Cellar Tours Blog

Wine Tasting Site Inspection in La Rioja

We spent another couple days after the conference visiting wineries, some like Finca Valpiedra with whom we have been working for years, and other new ones like the spectacular Baigorri. We had a GREAT time! Here are the notes on our visits:

Marqués de Vargas

Located just outside Logroño next to the ultra prestigious Marqués de Murrieta, Eva is the polite host at this regal estate. The winery is uniquely a “Chateau” style and the owner is an aristocrat who also has a beautiful family residence on the estate. The winery is set up to receive VIP guests and they indeed cater to guests looking for exclusive tours. We tasted their flagship Rioja Reserva (not a tough way to start the day!) and other wines you can enjoy on private tours here include their white Pazo San Mauro albariño (made in their sister estate in Galicia) and rich Conde de San Cristóbal, made in the Ribera del Duero wine region. In spring and summer, the white wine can be taken as an aperitif overlooking their picturesque vineyards and then reds will follow in the professional tasting room. Delicious wine and an elegant place, loved it.

More info on the Marqués de Vargas wine estate here.

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Baigorri

One of Rioja´s newest and most innovative wineries, Baigorri is located just outside of the darling medieval hamlet of Samaniego (where cult winery Remirez de Ganuza´s estate is). The winery´s main attraction (apart from the wines of course) is its giant glass “box” which is perched on a platform and offers dramatic panoramic views over the vineyard-covered valleys on all sides.This estate offers a nice contemporary contrast to the older, historic cellars. The staff are young, competent and friendly and the wines were quite good. Geni gave us a great tour!

We dined at their beautiful restaurant overlooking the vineyards (other views in the restaurant look over the hundreds of oak barriques below). We tried the tasting menu pared with the entire line of wines (we were not driving!) and had the following outstanding lunch:

Amuse Bouches: Paté a la trufa natural (pate made with truffle) and Anchoa con pimiento del cristal (sauteed anchovy accompanied by “crystallized” red piquillo pepper), Croquetas caseras (homemade croquettes which were UNBELIEVABLE) and Salmón cruijiente al limón (crunch salmon a la lemon)- these were paired with the Baigorri fermentado en barrica (French barrel fermented Viura)

Appetizer/Starter: Alubias del pais con morcilla (in the photo below, this is a simple and delicious country dish made with local beans, blood pudding and tangy Guindilla peppers), paired with the Baigorri Crianza (juicy red, loved it)

Entre/ Main Course: Carillera de Ibérico al maceración Carbónica con hongos (slow cooked Iberian pork jowl cooked in young wine and mushrooms- paired with the Baigorri Garaje (Garage wine, their top wine, very good) and we also tasted their Reserva wine (actually preferred the Crianza to the reserva, but Garaje was favorite of them all).

Dessert- Cremoso de yema con yogurt, frutos rojos y helado crujiente- too many calories to describe, lovely

More info on the Baigorri wine estate here.

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Finca Valpiedra

The Finca Valpiedra has long been one of our favorite partners in La Rioja. This estate has it all- fabulous wines, stunning location overlooking the river and unspoiled vineyards in all directions, professional tasting room with million dollar views- and now they have Arancha. One of the most dynamic wine tourism professionals we have met in a long time in Spain, she is passionate about her job and about the estate´s wines. This is always fantastic for us to see, and we spent the late afternoon tasting Finca Valpiedrás finest wines including a vertical tasting of different Valpiedra vintages, 2 vintages of their 2nd brand (which we are crazy about) Cantos and various wines from their sister winery Finca Antigua (located in La Mancha) such as the simple but aromatic 100% blanco (made with Viura that spends 5 months on its lees), a delicious Moscatel and their cult (pricey) Clavis wine. We have some new, fun ideas for our tours here that will be very, very special….

More info on the Finca Valpiedra wine estate here.

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Ontañon

Don´t let the industrial location of this FABULOUS winery put you off. When you first arrive to Ontañon, you are not sure if you are arriving to a winery or a car dealership as indeed the previous life of this winery was a factory and the unattractive area outside completely hides the gem inside. Once you enter you literally enter another world. The infectious enthusiasm and charm of guide Jesus will win you over immediately and the interior is an alluring combination of medieval museum/ antiquities gallery adorned with wine barrels and bottles. We have worked with Ontañon for a few years and the quality of their tours has gone from strength to strength. On this particular morning, after a stroll through the cellar we tasted the Gran Reserva with Jesus, as well as their dessert wine and some high end olive oils they are now making. The winery (uniquely for the region) has a great shop with plenty of wine paraphenelia on offer, such as their own made wine chocolates, and wine spa products from the Nueva Antigua product line, made in Logroño. We love Ontañon and have some new ideas for this year such as Jazz and Wine….

More info on the Ontañon wine estate here.

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Castillo de Cuzcurrita

Not many wineries can boast they have an actual castle, and the tiny medieval nucleus of this wine estate and hamlet is quite special. The estate is precious with manicured vineyards, gardens, a historic castle and views over a tiny, flowing stream. And the wines are something else! We were hosted by the sales director and wine tourism manager and spent Sunday morning sipping their Rioja Reserva in a stone room of the castle. In nice weather, tastings can be organized outside in their pretty patio or even within the vineyard under a giant oak tree. This estate is in the very early stages of opening up for exclusive tours and we are excited to be working with them this year, adding them to our portfolio of partners. Fun fact- their wine maker is the super famous flying winemaker Ana Martin (of Itsas Mendi in Basque Country, Guitian in Valdeorras and Traslanzas in Cigales).

More info on the Castillo de Cuzcurrita wine estate here.

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Want to visit La Rioja? Here is some information on the Rioja wine region as well as a list of wineries, some of which open to the general public.  You can either sign up for a private and VIP chauffeured tour or you can have your hotel help you organize visits and local taxis. Don´t risk driving your own car if you will be tasting, as the wines here are strong (14 degrees +) and pourings generous!

Stay at the dramatic 5* Luxury Hotel designed by Frank Gehry at the Marqués de Riscal wine estate, the comfortable 4* Villa de Laguardia, or the rustic but adorable Villa de Abalos. If you speak Spanish then one of the many little country inns in Rioja could be an inexpensive and cozy choice.

While in Rioja, why not add a few days on to your vacation in the nearby Basque Country where you can eat at a number of Michelin starred restaurants, visit beautiful San Sebastian, check out the one and only Guggenheim museum in Bilbao, etc.

Rioja is simply one of our favorite wine regions in Europe and for wine lovers, we cannot suggest a trip here highly enough!

This past month we were invited to speak at the annual wine marketing conference in the wine capital of Logroño, in the gorgeous Rioja wine region. The conference lasted for 2 days and the majority of the 300 and odd guests were local wineries looking for unique ideas for wine tourism and innovative strategies to face the global wine crisis. We gave a presentation on Wine Tourism and addressed topics such a: new wine tourism experiences (both in Rioja and abroad, such as our tours in Italy and Portugal); the profile of the winery visitor (demographics); what wine tourists are looking for when they visit; examples of top class wineries offering exclusive wine tourism experiences (we chose Badia Passignano in Tuscany and Esporão in Alentejo); what wineries need to do in order to cooperate with agencies specialized in wine tours; innovative ideas for small wineries to develop wine tourism initiatives (wine picnics,4X4 tours of the vines, tastings set amid the vineyards, etc) and trends in the wine tourism sector. The audience was enthusiastic and full of young professionals working in Rioja wineries. Amazingly everyone stayed awake throughout the presentation as by the time we spoke it was about 6PM on a Friday evening with a mid day wine tasting

Wine Tourism in Rioja

The concept of wine tours and wine tourism in Spain overall is still in the infant stages. Far from established wine country tourist destinations like Napa Valley, Tuscany, Australia or Mendoza, many Spanish wine regions still can´t get their head around wine tourism -if they want it or not, if it will be mass tourism (big coaches) or exclusive tourism and the level of cooperation between wine estates to promote their regions and sub regions as a whole has not been strategic. The buzz word these days is- potential! We have been offering wine tours in Spain since 2003 and have overcome many barriers to getting wineries interested in receiving visitors and things are improving all the time. There is still a lot of work to be done to establish Rioja as a wine destination in the minds of international travelers.  However the wineries we work with in Spain and Rioja are true professionals, making great wines and creative with the style of visits they offer.

Fellow Speakers at the Wine Marketing Conference in Logroño

What an amazing panel of speakers this conference had over the course of the 2 days! These included Alice Feiring (An American wine journalist with a huge following on her blog, who talked about the influence of the press and the wine gurus. Her book “The Battle for Wine and Love: or How I Saved the World from Parkerization” is a NY Times bestseller), Anna Riera (a bubbly Catalan journalist specialized in food and wine),  the mega dynamic and supremely entertaining Saúl Mallols (one of the business managers of Lavinia), Stephen Rannekleiv (the Vice President of Rabobank International who talked about the American fine wine consumption market and how the economic crisis is affecting it) and Paolo Battegazzore (one of the heads at  Folio Fine Wine Partners in Napa who gave a fascinating and straightforward presentation about the complex and intricate world of wine importing in the USA and his recommendations for Rioja wine producers.

We also had some interesting, live video conferences with professionals around the world such as Miguel Ángel Rivas (Director of  Marinter S.A., the most prestigious wine company in México), and Federico Vázquez de Novoa (Tourism Manager in Mendoza, Argentina- the most successful wine tourism destination in South America). The caliber of speakers was extremely high and we were honored to be included on the panel.

Half way through the day, a sensorial wine tasting was organized for us, consisting of some gorgeous wines such as Numanthia (!!!). My my my, were we ever pampered, have a look at the hard day´s work:

Logroño- this small working wine town hosts a series of interesting wine events throughout the year. The “Catarsis” music and wine festival has just concluded, but you can catch it again next year (various wineries like Marqués de Vargas, Juan Alcorta, Franco Españolas, Darien, Ontañon and Ijalba host classic music evenings, fabulous! Another reason to come to Logroño are the tapas on the mythical calle Laurel. The idea is you have a pincho (small dish on a plate or brochette) and a glass of wine and wander down the street popping into bars as a way of having lunch or dinner. It´s fun and while here you could visit La Casita (get the brocheta de calamares y gambas), Bar El Cid (flagship pintxo is the grilled wild mushroom), Bar Donosti (get the Boletus con jamón de reserva), Bar Entremuros (stuffed red pepper), Taberna del Laurel (patatas bravas), and La Tasca del Pato (Atlantic crab). Other lovely places to wander around here include the Iglesia de Santiago, Plaza del Mercado, Calle Portales, and El Espolón.

Read about our site inspection of Rioja wineries here.

Check out other wine marketing and wine tourism conferences in Cape Town (July 2009) and Bordeaux (November).

Italy´s wine country is spectacularly varied from the dramatic valleys of Piedmont overshadowed by the Alps, to the fairytale wine roads of Chianti (complete with castles, medieval villages and cypress lined country roads), to the volcanic vineyards near Sicily´s Mount Etna.

Wine lovers coming to Italy are spoiled for choice when it comes to beautiful vineyards, charming restaurants and quaint family run wine estates; however luxurious and stylish accommodation has in years past, not been one of the highlights of the rural wine country. Not any longer! Wine hotels are hot hot hot right now, and there are some absolutely FABULOUS places to stay in the wine country now.

Here is a list of some of our favorite hotels either with a winery or right in the wine country (most set amid vineyards) throughout mainland the north of Italy (info on Southern Italian and Sicilian wine hotels coming soon!):

TUSCANY

L’Andana, Maremma

This is simply one of the loveliest hotels in Italy- a boutique luxury hotel located in a renovated 16th century Duke´s summer hunting lodge amid a vineyard near the castle crowned coastal village of Castiglione della Pescaia- right in the heart of Maremma, home of the Super Tuscans. L´Andana facilities include an “Espa” spa, vitality pool, a Michelin starred Alain Ducasse restaurant, vineyards and winery, hiking trails, tennis courts, – what more could you ask for?

More info on L´Andana hotel here.

Il Borro, Chianti

Owned by the Ferragamo fashion family (who purchased this medieval hamlet cum exclusive resort from the Dukes of Aosta), Il Borro is a unique vacation village. In the resort there are two ultra luxury villas and four farmhouses with individual apartments. It is located about half way between Florence and Perugia, close to the historic town of Arezzo. Within the resort there is a beautiful winery (wine has been made in this hamlet since the 1700´s) and the property also produces olive oil and honey. Il Borro is perfect for big groups or families wanting to visit the wine country in a relaxed, luxurious atmosphere. Activities that can be organized here apart from wine tasting include horseback riding, yoga, archery, hot air ballooning, and hiking.

More info on Il Borro here.

Castello del Nero, Chianti

A stunning, authentic 12th century castle that has been luxuriously appointed with period furniture and all the creature comforts, Castello del Nero is by far the most luxurious hotel in Chianti. Surrounded by 700 acres of romantic olive groves and vineyards, this stunning hotel could not be more picture perfect. There are 50 rooms, each uniquely decorated and many with claw foot bathtubs, and vaulted or frescoed ceilings. The facilities include one of the best spas in Italy and a fine restaurant (La Torre). This is the ultimate hotel for honeymooners and/or wine lovers looking for romance.

More info on Castello del Nero hotel here.

Banfi il Borgo, Montalcino

The prestigious American owned Brunello di Montalcino producer Banfi, also boats their own darling little wine country hotel, right on site. There are only 14 rooms, including some lovely suites, and the decor is rustic chic. Bathrooms are a strength here with features you don’t often find in European hotels like professional hairdryers, oversized showers, etc. Guests have access to many pretty exclusive areas like the reading room, the pergola garden and the convivial Taverna restaurant. Then of course, on the property, they can visit the winery castle and the glass museum, open to the general public. This is the best option for a luxury hotel near Montalcino, especially as Castello di Velona is closed for renovation.

More info on Banfi Borgo hotel here.

Chianti wine region profile and Chianti private tours.

Maremma wine region profile and Maremma private tours.

Montalcino wine region profile and Montalcino private tours.

PIEDMONT

L’Ostelliere, Gavi

Gavi is one of Piedmont’s least visited wine regions, and what a pity as some of the countryside is pristine, the village of Gavi offers a preserved historic center and the Monterotondo wine resort has it all- rustic hotel, top class restaurant (La Gallina), famous winery (Villa Sparina)- all set amid manicured vineyards. As in all the wine hotels, the most spectacular months to visit are September and October (harvest time) when the vineyards are at their best and the weather is still nice enough to sit outside on the terrace sipping a glass of wine taking it all in. Non wine related activities this hotel offers are bike tours of the area, posh picnics on the river, cooking classes, truffle hunting, and visits to rice producers. Of the 25 rooms here,12 are suites and worth paying extra for.

More info on Ostelliere hotel here.

Relais Monforte , Langhe

This is the Langhe´s newest highly acclaimed hotel just opened this spring. And it is an oasis for golf lovers! Located near the medieval wine hamlet of Monforte d´Alba in the heart of Barolo wine country,Relais Monforte actually has a working winery on site- the Cascina Gagliass. Many of the 36 bedrooms have big terraces and rooms and this contemporary and stylish hotel is just what the doctor ordered for guests looking for bright and airy decor and high end, discreet service. Facilities and services include: 9 hole golf course on site, wine tasting on site, private cooking classes, a wellness center, and stylish restaurant (Piedmont cuisine with an innovative approach).

More info on Relais Monforte hotel here.

Albergo Agenzia, Bra

Slow Food headquarters- how cool is that? The Albergo Agenzia, located near the Slow Food capital of Bra, is a handsome hotel set in a historic (Neo Gothic) Savoy residence. While the rooms are fairly simple and not luxurious by any means, the benefit to staying here is right on site you have the famed wine bank which you can visit and the outstanding Michelin starred Ristorante Guido. Also on site, out of interest, is the International University of Gastronomic Science which attracts culinary students and professionals from around the world. This hotel is also a good base for wine touring as you have Barolo, Barbaresco and Alba all nearby, not to mention Giolito cheese, our favorite cheese tasting venue.

More info on Albergo Agenzia hotel here.

Piedmont wine region profile and Piedmont private tours.

FRIULI

Terra e Vini, Gorizia

Friuli is THE “it place” for cult white wines at the moment. It´s huge fans and advocates include Mario Batali, and Joe Bastianich is even making wine here. we are also major fans of Friuli, one of Italy´s undiscovered wine regions. Located northeast of Venice, Friuli is home to some stunning scenery, interesting cities like Trieste (which attracted writers like James Joyce) and of course those wines…. white wines are what the region has become know for, and a new term has even been coined “Super Whites” and the town of Gorizia is where you´ll find some of the best wine country. This little hotel calls itself an osteria (restaurant) with rooms. Indeed, the rooms are an afterthought and don´t expect luxury, but if you want to be in the thick of the wine country this is a great option. Elda Felluga’s restaurant has become mythical and you can experience it for yourself, then stay over and wake up to views of the gentle Friulian countryside.

More info on Terra e Vini hotel here.

Friuli wine region profile.

FRANCIACORTA

L´Albereta Relais & Chateaux

Franciacorta is Italy´s most exclusive sparkling wine region and this gorgeous Relais & Chateaux is simply the only place to stay for guests looking for romance, atmosphere and luxury, of course! Located less than 90 minutes east of Milan, near the pretty Lake Iseo and the town of Brescia, Franciacorta is one of the north´s hidden wine country gems. The Albereta is the perfect place to stay for a wine tasting spa weekend, with its 2 same owned wineries (stylish Contadi Castaldi and the uber prestigious Bellavista) and world class spa (which includes Apollo, the new beauty technology). If you are celebrating a special occasion and want to splash out, book the Cabriolet room in the Torre di Lago- push a button and the roof opens up for you to admire the stars from your four poster bed! Another fabulous reason to stay here is to dine at Gualtiero Marchesi´s super famous restaurant, benissimo!

More info on Albereta Relais & Chateaux hotel here.

Relais Franciacorta

For an inexpensive option in the Franciacorta wine country, this is a great choice. Use this comfortable, rustic hotel as a base to explore the top wineries of the area such as Bellavista, Bersi Serlini, and Il Mosnel. Set up a cooking class at one of the local restaurants. Do a Michelin star dining tour of the region, rent a boat on the lake, visit the art city of Bergamo and see the Ancient Roman ruins in Brescia, take some invigorating hikes… there are many opportunities for a relaxing vacation in Francciacorta. This hotel has 50 rooms, some of which have lake views (worth it) and decor is simple country design. one thing to watch out for though is that many weddings are organized here, so make sure a wedding does not correspond to your dates if staying here as it is no fun if not your own wedding!

More info on Relais Franciacorta hotel here. 

Franciacorta wine region profile and Franciacorta private tours.

VENETO- PROSECCO AND VALPOLICELLA

Relais Duca di Rolle Bisol, Prosecco

In the gentle rolling hills of the Prosecco wine country, the wonderful Bisol winery have opened this darling little self catering complex in the hamlet of Rolle. About 50 minutes north of Venice, you are immersed in unspoiled countryside here. This is a fantastic option for big families travelling together as you can rent the various apartments and cook on your own in the fully equipped kitchens. There are also 2 great little restaurants in the hamlet. If you are on a budget and want to spend a few days in the wine country close to Venice, this is a stellar choice. Time it to correspond with the Cocofungo mushroom festival in October or the various wine festivals in the region. Don´t miss Bisol´s winery of course as well as the stately Villa Sandi.

More info on Bisol wine hotel here.

Villa Quar, Relais & Chateaux

The Valpolicella wine region is home to the famed Amarone and Recioto wines, and is a delight to visit. You can either use historic Verona as a base, or for something more romantic and original, you can stay right in the countryside (only 5 km from Verona). And great news- there is a marvelous Relais & Chateaux hotel awaiting you here. This five star luxury hotel is set inside a vential Villa and the Villa Quar is strikingly elegant. The villa itself is Italian patrimony, and breathes history and prestige. A n ancient stone wall encircles the breathtaking property, which encompasses its own vineyards used to make the hotel´s own wine (!) The gastronomic Arquade (2 Michelin stars) restaurant is world class and foodies from all over Northern Italy flock here. There are 28 room here, 10 of which are suites, and decor is classic Relais & Chateaux style. Rooms are stuffed with many antiques, too. Gorgeous and the ultimate destination for a wine tasting weekend in Valpolicella.

More info on Villa Quar, Relais & Chateaux here.

Prosecco wine region profile and Prosecco private tours.

Valpolicella wine region profile and Valpolicella private tours.

More Wine Hotels in SOUTHERN ITALY coming soon.

While our blog is normally dedicated to the finer things in life- food, wine and travel- this post is an urgent appeal to our friends, colleagues and clients to make a donation to the victims of Italy´s recent earthquake, one of the worst in Italian history.

Apart from the tragic deaths, over 50, 000 Italians are now homeless! As the government is predictably not doing enough to help (thousands of people are living in tents and have faced food shortages), the NGOs are stepping in to help.

We suggest you make your donation to reliable charities like the Red Cross and that you watch out for charity scams from unknown organizations!

Cellar Tours has made a donation to the earthquake victims and we urge you to send a donation as well, even a small amount will help if we all pitch in.

Links to charities mobilized with the relief efforts:

Canadian Red Cross (web in English)

Italian Red Cross (web in Italian)