Cellar Tours Blog

An afternoon at the Salone del Gusto, By Ivano Martignetti

Being the first Italian capital and home of the Italian royal family, Turin (in the region of Piemonte)  has been for a very long time the benchmark for Italian cuisine and the destination for chefs and oenologists on a mission to please refined palates. As such, this wonderful and lively city is still the ideal venue for an event like the “Salone del Gusto”, which took place last weekend and was a melting pot of food lovers and professionals working in the food industry.

The relation between food and terroir, or “territorio” has been the focus point of the 8th edition of the event and the public was given the opportunity to experience international food specialties along with regional ones, tasting delicacies at the stands and participating in the seminars organized by the producers and the organizations invited to the event. This is how I learned more about saffron, attending a seminar organized by the Slow Food branch of San Gavino Monreale (Medio Campidano provence, Sardinia), where saffron was brought in the XVI century by a Spanish entrepreneur.

It’s good to know, for the next time you decide to go shopping, that 1 kilo of saffron can cost you around 16,000 euro… Indeed with 1 hectare of land you can only produce 10 kilos of saffron and to have 1 gram you need to use 150 flowers. A very precious spice, don’t you think? Try it with “fregola” and eel, and match it with a Nuragus “I Fiori” DOC , produced by Pala, or use it to prepare “pirichittus” with a hint of lemon zest, to be paired with a Moscato produced by Calasetta, an incredible sensorial experience!

Some snapshots from Salone del Gusto 2010-

Merano Wine Festival 2010- “the” wine event of the season for Italian wine lovers

By Ivano Martignetti

The most elegant and exclusive wine event in Italy is just around the corner, from the 5th to the 8th of November, the Merano Wine Festival.  The magnificent Kurhaus is an incredibly elegant venue for the event and exclusive as not all producer are eligible to participate.  Indeed producers are required to send their samples to the examining commission of the MWF and if their wines receive a score of more than 86/100 they can participate, with no more than 3 wines for each winery.

The actual score is not available to the public, to allow everyone to have their own idea without being influenced by the evaluation of the expert examiners, but the highest level of quality is guaranteed by the work done months before the beginning of the event.

This year 1.317 top quality wines will be presented in Merano, with 370 Italian producers, 35 top producers of the “Union des Grands Crus de Bordeaux”, 100 producers from the best wine regions in the world. Moreover, the Gourmet Arena will host food artisans’ stalls, artisanal breweries, grappa and distillates. The wine tourism aficionados this year in Merano will receive a treat, the presentation of exceptional wine resorts.

To prepare for this major wine event, we suggest trying  some of the Alto Adige/Süd Tirol wines that you’ll be able to taste during the Merano Wine Festival and in the restaurants of the area, should you decide to stay in Merano longer than the duration of the event.

Our top wine picks:

·    Baron de Pauli, “Arzio”, Cabernet-Merlot.
·    Elena Walch, “Blauburgunder” Alto Adige DOC 2008, Pinot Noir 100%.
·    Nals Margreid, “Baron Salvadori Gewürztraminer”, Gewürztraminer 100%
·    Kloster Neustift, “Südtiroler Lagrein Mariaheim”, Lagrein 100%.

Hope to see you there!

Info on the Merano Wine Festival here.

Notes from last year´s Merano event here.

While in the region, we can organize an exclusive day (or longer tour)  of wine touring with driver, Mercedes and private visits to top estates in Northern Italy. Contact us for more info.

Wines of the Camino de Santiago- Wine Tasting along the Saint James Pilgrimage

This has been a record year for number of pilgrims on the “Camino de Santiago” with visitors coming from all over the world, and travelling clear across the North of Spain to Santiago de Compostela on foot, cycling, horseback, and those with less time available, by car.  The experience is amazing and even life changing for some, and while in centuries and decades past the pilgrimage was purely religious, these days people from all walks of life and religions take part in the Camino for a number of reasons- spiritual, for their health, as a sabbatical or break between professions, and many, as a unique life affirming vacation. Some of Spain´s loveliest cathedrals and medieval towns are located along the camino. And the bonus for wine lovers is that many of Spain´s best wine regions also crisscross the north of the country.

There are  5 main pilgrim routes to Santiago in Spain, and others originating outside Spain in greater Europe but the most popular and traditional of the caminos is the “Camino Francés“, the French Way which starts in French Basque Country and stretches nearly 800 kilometers to Santiago de Compostela. Here are some notes on wine tasting and traveling along the Camino Francés, for food and wine lovers.

1. ST JEAN PIED DE PORT- IROULÉGUY WINE REGION

Sightseeing: If you have a few days before starting the Camino, explore the French Pays Basques-  Biarritz, the darling fishing village of St Jean de Luz, the picture postcard of Ainhoa, etc.  St Jean Pied de Port itself is a lovely small town as is Roncevalles and St Etienne de Baigorry is in  the heart of Irouleguy wine country.

What to drink: Domaine Arretxea, Domaine Brana, Domaine Ilarria, Domaine Etxegaraya

Where to stay: Stay in a simple room at the Hotel Pyrenee and dine at their Relais & Chateaux restaurant

2. PAMPLONA- NAVARRA WINE REGION

Sightseeing: Puente la Reina with its medieval bridge, 18th century Santa Eulalia de Merida church in Etxauri (14 km from Pamplona), the Hemingway trail in Pamplona, the Ermita de Santa Maria de Eunate in Muruzabal, the monastery of Irache (also a winery) with its fuente de vino (a highlight for walkers on the camino with its free wine), the hamlet of Dicastillo, the magnificent fairy tale castle in Olite, the lovely Iglesia de Santa Maria in Tafalla, Ujue with its fortress and the medieval hamlet of Larraga.

What to drink: El Chaparral de Vega Sindoa (Nekeas), Esencia Monjardin, Alzania Seleccion, Ochoa Vino dulce de Moscatel, Calchatas, Guelbenzo Evo, Coleccion 125 Chardonnay fermentada en barrica (Chivite).

Local dishes to try: Bacalao ajoarriero, Esparragos de Navarra, Cordero al Chilindron

Local festivities: The truffle festival in Oloríz in December, The medieval festival of Olite in August and the international folkloric dance festival in Lodosa in July.

Visit wineries (always by appointment): Castillo de Monjardin, Palacio de Muruzabal, Principe de Viana

Where to stay: La Perla in Pamplona, the beautiful Parador in Olite and the Relais & Chateaux El Peregrino in Puente la Reina

3. LAGUARDIA- LA RIOJA WINE REGION

Sightseeing: Medieval villages like Laguardia, Briones and Ábalos; Tapas (Calle Laurel) and some fine churches in Logroño; the hamlet of Navarrete; beautiful Torremontalbo; Nájera; the extremely important monasteries of San Millán de la Cogolla (birthplace of the Spanish language; and the  Santo Domingo la Calzada is a major stop on the Camino de Santiago.

What to drink:  Tempranillo is king here and Rioja has some amazing producers making both traditional and modern style wines. We love Benjamín Romeo´s Contador, Sierra Cantabria, Remirez de Ganuza, Roda, Hermanos Peciña, Muga, Artadi, Finca Valpiedra and Señorio de San Vicente.

Local dishes to try: menestra de verduras (fresh sauteed local veggies, Rioja is a big vegetable producing part of Spain), alcachofas frescas salteadas con jamón ibérico (sauteed artichokes with cured ham, Bacalao a la Riojana (cod, Rioja style), Chuletillas al sarmiento (baby lamb chops grilled over grape vines).

Where to stay: The Marqués de Riscal wine resort in El Ciego is the most luxurious property (with wine spa and Frank Gehry design) and the Villa de Laguardia is a solid four star outside medieval Laguardia, with a spa offering wine and olive oil treatments. Also recently opened in Laguardia´s main plaza is the Hospederia Los Parajes Inn.

Visit wineries (always by appointment): Darien, Baigorri, Muga, Lopez de Heredia, Juan Alcorta (Campo Viejo).  Luxury wine tours in Rioja, see sample program here.

Local festivities: the “wine battle” of Haro in June, the medieval festival of Briones also in June, another lesser known wine “battle” in San Asensio and an array of harvest festivals

4. BURGOS- RIBERA DEL DUERO WINE REGION

Sightseeing: The magnificent cathedral of Burgos, the pretty historic center of Lerma, Peñafiel with its castle housing a wine museum, the pharmacy of Peñaranda (dating to 1635!) and the medieval village of Covarrubias.

What to drink: Tinto del Pais, otherwise known as Tempranillo is the main grape in this red wine producing region. Top wines include Dominio de Pingus, Vega Sicilia, Pesquera, Mauro, Dominio de Atauta,  Alion, Emilio Moro, Arzuaga, Viña Mayor, Abadia Retuerta, Viña Pedrosa, Pago de los Capellanes and Pago de Carrovejas.

Local dishes to try: Lechazo asado!! This is the definitive local dish, baby lamb roasted in ancient clay or brick ovens. Also, Asparagus from Tudela, Cochinillo (suckling pig), Morcilla de Burgos (black pudding spiced with paprika) and Salchicha de Zaratán are local specialties.

Where to stay: Palacio de la Merced in Burgos, Convento las Claras hotel and spa in Peñafiel, and the gorgeous Parador in Lerma, a 17th century ducal palace.

Visit wineries (always by appointment): Legaris, Matarromera, Prado Rey, Protos, Abadia Retuerta (who just opened a new gastronomic  restaurant onsite). Luxury wine touring options in Ribera here.

5. LEON- BIERZO WINE REGION

Sightseeing: Leon´s outstanding cathedral, Astorga, Ponferrada with its fairy tale castle (featured in our most beautiful castles in Spain post), unique landscapes in Las Médulas, the abandoned castle of Corullón, the Cistercian monastery of Carracedo.

What to drink:  The land of Mencia! Amazing value red wines here and top bets include Dominio de Tares Cepas Viejas, Paixar, Pétalos del Bierzo

Local dishes to try: “El Botillo” (dating to medieval times), Cecina (cured beef), Cordero asado (roast lamb), Empanada de “batallón”

Where to stay: The Prada a Tope wine estate in Canedo.

6. GALICIA- VALDEORRAS

What to see/do: Dine and spa at Spa Pazo do Castro, visit the outrageously baroque retablo in the tiny church of Rubia, the Monastery of Xagoaza (headquarters to the Godeval winery) and check out the Ancient Roman Cigarrosa bridge near the wine producing village of Petín.

What to drink: Godello is the main grape here and our faves are  Valdesil and As Sortes. Other good ones include Joaquin Rebolledo, Godeval and Guitian Fermentado en barrica (Bodegas la Tapada).

7.  GALICIA- RIBEIRA SACRA

What to see/do: This is the prettiest of all Galician wine appellations and the riverside scenery is sublime (the Miño and Sil rivers converge here).  Here is a great website in English with a full list of sightseeing options.  Wonderful area.

What to drink: a host of white and red varietals are grown here including Albariño, Treixadura, Loureiro, Torrontés, etc. Uniquely a region known for reds and whites. We love love love Adega Alguiera, as well as Témera, and Dominio do Bibei.

Local Festivities: There are many wine festivals in the region including the charmingly named wine producing area of Sober.

Where to stay: Located in pristine forest and countryside in this beautiful wine region is the delicious Parador of San Estevo, featured in our post on the best wine hotels in Spain.

8.GALICIA- RIBEIRO

What to see/do: The Monastery of San Salvador in Celanova (founded in 936, although much of what you see now is 16th and 18th century add ons), the curious spas in Cortegada (in a modernista palace) and the tiny but interesting Jewish quarter in the small medieval town of Ribadavia.

What to drink:  Ribeiro is known for its fresh whites and we quite enjoy Viña Mein, not to mention the fab estate of Pazo Casanova.

9.GALICIA- RIAS BAIXAS

What to see/do:  Stay at the Parador of Baiona, one of the most scenically perched Parador hotels in Spain. Cambados is a quaint fishing village.  And the Cies islands are to die for, rent a private boat to explore.

What to drink: Albariño, but of course! Considered the most elegant white wine in Spain, the Albariño grape flourishes in the vineyards of this area (Rias Baixas translates as “low rivers”, referring to the estuaries in southern Galicia). Top producers include: Fefiñanes,  Pazo de Barrantes (owned by Rioja´s Marques de Murrieta), Pazo de Señoráns, Terras Gaudas, and Lagar de Fornelos. The Martin Codax brand is probably the most popular Albariño abroad, and one you are likely to find back home.

10. SANTIAGO DE COMPOSTELA!

Sightseeing: The cathedral is of course the first stop for pilgrims and the energy here at the end of the camino is amazing, with people from all over the world descending on the cathedral and then the bars and restaurants of the old town. The fun thing to do here is just get lost in the old town and taste food and wine along the way.

What to drink: The tapas bars in Santiago serve Albariño in pretty ceramic cups and it is hard to find a bad house Albarino! The zippy white wine pairs perfectly with specialties like Pulpo a la Gallega (octopus drizzled in olive oil and smoked Spanish paprika).

Where to stay: For us, there is only one place to stay in Santiago itself and that is is at the beautiful Parador, which breathes history and romance.

POST CAMINO WINE EXPLORING:

The Douro Valley is only a few hours south and Northern Portugal is a treat for those looking for fabulous food and wine and unspoiled wine country.

The 10 Best Female Chefs in Northern Italy- Hot List

by Ivano Martignetti

When I first started to reflect on this topic, I decided to ask my best friends if they had any idea. Most of them, spontaneously, answered it was their mother or their grandmother. Now, this is funny and interesting at the same time, because it shows how close to our heart and emotional food is for Italians and how subjective a rating can be for all of us..  Anyway, going back to the quest, to highlight the best female chefs in Northern Italy,  I have done  some seriously delicious research and I am sure you won’t be disappointed if you’ll go and try the creations of one of these food artists listed below, in random order:

Isa Mazzocchi, restaurant “La Palta”, Borgonovo Val Tidone (PC)

Isa Mazzocchi is a young chef on the move, many people are wondering why her restaurant has not been awarded with a Michelin star yet, but this just a detail.. Isa Mazzocchi is from the wonderful Tidone Valley around Piacenza and she is proud to transform her passion for her land into lively food creations. The restaurant she runs with her family is a warm place where you can go and taste her menus accompanied with a consistent list of wines from the area and beyond. Some fabulous photos here on Viaggatore Gourmet.

Luisa Valazza, restaurant “Al Sorriso”, Soriso (NO)

The story of Luisa Valazza, a dynamic chef whose restaurant is located in Piedmont,  is an example of bravery and persistence, as the three starred chef started her career 25 years ago out of an emergency! She was running her restaurant with her husband when the former chef decided to leave, that’s when she decided to do it herself, having only 10 days to get ready. The advice of chef friends and an incredible talent lead the restaurant to international success. One could say that the chef who left her in the lurch actually left her the most beautiful gift ever – discovery of her talent!

Photo Credit: JWillson@theage.com.au

Nadia Santini, restaurant “Dal Pescatore”, Canneto sull’Oglio (MN)

Portrayed in the international press as the “lady of Italian cuisine” or by French food critics as “the best chef in the world”, Nadia Santini is an example of total devotion to tradition and respect of the surrounding region and terroir. Her secret is in the profound knowledge of the raw ingredients and in the research of the best local ingredients, some of them coming from the kitchen garden between her restaurant and the “Oglio” river.

Antonia Klugman, restaurant “Antico Foledor” c/o Villa Lovaria, Pavia di Udine (UD)

A romantic love story, probably a good script for an Hollywood movie, Antonia Klugman could inspire the next food lovers movie hit, with a young woman studying to become a lawyer who falls desperately in love with cooking struck by an exhibition on TV of Catalan food God Ferran Adrià, gives up law school and embraces her new life as an apprentice. The story has also an happy ending, as Antonia Klugman, after learning from famous and renowned chefs found her own way and is now successfully running “Antico Foledor”, where she spoils her customers with inspired creations made of ingredients from her kitchen garden and an elegant but not intrusive oriental touch. Stay tuned..

Photo Credits: Luigi Cremona http://www.porzionicremona.it/info/

Paola Budel, restaurant “Venissa”, Isola di Mazzorbo (VE)

Another young chef, another talent to be proud of in the Italian culinary world, Paola Budel studied with mythic masters like Gualtiero Marchesi, also founder of the talent factory ALMA and Michel Roux. She then traveled the world to complete her profile and find new inspirations, coming back from London, Munich, Tokyo and Hong Kong with new dreams and ideas. After working in Milan she now stands out with her style and a precise belief, the use of exclusively km zero ingredients, which means different menus every day, depending on what the local farmers can provide her. This venue is unique in Venice and owned by top Prosecco producer Bisol.

Viviana Varese, restaurant “Alice”, Milano (MI)

Those who still believe that the best seafood restaurants are in cities near the coasts have not yet tried the specialties of Viviana Varese, chef of restaurant “Alice” in Milan. Viviana started to play around in the kitchen of her parents’ restaurant when she was a kid, her love for seafood is absolute and it’s impossible not to feel it when you finally taste her creations. Make it a priority next time you are in Milan.

Fabrizia Meroi. Restaurant “Laite”, Sappada (BL)

Fabrizia Meroi’s repertoire is an harmonic mix of creativity and tradition, testified by a Michelin star in 1997 and pursued learning first on her own and then with Enzo Da Pra and Vissani. A fairy-tale location in the Dolomites and a meticulous research for the right wines to match with her recipes, make Laite the perfect hideaway from the rest of the world; almost in paradise, considering the privilege of the experience…

Anna Matscher, Restaurant “Zum Loewen”, Tesimo

After all these beautiful stories, if you are struck by remorse for not having pursued your cooking dream, don’t give up! That’s what the story of Anna Matscher will teach you. She was working as a professional masseuse in Vienna when she met her future husband, who inherited a restaurant and shared with his wife the will to revolutionize their lives. Anna finally decided to pursue her dream, went to learn the basics from brilliant German chef Hans Haas and started her new life. She did very well for herself, as she’s now the only Michelin starred female chef in Alto Adige / Sud Tirol!

Aurora Mazzucchelli, Restaurant “Marconi”, Sasso Marconi (BO)

Another bright star, committed to emphasizing the quality of the local products carefully avoiding to fall into banality, striving for perfection in her artistic compositions, giving an harmonic touch to everything she creates. The effort made in the kitchen is certainly not spoiled by the wine selection, enriched by her deep appreciation of local rare wines and grape varietals which perfectly match with the chef’s pieces of culinary art.

Benedetta Parodi, “Cotto e Mangiato”, Celebrity TV Chef

This is a special mention not to lose contact with real, every day cooking; meals that any of us can enjoy trying to cook in his own kitchen. Benedetta Parodi, not a professional cook but a “cooking lover” for sure, deserves a mention in this article as she may not be at the same level of the mentioned chefs, but she certainly is a reference for any food lover in need of original ideas, and recipes that can be easily followed by beginners. She contributes to spreading culinary passion and knowledge for those who want to enjoy down to earth cooking,while still enjoying a remarkable food experience worthy of a starred restaurant.