peregrine Falcons, Golden Eagles, wild boar and badgers. So, how surprised were we to find out that this tiny winery, in a practically unknown hidden corner of Galicia, got 95 Parker points this year for their aged mencia?!! We tasted Fernando´s wines at lunch on his rustic terrace overlooking the grounds, sublime! Again- amazing people, amazing wines, true and bonified wine discovery gem. Fernando and his wife have lovely ideas for wine harvest experiences on the dizzyingly steep and beautiful vineyard terraces overlooking the Rio Miño and Rio Sil, and we will be creating some excellent trips here.

More info on Adega Algueira

BEST OF WHAT WE SAW:  the Parador Santo Estevo;  Santiago de Compostela, with its romantic ambiance in the quaint old town at night and many excellent restaurants like the Michelin starred Toñi Vicente and the whimsical Casa Marcelo; the above mentioned wines and estates; the Northeastern Galician coast (unspoiled and dramatic).

WHAT TO AVOID: Virtually the entire coast south of Santiago de Compostela, barring some lovely coves and the picturesque town of Baiona, is given over to mass development and sloppy building. The cities of Pontevedra and Ourense were not nice, you can definitely skip them. Southern Galicia in general is quite densely populated. The regions of Ribeiro (especially Pazo Casanova!!) and Rias Baixas are definitely worth touring, but don’t expect pristine wine country as there is a bit of industry and half built houses (the building boom has gone bust). Ribeira Sacra on the other hand is in a protected park and is ABSOLUTELY breathtaking, resembling Portugal´s Douro Valley.

Spain is home to some of the most fabulous wine regions in Europe (including La Rioja, Ribera del Duero, Penedès, Priorat, Sherry, Toro, Navarra, Somontano, Rias Baixas, Ribera Sacra, Rueda and many other appellations)  and more and more the concept of a wine hotel (either a working winery with accommodation or  a hotel set amid the vineyards) is taking off.  A list of some of the best wine hotels in Spain to help you plan your next wine tasting vacation in Spain-

Hacienda Zorita, Salamanca

The Hacienda Zorita is a romantic and relaxing estate (part of the Haciendas de España wine hotel chain, leaders in wine tourism in Spain) to enjoy a weekend break near the beautiful city of Salamanca. Read a full review of the hotel here. More info on hotel here.

More info on Salamanca

Hacienda Abascal – Ribera del Duero

Also belonging to Haciendas de España, the Abascal estate is located right on the “Golden Mile” in Ribera del Duero, home to such famed wine estates as Vega Sicilia, Arzuaga and Viña Mayor. The stunning Abadia Retuerta estate is around the corner, too, so this is a great based to explore some wineries for a few days. the Abascal has stylish rooms, a new and exciting restaurant called The Durius Café, run by mythical Spanish chef Sergi Arola. The views from nearly every point in this hotel are of vineyards and in autumn, it is simply gorgeous with the flaming red and orange leaves blanketing the plains. More info on the hotel here.

Hacienda Unamuno, Arribes del Duero

The smallest of the Haciendas de España group, and most intimate located in the dramatic Arribes del Duero wine country near the Portuguese border. This area is a protected nature reserve and pristine, and for a romantic and revitalizing weekend or even week long stay, this could be a fantastic base to explore the nearby wine country (Toro and Ribera del Duero are not far, and you can easily do day trips into Portugal as well as the historic city of Zamora). The “hotelito” is located inside a beautiful historic farmhouse, and is named after the philosopher Miguel de Unamuno. The vibe is very artsy and plenty of stressed out professionals from big cities come here to relax. Apart from winetasting onsite you can also do cheese tastings and olive oil tastings from their collection of properties. The hotel can arrange romantic picnics and private dinners for two as well. More info on the Haciendas de España website.

Can Bonastre in Penedès, close to Barcelona

This luxurious wine resort has extensive manicured grounds, views of the Montserrat mountains, an in-house beautiful winery, fashionable bedrooms, and a gourmet hotspot restaurant (called Tribia, this is the best restaurant in the region at present and you can expect goodies like exquisite Arbequina olive oil, and Rosé Cava from the Can Bonastre estate). What more could you ask for? Oh, and they have helipads for VIPs as well! The perfect base to use while exploring the Penedès wine country taking in visits to big names like Torres and Codorniu and boutique cellars like Albet i Noia and Jean Leon. Highly highly recommended hotel!  More info on Can Bonastre here.

More info on Penedès wine region

More info on wineries in the Penedès

Profile of Barcelona

Marqués de Riscal, El Ciego, La Rioja

The “ultimate” luxury wine hotel in Spain, here is our newsletter review of this stunning property designed by Frank Gehry (who also designed the Guggenheim museum in Bilbao, among numerous other high profile projects around the world).

More info on La Rioja wine region

City profile of Laguardia, located about 5 minutes from the hotel

Parador Monasterio de Santo Estevo, close to Ribera Sacra, Galicia

This newly inaugurated Parador hotel is FABULOUS and we used it as a base to discover the wine country of Ribera Sacra, Galicia´s most beautiful and undiscovered wine region.  The hotel is located in a historic Benedictine monastery that has been revamped with elegant and innovative decoration and the views from our room over the lush grounds are stunning. More info on hotel here.

Info on Santiago de Compostela, Galicia´s most beautiful town

Info on Rias Baixas, the most prominent Galician wine region

Pago de Cirsus, Navarra

Navarra is one of the least explored wine regions in Spain and yet one of the most interesting. You have stunning medieval towns like Olite with its spectacular castle, and miles upon miles of unspoiled wine country. The exclusive Pago de Cirsus hotel is for lovers of the “buena vida”. There is a 16^th century fortress, a high-end winery and an excellent restaurant (with a gastronomic focus on the best products of Navarra, especially vegetables). Expect beautiful grounds, luxurious rooms and a lovely garden. More info here.

Palacio de Garvey, Jerez (Sherry Country)

Jerez is unique in Spain in that the bodegas (wineries) are located right in the historic center, whereas the vineyards are spread out throughout various provinces. So you can go wine tasting right downtown, by foot! We love the Palacio Garvey hotel as it is in a prime, central location and it merges its palatial architecture with contemporary and ultra stylish decor. The restaurant is EXCELLENT with good wine service. Apart from Sherry wines you can also taste an array of superb red wines from beautiful Ronda, also in Andalusia. The Palacio Garvey has many special touches from complimentary wine upon arrival, clawfoot romantic bathtubs, and four poster beds with sublime sheets. Highly recommended if you are visiting Jerez.

Info on Jerez

Info on Sherry

List of wine producers to visit

Pago del Vicario, La Mancha

In the vast plains of La Mancha, land of Don Quixote, a vinous Renaissance is taking place with countless new winery projects (many whose investments are in the multi-millions of euros) and things are-a- shaking regards to wine tourism. One of the most interesting winery cum hotels is Paco del Vicario, whose rosé is one of the most exciting rosés in Spain. The hotel is decorated extremely tastefully with rich colors (burgundy, cream, eggplant, beige, gold, so forth) and modern flourishes (there are a few zebra stripes here). You can visit the winery of course while staying here, dine in the excellent restaurant and visit other wineries in the area. The beautiful town of Almagro, known for its wonderful classical theatre festival, is only 30 km from here and an easy half day excursion.

More info on Pago Vicario wine hotel

Palacio Canedo, Prada a tope Winery, Bierzo

Bierzo is the new “it” region in Spain, extremely exciting for wine lovers. It is also an unspoiled and very picturesque region located southeast of Galicia. The Prada a Tope winery is one of the oldest and most famous and they have an entire working farm making everything from wines to candied chestnuts to marinated peppers and much more. Whereas the other hotels in this list are quite luxurious and contemporary, the Palacio Canedo (the name of this winery´s rustic inn) is romantically rustic. The ideal time to come would be autumn, after harvest when the vineyards are at their most beautiful and when it is cold enough to light the onsite fireplaces.

More info on Palacio Canedo

More info on the Bierzo wine region

More info on Leon, a nearby Spanish city on the Saint James pilgrimage route

General information on Spanish Wine Regions

Coming next year- Abadia Retuerta Luxury Wine Hotel in Ribera del Duero, this will be fantastic! More info here.

Next year, there are an array of fantastic wine fairs and events in Italy, which could be a fun addition to your vacation. Here is a list of some of the best events as well as a mini travel guide by city:

VINITALY in Verona, April 2-6, 2009

The definitive Italian wine fair. Next year will be the 43rd anniversary of this huge International wine event and they are expecting a massive increase in attendance of both exhibitors (last year they had 150, 000 operators) and visitors. If you want to taste the creme de la creme wines from all over Italy and learn about regions you mightn´t have even ever heard of, this is THE wine event to attend.

More info on VinItaly

Where to stay: In Verona “centro storico”, our favorite hotel is the romantic 5* Gabbia d´Oro. a sumptuous countryside Relais & Chateaux hotel is the luxury 5* Villa Quar. Another idea is to sleep in Franciacorta wine country at the superb 5* L´Albereta. Apart from a beautiful hotel (also a Relais & Chateaux) set amid the vines,  Albereta has a fabulous spa, and the 2 Michelin starred Gualtiero Marchesi restaurant and can be used as a base for wine touring in both Franciacorta as well as Valpolicella, and you can come into Verona for a day to VinItaly.

What to do: If staying in Verona, don´t miss the Ancient Roman arena, and the historic center´s many charming squares and monuments. For private wine tours of Amarone producing estates, we offer Mercedes chauffeured tours.  Alternatively you can contact the Valpolicella Consorzio if you have your own car and want to visit on your own, they will tell you which estates open to the general public. Near Verona, Lake Garda and the wine region of Franciacorta are well worth a visit. And of course Venice is not far….

Vitigno Italia in Naples, May 2009

This wine fair in fascinating Naples is in its fifth year, and aims to promote wines of the Mediterranean as well as indigenous Italian grape varietals. Feudi di San Gregorio, one of the leading estates in Campania will lead one of the main conferences.

More info on Vitigno Italia

Where to stay: In Naples itself, the Grand Hotel Vesuvio has unbeatable views over the Castel dell´Ovo and Bay of Naples. It´s very elegant and classy. For something charming, boutique and a bit trendier the Micalo is great. You could also stay in Capri or the Amalfi Coast and come in to Naples to attend the wine fair.

What to do: In Naples you will taste the best pizza of your life and great spots include Brandi for a sit down and elegant pizza (where the Margherita pizza was invented) , as well as informal Da Michele which has been making pizza since 1870! Have spaghetti and clams at La Bersagliera near the Castle, and taste wines at the plentiful winebars in the fabulous Chiaia quarter. And under no circumstance should you miss the much underrated and stunning archaeological museum of Naples (with its Pompeii Erotica room) . Info on wine tourism in Campania.

Sicilia En Primeur- Spring 2009

This is THE premier annual wine event in Sicily. 2008´s event hosted top Sicilian wineries such as Abbazia Santa Anastasia, Benanti,  Cos, Cottanera, Cusumano, Donnafugata, Fazio, Feudo Arancio, Feudo Maccari, Firriato, Planeta, Tenute Rapitalà, Tasca D’Almerita and Valle dell’Acate. The venues are a range of palaces and monasteries. Highly recommended.

More info on Sicilia En Primeur

VIP Wine Tours in Sicily

Where to stay: In Palermo, we love Villa Igiea for its romance and luxury.  The Wagner is very comfortable and more central if you want to be right in the thick of it. there are various events and venues, so check the program before deciding on where to stay.

What to do: Depending on how long you come for, you could spend five days seeing the Western part of the island (visit medieval Erice and the Greek temple of Segesta; have lunch at the Charleston in the fishing village of Mondello; visit the wineries of Marsala; spend a day in wonderful Cefalù, obviously spend at least a day in Palermo, taking in the Cathedral and Vucciria market. If you had more time to see the Eastern part of Sicily, then don´t miss Taormina, Ragusa (and other Baroque jewels of Modica and Noto) and Siracusa (Syracuse). The Aeolian islands (Stromboli, Salina, etc) are also well worth a visit!

Oscar del Vino in Rome, June 2009

Yes, the “Oscars” for wine! Organized by the Associazione Italiana Sommelier Roma, it´s a great wine event and a fun addition to your trip to Rome if you will visiting in June.

More info on The Wine Oscars in Rome

Where to stay: We love Ferragamo´s Portrait Suites! For ultra luxury, the De Russie is our favorite. The Inn at Spanish Steps is also great for those looking for location on more of a budget.

What to do: For first time visitors to Rome, the “must do” visits include the Vatican, Colosseum, Ancient Roman Forum, Capitoline Museums and Trastevere. For 2nd time visitors with more time, what we love about Rome are its squares, fountains and gardens. Info on Rome here. You can also indulge in gourmet dining (3 Michelin starred La Pergola, Terraza del Eden, Baby at Aldrovandi, and many more), and wine tasting tours.

Photos of Rome

Mi Wine, Milan June 2009

Milan´s annual wine fair and industry “must” for Italian wineries. Unique opportunity to try wines from all over Italy including Lombardy such as Valtellina.

More info on Mi Wine

Where to stay: For ultra luxury, the Bulgari is an iconic fashion hotel. Straf is cool for minimalist zen and the Townhouse chain has a range of stylish hotels including the spectacular new Townhouse Galleria.

What to do: In Milan itself, don´t miss a visit to the Duomo! Very impressive. See the Cenacolo Vinciano (Leonardo’s Last supper) at the Santa Maria delle Grazie convent, go shopping in the gorgeous Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II (next to the Duomo) and visit the Castello Sforzesco and Pinacoteca di Brera art museum. For excursions out of town, you can go wine tasting to Piacenza or Franciacorta. Relax at Lake Como and visit the nearby art cities of Bergamo, Brescia and Pavia.

Alla Corte del Vino at the Fattoria Le Corti di San Casciano in Val di Pesa, Tuscany May 22-24 2009

This will be the 20th anniversary of this superb event concentrated on the wines of Tuscany. Highlights will include a vertical tasting of Ornellaia from 1988-2005,  a Champagne vs Spumanti tasting, and Syrah from around the World tasting

More info on Alla Corte del Vino and on the Pandolfini wine auction for children´s charity.

Where to stay: In Chianti we love 5* Castello del Nero for ultra luxury, it´s a converted castle in a vineyard, veeeeeeeeeery nice. In Florence our favorite hotel is 5* Relais Santa Croce for a glamorous and contemporary central hotel. Also excellent in Florence are 4* JK Place and 5* Lungarno (owned by Ferragamo).

What to do: When in wine country, go on a wine tour! Many cellars open to the general public if you make a previous appointment, here is the local Chianti Classico Conzorio link. For VIP wine tours, we organize Mercedes tours of Montalcino, Maremma, Montepulciano, San Gimignano and of course Chianti. Here is a sample luxurious Wine Connoisseurs Tour of Tuscany.

Vino Vip Cortina, August 2009

In the glam ski resort of Cortina d´Ampezzo, this small but prestigious wine event takes place for 2 days every August. Big names show their wines here from Tuscan giants Antinori, Banfi and Biondi Santi to Umbrian cellars like Falesco and Lungarotti to Veneto wineries like Masi and Trento gems like San Leonardo.

More info on Vino Vip Cortina

Where to stay: The Hotel & Spa Rosa Alpina is a Restaurant ‘Relais Gourmand’ and hotel in the nearby hamlet of  San Cassiano

What to do: This is the Dolomites, Italy´s most beautiful mountain range and paradise for nature lovers. There are some nice towns as well to visit, such as Belluno and hamlets like Pieve di Cadore (where Tiziano was born) You can take a boat ride on Lake Misurina and the cable car “Freccia nel Cielo” from Cortina, that travels to a height of over 10, 000 feet above sea level. For wine tasting, travel south towards Venice and take in some of the Prosecco wineries.

Salone del Vino in Turin, October 24-27, 2009

This is one of the biggest wine fairs in the north, taking place in wonderful Turin, one of Italy´s best kept secrets.

More info on Salone del Vino in Turin

Where to stay: In Piedmont´s Langhe wine region, our favorite hotels are the Villa and Relais San Maurizio (which also has a wine spa and Michelin starred restaurant).

What to do: Turin is home to some FABULOUS chocolate makers, the Egyptian museum and of course on the doorstep of Piedmont´s wine country. Piedmont is a food and wine lover´s PARADISE!. This is the home of Barolo, Barbaresco, some of Italy´s best cheeses, most spectacular restaurants (like Combal. Zero near Turin and Ciau del Tornavento) and the Slow Food movement, no less.

Merano Wine Festival, November 2009

This event takes place near Bolzano in Italy´s far north, in the heart of Trentino Alto Adige. It is one of the most exciting and best organized wine fairs in Italy.

More info on the Merano Wine Festival

Where to stay: Hotel Villa Tivoli in Merano is elegant with stylish rooms.

What to do: The Dolomites are to your east for taking in some nature and fresh air. For wine tasting, you can head south towards Trento and visit some of the wine estates there, info here. Further south you have Valpolicella and Lake Garda, why not combine the Merano wine festival with a culinary and wine weekend?

Fiera del Bue Grasso, December

While in Piedmont wine country, this event is actually a quirky food festival dedicated to the Cow, with a gastronomic celebration of the local Piemontese specialty “Bollito” at the excellent Moderno restaurant in Carrù.  More info (in Italian).

Sicily is a fascinating place to visit and actually merits MANY visits as there is simply so much to see and do. For a small taste of ideas for touring in Sicily- ski volcanic Mount Etna; see a lava “show” on Stromboli in the Aeolian islands; taste wine all over the island from Marsala to Vittoria to Etna itself; go snorkeling in Sicily´s myriad divers´ paradises (Lampedusa, Pantelleria, Aeolian islands, Egadi islands, Tindari and Riserva dello Zingaro, and so many more spots), go hiking in the Nebrodi mountains;visit saltworks near Trapani and fascinating tuna fisheries, see Ancient Greek ruins in Segesta, Selinunte, Agrigento, and Syracuse; visit Sicily´s Baroque gems (Ragusa, as below, Modica, Noto, Scicli); see Ancient Roman mosaics at Piazza Armerina; go cycling on the cycle paths from Siracusa to Ragusa, crossing the Iblei mountains; go “Canyoning” near Mount Etna; go wind surfing in colorful Mondello; visit fascinating cities like Palermo and Catania; and quaint towns such as Cefalù, Sciacca and Randazzo. But if for whatever reason you could only spend a short while in Sicily, then don´t miss these beautiful Sicilian towns, in the west, southeast and northeastern corners of the island:

ERICE

Erice, called the “city in the clouds” is extremely picturesque. Located in Western Sicily between Trapani and the beautiful Zingaro marine reserve, Erice is a  splendid little hamlet perched atop Monte San Giuliano with its lush pine forest. It features a medieval cluster of narrow laneways intertwining with charming squares, ancient stone houses and some stunning monuments. Imagine cobblestoned streets, castles, dramatic views over the sea, and wildflowers blossoming in the valley below. Erice has it all for such a small town, and is in easy reach of Palermo if you wanted to do a day trip.

WHAT TO SEE AND DO- Visit the 12th century Venus castle (a Norman castle built on the ruins of an Ancient temple dedicated to Venus, the goddess of love.) The views from the castle´s towers are incredible and its history is fascinating (over the centuries it´s been used as a dungeon, watchtower and governor´s mansion). The Chiesa Matrice, located near the Porta di Trapani entrance to the hamlet,  is a church dating back to the 14th century (although repaired extensively in the 18th century), and is worth a look. The Cyclopean walls (part of the city´s original ancient wall from the time of the Phoenicians) are partially intact and they extend over 2000 feet. The “Porta Spada”, gateway, still stands. Its name means “Sword gateway” and refers to a massacre that took place here during the rebellion of the 13th century against Angevin rule (called the “Sicilian Vespers“. From the Giardino del Balio gardens around the Venus castle, you have FABULOUS  views of the sea and the Egadi islands in the distance. A few miles from Erice, another point of interest is the Tonnara di Bonagia, with the Museo dellla Tonnara. This is a 17th century tuna fishery that you can visit (part of it is a historic hotel now, in what was their own self contained village.)

WINE TASTING ERICE- While in the area you must try the superb wines from the Fazio and Firriato estates. You can also visit some of the wineries in nearby Marsala, some open to the general public.  For private VIP tours, we offer Mercedes chauffeured wine tours in this area of Western Sicily.

WHERE TO STAY- while not in Erice itself, about an hour and a half´s drive you have the fabulous ultra luxury 5* Kempinksi spa resort, our favorite hotel in Western Sicily. It can be used as a base for visiting Erice as well as Marsala, the salt works of Trapani, Greek Segesta and wine tasting to top estates like Planeta. For something closer and not as extravagant, you could stay at the 17th century inn 3* Baglio Santa Croce.

WHERE TO EAT- Monte San Giuliano is a must, famed for its elegantly presented local cuisine and for its country chic atmosphere. A sublime and “must visit” bakery and patisserie is the Pasticceria Maria Grammatico.

RAGUSA

Ragusa is one of the Baroque jewels of the southeastern Sicily, located in the Unesco protected Valley of Noto (with other Baroque towns such as chocolate making Modica, Scicli, Noto and ceramic making Caltagirone).  The city is divided into two sections, the “new” Baroque Ragusa and quieter, wonderful Ibla. Much of this ancient town was destroyed in the famous 1693 earthquake which devastated this corner of the island, and was rebuilt in the Baroque period. We love Ragusa for its atmospheric location, decadent Baroque flourishes and for its stellar restaurants like the Michelin starred Il Duomo, a “must” while in Sicily (see below).

WHAT TO SEE AND DO- In Ragusa, the 18th century cathedral of St John the Baptist is definitely worth a visit. the Santa Maria delle Scale is a must, standing at the top of 340 steps (the name in fact means Saint Mary of the Steps) and connecting Ragusa to Ibla.  For lovers of the antiquities, there is a good archaeological museum in Ragusa. Then across in Ibla, the Duomo is very impressive. Set in peaceful Piazza Duomo, this church has a series of beautiful stained glass windows, and a collection of valuable paintings. We love the Giardino Ibleo, 19th century gardens. Pick up a bottle of the local Cerasuolo di Vittoria wine, some Ragusano cheese and freshly baked bread and have a romantic picnic here. Drive out of the town and admire it from many angles, don´t forget the camera as there are some spectacular panoramic views! Out of town, a nice visit is to the Donnafugata Castle, and the Sampieri beach.

WINE TASTING RAGUSA- there are some excellent wineries within the nearby Cerasuolo di Vittoria appellation (famous for rich red wines made with a blend of Nero d´Avola, Frappato and Pignatello grapes) such as Cos and Occhipinti, so keep your eyes out for those wines on local menus (and if you´d like to see the actual estates, you can contact us for private tours). Other wines from the southeast of Sicily beyond Ragusa´s provincial limits include the excellent Moscatos from Siracusa (Syracuse) as well as the Moscatos from Noto.

WHERE TO STAY- For ultra luxury and romance stay at Eremo della Giubiliana in a restored monastery outside of Ragusa (with modern touches like  a heli pad!).  For something quaint, also romantic and on a smaller scale, try Locanda Don Serafino, famous for its Michelin starred restaurant.

WHERE TO EAT- The best restaurant in Ragusa and possibly all of Sicily is the Michelin starred Il Duomo, where chef Ciccio Sultano offers culinary epiphanies. Don Serafino as mentioned above is also excellent. Another recommendation is the beautiful Ristorante  Baglio la Pergola, set in an elegant ancient “Baglio” (old farmstead/ villa).

TAORMINA

Taormina is located in an almost ridiculously picture perfect setting- atop a clifftop overlooking the sea, in the shadow of snow capped Mount Etna.  While dating back to Ancient Greek times (it was one of Sicily´s most important Greek settlements), most of the beautiful architecture, villas and gardens we can admire now date back to when Taormina was a playground for aristocrats doing the “Grand Tour“. It is simply the most captivating town in the island in our opinion, and in excellent condition as it remains on the wealthy stomping grounds for Europe´s jetsetters. Expect lush hillsides, outrageous villas, ancient ruins and many points of interests for history buffs, and some outstanding restaurants here, as well as some of the best hotels in Sicily.

WINE TASTING TAORMINA- the closest wine country is volcanic Mount Etna, where some of the most exciting wines in Italy are being produced. Top estates include Benanti, Tenuta delle Terre Nere, Cottanera and Biondi. Many celebrities and foreigners have flocked to Taormina and the Etna wine country: For example the singer for the band Simply Red  has a cult wine venture here (made by golden boy winemaker Salvo Foti, the wine is called Il Cantante, ie “the singer”). Some wine estates will allow visits if you request ahead of time, and of course we offer VIP tours to include both Taormina and the best wines of Etna.

WHAT TO SEE AND DO- Sightseeing highlights include an obligatory visit to the Ancient Greek Theatre located in an amazing natural amphitheater between mountain and the sea and overlooking Etna. Really and truly stunning place. Other places of interest include the Archaeological Museum and the Castello. For shoppers, Taormina is a paradise and you´ll find some of the best gourmet shops in Sicily (pick up sea salt from Trapani, olive oils, rare Passito and Moscato wines, chocolate from Modica and sooooooo many more goodies), excellent ceramics shops featuring traditional Sicilian ceramica, and some high end antique shops if you are looking for something unique. For nature lovers, hike down to Isola Bella, just below Taormina; it´s a protected marine reserve with crystalline waters that you can go swimming and snorkelling in. There are countless places to enjoy an aperitif or digestif with a view, and for silver screen glamour, have a (quite overpriced) cocktail at the Wunderbar.

WHERE TO STAY- Our two favorite hotels in Taormina are the 5* Palazzo San Domenico for its setting, history and opulence; and the newish very stylish 4* Villa Carlotta, without a doubt the best 4 star option in Taormina. While we don´t like the outdated rooms of the 5* Grand Hotel Timeo, its terrace bar (open to non residents) is simply GORGEOUS with direct views over the sea and Etna; a glass of bubbly here at sunset is a “must”.

WHERE TO EAT- Taormina has no shortage of restaurants and for an informal pizza or plate of scrumptious Pasta alla Norma, you have countless options on and around the Corso Umberto. You´ll find plenty of quaint trattorias and wine bars here, too. For fine dining, we love Al Duomo (great food and delightful location right in front of the pretty Duomo), the Michelin starred Principe Cerami Restaurant for food and elegant atmosphere  (inside the Palazzo San Domenico hotel, also open to non residents) and the wild creativity at Casa Grugno.

Campania is one of our favorite regions in Italy, so diverse and with such stunning countryside, coast and towns.  In this area of southern Italy, you’ll find the Amalfi Coast ,  the fascinating city of Naples, volcanic Pompeii, Capri, lesser known islands like Ischia and countless seaside hamlets.  Enjoy these short travel notes on Campania based on our various research trips and tours, to help you plan your next vacation:

CAMPANIA WINE APPELLATIONS-

DOCG:

Taurasi- the best Cru reds of Campania, and a lovely village
Fiano di Avellino- exquisite white wines, fullest bodied whites of all of Campania´s whites
Greco di Tufo- another stylish white brought to Campania by the Ancient Greeks

DOC:

Aglianco del Taburno
Aversa
Campi Flegrei
Capri
Castel San Lorenzo
Cilento
Costa d´Amalfi
Falerno del Massico
Gallucio
Guardia Sanframondi
Ischia
Penisola Sorrentina
Sannio
Sant´ Agata dei Goti
Solopaca
Vesuvio

TOP VINTAGES FOR TAURASI CRU WINES- 2001, 2000, 1999, 1998, 1997, 1993, 1990, 1988, 1985

CAMPANIA WINE GRAPES-

Main white grapes- Falanghina, Fiano, Greco, Coda di Volpe

Main red grapes- Aglianico, Piedirosso

A-Z Italian Grape Glossary

CAMPANIA TOP WINE ESTATES-

Antonio Caggiano

Caggiano is one of our favorites! This estate is beautiful (pristine vineyards, vaulted cellars, a little wine museum) and the wines are sleek and elegant. Caggiano´s Taurasi Vigna Macchia dei Goti is considered to be one of the best Taurasis in Campania, on a par with a very good Barolo. The white Fiagrè, made with Fiano and Greco, is a sexy white with a bewitching nose. Beautiful place, great wines. You can visit the local castle while in the area.

More info on Antonio Caggiano

Feudi di San Gregorio

The ultra modern Feudi di San Gregorio estate is one of the absolute best in Italy. LOcated in Sorbo Serpico (Avellino province), Feudi is incredible. They have an extensive line of red and white wines, using mainly indigenous varietals, and have a sparkling wine line made by superstar Riccardo Cotarella in conjunction with French Champagne god Anselme Seloss. The property is gorgeous and they have the best winery shop in the south. Also a superb restaurant, managed by 3 Michelin starred chef Heinz Beck.

More info on Feudi

Visit Feudi as part of a luxurious Amalfi Coast weekend wine tour

Mastroberardino

Called the “trailblazers of Irpinia”, Mastroberardino have their pretty wine cellar (not vineyards) in Altripalda. This family has been making wines since the late 1800´s.  Frescoes adorn the vaulted ceilings and they have a small shop where you to get some of their gems including the Radici cru, the colorfully named “Lacryma Christi” (which translates as “Tears of Christ”) and the Fiano based Vignadora. They also make wine on the volcanic soils of Pompeii, including the highly rated Villa dei Misteri. Mastroberardino have  a luxurious new small wine resort where you can sleep in the wine country if you want to visit a few cellars in the area.

More info on Mastroberardino winery

Their wine resort.

Montevetrano

This boutique winery was propelled into the international spotlight when Robert Parker coined it as the “Sassicaia of the south”. The winery is owned by Silvia Imparato who hired golden boy  Riccardo Cotarella to reconstruct her family´s vineyards located on a historic plot that had once belonged to the Bourbon monarchy. The first vintage was only in the early 90´s and it took the wine world by storm. The flagship Montevetrano is made with  60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot and 10% Aglianico Taurasi and is in the Colli di Salerno IGT appellation. The elegant estate is located near Salerno, in San Cipriano Picentino.

More info on Montevetrano

Mustilli

This is another of our favorite wineries in Italy.  The beautiful historic cellars are located in the 1000 year old village of Sant´ Agata dei Goti, whose villas hang off a dramatic cliff. Mustilli are credited for their important revival campaign for the native Falanghina grape, an Ancient Greek import to Campania, now making some of the freshest and loveliest white wines in the country. The patriarch Leonardo Mustilli wrote a book about the Falanghina, now considered to be the benchmark for reference. Winemaking has been in this family´s blood for over 500 years.  In the 16th century, the Mustilli ancestors arrived to this little village from Ravello and built the cellar, which is carved into the rockface. Today you can visit this historic cellar, and taste their excellent wines. Occasionally, the matriarch also hosts jazz music sessions in their little 17th century inn where you can stay.

More info on Mustilli

Villa Matilde

Another superb winery where Riccardo Cotarella is making sophisticated wines. Our favorites include the Falerno del Massico Bianco Cracci cru (made with 100% Falanghina-Falerna clone- aged in Alliers oak) and the single vineyard “Camarato (made with 80% Aglianico and 20% Piedirosso and winner of the prized Gambero Rosso Tre Bicchieri award). Villa Matilde has vineyards in the provinces of  Benevento (on the hills of Mount Taburno) and in Avellino (including the DOCG appellations of Fiano di Avellino and Greco di Tufo). The wine estate is remarkable, very beautiful and they have a luxurious small hotel as well.

More info on Villa Matilde

Viticoltori De Conciliis

Located in Prignano Cilento, southeast of the Ancient Greek settlement of Paestum and close tot he unspoiled national park of Cilento in southern Campania, this wine estate is a treat. Some of the wines we love include the Naima (intensely powerful Aglianico with 15% alc!) and the refined Donnaluna Fiano white. This part of Campania is more off the beaten track and a pleasure for nature lovers and foodies. You have some incredible beaches in this area, and some sublime Buffalo Mozzarella producers.

More info on Viticoltori De Conciliis

More wine producers (and food producers) in Campania

CAMPANIA RESTAURANTS-

Bacco Furore- We love this informal restaurant (in photo above) located on the Amalfi Coast in Furore and connected to the excellent Marisa Cuomo Gran Furor winery. Some highlights- marinated sald cod with wild fennel, Cavatelli with provola cheese and rucola and Chocolate covered fried eggplants! More info.

Don Alfonso 1890- Definitely the best high end restaurant on the Amalfi Coast, this Michelin starred ristorante is a legend and a “must” for foodies. Ask the sommelier if you can visit their historic wine cellar, awe inspiring. They have a new cooking school for those looking to learn some of the recipes, some of which date back to the Italian renaissance.

Eolo- Located in Amalfi town on the coast, inside the Marina Riviera hotel, this restaurant has a million dollar view! Expect fine cuisine, great views and service here.

Torre del Saracino- Another Michelin starred “must”.  Expect to see famous chefs and celebrities dining here. Chef Gennaro Esposito revives classic Campania recipes with a creative flair. More info.

Al Convento- Located in the wonderful authentic fishing village of Cetara, known for its “Colatura diAlici” (modern day version of Roman Garrum), the owner of this restaurant is one of the Amalfi Coasts´s best characters. A major promoter of “Slow Fish”, Pasquale also gives cooking classes using this ancient recipe. Traditional and highly recommended.

BUFFALO MOZZARELLA-

Vannullo is an EXCELLENT producer that you can visit. See the cheesemaking process, taste just-made buffalo mozzarella, ice cream and yogurt made with buffalo milk and visit the water buffalo.

CAMPANIA HOTELS-

For Silver Screen Glamour- the Palazzo Sasso is one of the most beautiful historic hotels in Italy with a gorgeous setting in Ravello.

Stylish, airy and youthful- For those looking for something more contemporary, Casa Angelina in Praiano is a Philippe Starck design hotel.

In Naples, for the best view in town, stay at the luxurious period hotel Grand Vesuvio, overlooking the castle and ther bay of Naples.

Other fabulous spots include Il San Pietro and Le Sirenuse in Positano, and Relais Blu in Massa Lubrense near the FABULOUS Quattro Passi restaurant.

WHAT TO SEE- Visit the beautiful towns on the Amalfi Coast including: Ravello, Positano, Amalfi, and Sorrento; don´t miss Naples, with its spectacular Archeological museum (including the erotic collection from Pompeii) and the world´s best pizza (taste pizza at Brandi); the islands of Capri and Ischia; the wine country; Ancient Roman settlements at Pompeii and Herculaneum, Ancient Greek settlement at Paestum; the “Versailles” of Southern Italy at Caserta.

WINE TOURS IN CAMPANIA AND AMALFI COAST- Some cellars open to the general public. Contact the Consorzio for more info. For private and VIP wine tours, we organize day excursions from Ravello, Positano and Naples and week long discovery tours of Campania.  More info on our Campania wine tours.

Photos of Campania