The Val d ‘ Orcia, featured today in the NY Times, is quintessential Tuscany and utterly romantic. Expect dreamy hills studded with cypress trees and ancient farmhouses; a smattering of gorgeous art cities and medieval towns in easy reach (Siena, Pienza, San Quirico D’ Orcia, Montepulciano, Montalcino); world class wine country (Brunello, anyone?); amazing cheese country (this is the land of Pecorino) and supremely atmospheric drives.
If you have not yet had the opportunity to visit this breathtaking region yet, then we cannot recommend it enough! This is also THE destination for special occasions- anniversaries, honeymoons, wedding proposals, family reunions…
A quick guide to the Val d’ Orcia for food and wine lovers:
WHEN TO GO: Autumn is the ultimate time to visit for wine lovers as the vineyards are at their most beautiful, the wineries have a real buzz, the weather is generally still sunny but deliciously fresh (perfect for the region´s rich red warming wines). Winter is very cold but a great time to enjoy the food and captivating landscapes without the stifling summer crowds. Spring is gorgeous.
WHERE TO STAY: You can use a few different places as bases, either in town or countryside. We love the Grand Hotel Continental in Siena for old world charm, the luxury Il Borgo at Castello Banfi (also a wine estate, near Montalcino) and the darling little Palazzo del Capitano in the delicious hamlet of San Quirico d’ Orcia.
WHAT TO DO: Wine tasting is obviously a big pull and many wineries open to the general public like Banfi, Barbi and Poggio Antico (which also has a great restaurant) in Montalcino. For visiting cult wineries (like Casanova di Neri) and more special visits, book a luxury private wine tour in Montalcino or lesser known Montepulciano. The artistic treasures in the towns of Siena and Pienza are also a “must”. Hiring a local art guide is a fantastic way to discover the local anecdotes and secret corners too. Renting a villa for a week in Val d´Orcia and spending quiet days cooking, shopping at local markets, wine tasting and relaxing is also an unforgettable way to enjoy the region to the fullest.
WHAT TO BUY: Rare Brunello, artisan cheeses, wild boar cured ham (prosciutto di cinghiale), Terracotta in Siena: and then fine products from other parts of Tuscany (olive oil from Lucca, hand made masks from Florence, antiques and gold from the countless markets, etc).
It´s Friday and you are day dreaming about where do take your next vacation… here are some images of one of our favorite regions on earth, La Rioja, to inspire you
Enjoy these shots of Rioja´s vineyards, medieval villages, rivers and mountains…
When making a culinary pilgrimage through Spain, Seville is not to be missed. Home to a vibrant flamenco scene and extensive network of tapas bars, Seville is clearly a town of bon vivants. And Sevilleans are not greedy. They are more than happy to share their lust for life with anyone who makes it down their winding cobblestone streets aged by history and heavy with the essence of lives lived to the fullest.
Start your day at the tiny Bar Europa café. Tucked into the corner of the quaint Plaza del Pan, patrons can look out onto passersby as they sip at their café con leche. Sidle up to the long mahogany bar, still part of the original decoration from 1925, and browse the menu of tapas that has secured Bar Europa in Seville’s Ruta de la Tapa.
Continue on to the cathedral. Built upon the foundation of an old mosque it is the third largest church in the world in length but the largest in square meters. Climb the 35 floors to o the top of the minaret and you will be left breathless, not only because of the hike, but the reward: an expansive view of all of Seville.
After a well-deserved siesta, ring in the evening at El Rinconcillo, claimed to be the oldest bar in Seville. Lined with years of wine and vermouth, the decades converge in El Rinconcillo, where hams hang from the ceiling and the waiter jots down your tab on the bar in chalk. Order some wines and share a bowl of salmorejo, a true Andalusian specialty similar to a gazpacho.
Continue your tapas tour to Bar Eslava—a narrow tapas bar with a smattering of tables in the back. Hugely popular, the spot fills up early with dancers, musicians, writers, and the grande dames of old Seville. Be sure to catch the name of your waiter! As long as you address them directly and aren’t scared to be vocal with your orders, a flurry of tapas will come your way. The menu has some of the best tapas in Seville, but the Navajas, or Razor clams, are sure to change your life. Cooked on the grill, with a splash of olive oil and pinch of sea salt, their maritime taste is enhanced with a dab of lemon juice.
But don’t have your last glass just yet! Leave some room for La Carboneria , a flamenco bar hidden behind a red door in the old Jewish district. Enjoy the intimate flamenco shows, and perhaps some impromptu dancing…after all, that is how Seville seduces all her lovers.
Brunch at home can be even romantic than dinner out, and is a wonderful idea for this Valentine`s weekend. But what to make? What wines to serve?
How to make it the perfect Valentine`s Day Brunch?
Begin the late morning with crèpes, rolled with strawberries and freshly whipped cream. You can stir in a chocolate or almond based Italian liqueur to the cream…
Toast with pink bubbly, we adore Pommery Rosé. Add to the feeling of special occasion with beautiful champagne glasses and rose petals on the tablecloth…
Continue with Lobster Bisque, a colorful, beautiful and very romantic dish…
This dish, believe it or not, pairs well with dessert wines such as the fabulous Barsac/Sauternes wines from Château Coutet…
Or, if you don’t want to do sweet wine before red wine, carry on with the champagne!
For the savory main course, how about delicate grilled baby lamb chops with rosemary?
Everybody in Madrid has their Tapas bar- their secret neighborhood hideaway. Whether for a morning coffee, a midday snack, or a late night bottle among friends, madrileños live their lives in their favorite haunts. Here are just ten of our favorite tapas bars in Madrid, to give you a taste. But when you walk through the winding cobblestone streets of Madrid, you will be sure to stumble upon your very own taberna.
As the collaboration between Argentinean mixologist, Diego Cabrera and Sergi Arola, the culinary mastermind behind many of Spain’s great restaurants, Le Cabrera could settle back on their good names, but that would go against this new Gastrobar’s principles. Whether in its boutique tapas or distinct cocktails, Le Cabrera gives top ingredients the limelight. Split into two levels diners can start the evening upstairs with a glass mellow red Terrazgo, and follow up with one of Cabrera’s signature drinks in the downstairs cocktail lounge. Or enjoy the night at the open kitchen’s bar, where you can watch the chefs create the stars that make Le Cabrera shine. Even though head chef, Benjamin Bensoussan, is originally from Marseille his traditional tapas with a twist could fool any Madrileño into believing he was a native. Tiny rolls of potatoes hiding a spicy center and topped with a smooth garlic aioli, are what Le Cabrera calls patatas bravas; a worthy addition to any gourmand’s dictionary.
Calle Bárbara de Braganza 2
Madrid
Tel +34 913 199 457
Rustic yet refined, Matritum is set back from the busy bustle of Cava Baja. Enter into the cozy dining room and watch the dim lighting reflect off of the over 400 wines on display, which the in house sommelier will be more than happy to go guide you through. Treat yourself to one of Matritum’s specialties: pan seared foie with a confit of oven roasted apples and onions or a gratin of scallops in a luscious Cava cream. Better yet, brings friends and join in on a family style serving of patatas bravas with five cheeses.
Cava Alta 17
Madrid
Tel +34 913 658 237
Taberna Agrado
Meaning to please in Spanish, Agrado does everything to stay true to its name. Although only a week old at the time of publishing, the tiny modern taberna tucked in amongst the winding backstreets of Madrid, already has a large following of locals who know to appreciate good customer service. For those in need, the openhearted bartenders are quick to give a wine recommendation, favoring those from their hometown such the 2008 La Vendimia. Drinks are served with crumbled aged Parmesan drizzled with a tart olive oil. If you have come with an appetite Agrado has empanadas de carne with a spicy pebre of onions, pepper, and cilantro, and an excellent list of small dishes focusing on seasonal produce such as the ceviche with ripe mango and crunchy red onions, to please your hunger.
Long lines speak for the popularity of this Cava Baja mainstay. So be sure to arrive early and put down your name for one of the coveted tables. This will give you enough time to browse the chalkboard’s daily specials and skim the crowds for a friendly face. Dim lighting and laughter make it easy to find a conversation and enjoy the homey atmosphere over a glass of dry white Peñedes and their classic tapa of pork loin on a confit of onions.
Calle Cava Baja 30
Madrid
Tel +34 913 650 804
La Perejila
The tiny entrance to La Perejila is easy to miss despite its green color, but sneak a peak inside and the soft breeze of Andalusia will beckon you in. Flamenco memorabilia covers the walls and lends a distinct touch to the colorful nightspot frequented by the La Latina’s bohemians. Saddle up to the bar and toast to the vibrant atmosphere with a glass of Cava. Be sure to try the salmorejo, a deliciously refreshing soup similar to gazpacho, and if you are feeling like something heartier the toast of sobrasada and warm goat cheese with a drizzle of caramel will leave you craving for more and happy you haven’t missed this jewel of a bar.
A total contrast to the sleek dining room, the bar area of la Camarilla with its bistro tables and worn terra cotta tiled floor, is the perfect pit stop on a tour through La Latina. After a morning of scouring antiques at the Rastro market around the corner, enjoy a typical Madrid breakfast of café cortado and toast with tomato and olive oil. Come back at night to pick and choose from the tapas on display, from salmon rolls filled with a scallop béchamel to sautéed mushrooms topped with green pardon peppers. While the night is still young, browse the long list of wines representing every corner of Spain and enjoy a glass while the music continues to play until the early morning.
Come on a weekend and hear a medley of languages bounce off of the beautifully restored marketplace. Crowds of Madrileños and world citizens pulse through the wrought iron stands whittling away the hours with laughter and conversation. Home to small upscale shops by day, the market turns into one big tapas bar at night offering a wide range of delicacies from cured ham, to artisan cheese, olives, almonds, and melt in your mouth seafood tapas. Try the traditional sardine tapa with an unconventional curry sauce, a surprisingly divine combination. The Pinkelton & Wine bar has an excellent red, 2007 CLIO, the perfect way to sip the night away watching as the world passes by the glow of the Mercado.
Plaza de Oriente 3
Madrid
Tel +34 915 415 104
Bar Miguel Angel
Hidden within the entrance to an apartment building, is a white door that takes you down into a cellar filled with small wooden tables. This is Bar Miguel Angel, the secret tip of everyone in the barrio: breakfast joint in the morning, white table dining at lunch, after work hangout for young professionals on weekends. But those who really know stop in between 7pm and 9pm, when the mood is mellow and the tables in the alcove are still free. Following tradition every glass comes with a heaping plate of tapas to choose from. Cured ham on pisto with melted goat cheese, or the ubiquitous tortilla Espanola, the options change everyday but the flavor is consistent.
An institution for over 50 years, Jose Luis has locations throughout Madrid, as well as in Sevilla and Barcelona. But the original is in the prestigious Calle Serrano in Madrid. A fashionable establishment of the 60’s, artists, writers, and professionals were drawn by the ambient and the large variety of tapas. Today’s crowd is a mix of decades of regulars, enjoying drinks at the bar or the daily menu. Try to get a seat at one of the two tables in the bar area to enjoy a casual meal among friends with all the pomp that Jose Luis has retained over the years. The counter offers a broad range of traditional tapas to choose from, be sure to savor a variety to see what makes the Madrileños come back day after day, year for year.
The answer to many Madrileños search for modern, sleek, tapas at a good price, Lateral has several strategic locations throughout Madrid. Take a break from shopping your way down Calle Fuencarral with a medley of tapas at Lateral. But make sure to plan in some waiting time as the young and the fashionable flock here in droves for light dishes with a blast of flavor. Try the rolls of salmon filled with cream cheese and caramelized apples, a warm salad of grilled eggplant, caramelized onions, and goat cheese, or roasted pimientos de pardon with olive oil and sea salt-an emblematic tapa throughout Spain.
At the very last minute, last week I decided to spend a few days in Rome with my friends, to visit the amazing exhibition Bacon and Caravaggio at the Galleria Borghese , waiting for the great Caravaggio exhibition at Scuderie del Quirinale to celebrate the 400th anniversary of the great artist’s death.
Having a very full schedule with art, churches and museums, we didn’t have much time to enjoy sit-down restaurants, so we decided to follow Mario Batali’s advice “I only eat at wine bars in Rome”.
The research was “exhausting” but yielded interesting results, so herewith- enjoy my personal list for the best wine bars in Rome:
1. Palatium – Via Frattina 94 (few steps from Via Condotti and Spanish Steps)
In spite of its location, it is not a tourist trap at all. Rather, it is the official “Enoteca Regionale del Lazio” , where you can find local (from Lazio region) high quality wines and food at good prices. You can have a glass at the bar, or sit in the adjoining room and also enjoy a light lunch.
Owned and run by Massimo Riccioli (chef of the prestigious La Rosetta restaurant), it is also an oyster and sushi bar with a beautiful terrace. More than 300 wines to choose. For take away service, don’t miss Rosticcerì.
3. Roscioli - via dei Giubbonari, 21 (close to Campo dei Fiori)
This has always been my favorite, even if always crowded. Why? Perfect location, great choice of cheeses, bread and coldcuts, as well as lovely food from the cuisine.
4. Cul de Sac - Piazza Pasquino, 73 (close to Piazza Navona)
Founded in 1977, it offers more than 1500 wines, great choice of cheeses and coldcuts, tasty food from Rome (tripe, ox tail, carbonara) and other Italian regions. You can sit outdoors.
5. La Barrique – Via del Boschetto 41b (not far from the Quirinale)
Fabrizio Pagliardi will welcome you in this warm and cozy wine bar at any time of day and night, for a glass of wine or for some good food. You can take an aperitif (great choice of bubbly!), have a quick lunch, sit down for a nice dinner or come for a dessert post theatre.
Close to the Pantheon (even if the first Casa Bleve was founded in the Ghetto and it is still in via Santa Maria del Pianto 9-11), this is very elegant. The wine list is impressive and you can find whatever you would like to match with smoked fish, salads, cheese…
In the heart of lively Trastevere, a wine bar which is more than that! Different floors for the wine bar (best Rome wine bar in 2003 by Bibenda), cafè, restaurant (2 forks by Gambero Rosso), wine shop. Ask Andrea to pour you one of the 25 wines they offer by the glass or choose one of 1000 wine bottles, you won’t be disappointed! They also have their own-designed glasses, that you can buy, if you like them.
Very close to the Piazza del Popolo; at the end of the 19th century, it was Marquis Cavalcabò’s horse drawn carriages garage and then it became a “trattoria” at the end of WWII. Since1969, it has been owned by the Buccone family. The walls are lined with wine bottles and the ambiance is informal and warm. Great array of wines and good choice of food, like roast pork from Ariccia , aubergine parmigiana, soups and salads.
Portugal is one of Europe’s genuine hidden gems, known more to Port wine lovers then to general tourists-at-large. But there is so much to see and do in this beautiful country!
Let us share some tips on ten things you must not miss on your trip to Portugal:
1. Port Wine Lodges of Vila Nova de Gaia- history, romance and stunning wines on offer just across the river in Oporto. While in Oporto don’t miss the Lello bookshop, Foz Velha restaurant and amazing Arabic room at the Stock Exchange.
2. The magnificent Douro Valley- one of Europe’s most untouched and achingly beautiful vineyard landscapes. The region is also home to world class estates such as Quinta do Crasto. Stay at the trendy and luxurious Aquapura and pamper yourself with Zen style spa treatments between the wine tasting tours.
3. Pena Palace in Sintra- a touristy town, but like Venice it is still DEFINITELY well worth the visit as just delightful. This palace is outrageous and beautiful. And the town is a true delight. Stay at the Penha Longa where stylish Catalan chef Sergi Arola is the consulting chef in charge. And go gourmet shopping at the Loja do Vinho.
4. The creepy Bones Chapel (Capela dos Ossos) in Unesco heritage town of Évora- wonderful town and strange but fascinating visit. This picturesque town is a must and if you had the time, we would stay at least 2 days to see it. Stay at the gorgeous Convento Espinheiro (a luxury Starwood property in a renovated convent).
5. A Fado performance in Lisbon- Portugal’s version of the blues. Singers Mariza and Misia have brought Fado to international audiences and Lisbon is full of intimate Fado venues (Cafe Luso, Clube do Fado, etc) where you can see charming live concerts over dinner and/or drinks. Interested in learning more about this unique musical style? Check out the Fado museum, also in Lisbon.
6. Whale watching in the atmospheric Azores Islands- one of those “must do in a lifetime” experiences- captivating and exhilarating.
Sperm Whale, Physeter macrocephalus, with open mouth, Pico Island, Azores, Portugal, Atlantic Ocean
7. Alentejo wine country- personally, our favorite region in Portugal, if not Iberia. Expansive views reminiscent of the Sahara, punctuated by Arabic castles, cork forests and perfectly preserved characterful villages- oh, and some GORGEOUS wines. The Alentejo is a very special place.
8. Pork and Clams (Porco com amêijoas)- sounds awful but it is a delicious regional dish to seek out, originating in the Alentejo. Recipe here.
chefemario.blogspot.com
9. Nazaré- authentic fishing village surprisingly unspoiled, and home to some of the simplest and freshest fish in the country. The best way to enjoy it is a simple lunch at one of the unpretentious beach shacks with ice cold vinho verde or even a chilled rosé. A nice break too, from the ubiquitous Salt Cod.
10. Batalha Monastery- Henry the Navigator is entombed in this spectacular, unfinished monastery, one of the loveliest in Europe. Nice place to stop while driving between Lisbon and Oporto, too.
Spain is packed full of beautiful towns and villages, ranging from the Arab white washed hamlets of the south to slate “pizarra” villages of the north to sandstone pueblos in the Balearic islands and tropical architecture of the Canary islands. It is near impossible to pick ten, but here is a good start: our selection of the ten most darling villages in Spain, in our most humble opinion.
Feel free to tell us your favorites, too as there are dozens more gorgeous towns!
It’s January, it’s cold and miserable and you don’t feel like cooking tonight…
PIZZA night!
A pizza always hits the spot, but what to drink with it? Turn a simple Pizza night into a food and wine adventure with these fun pizza/wine pairing suggestions:
10 New Year’s Resolutions for Wine Lovers- dos and don’ts.
1. Don’t drink bad wine- life is too short.
2. Place more importance on food and wine pairing.
3. Try a new grape varietal every month.
4. Drink bubbly throughout the year, not only on New Year’s eve! And along with Champagne, why not Franciacorta and Cava too?
5. Don’t EVER drink wine in plastic cups, no matter if it’s a barbecue. Just don’t.
6. Visit the wine country on your next vacation.
7. Expand your wine knowledge by trying wines from off the beaten tracks, and with indigenous varietals.
8. Drink dessert wines more regularly and explore beyond Sauternes and Tokaj. Why not sweet reds from the Priorat, Moscatel from Valencia, Brown Muscat from Australia, Passito from Pantelleria, Beaumes de Venise…
9. Invite friends over for a Sherry tasting and Spanish tapas evening.
10. Open your mind up to wine regions or producing countries (Germany, anyone?) you thought you didn’t like. Engage a wine merchant to seek out good wines from these places and see if this changes your view.
Simona Piccinelli, our Italian food and wine specialist has put together a fabulous suggested week-long itinerary for gourmets wanting to eat their way through Northern Italy’s best restaurants. Pour a glass of Italian wine, grab a notebook and read on….
DAY 1- Fly into Milan, pick up car and drive east to the Franciacorta wine region. Check into the Albereta Relais & Chateaux hotel, set amid a vineyard. Taste Franciacorta wines at La Dispensa or at the Bellavista estate. Tonight for dinner, enjoy dinner at your hotel in Gualtiero Marchesi’s phenomenal restaurant.
DAY 2- Drive to Bergamo, one of Northern Italy`s hidden gems. Explore the old town in the higher part of the city. Settle into a splendid lunch at 3 Michelin starred Da Vittorio. After lunch, take in some sightseeing in the città alta and head back to the Albereta wine resort.
DAY 3- On to Cremona, home of the Stradivarius and another delightful town off the main tourist track. Poke around the small town’s gorgeous churches and small museums and then head to the wonderful 3 Michelin starred Dal Pescatore for lunch. Mega treat. Digest your tasting menu on a charming walk through Mantova afterwards, yet another darling town and stomping grounds of the powerful Gonzagas.
DAY 4 – Shift gears and head to Lake Garda today. Drive to Torre del Benaco and take a cooking class with Andrea and Lara atLe Gemme di Artemisiawhich will be lunch. (This features in our Garda culinary weekend). Then visit the lake and head to Brescia, an unsung art town nearby where you can have a trendy aperitif. Dinner tonight could be at the beautiful 2 Michelin starred Miramonti L’Altro. Sleep at Albereta again tonight.
DAY 5 Work your way back to Milano today and visit the sights- cathedral, Brera, etc. Dine at the contemporary and hip 2 Michelin starred Sadler tonight. Sleep at the cute Petit Palais.
DAY 6- Drive south today to visit Pavia, with its stunning Certosa, monastic complex. Amazing and so close to Milan. Tonight for dinner, finish your top chefs tour of Italy with a divine cena at Trussardi. Sublime.
DAY 7- fly home and get your gym membership going again
