Cellar Tours Blog

Vinos Dulces

LOS OTROS VINOS- Alberto Coronado

Existen en el mercado “otros vinos” que no  son, ni con mucho los más consumidos, ni tampoco los más conocidos por el gran público. Es un totum revolutum de clasificaciones y de elaboraciones; también de zonas de producción, de denominaciones de origen, de países, de climas e incluso de culturas. Son los llamados “vinos nobles” y sin duda cada uno de ellos tiene su leyenda, su historia y hasta su cruz particular. En cualquier caso son vinos inclasificables por su tipicidad y personalidad, pero si todos tienen algo en común es su altísima calidad. España aporta a esta lista algunos de los vinos más peculiares del mundo.

Se les denomina “vinos nobles” porque muchos de ellos han sido durante siglos tesoros únicos en las mesas de los mejores salones imperiales europeos. Destacan por ser originales y sublimes y dan reconocimiento y prestigio a unas contadísimas zonas vitivinícolas del mundo. Entre ellos se encuentran las “rarezas” enológicas más logradas, las producciones más escasas y en muchos casos los precios más astronómicos.

Se elaboran en todos los continentes, pero es en Europa donde encontramos los más representativos. Son difícilmente clasificables por su peculiaridad y por ser los vinos más artesanales y más personales que existen. Algunos son frutos de la casualidad, otros de la desidia y otros de la adversidad climática incluso política de una determinada zona de producción.

Para hacer una primera clasificación muy somera habría una gran división entre vinos generosos y dulces o licorosos.
A continuación vamos a detallar las principales tipologías en las que se pueden englobar dichos vinos:

Generosos

Se denominan vinos generosos los que tienen un contenido en alcohol entre 14º y 23º, a muchos de ellos se les suele añadir alcohol vínico y sus crianzas son habitualmente muy prolongadas, como en el caso de Jerez, Montilla Moriles y Málaga mediante el sistema de soleras y criaderas. En este tipo de vinos es su elaboración lo que los hace realmente únicos, por encima de las variedades de uva utilizadas o las influencias climáticas de cada cosecha.

Asombrosamente y a pesar de ser uno de los grandes vinos del mundo y nuestra única aportación al panorama internacional de vinos representativos de una zona reconocida durante siglos en España, el vino de Jerez es mínimamente conocido y consumido. Hasta tal punto que bodegueros y “entendidos” en la materia se confiesan poco conocedores de este tipo de vinos. Hace algunos años la prestigiosa revista “The Economist” hizo una encuesta entre sus suscriptores sobre sus preferencias a la hora de tomar una bebida alcohólica. El Jerez se alzó en el primer puesto por delante de la ginebra o el whisky o incluso del vino francés. Claro, eso en el Reino Unido. Nadie es profeta en su tierra.

Licorosos

El segundo grupo estaría formado por los vinos dulces o licorosos ,aquí deberíamos hacer más subdivisiones, ya que el azúcar residual que nos encontramos tiene orígenes y modos de obtención muy diferentes. Según el procedimiento empleado y las zonas de producción. En cualquier caso en esta clasificación todos los vinos son dulces.

Por fermentación parcial

Cuando el mosto inicia la fermentación, esta se detiene mediante la adición de alcohol vínico. Generalmente pasan posteriormente a barricas para continuar su crianza y algunos son sometidos a largos envejecimientos o a altas temperaturas para conseguir un enranciamiento posterior.

El gran representante de este primer grupo es sin lugar a dudas el Oporto, uno de los grandes mitos y que merecería capítulo aparte. También los moscateles de grano menudo y de Alejandría de Rivesaltes, Setubal, Frontignan o Samos junto con los vinos de Banyuls, Madeiras, Marsalas o Garnatxas catalanes estarían aquí representados. En España hay zonas con gran tradición de moscateles como Valencia, Málaga, Navarra, Alicante o Canarias.

Deshidratación por Botrytis Cinerea

La vendimia se retrasa para así exponer la uva al hongo llamado botrytis cinerea. Éste produce la deshidratación del grano y el consiguiente aumento de la concentración de azúcares. Son vinos de una acidez elevada y de una untuosidad inigualable.Para que se produzca este proceso las cepas deben estar ubicadas cerca de ríos o lagos, con brumas matinales seguidas de fuertes insolaciones diurnas. Son unos vinos de color ambarino o dorado muy glicéricos, melosos y con notas de membrillo, orejón desecado y miel de acacia.

Al tener que ser recogidas las uvas en la mayoría de los casos grano a grano se encuentran en esta categoría algunos de los vinos mas caros del mundo; los Tokaj húngaros, Sauternes en Francia y los beerenauslese y trockenbeerenauslese en Alemania y Austria.

Vendimias tardías o dulces naturales

La recogida de la uva al igual que en anterior caso se retrasa para forzar su sobremaduración. La concentración de azúcares es mayor con lo que se obtienen vinos dulces naturales de unos 12º a 14º. En España hay experiencias con fantásticos resultados como los de Chivite pero son los Spätlese en Alemania y Austria , los vendimias tardías de Tokaj o los “Selección de granos nobles” franceses los más conocidos internacionalmente.

Deshidratación por asoleo

Las uvas una vez recogidas se esparcen en esteras de esparto y se las somete al asoleo durante dos semanas aproximadamente. El agua que contienen los granos se evapora y los azúcares se concentran, pasificando las uvas. El contenido en azúcar es tan elevado que la fermentación apenas es posible, por lo que se añade alcohol vínico hasta alcanzar los 15º. Estas mistelas envejecen en botas, alcanzando niveles de concentración y de vejez verdaderamente asombrosos.

Son los Pedro Ximenez en Jerez, Montilla Moriles y Málaga los más emblemáticos. También se puede hacer este proceso de pasificación por estufado artificial como los Passitos italianos o  como los Strohwein (vinos de paja) Alsacianos, del Jura o los alemanes y austríacos. Se consiguen almacenando las uvas durante tres meses sobre esteras de paja o juncos o colgándolas de cuerdas y secadas al aire. Y por supuesto uno de los grandes dulces españoles, el Fondillón.

Las denominadas mistelas no se podrían considerar propiamente vinos en el concepto estricto de la palabra, ya que para denominarse de esta manera debería haber fermentación alcohólica y en el caso de las mistelas todo su alcohol es por adicción. Por esta razón los vinos amistelados serían  vinos licorosos generosos elaborados con concentrado de uvas, más alcohol vínico autorizado con una graduación superior a los 13º y azúcares residuales superiores a 100 gr/l.

Deshidratación por congelación

La vendimia se retrasa hasta noviembre o diciembre logrando la congelación del agua del grano. Las uvas en este estado son trasladadas rápidamente a la bodega para vinificarlas y conseguir atrapar todo el dulzor del grano congelado. Son vinos de color pálido, de elevada acidez y poca graduación alcohólica.

Son los conocidos Eiswein alemanes o austríacos. Aunque recientemente en Canadá también se hacen estos vinos con muy buenos resultados.

En definitiva en esta clasificación puede ser variable según se realice organolépticamente, por denominaciones históricas o por contenido alcohólico. En cualquier caso se podrían incluir los vinos espumosos naturales, gasificados, de aguja, aromatizados, enverados o de aperitivo, pero los mencionados sin lugar a dudas engloban no sólo vinos especiales, sino los vinos históricos de más alta categoría en el ámbito de la enología mundial.

Más:

Vinos de Oporto

Vega Sicilia, El Valor de un Mito- Vinos Iconos

El Palo Cortado, el Vino de Leyenda

Vestirse de Etiqueta – Etiquetas de Vino

Cellar Tours are proud sponsors of an exciting new project to bring renewal energy and resource infrastructure to rural Africa.

Based in Portugal, RVE.SOL – Rural Energy Solutions Ltd are a social entrepreneurship for profit who have created a unique rural village energy solution called KUDURA and who are literally bringing renewable electricity, biogas and potable drinking water to rural villages for the first time ever. The first pilot project was recently launched in Sidonge, Kenya in cooperation with CABE, the Centre for African Bio-Entrepreneurship.

On a pay-for-service basis, the pilot is providing the community with clean drinking water, electricity to twelve homes and biogas for 5 families, freeing them from the daily grind of carrying water from polluted water holes (2-3km), creating enough power for low energy home lighting, charging mobile phones and powering small televisions. Biogas is a renewal source of gas for cooking derived from cattle manure.

We wish Vivian Vendeirinho and his crew all the best with this groundbreaking project, which is helping people in poor, rural areas to help themselves.

Please take five minutes, and help spread the word.”Like” their Facebook page to keep up with the latest developments of this worthy project, and have a look at their website

Food Lovers Guide to New Year´s Resolutions

2011 is almost behind us, so it is time to make next year´s resolutions and as Virginia Woolf famously quipped, “One cannot think well, love well, sleep well, if one has not dined well”.  The best way to improve our lives is to look after our diet!

So here are some tips on how to enjoy and live a healthier and more delicious 2012:

1. Stop buying pre-cooked/pre-made food, junk food, deli food. Get rid of pre-made cookie dough, canned stock, canned clam juice, frozen pizzas, pre-seasoned breadcrumbs, etc, they are full of additives, preservatives and artificial flavoring (check the ingredients, sometimes you have a list of  50 and more!).  Learn the joy of making it yourself, it is easy, healthier and more flavorful.

2. Go to your local farmers markets more often. This promotes zero miles food, supports local food producers, and food is generally organic and always in season  (here is a helpful calendar for seasonal fruit and vegetables ).

Photo Credit natalie maynor

3. Always drink  (and also for cooking!) quality wine, as Latins said “Bonum vinum laetificat cor hominis”-  Good wine gladdens a person’s heart. Always keep some good wine bottles at home and have them ready for entertaining-  a bottle of chilled white wine, a bottle of chilled bubbles and a bottle of red wine.

4. Add a gourmet, food, wine, travel book to your library

5. Learn more about and join the Slow Food organization

6. Discover a new place, a new food, a new culture

7. Add a new gadget / item to your kitchen, like this oyster glove

8. Take a cooking class or a wine class, in your town or as a fun vacation idea

9. Go and visit a food or wine producer, let food and wine shopping become part of new social life opportunities, and an exchange of experiences.

10 Your turn now;  what are your new year resolutions?

Ten Best Pasta Dishes

by Nancy O’Neill

Just the thought of pasta makes the mouth water! There are so many sizes, varieties and sauces that it truly is difficult to choose just 10. It would seem that the widely held belief that Marco Polo brought pasta back to Italy from China is more myth than fact as there was a mention of pasta in a document in 1250 forty-five years before Polo returned from his adventures.

It would seem the dry variety of pasta as we know it today, originated in the Middle East and was imported into Sicily during the Arab invasions. In fact there are references to pasta in Muslim texts as far back as 1,000ad. On the other hand fresh pasta has been linked to Greece and was probably imported into Italy in a similar fashion. One of the most popular dry pastas is from Gragnano near Naples. During the 1500s this town was considered to be the home of durum wheat pasta and in the 1750s the city’s administration reorganized the urban layout benefit the drying of maccheroni!

So what is the difference between dry pasta “pasta secca” and fresh pasta “pasta all’uovo”? Well the ingredients for a start. Most dry pastas come from the south of Italy and do not usually contain egg which would perish quite easily in such a hot climate; it’s basic ingredients are ground semolina flour and water which is mix into a paste and pushed through molds of different shapes. It is then left to dry at low temperatures over a few days until all the moisture has evaporated.

Fresh pasta which was traditionally more common in the north and central regions, can be made with different types of flour although the most common is the “00” high gluten flour. Eggs are added to the mixture to create a more malleable, bread-like dough which suits more delicate sauces.

One is not better than the other, although locals who are loyal to their regional variety might disagree, it just depends on the sauces you are going to use or the textures you would like to experience. So, let’s have a look at some of the most popular pasta dishes and how they were developed.

1. Pasta alla Norma

Pasta alla Norma is a typical dish from the Sicilian city of Catania incorporating traditional Mediterranean produce namely eggplant/aubergine. The name was inspired by Nino Martoglio, a Sicilian poet and writer who compared it to Bellini’s masterpiece “Norma” upon tasting the sumptuous dish for the first time.

As with most of the Italian pasta greats, there are very few ingredients, however what makes every Italian pasta dish so tasty is the quality of the produce and the marriage with the right variety of pasta resulting in taste bud-tingling flavors. For this recipe you will need eggplant, ripe flavorsome tomatoes, salted ricotta, garlic, basil, olive oil, salt and pepper. Remember to add salt to the eggplant and allow it to “drain” before cooking to release some of the bitter juices.  Cheap, tasty, easy to make and perfect for vegetarians this delicious but simple dish is a winning crowd pleaser every time.

2. Bucatini all’Amatriciana

This most famous of Roman dishes was so named after originating in the town of Amatrice in the Lazio region. The original recipe was called Gricia (which is still prepared in central Italy) was not tomato based as tomatoes had not been introduced into Italy at that stage.  The recipe as we know it today became very popular in Rome during the 19th century as economic contacts between Rome and Amatrice became stronger.

Ingredients of the classic version vary slightly as the recipes developed depending on the availability of local produce. Guanciale (cheek bacon) is usually used as are tomatoes. Onions have always been included any time I have eaten Amatriciana but do not seem to be favoured in the surrounds of Amatrice. Lashings of black pepper or chilli pepper and pecorino Romano (from Amatrice if you can get it!) are standard also. The pasta choice is usually spaghetti or bucatini (slightly thicker spaghetti). Fresh pasta is not advised for this dish.

This peppery pasta will warm you through after an exhausting day of sight-seeing in the capital and to my mind is the perfect introduction to Roman cuisine.

3. Tagliatelle al Ragù alla Bolognese/Lasagna

Spaghetti Bolognaise is probably the most popular pasta dish outside Italy. However in Bologna, Ragù alla Bolognese is always served with egg tagliatelle which are better for holding the heavy meat sauce. Dating back to at least the 1400s, Bolognaise was originally tomato-less and even today should taste more of meat than tomato sauce. There have been so many variations on this beloved dish that in 1982 the Bolognese delegation of Accademia Italiana della Cucina deemed it necessary to issue the “correct” classic Ragù recipe.

Ingredients: 300 g beef (thin beef skirt is preferable), 150 g pancetta, 50 g celery, 50 g carrot, 50 g onion (notice no garlic), 5 spoons tomato sauce or 20 g triple tomato puree, Half cup of dry white or red wine, 1 cup (250 mL) whole milk, Salt and pepper to taste (notice no herbs). However even the Bolognesi will add sausage, rabbit, chicken or porcini mushrooms to add another dimension. The key to a good Ragù is to cook it slowly for quite a long time; seven or eight hours cooking time is common to bring all the flavors together.

Ragù alla Bolognese is also the basis for Lasagna another well-known and well-loved dish worldwide. In Bologna it is usually made with green lasagne sheets a pasta which incorporates cooked spinach.  There are many theories as to the origins of the dish although the most likely seems to be that a similar dish existed in ancient Greece which was later transferred to the Romans. The ancient Greek word “Lasagnum” refers to a dish or bowl hence the name as we know it today.  The wonderful thing about Lasagna is its versatility. It is delicious with a Ragù as mentioned above but for the veggies amongst us, it is equally tasty with roasted vegetables, wild mushroom or cheese sauce. Recently I had the fortune to taste an artichoke version cooked by my Neopolitan friend’s mother which I have to say has been my favourite so far. I dream of that Lasagna! If you have the opportunity, I highly recommend it.

4. Spaghetti/Rigatoni alla Carbonara

There are many hypotheses for the origins of this well-loved dish. The simplicity of the ingredients could mean that it was an easy dish to make for the charcoal makers “Carbonari” who spent long periods of time in the woods during the year. However the fact that we do not see reference to this dish in Italian cookbooks until after the second World War could demonstrate that it was invented by Roman trattorias to keep the American troops happy using ingredients (eggs and bacon) which was standard issue for the US soldiers.

Even culinary experts cannot agree on the origins so we will probably never know for sure. This not the only debate attached to this most delicious dish! What type of bacon should be used? Should you use the whole egg or just the yokes? Do you add cream? What cheese do you put on top? Most chefs would agree that you must not allow the eggs to overcook as the consistency should be creamy and not scrambled. Classic ingredients would be pancetta or guanciale (cheek) bacon, eggs, black pepper and cheese (pecorino Romano or parmesan). Onions or garlic is usually used too. Add the spaghetti or rigatoni to the bacon which has been cooked in a pan. Turn off the heat and mix in the raw egg allowing the heat to cook the eggs slightly. At the last moment grind a generous helping of black pepper on top and sprinkle with an abundance of cheese. Simply delicious!

5. Ragù Napoletano

Most Italian pasta sauces are ingenious in their simplicity however this cannot be said for Ragù Napoletano. This rich, meaty sauce takes hours to cook and many Neopolitan women cook it overnight getting up regularly to stir it if they want to achieve the desired result. The meat for the sauce is pig ribs/pig roast, guanciale, prosciutto and bacon (in large chunks). Triple tomato concentrate, red wine, onions, garlic, parsley, salt and pepper are also included. It would take more than one paragraph to explain the complete recipe (and probably some type of degree!). However it is extremely important to brown the meat well, cook it ultra-slowly and add the tomato concentrate a little at a time to achieve a rich burgundy red sauce.

Pasta types could be Paccheri (shorter rigatoni tubes) or Strozzapreti, a twisted type of gnocchi whose name literally translates as “Priest-stranglers” after a greedy 18th century priest almost choked to death on them! Top the final dish with a cheese like a mature Caciocavallo Sorrentino to cope with the rich depth of flavor.

Main differences between this Ragù and the Bolognese version are the type of meat used, the size of the chunks and the type of pasta used. Moreover there is no milk in the Neapolitan recipe and an abundance of tomato compared to its northern cousin. Finally the whole pieces of stewed meat from the Neapolitan Ragù are often used as a main course to follow the pasta starter. Two dishes for the price of one (with a lot more work than two dishes involved!). A lot of sweat and dedication is needed but the end result is well worth it! Better still, go to Naples and have one of the experts make it for you!

6. Orecchiette ai Cime di Rapa

Orechiette (little ears) are a home-made pasta most commonly found in Puglia, a region in Southern Italy. The name indicates the shape of the pasta, small, domed, white disks with one smooth side and one rough to hold the sauce. Unlike other fresh pastas, eggs are not usually included in its preparation.  If you drive though Puglia during springtime it is not uncommon to see groups of women, young and old, sitting outside around tables diligently pressing each individual piece of dough into an Orecchietta with their right thumbs and gossiping about the latest happenings in the neighborhood.

This type of pasta probably originated in Provence where a similar pasta is made and then introduced into southern Italy by the Anjous, a French dynasty which dominated Puglia during the 1200s. Nowadays the typical sauce to accompany these delicious “little ears” is made with “Cime di Rapa” a bitter leafy green known as Rapini in English. If you can’t find Rapini, broccoli is a good substitute. Ingredients are rapini (or broccoli), garlic, anchovies, olive oil, Pecorino and toasted breadcrumbs.

7. Pesto alla Genovese

There are many types of pesto in Italy depending on the region you visit and the produce available locally. However the pesto we all know and love is alla Genovese (from Genoa). The prime ingredient for this type of pesto is of course basil which seems to grow very favourably in the Ligurian climate. The name originates from the verb Pestare which means to grind (as in pestle and mortar).

As with most pasta sauces in Italy variations on the same theme differ from family to family. The most common classic recipe is now basil, pine nuts, olive oil, garlic and cheese (Parmigiano Reggiano). Some recipes include other types of nuts. There are two types of pasta associated with Pesto alla Genovese; the fresh Trofie which are a twisted type of gnocchi made with white flour or Trenette which is slightly thinner than Linguine. Nowadays it is quite common to add potatoes and French beans to the recipe especially when using  Trenette which I have to say I find particularly delicious!

8. Vermicelli alla Puttanesca

Due to the name, Puttanesca, many believe this sauce has some type of connection to prostitutes as “Puttana” means just that in Italian. However the name came about one evening in the early 1950s on the island of Ischia in the Gulf of Naples. Architect Sandro Petti was entertaining a group of friends when they asked him to rustle up something to eat as they were absolutely starving. However he told them he didn’t have much left in the kitchen and they would have to go somewhere else to get something to eat. It was very late in the evening and almost impossible to find anywhere open at that time. One of his friends exclaimed ‘Don’t worry Sandro, just make us a “puttanata qualsiasi”’, which roughly translated means a slightly more vulgar version of “any old thing”. Sandro duly threw together a sauce consisting of the very limited ingredients in his larder i.e.  a few tomatoes, olives, capers, garlic, olive oil and some oregano. The recipe today usually includes some anchovies, chilli and parsley.

After the success of the dish that evening, Petti added it to the list of starters on his menu calling it Puttanesca as Puttanata seemed a bit vulgar. The key to this dish is to make a basic Marinara sauce and then add the other ingredients. Tomato should only colour but not dominate the sauce allowing all the other flavours to come through. As is true for Italian cuisine in general, less is more.

9. Ravioli di Ricotta e Spinaci al Burro e Salvia

Merchants in Venice and Tuscany are credited with the earliest mentions of ravioli as far back as the 14th century. Ravioli were even known to the 14th century English population, appearing in an Anglo-Norman vellum manuscript.
There is a multitude of ravioli options on offer (cheese, mushroom, meat) without including their cousins, tortelloni, tortellini etc… One of my absolute favourites is Ravioli di Ricotta e Spinaci al Burro e Salvia. The key to this dish in my opinion is the consistency of the fresh pasta, neither too firm or too sloppy and a generous amount of Parmigiano Reggiano heaped on top just before serving.

The ravioli are stuffed with ricotta, spinach, some Parmigiano Reggiano, an egg, salt and pepper. While the sauce is made by melting about 40g of unsalted butter in a pan taking care not to burn or split. Add 8-12 sage leaves and allow to infuse for a few minutes on a very low heat. The perfect result is if the sage crisps slightly adding texture to the overall dish. Toss the ravioli in the sauce and grind some black pepper on top. Take off the heat, serve and spoon on lots of Parmigiano. Delicate, subtle and mouth-wateringly good!

10. Spaghetti Aglio, Olio e Peperoncino

Considered to traditionally come from the Abruzzo region, this cheap and cheerful dish is now popular the length and breadth of the boot. As there are very few ingredients (garlic, olive oil, chilli, parsley and spaghetti) it is usually the first dish young Italians learn to make. It is also the dish that will most often be offered to you “facciamo due spaghetti” if you end up back at an Italian friend’s house after a night on the beer!

The sauce is made by sautéing minced or pressed garlic in olive oil (about 5 tbsp) on a low heat to avoid burning. Add dry or fresh chilli to give it a good kick and add the cooked spaghetti to the pan once the oil has absorbed all the flavours and toss well. Mix in chopped flat leaf parsley, serve and grate  Pecorino or parmesan cheese over the top or some toasted breadcrumbs which is common in the southern regions. Simply scrumptious!

Ireland is truly one of Europe’s most beautiful countries with miles of virgin countryside, pristine coastline, charming fishing villages and quaint hamlets.

While there are dozens of great little villages, we of course have our favorites. Herewith, enjoy reading about some of the Most Beautiful Villages of Ireland…

ADARE

Adare in Co. Limerick has long been regarded by many as Ireland’s prettiest village. Originally belonging to the Fitzgeralds its present manicured gardens and thatched cottages owe themselves more to the Earls of Dunraven who restored the village in the early 1800s after having almost been completely destroyed due to the numerous battles which took place there during the 16th century wars. Many of the thatched dwellings dotted around the village were once workers’ lodgings which have recently been converted into cosy little cafes and restaurants with “The Inn Between” probably being the most popular.

However this quaint little village is not only well-loved for being as picturesque as a painting, there is also plenty to see and do. Nearby stands the award winning 5 star Adare Manor with a championship golf course, top class equestrian centre, luxurious spa, fine-dining eateries, immaculately sculpted gardens and two evocative ruins all housed within its 900 hectare parkland. Around the village 13th-15th century priories, abbeys and castles have been well-preserved and are definitely worth a visit. Of particular interest is the Foynes Flying Boat Museum which educates the visitor about the strategic position of the Shannon region when flying was still in its infancy during the 1920s and 1930s. Vintage cars can also be hired to experience the thrill of taking in the beautiful surrounding countryside in pure style and elegance.

ARDARA

The attractive village of Ardara is renowned as the weaving capital of Donegal with tweed shops and woollen mills abound.  Settled in a cove along the rugged coastline, the fine sandy strands and spectacular seascapes are the perfect backdrop for the awe-inspiring sunsets which can only be found on the west coast of Ireland. Looking out to sea from this pretty, unspoilt hamlet, it is easy to understand why so many Irish songs are filled with heartache at having to leave these beautiful shores.

Nothing could be more pleasing to the senses than a leisurely drive along the scenic route from Ardara to Glencolumbkille over Glengesh Pass, a wild and deserted landscape of glens, moors and lakes. Ireland is famous for its hospitality but the people of County Donegal go that extra mile. Cosy Nancy’s bar in the centre of Ardara is famous for its sumptuous house chowder, heart-warming Irish coffee, an exceptional pint of Guinness and intimate traditional music sessions. If you want to experience “real Ireland” we highly recommend Ardara and if you happen to be in the county at the end of August, do not miss the three-day Donegal Food Festival in Donegal town.

ARDGLASS

Most visitors to Northern Ireland head straight to the Antrim Coast however the rest of the country has plenty to offer those who prefer to stay off the beaten track. Overlooking the Irish Sea, Ardglass has been a fishing village for millennia which today produces some of the best herring in the country. The peninsula surrounding the village is just as picturesque and the Mountains of Mourne and the Mourne Coast to the south and Stragford Lough to the north are simply stunning.

Ardglass has been associated with St.Patrick and it was already a well-established port when the Anglo-Norman invader John de Courcey established his headquarters just a few miles away in Downpatrick taking advantage of the easy to defend harbour which was a must in those days of constant conflict. It then became an important port for the London Trading Company during King Henry VIII’s reign and later came under the ownership of the Fitzgeralds, Earls of Kildare. The Earls went on to build Ardglass Castle where the golf club house now resides and which offers a fine-dining eatery; a great place to savour and sample the local produce. For more casual but equally impressive dining, historical and award-winning Curran’s Bar offers a variety of tantalising dishes including Fresh Ardglass Garlic Prawns, Natural Smoked Haddock, seafood platters and succulent steaks.

ENNISKERRY

Enniskerry located just south of Dublin is also known as the gateway to Wicklow. This picture-postcard Victorian village is the perfect starting point for any tour of “The Garden County”. Nestled in the foothills of the Sugarloaf Mountain, Enniskerry was once part of the Powerscourt Estate and was developed to house the various tenants that worked there. Now it is a very popular little village full of craft-shops, cafes, pubs and art galleries with a pretty clock tower and triangular market square at its centre.

Nature lovers can’t fail to be impressed by what is on offer in and around the hub of Enniskerry. Powerscourt Estate is a gorgeous Palladian style villa which is open to the public all year round and has some of the most spectacular gardens to be found in the whole country. Also within the grounds the magnificent Ritz Carlton hotel is located as well as an extensive golf course. Next door is Powerscourt Waterfall, the highest in Ireland, surrounded by lush parkland and home to a herd of Sika deer. Just a few miles away lies the intriguing and somewhat haunting scenery of The Sally Gap. Stark, dramatic and isolated it is hard to imagine that this remote bog-scape is situated on the outskirts of the capital. For “craic agus ceol” head to Johnnie Fox’s, the highest pub in Ireland, which offers a delightfully traditional ambience, decent steaks and seafood and a Riverdance style Hooley night.

INISTOIGE

Charming and extremely romantic, Inistoige, in County Kilkenny has been the setting for many films due to its quaint village feel,  18th century houses, tree-lined square and superb hillside scenery. In fact Mia Farrow claims it is her favourite place in Ireland. Lying in the Nore Valley at the foothills of the imposing Woodstock Estate, Inistoige is a very popular romantic getaway for a lot of Irish couples. The village was originally a Viking settlement and is steeped in history. Above the river are the remains of a Bailey castle and a Norman motte.

County Kilkenny is not only well-renowned for its ale of the same name, there are some cracking restaurants, cafes and farmer’s markets in the county too. In Inistoige try The Motte, an 18th century lodge run by award-winning chef Rodney Doyle offering a very interesting menu consisting of local fish, wild game and beef. The Motte also organises cookery courses too.

There are many beautiful, easily accessible paths in and around the village to wander along and enjoy the relaxing atmosphere. Meander along the wide and hypnotic river, explore the splendid gardens and forests at Woodstock Estate or take a picnic to the riverbank beside the gorgeous 10 arched bridge spanning the River Nore.  Anyone looking to ignite a spark or rekindle an old flame cannot help but be seduced by the charms of Inistoige!

KENMARE

Picturesque Kenmare (“Little Nest”) on the Ring of Kerry and at the mouth of the River Sheen was founded by Cromwell’s surveyor general in 1670, an extremely important period in Ireland’s history. Later in 1775 it was his descendent, the first Marquess of Landsdowne who commissioned the neat stone facades and decorative plasterwork on display today. During the time of the Potato Famine, nuns from St. Clare’s convent introduced lacemaking as a means for local girls to make a small living and Kenmare is now renowned for its intricate designs and traditional lace.
Kenmare is surrounded by breath-taking hills and mountains not to mention the infamous Killarney National Park with Ireland’s highest peak, Carrantuohill rising majestically to the north.

The village is an excellent base for exploring the Ring of Kerry and the Beara Penninsula and is brimming with gourmet eateries. Kenmare Bay salmon, succulent local lamb and beef, creamy dairy produce and artisan breads, pastries and preserves are just some of the delicious delicacies to be found in and around Kenmare. For fine-dining in stunning surroundings the Sheen Falls hotel nestled in amongst woodland and waterfalls is very popular and for elegant seasonal produce in the heart of Kenmare, Packies Restaurant is also a must.  The luxurious Park Hotel then has a delicious lakefront setting, a fab spa and has the best whiskey sommelier in Ireland. When it comes to enjoyable activities, sightseeing, cruising on the bay or indulging in gourmet cuisine, Kenmare does not disappoint.

KILMORE QUAY

Kilmore Quay is a tiny fishing village with a bustling seaport in County Wexford. Quintessential white-washed, thatched cottages line the streets and look out over a sandy beach to the Saltee Islands, Ireland’s largest bird colony. Trips can be made out to the privately owned islands during fine weather from the village and there is also an interesting maritime museum on a lightship moored in the harbour. Within walking distance of the village is Ballyteigue Burrow nature reserve, a beautiful sand-dune system perfect for a leisurely stroll on a fine afternoon.

Life in Kilmore Quay revolves around the sea with angling and diving playing a prominent role in the locality.  For foodies there is a bountiful array of seafood including mackerel, bass, cod, bream, Pollock and skate and a seafood festival is held here every summer with fresh fish on offer every day, family activities and lots of live music. At other times of the year, the best place to indulge your love of fresh seafood is at The Silver Fox seafood restaurant where a vast variety of delicious and reasonably priced fresh fish dishes are yours for the taking.

KINSALE

“Gourmet Capital of Ireland” probably says all a serious foodie needs to know about the pretty town of Kinsale in west Cork. Located on one of Ireland’s most beautiful rivieras, Kinsale has featured prominently in history since the 1300s. In 1601 a British victory against Irish and Spanish allies in the Battle of Kinsale led to the exodus of Irish royalty known as the Flights of the Earls. Many glorious cliff-tops are dotted along this coast and just south of the town lies The Old Head of Kinsale where a ruined castle looks out to where the Lusitania was sunk by a German submarine in 1915. Steeped in history it may be, however these days Kinsale is internationally renowned for its gourmet fare.

The multitude of eateries offer local produce in various guises and the town hosts the annual Bollinger Food Festival in October which attracts visitors from far and wide. County Cork truly is a haven for gastronomes of all types. From Murphy’s brewery (main competitor of Guinness), the Jameson Heritage Centre, Clonakilty black pudding, the outstanding smokehouses of Frank Hederman in Cobh and Anthony’s Ummera in Timoleague to a variety of superb cheeses like Gubbeen and Ardagh Castle. Competition is so stiff in Kinsale that the majority of its dining establishments are of the highest calibre; the fun part is indulging in as many delicious experiences as possible and choosing your own personal favourite! Having said that, we do recommend at least one meal at the legendary seafood restaurant called Fishy Fishy; an institution in this haven of fine food.

CASA ARTUSI- Trip Report, Emilia Romagna Food and Wine Site Inspection

by Nancy O’Neill

Casa Artusi was set up to celebrate the life and work of the man considered to be The Father of Italian Cuisine, Pellegrino Artusi, born in 1820 to a relatively wealthy family in Forlimpopli. Seeing as the Artusi family were merchants and grocers, they fled to Florence (the heart of trade at that time) in 1851 to escape the terror and violence inflicted upon them by a notorious bandit of the area. In Florence he continued to develop his career in trade however his attentions were more and more focused on his true passions; writing and gastronomy. Living in such a cosmopolitan city, Artusi was exposed to cultures and cuisines from all over Italy and indeed all over Europe.

He started to collect recipes from Northern and Central regions while travelling for work all of which were tested by his own cooks Francesco Ruffilli and Maria (Marietta) Sabatini and in 1891 he published “Science in the Kitchen and the Art of Eating Well” a collection of recipes and a cookery handbook. The book was a great success and became a traditional wedding present for the bride of Italian families. Subsequently,  women from all over the country started to send Artusi recipes which their families had been using for generations resulting in the 14 updated versions being published until he died in 1911.

Marietta worked alongside him throughout his later life and to honour her dedication there is now an organisation called The Mariette Association in Italy which was set up to research, collect and log all types of information about Italian cuisine especially that of the Emilia Romagna region. You can even contact them with your own family’s heritage of Italian recipes. At the cookery school Mariettas are called in to help during the pasta and bread making classes only.

However, Casa Artusi is not only a cookery school. This modern, state of the art building located in what was once an old convent, also houses a library, a museum, a restaurant and a wine cellar/shop the latter run by Jamila Khaled, the resident sommelier. On show in the museum there is a beautiful collection of gastronomy based literature both modern and old plus a vast range of Artusi’s writings shown off in glass display cases.

The cookery school offers a variety of different private and group courses for all levels from beginners to professionals. The light, airy kitchen is decked out with 20 individual cooking stations with plenty of room to move about. While I was there I had the opportunity to part-take in a Piadina making class. Piadina is a delicious flat bread traditionally found and eaten in Romagna. With my “Marietta” Adele at my side talking me through each step I was able to make my very own Piadine in less than 15 minutes. The recipe is a simple, white flour dough which unlike most other Italian breads is not left to rise but cooked straight away on a flat non-stick pan like a pancake. Traditionally specially designed terracotta dishes were used to make Piadine which we also tried during the demonstration however I have it on good authority (from “Marietta” Adele) that the Piadina tastes better from the non-stick pan as it doesn’t dry out so much.

After our hands-on class we tucked into our own fare along with some delicious cold-cuts, preserved vegetables, cheeses and conserves. Of particular interest were two types of “Savor”, conserves/jams one made with Autumn forest fruits the other with pumpkin and both wonderfully tasty combined on top of the Piadina with Lo Squaquarone, a local fresh cheese similar to Ricotta but more like yoghurt in consistency.  Also on the menu were Pesche Nettarine di Romagna IGP; a local variety nectarine which is this particular recipe was picked while still extremely unripe and green (think slightly larger than an olive) then cooked and preserved in water, vinegar and sugar. Unusual and a little bit strange but exquisite on the palate. All this sumptuous food washed down with light, fruity Sangiovese red wine made for a very satisfactory pay-off after all our hard work slaving over the stove!

An interesting addition to our gourmet culinary tours in Italy.

Contact details:
Casa Artusi
Susy Patrito Silva (Director)
Tel: 0039 (0)543 743 138
Cell: 0039 347 789 2462
info@casartusi.it

Piadina recipe: (makes 4 or 5)

500g white flour
20g salt
70/80g soft lard
8/10g baking powder
Tepid water and kneed well until it forms into a soft, pliable dough.
Roll out 4 or 5 portions to the size a small dinner plate, cook on a non-stick pan (prick dough with a fork) until slightly brown on either side.

More info on our offerings in Emilia Romagna-

Bologna Wine Tours

Balsamic Vinegar Tours

Grand Gourmet Tour

Michelin Starred Restaurants in Ireland

by Nancy O’Neill

The legendary Michelin guide for 2011 has been released with The Republic of Ireland retaining all of their stars and Northern Ireland losing their only one. Sadly, Michael Deane of Deane’s in Belfast lost his star, which he had originally received in 1997, due to an ill-timed burst water pipe and subsequent flooding of the restaurant last year.

Of the six fine dining establishments to be allocated the coveted stars in the Republic, only one, House at The Cliff House Hotel, is outside Dublin. For each of these talented chefs the emphasis across the board seems to be marrying the finest and freshest LOCAL ingredients with expert culinary skill to create utterly sublime dining experiences. Ireland may not be at the forefront of every foodie’s mind but it is certainly getting there.

L’ ECRIVAIN

L’Ecrivain Restaurant, a hidden treasure located in a cute courtyard off Baggot Street in Dublin, is run and owned by accomplished chef Derry Clarke and his wife Sallyanne.  With one Michelin star and having won Best Restaurant Wine list, Best Sommelier and Georgina Campbell’s Restaurant of the year, its fan base seems to stretch far and wide. The restaurant has an established reputation for innovating old-fashioned classics and using top quality seasonal ingredients with a strong emphasis on the freshest, locally sourced seafood.

Inside, the restaurant is small, intimate but in no way cramped with simple crisp white décor and luxuriously rustic wood and brick elements. Menus are refined and well thought through including succulent specialties such as Dublin Bay prawns, Pigeon breast, Organic Salmon or Wild Seabass with divine desserts to indulgently finish off a sublime eating extravaganza.

At L’Ecrivain there is a huge emphasis on hiring highly trained, experienced and unbelievably friendly staff (even by Irish standards!) to look after the diner’s every need; making any visit not only a tantalisingly tasty one but an extremely pleasant one too. Within that staff, award-winning sommelier Martina Delaney has compiled a delightful wine list combining classic favourites and exciting new finds. Highly recommended.

109A Lower Baggot Street, Dublin

GUILBAUD’S- Restaurant Patrick Guilbaud

French born proprietor Patrick Guilbaud, originally from Cognac, is the only person to currently hold two Michelin stars in Ireland. His restaurant is located in an 18th century Georgian townhouse (think colourful Dublin doors!) beside the beautiful five-star Merrion hotel over-looking the hotel’s delightful  16th century garden.

The food at this elegant establishment reflects the décor; modern French sophistication and Irish charm using the finest in-season local produce. Signature dishes on chef Guillaume Lebrun’s menu include the Clogher Head Lobster Ravioli and Roast Lacquered Challans Duck. Even the pea soup gets rave reviews!  The Testing Menu is also extremely popular allowing you to try Lebrun’s take on classic Irish dishes.

Equally impressive is the wine list which includes wines that Mr. Guilbaud has been collecting from all over the world since 1981. Finding the perfect wine to accompany your meal will not be difficult however the vast array could throw the more indecisive amongst you into a quandary. Fear not, highly accomplished sommeliers are on hand to take you through each offering in great detail. Why not combine a delicious dinner at Restaurant Patrick Guilbaud with an overnight stay at luxurious Merrion Hotel. The perfect way to round off any trip to Dublin.

21 Upper Merrion Street-Dublin 2

THORNTON’S

Controversial, acclaimed chef Kevin Thornton won Chef of the Year in 2007 and has previously held two Michelin stars. He is renowned for speaking his mind (probably due to being one of nine children!) and never backs down in the face of adversity. Love him or hate him he is one of Ireland’s most famous and respected chefs. He has worked in the gardens of Cashel Palace hotel, on a farm, in a vineyard and an abattoir all helped to create a vast culinary knowledge base.

Specialities at the restaurant include Roast Suckling Pig with Poitin sauce or Lightly Smoked John Dory with Brunoise vegetables. Vegetarians are well catered for too. Exciting and delightful from the very first bite, the menu changes with the seasons and availability of produce.  Sommelier Paul Young will help you choose a wine to complement each dish from their interesting wine selection.

The dining room, designed by New York architects, is light, airy and modern with crisp white linens, plush décor and large photos from Thornton’s book adorning the walls. There is also a canapé bar where you can enjoy a refreshing glass of wine, taste some exquisite nibbles and soak up the atmosphere without having to make a reservation. Perfect at the end of a long day of sight-seeing and/or shopping!

Thornton’s, 1 Portobello Road, Dublin 6

CHAPTER ONE

Award-winning Chapter One in Dublin city centre went through a vast renovation in 2009 to create a slick and exciting eatery with the main centre-piece being the culinary theatre that is The Chef’s Table. This snug little alcove with its shiny volcanic rock table offers diners the chance to interact with the professional kitchen while indulging in an intimate banquet of modern, robust dishes executed to the highest level using only the highest-quality local, seasonal produce. For a restaurant renovated at the back end of the Celtic Tiger there is none of the pretension one would expect from that era. Dishes are hearty, soulful and well-balanced with the elegance and sophistication one expects from a Michelin starred kitchen without the diner running the risk of leaving the restaurant feeling only half full. Specialities include wild halibut with a blanquette of cockles and mussels, or for the carnivores, loin of venison with blackberry and chocolate ravioli.

As for the wine list, sommelier Ed Jolliffe has chosen a wonderful selection to suit all budgets, careful to compliment the menus without the wines taking centre stage.  And chef and co-owner Ross Lewis is one of Ireland´s most charismatic and innovative foodie personalities. For a divine and indulgent dining experience combining modern Irish cooking with old-fashioned grace and charm a visitor to Dublin cannot beat Chapter One.

18 – 19 Parnell Square, Dublin 1, Ireland. Check out our friends at Good Food Ireland’s wonderful profile on Chapter One here.

BON APPETIT

Bon Appetit overlooks the harbour in Malahide, a quaint and picturesque village north of Dublin City Centre famous for its stunning seascapes, relaxing coastal walks and, of course, Malahide Castle  and peaceful surrounding gardens. The Georgian building housing the Michelin starred restaurant also includes a chic brasserie, trendy cocktail bar and a glitzy wine bar called Le Bon Vin offering tantalising tapa style nibbles and extra special wine tastings.The Restaurant itself is the definition of stylish sophistication and elegance; neutral greys, mochas and creams set off by plush carpets and classy Victorian furniture.

Executive chef at Restaurant Bon Appetit Oliver Dunne was awarded a Michelin Star in 2008. He began his career in Dublin and then worked in London under Gary Rhodes and Gordon Ramsey and was tipped as one of Ireland’s rising stars when he came back to Dublin in the early noughties. Again the seasonal menus focus on locally sourced produce beautifully executed in a contemporary Euro/French style. Signature dishes including Boudin of duck and foie gras with celeriac purée and fresh peas or Fillet of John Dory with new season asparagus, pine nuts and salted grapes are bound to leave even the most avid foodies satisfied. Jean Baptiste, the in-house sommelier, manages an interesting and extensive wine list to complement all the delectable goodies on offer.

No. 9 James Terrace, Malahide, Co. Dublin

CLIFF HOUSE

House at The Cliff House Hotel, Co. Waterford is the most recent restaurant to receive a Michelin accolade and the only Michelin starred eatery based outside Dublin. Located in a beautiful cliff-side boutique hotel (which we have already featured on the Cellar Tours site), the restaurant offers a menu which is exciting, glamorous and slightly off-the-wall. Dutch head chef Martijn Kajuiter has worked under Marco Pierre White and Michel Roux and executes his dishes with passion and flair. He only uses produce sourced from within a forty kilometre radius of the hotel and has a nursery on site to ensure the freshest herbs and vegetables reach your plate. Dishes we recommend are Ardmore Bay Lobster with Broccoli juice and Black Angus Fillet steak with Murphy’s sauce.

Sommelier Anke Hartmann has worked in many Michelin starred establishments over the years with the likes of Gerard Basset and takes her responsibility as sommelier at House very seriously. “I…use my knowledge and professionalism to open the horizon on a confusing wine world and hopefully an unforgettable experience to our guests. Food and wine belong together and add another dimension of pleasure when married to perfection”. Passion, professionalism and originality set off by a back-drop of stunning seascapes; enough said.

Middle Road- Ardmore, Co. Waterford

Why not visit these Michelin starred restaurants in Ireland on a private chauffeured gourmet tour?

Tara Stevens, author of  Clock Book: Recipes from a Modern Moroccan Kitchen, was kind enough to give us her favorite tips on the best places to stay and dine in Fez and Marrakech in Morocco for foodies who enjoy a bit of pampering:

Alleyway - Photo Cred: Julius Honor

In Fez:

Obviously you’ve got to go and eat at the Café Clock and have a camel burger. They also do wonderful, traditional cooking classes with Souad (and sometimes me if I’m in town).

Fez Food is run by a friend of mine Gail and it’s a great way to get deeper into the culinary culture of Morocco. She does foodie tours of the medina, but also gastronomic adventures out into the hinterland. Couscous making in a remote Atlas village for example, and visits to the Meknes wineries.

The Jardin des Biehn is sensational. The ‘Caliph’s Suite’ is something else complete with private Turkish baths. And it’s keenly priced for a place of its caliber.

Dar Seffarine is the most beautifully restored traditional house I can think of anywhere in Morocco, and its owners Kate and Alla are gorgeous. Alla is an Iraqi architect, Kate’s a Norwegian photographer and their attention to detail and authenticity are second to none.

In Marrakech:

I always stay at Riad Tizwa because it feels like home to me. The owners Dan and Richard Bee make you feel like one of the family, its intimate, laid-back and brilliantly positioned on the edge of the medina so you can get in and out easily.

Riad Due is a great example of the sort of contemporary boutique that is starting to spring up around Morocco. It’s a light take on traditional Arabic design, a bit more irreverent and fun. Another of my favourite places to stay.

La Mamounia of course is the grande dame of Moroccan high-end hotels and since Jacque Garcia’s careful renovation is looking dazzling. Some great modern Moroccan cooking in one of the restaurants too.

If you want to get away from it all Dar JL is a handful of exclusive riads in La Palmaraie and is perfect for living out an Arabian Nights style fantasy. When I stayed I didn’t leave once.

Harem is an extraordinary getaway for women with a focus on food therapies, yoga, meditation and basically time for oneself away from the demands of work and family. It is located in the private residence of a well-known French artist, so the kind of place you don’t get to see very often.

You’ve got to spend an evening at the night market in Jemma al Fna to sample Moroccan street food.

For lunch I like Terrasse de Epices . Its nicely put together modern Moroccan fare on a contemporary designed Moroccan rooftop. They have a sister café nearby too.

Dar Cherifa is good for a traditional fare and cultural events. The owner Abdellatif owns a handful of pretty riads too.

Azar is good for a night out. The design is spectacular, by a young local designer, the food is Lebanese and there’s a great nightclub underneath for a bit of a boogie.

I also like the rooftop at Le Bab for drinks.

Café Clock: recipes from a modern Moroccan kitchen is available priced 15 pounds at amazon.co.uk

Tara Stevens, renowned travel writer, published author, foodie and general bon vivant and a good friend of ours no less, spoke to us about her newest book, Clock Book:  Recipes from a Modern Moroccan Kitchen.

Tara Stevens, Photo Cred: Julius Honor

1.    Tara, what first attracted you to Morocco?

It was total chance actually. I was at the Hay book festival in Granada and met an author there called Tahir Shah (The Caliphs House, In Arabian Nights). He told me about this guy who’d abandoned a successful career at the Wolseley in London to come an open a café selling camel burgers in Fez. I was fascinated and booked a ticket to go take a look about a week later. The whole place got under my skin pretty much immediately – going into the Fez medina for the first time is like stepping back 2000 years – and it becomes almost like an addiction. If you like it, it calls you. You have to keep going back.

Photo Cred: Julius Honor

2.    Tell us about the cuisine there.

What I loved so much about discovering food in Morocco is that there is still so much that hasn’t been discovered. We all know about tagines and couscous, but that’s just the tip of the iceberg. There is so much variety and diversity, but it’s little known outside of certain regions, or even towns and villages, and most of it you need to eat in somebody’s home. Some of it is reserved for special occasions like r’fisa – a chicken, lentil and fenugreek stew that is served to women after they’ve given birth, and sometimes as a special meal mid-way through Ramadan.

Then there’s the street food, again lots of obvious stuff such as you see in the night market in Jemma el Fna in Marrakech, but also lots of less obvious things like the hot, boiled snails or steamed chicken stuffed with coriander scented vermicelli that are both specialties of Fez. There’s a guy called Tami near the Café Clock who does the most amazing beans (lobia) and lentils, but they are not on his menu. You have to ask for them, but they are always bubbling away on his stovetop and I often stop there for lunch.

For me Moroccan cuisine is one that is on the brink of discovery, rather than something well established and that makes it incredibly exciting.

Fennel, orange and caper salad, Photo Cred: Julius Honor

3.    What are your favorite Moroccan ingredients and what are they used for?

That’s a difficult question. I love the spices and nowadays it’s the thing that everybody asks me to bring back for them, but there are certain ‘guidelines’ you need to consider. For example I never buy the spices that are heaped up in gloriously pretty cones on the street. After that much exposure to the air and sun they taste of sawdust. The best spices are freshly ground in the Herbalists found in all but the tiniest of towns. Generally I buy them whole and grind them at home though.

I find something new every time I go to Morocco. Last time I was in Fez I was at my regular herbalist .  I was sold some extraordinary lemon cumin. The cumin is planted between lemon trees and picks up the scent and oils. The cinnamon is also fabulous, as is the Fenugreek, which is almost impossible to get in Spain.

There is virtually no dish in Morocco that doesn’t come with its own set of spices. It has a richness and almost regal appeal to it that we lack in Europe. Most commonly they’ll be cumin, paprika, dried ginger (never fresh), turmeric, coriander and fenugreek.

I also love the preserved lemons (I have three recipes for different types in my book), which add a distinct, unmistakably Moroccan flavour to dishes like the chicken tagine with preserved lemons and olives. There really is no substitute for preserved lemon and that makes it very special.

Similarly, smen is an aged, fermented butter that is used in lots of Moroccan dishes. It’s a little bit musky and cheesy and not to everyone’s taste (I’m not mad about it when used with a heavy hand), but in the hands of great cook it is sensational. At the Souk Kaat Smen (the honey and smen souk) the special breakfast is a hot baked khobz (bread) smeared with honey and smen. It’s eye-opening and something everyone should try if they go to Fez.

Finally, the Argan Oil from just south of Agadir is pretty special. Even in Morocco it’s very expensive, and it’s a bit like a walnut or almond oil in taste. Nutty, a little sweet almost like vanilla, and you can use it all on its own as a dressing. You don’t need to add anything else. I have a recipe in the book that combines oranges, fennel, capers and Argan oil, but at home I use it on all sorts of things. It’s also a wonderful dinner party trick: serve hot bread with Argan for dipping instead of olive oil. People are always wowed by it.

So it’s all these amazing discoveries that make Moroccan food what it is, and I’m discovering new things every single time I go there. Because for the most part you can’t get camel meat, or smen, in Western markets, it remains quite a secret cuisine too. I like that.

Tomato, mint and goat´s cheese salad, Photo Cred: Julius Honor

4.    Is Moroccan cooking similar in any ways to Spanish cooking or Mediterranean cuisine in general?

Certainly in Spain there are lots of crossovers. The Moors occupied the Iberian peninsula for around 800 years so their culinary influences continue to be very prevalent. In Catalonia for example where I live, you get lots of dishes that combine meat and fruit like the classic goose and pears. That’s something that’s almost certainly grown out of Moroccan tagines, and Andalucia, particularly in terms of their cakes and pastries, uses lots of Moroccan flavours.

All round the Mediterranean rim you get variations on a theme – everyone has got some kind of bean dish for example, some sort of ‘hummus’ whether its made with chickpeas or fava beans, the Moroccan soup harira and the Italian minestrone aren’t worlds apart, but there’s always something that defines each country or region. That’s when it gets interesting.

5.    Is quality wine made in Morocco?

Curiously enough it is. And more to the point it’s getting better all the time, though the truth is there’s an awful lot of rubbish too.

There are two key wine growing areas, the biggest being just outside of Meknes (about an hour from Fès) where you’ll find a number of Bordeaux winemakers who basically got sick of the stifling rules and regulations and came to Morocco largely so they could dance to the beat of their own drum. I like this maverick approach – it’s very Moroccan in many ways – there are no rules, so they plant what they want, make it how they please and they are having some really interesting results.

One winery that stands out in particular is Volubilia and a winemaker named Christophe at the Domaine de la Zouina. It’s a Hacienda style property with 155 hectares of vineyards in the middle Atlas, while Christophe is, as my friend Gail at Fez Food puts it: ‘a farmer with mud on his boots, soil in his blood and wisdom of one who lives daily with the challenges, rewards and setbacks Mother Nature offers.’

He makes a sensational gris (my wine of choice in hot Moroccan summers) and the kind of reds that would get Robert Parker salivating. Boozy fruit bombs that keep you warm on cold winter nights.

6.    Your new book “Clock Book: Recipes from a Modern Moroccan Kitchen” is gorgeous, how did it come about?

When I went to meet Mike (the man making the camel burgers in Fez) I immediately decided to do a story on it. It was completely on spec, but I thought it was a no brainer. His chef, Tariq, took me deep into the medina to meet the camel butchers, they made their ‘secret, aphrodisiac’ kefta mix, we took them back to the Clock and cooked camel burger together. It was a real surprise. Lean meat, a great flavour vehicle rather than something strongly flavoured in and of itself, tender, and held its shape really well. In fact, I can’t think of a more perfect burger meat.

Clock Book: Recipes from a Modern Moroccan Kitchen

I did the story and sold it, amazingly, to Conde Nast Traveler. I thought maybe it was a bit off the wall for them, but they really liked it. After the article came out in February 2009, Mike called me and said, ‘we want to do a cookbook, and we’d like you to do it.’ So that was that really, I started going to Fez regularly to research recipes for the book.

7.    What were your main inspirations (people, places, dishes) for the book?

Well, first and most importantly the team at Café Clock. Mike (owner), Max (manager), Tariq (chef) and Souad (chef) especially were supremely open in letting me come in for weeks at a time, observe, ask endless questions and throw in my own two cents worth from time to time. They also sourced recipes for me that are not served at the Clock – like the r’fisa – that I wanted to include, guided me through the markets, introduced me to stallholders and basically became my Moroccan family in many ways.

We created quite a lot of new recipes especially for the book and a lot of these came from street food that I saw on my travels. Many of the dishes I recreated back home, so they are inspired by rather than 100% authentic – the Moulay Idriss ginger lemon chicken is a good example. And the oven roasted tomatoes tossed in preserved lemon and served as a salad with mint and goats cheese was largely a result of seeing all of these things in the medina one summer morning and putting them together.

I love that Morocco is a still a culture of public ovens so you take your bread to the ferran, and you might take a terracotta urn – a tangia – filled with spiced meat to cook slowly in the embers of the hammam for several hours while you go about your business. I’ve tried to adapt this slow cooking method for western kitchens too.

Finally I took inspiration from other countries and cultures. My version of harira (the classic Moroccan soup) is served with big handfuls of herbs and lemon wedges as pho is in Vietnam.

It’s a fresh, contemporary take on traditional dishes and that really is what the book is all about. On the whole it’s quick, easy, light and bright. I realize that most people don’t have hours to spend in the kitchen so most of the recipes can be done in about 30 minutes, or at least can be prepared in 30 minutes and then forgotten about in the oven for a few hours.

Cafe Clock, Photo Cred: Julius Honor

8.    One Moroccan dish you couldn’t live without?

I’m addicted to b’sarra – the local split pea or broad bean soup – that is traditionally eaten for breakfast. There’s a stall I go to in Fez near the Bab Boujloud that does a great one. It’s served in rough terracotta bowls with khobz and bowls of ground chilli, cumin and argan or olive oil, for sprinkling on top. Nothing sets you up for a busy day quite so well.

I’m a fan of street food anywhere in the world. There is a chickpea pie that comes out on wooden carts at completely random times through the medina (I’m still desperately searching for the recipe for it), I already mentioned the steamed chicken stuffed with vermicelli, which I like as a sandwich from a hole-in-the-wall drizzled with chilli sauce if I don’t have much time. If I do have some spare time the Café Amal, near where my little house is, does sensational spit roast chicken stuffed with coriander and chilli paste. They push it right in under the skin and serve it with chips and a yogurt dressing. I have it at least once a week when I’m in town (now the book is finished, I’m working on the renovation and planning my next book – or actually there’s three of them bubbling away in my mind).

Tara, we are planning our trip over to Fez!

See Tara´s Insider Tips on where to eat and sleep in Fez and Marrakech, Morocco here.

Interview with Alessandro Fenino, Pievalta Winemaker and Tre Bicchieri Winner

By Simona Piccinelli, Italy Specialist

It’s a little weird when the guy you consider to be like a little brother after being roommates for years wins one of Italy’s most important and prestigious wine awards. So I was amazed and delighted to congratulate my “little bro” Alessandro Fenino when he won the coveted  Three Glasses (Tre Bicchieri) Award from Gambero Rosso with his Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi wine he produces at the Pievalta estate in the beautiful Castelli di Jesi wine appellation, in the Marche region.

So an interview with the guy you made fun of for the way he did the dishes, whose father saw you tipsy, whose wedding moved you almost to tears cannot be formal. We had this chat after a ginormous lunch of frog legs, paired with too much vino.

1. Alessandro, tell us about how you came to be a winemaker?

I am from Milan, which might be famous for its Duomo, panettone and fashion week, but not for sure for its wine production! I chose oenology at college, because I was interested in a job allowing me to live in beautiful, pleasant and quite location and … because I’ve always loved to drink wine! During college with an internship and after graduation, I’ve worked in some wineries, until I was offered to start a new project and to create a new winery in the Marche region. That’s how Pievalta was born and how I became winemaker, agronomist, vine-dresser, cellarman, tractor driver, general manager …

2. How do organic and natural wines taste compared to non organic wines?

In my opinion there are two big differences. First one is that wines made from organic grapes have a fuller and richer taste and you can taste in their texture the minerality of their terroir, compared to non organic wines of the same appellation. Secondly, they have less sulfites and this makes them more pleasant to drink and more digestible (no headache the next morning!). Both things let organic wines be drunk in an easier way and be paired better with food. They are not wines which try to be the main and leading character at the table, but rather to accompany and enhance the meal.

3. What kind of traditional winemaking methods do you use?

What do you mean by “traditional”? I think organic agriculture and winemaking consistent with it are more innovative than anything else in the modern wine making scene! I produce wine, using wild yeasts, but I also use select yeasts which don’t produce sulfites. We make harvest by hand and press grapes immediately, then we let the must decant for an entire night and the day after we take away lees and we move the must to vinification tanks. We use stainless steel tanks to guarantee max hygiene and not to ruin our work in the vineyards with faults given by a dirty cellar (who some call typical aromas!) I’ve been trying vinification in amphoras for many years, but I haven’t got satisfying results for my standards yet.

4. Do you find that organic wines have had a bad reputation, or not been seen as “serious wines” by critics in the past, and is this changing?

This is changing for sure, thanks to many big and well known wineries which turned to organic production, persuaded that organic is a synonymous with good wines expressing their terroir at their best. There are still people saying they don’t believe in organic wine production, but in my opinion this is due only to prejudices and ideology. Anyway I am convinced that the bad reputation organic wines had 10 years ago doesn’t exist anymore and it is credit of all winemakers who are committed to improving their wines .

5. What are the benefits of organic wines to our health and the environment?

Organic wines have many health benefits. As organic wines have less sulfites, they are more digestible and don’t cause headache. Furthermore, they don’t any pesticides residuals, not even those allowed by law, so organic wines don’t contribute to chemicals build-up in our bodies. It has been scientifically proved that organic fruits contain more anti-oxiders than non organic fruits and that is true also for grape and so for wine. From an environmental point of view, organic wines can be seen as a real revolution! Soil is no more poisoned with weed killers and  chemical fertilizers, which pollute water bearing stratum and rivers and kill soil micro fauna. Soil is richer in humus, so it better holds back rainwater and this helps to prevent hydrological instability.

6. What is your favorite wine to sip slowly and enjoy on these chilly early spring nights?

Among the wines I produce I enjoy is San Paolo, a Verdicchio Castelli di Jesi Riserva. It has intense and complex aromas, it is mineral, fruity with hints of citron and candied fruit, you can smell spices and saffron. On the palate,  it is very well balanced, soft but with very good acidity.

7. What made you choose the Marche wine region, what excited you?

I could spend hours talking about what struck me about Marche and still couldn’t exhaust the subject, as every day I find new reasons to love this region: the beauty of the landscape, the sea, the sudden changes of weather, the unique light, the infinite gentle hills, a place where Nature and Man’s work are still well balanced.

8. What is unique about the Marche, what can you find there in terms of terroir, winemaking techniques and methods that you can´t find in other places??

I think that the most interesting characteristic of Castelli di Jesi wine region is the ancient local grape, Verdicchio. It is perfectly acclimated to a terroir which is very different in terms of soils, altitudes and exposures. One grape for thousands different performances.

9. Which appellations, or general wine producing areas of Marche are your personal favorites and which of the local grape varietals do you enjoy most?

Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi is the most important appellation in the whole region and in my opinion also the most interesting one, producing one of the best white wines of Italy. Among red wines, I love Rosso Conero and Montepulciano grape.

10. What do you think the pros and cons of visiting Marche are and would you suggest it as a destination for wine lovers?

Marche is a great Italian wine region to discover, it is still authentic and not packed with tourists and you will find plenty of very hospitable people. It offers picturesque villages, medieval towns, evocative countryside, harmonious landscape, fabulous local cuisine (from sea and land, home made and rustic or high end and refined) not to mention wines and gourmet products you will fall in love with. Last but not least, it is far less expensive than other wine regions, like Tuscany. The cons are that there are very few luxury and big hotels with many facilities, rather than simple and cozy ones. And I gained 7 kilos since I live here, because the food is too good and too abundant

Wine Tours and Tastings in the Loire Valley

By Simona Piccinelli

The Loire Valley is a sinuous strip of vineyards running along the mighty Loire river in the heart of France, from the Massif Central all the way to the Atlantic Ocean. This beautiful region was declared a UNESCO World Heritage site in 2000  thanks to its beautiful landscape, gripping history (since Charles VIII moved here, it has been home to the French aristocracy) and literature (Rabelais, Balzac and Alain Fournier were all born here), lavish chateaux, historic towns and villages. We recently had the chance to go visit the region on site inspection and herewith some notes and photos from our trip.

We took a trip to the wine country to learn about the more than 60 wine appellations (AOC) of the Loire Valley, from Sancerre to Nantes: 7 days, 750 km, 21 wineries, 14 restaurants, from Michelin starred to cozy bistros, 10 chateaux: a tough job, but someone had to do it

Photo credit: theeuropeanwinetable.blogspot.com

First stop was Sancerre, home of the same named great white wine, the greatest expression of Sauvignon Blanc. The appellation was created in 1936 (for white wine; for reds and rosés then it was later in 1959) and there are fourteen communes eligible for the appellation. One of them is Chavignol, better known for its famed goat cheese (Crottin de Chavignol). Here you can find the Domaine Henri Bourgeois estate. The Bourgeois family has produced wine for 10 generations; today, it is managed and run by the exuberant Mr. Jean Marie Bourgeois, who increased the estate vineyards up to 65 hectares and also launched a new winery in Marlborough, New Zealand (another Sauvignon Blanc hotspot). His detailed attention to the different terroirs can be easily found in all of his Sancerres. One of our favourite wines was La Bourgeoise, made with 50 year old vines.

Another very interesting wines estate  in the area is Daniel Chotard , in Crazancy en Sancerre.

After a quick stop in Gien, famous for its ceramics – and in Orléans – liberated from the English by Jeanne d’Arc in 1429 – we arrived in Blois, home town of Louis XII. We enjoyed a nice walk through the mediaeval cobble stoned alleys and a visit to the Blois castle. It is one of the most important castles in Loire Valley and it features 3 different architecture styles, one for each wing built by different kings: gothic for Louis XII, renaissance for François I and baroque for Gaston d’Orléans.

Finally lunch time!!! At Michelin starred «Au Rendez- vous des pêcheurs» owner -chef Christophe Cosme impressed us with pike perch with potatoes, celery and foie gras, paired with Les Veilleurs Blanc produced  by Michel Quenioux at Domaine de Veilloux.

We walked thought many vineyards and visited several wineries in this part of the Touraine and Cheverny appellations and we felt in love with an ancient grape: Romorantin. It is a traditional French white grape, that legend says was introduced to the region by King François I.

We particularly loved Romorantin made by Domaine de Huards and by Henri Marrionet. Domaine de Huards started with 4 hectares in 1950 and now owns 35 hectares thanks to vigneron Michel Gendrier’s energy and obstinacy. He produces natural wines, with biodynamic viticulture. So no chemicals at all in the vineyards, no oenological products (except for small doses of sulfites) and the use of natural yeasts in the cellar. We particularly loved the Cuvée François Ier A.O.C. Cour-Cheverny, made with 100% Romorantin grapes, from 50 to 83 years old vines. It has a fresh bouquet, it is rich on the palate and has an excellent balance. Long and elegant after taste.

Henri Marrionet at the is one of the leading wine maker of the region. He loves to work with indigenous grape; in his 47 hectares he planted Gamay (and also a lost variety such as Gamay de Bouze) and Cot (known also as Malbec) as the main red varieties; and then Sauvignon Blanc, Chenin Blanc and Romorantin for the white ones. He planted also some ungrafted vines. His wife and daughter-in-law were excellent hosts, we spent a very delightful and interesting afternoon, walking in the vineyards, talking about their vineyard management and wine making philosophy and tasting their wine range.  We were fascinated by Cepages Oubliés 2008 (100% Gamay de Bouze), Vinifera (ungrafted Cot) and Provignage 2005 (100% Romorantin from pre-philloxera vines).

Our home for these days was Domaine Hauts de Loire, a hunting lodge built in 1860, in the middle of a forest with a private lake. It has a 2 Michelin starred restaurant, run by chef Rémy Giraud, who pampered us with his amazing cuisine and his impressive wine list. We really enjoyed the Veille Vigne 1998 Chateau Gaillard.

Part 2 Coming Soon…

Eating responsibly and deliciously at Trattoria La Madia in Northern Italy

By Simona Piccinelli, Italy Specialist

Imagine a tiny village set amid the Italian hills, 650 meters above sea level, hidden off the beaten track, but only minutes from Lake Iseo and the Franciacorta wine region.

Imagine a cozy place, where hosts Michele and Silvia warmly welcome you like a long lost friend, taking the time to explain to you their food, cuisine and general philosophy about life. Here you are not rushed, and you completely understand the true meaning of conviviality.

Imagine a wine list with a wide choice of local wines, carefully selected by Silvia from small wine producers. The wines are mostly only found in Italy and are offered at amazing prices.

Imagine an impressive cheese selection, from the area, but also from the rest of Italy and France. Michele knows each producer personally (you will find all their details on the menu). He tastes and picks each cheese as he knows well that each one is different and standardization has nothing to do with farmers production.

Imagine a delicious, never banal, local and traditional cuisine, from lakes, mountains and the planes, which have rescued lost and forgotten flavours. A cuisine where you can really taste the terroir, its peculiarities and singularities with a hint of modernization and personalitation.

Malfatti with Bagoss Cheese

Grilled Pigeon with Polenta

Freshwater Fish Fritto Misto

Imagine a restaurant where the industrialization of food (homogeneous, un-seasonal, repeatable) is blessedly absent here and all ingredients come from small farmers, where ZeroMiles food is a reality, where you have producers details of all ingredients on the menu if you want to go and buy directly, or simply know what you are eating. A restaurant which serves only meat from free ranged animals, who had a decent life.

Stop imaging as this place exists! Trattoria La Madia, near Brescia in Northern Italy, is a haven for foodies with a conscience.

And you, do you think eating is an agricultural act?

Do you think your food choices impact on agriculture, on how it is sustainable and ecological?

Do you eat responsibly?

Do you think at yourself as a consumer or a co-producer?

Check out this interesting piece on Eco Literacy by Wendell Berry and we would love to hear your opinion on this topic.