by Nancy O’Neill

The legendary Michelin guide for 2011 has been released with The Republic of Ireland retaining all of their stars and Northern Ireland losing their only one. Sadly, Michael Deane of Deane’s in Belfast lost his star, which he had originally received in 1997, due to an ill-timed burst water pipe and subsequent flooding of the restaurant last year.

Of the six fine dining establishments to be allocated the coveted stars in the Republic, only one, House at The Cliff House Hotel, is outside Dublin. For each of these talented chefs the emphasis across the board seems to be marrying the finest and freshest LOCAL ingredients with expert culinary skill to create utterly sublime dining experiences. Ireland may not be at the forefront of every foodie’s mind but it is certainly getting there.

L’ ECRIVAIN

L’Ecrivain Restaurant, a hidden treasure located in a cute courtyard off Baggot Street in Dublin, is run and owned by accomplished chef Derry Clarke and his wife Sallyanne.  With one Michelin star and having won Best Restaurant Wine list, Best Sommelier and Georgina Campbell’s Restaurant of the year, its fan base seems to stretch far and wide. The restaurant has an established reputation for innovating old-fashioned classics and using top quality seasonal ingredients with a strong emphasis on the freshest, locally sourced seafood.

Inside, the restaurant is small, intimate but in no way cramped with simple crisp white décor and luxuriously rustic wood and brick elements. Menus are refined and well thought through including succulent specialties such as Dublin Bay prawns, Pigeon breast, Organic Salmon or Wild Seabass with divine desserts to indulgently finish off a sublime eating extravaganza.

At L’Ecrivain there is a huge emphasis on hiring highly trained, experienced and unbelievably friendly staff (even by Irish standards!) to look after the diner’s every need; making any visit not only a tantalisingly tasty one but an extremely pleasant one too. Within that staff, award-winning sommelier Martina Delaney has compiled a delightful wine list combining classic favourites and exciting new finds. Highly recommended.

109A Lower Baggot Street, Dublin

GUILBAUD’S- Restaurant Patrick Guilbaud

French born proprietor Patrick Guilbaud, originally from Cognac, is the only person to currently hold two Michelin stars in Ireland. His restaurant is located in an 18th century Georgian townhouse (think colourful Dublin doors!) beside the beautiful five-star Merrion hotel over-looking the hotel’s delightful  16th century garden.

The food at this elegant establishment reflects the décor; modern French sophistication and Irish charm using the finest in-season local produce. Signature dishes on chef Guillaume Lebrun’s menu include the Clogher Head Lobster Ravioli and Roast Lacquered Challans Duck. Even the pea soup gets rave reviews!  The Testing Menu is also extremely popular allowing you to try Lebrun’s take on classic Irish dishes.

Equally impressive is the wine list which includes wines that Mr. Guilbaud has been collecting from all over the world since 1981. Finding the perfect wine to accompany your meal will not be difficult however the vast array could throw the more indecisive amongst you into a quandary. Fear not, highly accomplished sommeliers are on hand to take you through each offering in great detail. Why not combine a delicious dinner at Restaurant Patrick Guilbaud with an overnight stay at luxurious Merrion Hotel. The perfect way to round off any trip to Dublin.

21 Upper Merrion Street-Dublin 2

THORNTON’S

Controversial, acclaimed chef Kevin Thornton won Chef of the Year in 2007 and has previously held two Michelin stars. He is renowned for speaking his mind (probably due to being one of nine children!) and never backs down in the face of adversity. Love him or hate him he is one of Ireland’s most famous and respected chefs. He has worked in the gardens of Cashel Palace hotel, on a farm, in a vineyard and an abattoir all helped to create a vast culinary knowledge base.

Specialities at the restaurant include Roast Suckling Pig with Poitin sauce or Lightly Smoked John Dory with Brunoise vegetables. Vegetarians are well catered for too. Exciting and delightful from the very first bite, the menu changes with the seasons and availability of produce.  Sommelier Paul Young will help you choose a wine to complement each dish from their interesting wine selection.

The dining room, designed by New York architects, is light, airy and modern with crisp white linens, plush décor and large photos from Thornton’s book adorning the walls. There is also a canapé bar where you can enjoy a refreshing glass of wine, taste some exquisite nibbles and soak up the atmosphere without having to make a reservation. Perfect at the end of a long day of sight-seeing and/or shopping!

Thornton’s, 1 Portobello Road, Dublin 6

CHAPTER ONE

Award-winning Chapter One in Dublin city centre went through a vast renovation in 2009 to create a slick and exciting eatery with the main centre-piece being the culinary theatre that is The Chef’s Table. This snug little alcove with its shiny volcanic rock table offers diners the chance to interact with the professional kitchen while indulging in an intimate banquet of modern, robust dishes executed to the highest level using only the highest-quality local, seasonal produce. For a restaurant renovated at the back end of the Celtic Tiger there is none of the pretension one would expect from that era. Dishes are hearty, soulful and well-balanced with the elegance and sophistication one expects from a Michelin starred kitchen without the diner running the risk of leaving the restaurant feeling only half full. Specialities include wild halibut with a blanquette of cockles and mussels, or for the carnivores, loin of venison with blackberry and chocolate ravioli.

As for the wine list, sommelier Ed Jolliffe has chosen a wonderful selection to suit all budgets, careful to compliment the menus without the wines taking centre stage.  And chef and co-owner Ross Lewis is one of Ireland´s most charismatic and innovative foodie personalities. For a divine and indulgent dining experience combining modern Irish cooking with old-fashioned grace and charm a visitor to Dublin cannot beat Chapter One.

18 – 19 Parnell Square, Dublin 1, Ireland. Check out our friends at Good Food Ireland’s wonderful profile on Chapter One here.

BON APPETIT

Bon Appetit overlooks the harbour in Malahide, a quaint and picturesque village north of Dublin City Centre famous for its stunning seascapes, relaxing coastal walks and, of course, Malahide Castle  and peaceful surrounding gardens. The Georgian building housing the Michelin starred restaurant also includes a chic brasserie, trendy cocktail bar and a glitzy wine bar called Le Bon Vin offering tantalising tapa style nibbles and extra special wine tastings.The Restaurant itself is the definition of stylish sophistication and elegance; neutral greys, mochas and creams set off by plush carpets and classy Victorian furniture.

Executive chef at Restaurant Bon Appetit Oliver Dunne was awarded a Michelin Star in 2008. He began his career in Dublin and then worked in London under Gary Rhodes and Gordon Ramsey and was tipped as one of Ireland’s rising stars when he came back to Dublin in the early noughties. Again the seasonal menus focus on locally sourced produce beautifully executed in a contemporary Euro/French style. Signature dishes including Boudin of duck and foie gras with celeriac purée and fresh peas or Fillet of John Dory with new season asparagus, pine nuts and salted grapes are bound to leave even the most avid foodies satisfied. Jean Baptiste, the in-house sommelier, manages an interesting and extensive wine list to complement all the delectable goodies on offer.

No. 9 James Terrace, Malahide, Co. Dublin

CLIFF HOUSE

House at The Cliff House Hotel, Co. Waterford is the most recent restaurant to receive a Michelin accolade and the only Michelin starred eatery based outside Dublin. Located in a beautiful cliff-side boutique hotel (which we have already featured on the Cellar Tours site), the restaurant offers a menu which is exciting, glamorous and slightly off-the-wall. Dutch head chef Martijn Kajuiter has worked under Marco Pierre White and Michel Roux and executes his dishes with passion and flair. He only uses produce sourced from within a forty kilometre radius of the hotel and has a nursery on site to ensure the freshest herbs and vegetables reach your plate. Dishes we recommend are Ardmore Bay Lobster with Broccoli juice and Black Angus Fillet steak with Murphy’s sauce.

Sommelier Anke Hartmann has worked in many Michelin starred establishments over the years with the likes of Gerard Basset and takes her responsibility as sommelier at House very seriously. “I…use my knowledge and professionalism to open the horizon on a confusing wine world and hopefully an unforgettable experience to our guests. Food and wine belong together and add another dimension of pleasure when married to perfection”. Passion, professionalism and originality set off by a back-drop of stunning seascapes; enough said.

Middle Road- Ardmore, Co. Waterford

Why not visit these Michelin starred restaurants in Ireland on a private chauffeured gourmet tour?

It’s become an annual tradition: we look back at the last year and consider what the best meals of the year were.  Last year we focused on Italy, and this year we are doing it across the board.

As we travel throughout the five countries where we offer our gourmet tours (France, Ireland, Spain, Portugal and France) throughout the year, between the whole team we get to try literally hundreds of restaurants throughout the year. These range from hole- in- the wall – family restaurants to gastro pubs to Michelin starred high end eateries.

We have selected some of our favorite dishes (as you can see we tended to favor simple preparations and top quality ingredients over complicated dishes)  this past year with links to where we were lucky enough to taste them.

May 2011 be a terrific year for all our readers, may you eat and drink very well!

1. Seafood platter, with delicious lobster and oysters, at Aherne’s in Youghal – county Cork, Ireland

2. Frog legs at Maison Lameloise in Burgundy

3. Pizzoccheri at Locanda Altavilla in Valtellina

4. Amazing Irish breakfast with wild smoked salmon and carragheen pudding at The Mill in Dunfanaghy – county Donegal

5. Scallops at Le Coquillage of Chateau Richeaux and informal tasting of oysters (creuses and plates) in Cancale

6. Pan fried eel and salad with shallot vinaigrette at 2 Michelin starred restaurant at Domaine des Hauts de Loire in the Loire Valley

7. Spring specialty with wild asparagus at La Subida in Friuli

8. Strawberry millefeuille at Venissa (owned by top Prosecco producer Bisol) in Venice

www.PassioneGourmet.it

9. Grilled Rodaballo (Turbot ) at Elkano in Getaria, Spanish Basque Country

10.  Sole with Fennel, Bergamot and Med Flavors at Celler de Can Roca in Catalunya, Spain

Enjoy these photos of our favorite Irish hamlet:

Some highlights of Kinsale:

Fishy Fishy- unpretentious seafood restaurant with the freshest most delicious fish you can imagine. The owner chef is a real personality, and does TV shows in Kinsale on his program “Martin´s Mad about Fish”

Check out an episode here, featuring Kinsale.

Don Herlihy´s Historic Stroll of Kinsale- this local guide well versed in the history of Kinsale and Ireland, gives a passionate tour of the town. Terrific.

Sea Kayaking- up the road from Kinsale in Garretstown, H20 offer half day, full day and sunset kayak tours of the waterways around Kinsale.

Wine Museum- anyone with an interest in Ireland’s “Wine Geese” would enjoy a visit to the tiny wine museum, located in Desmond Castle. Provincial and small, yes,  but the history of the Irish emigres who set up wine businesses around the world is truly fascinating.

The Scilly Walk- pedestrianized path along the sea from the village of Kinsale to Summercove. From this beautiful walkway partially shaded in ferns, you have divine views over the bobbing boats and the harbor. When the walk finishes, carry on down the hill and stop in the Bulman pub for a drink and then continue on up the hill to the Charles Fort which offers the best panoramic view of Kinsale.

If dying your hair green, wearing “kiss me, I´m Irish” stickers” and  knocking back whiskey shots in Irish pubs just does not appeal this Paddy´s Day, why not celebrate St Patrick´s day this year with a civilized dinner party with good friends and family?

Here is how we will spending St Patrick´s day (March 17) this year, and it won´t be bacon and cabbage (!):

THE MENU-

Pre dinner cocktail- Irish Mist with ginger ale and lime

Appetizer (starter)- Mixed green salad with Gubbeen chorizo and St Tola´s Organic Goats Cheese.

Entree (Main Course)- Rabbit stew with cider, recipe in Clodagh McKenna´s wonderful Irish Farmer´s Market Cookbook

Side Dish-Irish champ with Clonakilty black pudding (from butcher Edward Twomey) and apple jelly, recipe here.

Dessert - Chocolate Guinness Brownies (Here is a recipe from Northern Irish chef Stephen Jeffers, also featured in this month’s Food and Wine magazine in Ireland)

Wines- the Irish wine geese will be our inspiration and we´ll serve the excellent Concannon Merlot (Livermore Valley) and Reserve de Léoville Barton 2005 (Bordeaux). Sublime. More on Irish American wineries here.

Cheese- the cheese plate will all be delicious Irish farmhouse cheeses like Gubbeen, Durrus and Killeen.

Coffee- Irish Coffee with Jameson Irish whiskey, but of course.

THE MUSIC- Some beautiful Irish music like Kila, Cork native Tim O’Mahony, Moving Hearts The Storm, Lúnasa Otherworld, Cathie Ryan, and Mary Black.

THE TABLE DECORATION- Stephen Pearce Irish pottery (made in County Cork), Kinsale Crystal stemware,  Newbridge silverware (cutlery) and Avoca table linens.

HISTORY OF ST PATRICK’S DAY- Here is a little background on this Irish national holiday and on Saint Patrick himself.

And if you will be in Ireland on St Patrick´s day this year then here are a few wonderful suggestions:

* See Kila live in Dublin on Paddy’s day at the Olympia Theatre. Other Dublin events here.

* Enjoy live music and the festival in Cork city

* Traditional music and a seriously fun atmosphere in Doolin, County Clare

The 2010 Award Winners are:

Hotel of the Year - The BrookLodge & Wells Spa – Macreddin, Co Wicklow

Restaurant of the Year – Campagne – Kilkenny

Chef of the Year – Eamonn O’Reilly – One Pico, Dublin

Pub of the Year – The Ballymore Inn, Ballymore Eustace, Co Kildare

Just Ask Restaurant of the Year Award Sponsored by Bord Bia- Rathmullan House - Rathmullan County Donegal

Natural Food Award- Good Things Cafe – Durrus, County Cork

Casual Dining Award -The Sheelin Tea Shop – Bellanaleck County Fermanagh

Taste of the Waterways Award 2010 Sponsored by Waterways Ireland
Cafe Merlot at Blakes of the Hollow – Enniskillen County Fermanagh

Host of the Year -Kay McEvilly – Cashel House Hotel - County Galway

Wine Award of the Year -Ballymaloe House - County Cork

Atmospheric Restaurant of the Year-Sha Roe Bistro – County Carlow

Hideaway of the Year -The Old Convent Gourmet Hideaway - County Tipperary

Country House of the Year -Gregans Castle – County Clare

Newcomer of the Year -An Port Mor – Westport Co Mayo

Galway Oyster Festival, September 24-27, 2009- The mythical Galway Oyster Festival takes place on the west coast of Ireland in the atmospheric and “wild” region of Connemara. This festival has been taking place annually in Galway  for over 50 years and features plenty of oysters, Guinness (the classic pairing) and Irish “craic” (fun and warm spirit). The city comes alive with the influx of visitors (the event attracts over 10,000 local and international guests on average, who consume over 100, 000 oysters over the course of the festival!).  This festival also features jazz bands, gala dinners and champagne & oysters VIP events.

Where to stay: We love the G Hotel with its contemporary design and FABULOUS spa (a “must” on a grey day).

Where to eat: Oyster lovers head out of Galway to the quaint 300 year old Moran’s Oyster Cottage (which attracts locals and celebrities alike, from Woody Allen to Pierce Brosnan). In Galway itself, our top choice is Oscar´s.

VIP Touring: Cellar Tours offer gourmet private tours in Galway with private chauffeured Mercedes, visits to artisan smoke houses in Connemara, private cooking classes and unique luxurious experiences.

Connemara Mussels Festival, May 1-4, 2009- also in Connemara, the Killary Mussels are celebrated in Letterfrack (County Galway), in this new seafood festival. This year´s activities include mussels cooking competitions, children´s treasure hunts, Irish music and of course plenty of great local stouts.

Baltimore Seafood Festival, May 22-24, 2009- This absolutely darling little coastal village in West Cork holds an annual seafood festival called “A taste of Baltimore”, in association with the Baltimore Wooden Boat festival (a vintage sailing fest). This year there will be dozens of local food artisans serving up stunningly fresh seafood from West Cork- crab, oysters, mussels, prawns and more; handmade local cheeses (West Cork is famous for its artisan cheese producers); and smoked salmon. There will be fun events to accompany the great food and live Irish music, like a harbor race, vintage regatta and kids crab fishing competition.

Where to stay: In West Cork, one of our favorite “hotels” is the elegant Bantry House in the lovely seaside village of Bantry (on extensive grounds with historic gardens and sea views).

Where to eat: The possibilities are endless in West Cork, but if pushed to make a few recommendations they would include: Good Things Cafe in Durrus, Island Cottage on the Heir Island, and  Casino House in Kilbrittain. For charming pub ambiance, don´t miss “The Algiers” in Baltimore itself.

VIP Touring: Cellar Tours offer spectacular gourmet private tours throughout Baltimore and West Cork.

Taste of Dublin, June 11-14, 2009- The “Taste” festivals are relatively new and have been a roaring success. The Taste of Dublin festival is set in the romantic Iveagh gardens, with four days of cooking demos (by Michelin starred chefs, tv chefs and emerging culinary stars) and various seafood tasting opportunities.

Where to stay: Our top choices are the Dylan for design and style and the Merrion for old world charm.

Where to eat: Don´t miss Chapter One and L´Ecrivain!!

Taste of Cork, June 25-27, 2010- the Cork version of this fabulous food festival, Taste of Cork, will be held next year. This is the gourmet epicenter of Ireland and you can expect fresh seafood, artisan cheeses and tantalizing smoked and cured meats and fish. Check out a video from last year´s Taste of Cork:

Where to stay: Hayfield Manor is a relaxing and elegant place to stay in Cork city, our preferred choice when you want to be near the center of Cork.

Where to eat: “Must do” restaurants include the mythical Cafe Paradiso, the much loved “Les Gourmandises” and of course in nearby Kinsale, the Fishy Fishy cafe.

A Taste of West Cork, Skibbereen, September 16-21- the 2009 calendar is not live yet, so keep your eyes peeled on their web. This festival is a must for local foodies and features the creme de la creme of Irish culinary personalities, emerging chefs and boutique producers. Skibbereen is located in West Cork, see travel tips above under the Baltimore Seafood festival.

Hillsborough International Oyster Festival, September 4-6- Northern Ireland is embracing “foodie-ism”, with a culinary renaissance taking place. The north is home to many food festivals including the Hillsborough International Oyster Festival (founded 15 years ago). The nice thing about this event is apart from all of the entertainment (from gala balls, Canadian boat racing, and oyster eating competitions), the purpose is for charity (last year´s proceeds went to Action Cancer). The historic town where this festival takes place is located in County Down, travel info here.

We had high expectations for the Irish artisan suppliers we had researched for our new tours, based on what we have been hearing over the last year in the gastro press and word of mouth and after the inspection visits we are delighted to say this summer has been a roaring success in terms of finding enthusiastic suppliers and entrepreneurial food producers. Our new tours will be online as soon as we create the new itineraries with our new cheese producers, chefs, smokehouses, luxury hotels, limo drivers and entertaining guides! Why are we so excited? Some info on what’s happening in the foodie scene in Ireland:

GOOD FOOD IRELAND

We were put in touch with this fantastic non profit organization, Good Food Ireland, through the managing director of the superb Merrion Hotel in Dublin (also included in our new tours) and met the director Margaret Jeffares in her beautiful home near Wexford to talk about the association. Over fresh scones and coffee Margaret passionately told us talked about some of the producers in her association and their dedication to preserve and promote Irish small scale and high quality food production.  GFI says ” The Good Food Ireland ethos is to prioritize the core indigenous ingredients of Irish cuisine and promote local and artisan food producers. ” Members include famous Michelin starred chefs like Derry Clarke (L’ Ecrivain, Dublin); the organic Apple Farm in Cahir; superb Irish farmhouse cheese producers like Gubbeen,  Knockanore and Ardrahan; Smokehouses like the Burren Smokehouse in a gorgeous part of County Clare and the Connemara Smokehouse in the wild west; artisan butchers like McGeough´s in pretty Oughterard and Jack McCarthy in Kanturk (Cork).

We visited one of GFI´s most dedicated members, the Arlington Lodge, run by the very charming owner Maurice Keller and had our first fantastic lunch of the gourmet inspection- homemade game paté, St Tola Goat’s Cheese Bruschetta with red onion marmalade, local Atlantic crab claws (in photo above), corn fed Irish chicken…. delicious. Maurice passionately explained his belief about about using all local ultra high quality produce to try and fight the wave of cheap food imports to Ireland (tough and inferior chicken and tasteless frozen fish- mainly from around Asia). The Arlington is a pretty little historic Georgian house with period style furniture, and fabulous food indeed, highly recommended. We are putting together a ten day gourmet itinerary in Ireland for our foodie clients featuring Good Food Ireland members (many luxury hotels, high end restaurants and charming Irish country hotels are also members!), so keep an eye out on our website for this.

SLOW FOOD IN IRELAND

You might be surprised to discover that Ireland has one of the most active and exciting Slow Food chapters in Europe, much more so even than France or Spain. Celebrity foodie Clodagh McKenna (whose Irish Farmers Market Cook Book is highly recommended!) writes this in the Slow Food Ireland guide´s foreword, “For anyone with even a passing interest in food, Ireland has become an extremely interesting place to live or visit. Of all the many developments, two are particularly thrilling. The first is the emergence of the producer as hero. Suddenly farmers, fisherman, growers and artisans are being recognized and rewarded for the skill and care they devote to their chosen work. The second is the rapid expansion of farmer´s markets and specialist food shops. Crucially, the sense of connection between producer and consumer, which was under threat, is growing stronger”.

Slow Food Ireland´s members include many small producers like the Biddy Early Brewery (Ireland´s first microbrewery), excellent bakers like Arbutus Bread, air dried hams such as Krawczyk´s West Cork Salamis (West Cork, by the way is gourmet paradise with the highest concentration of gourmet producers, also stunning scenery) and then of course the gourmet goddesses Giana Ferguson of Gubbeen and Darina Allen of Ballymaloe (who head the local Slow Food chapters of West Cork and East Cork respectively).  This month, Slow Food organized the first Terra Madre gourmet extravaganza event in Ireland, in the Norman town of Waterford. It brought together foodies, journalists, consumers, and showcased the creme de la creme of Irish food producers. Various conferences were held on sustainability of food production, ethics questions, genetic modification, etc. From all accounts, the event was a roaring success and definitely was a chance to discuss the trends, controversies and predictions for the future of Ireland´s food scene.

ARTISAN CHEESE PRODUCERS

We visited some fantastic dedicated cheese producers, hardworking and exceptionally charming people who are very open to the idea of gourmet tourism. Highlights included Gubbeen and Durrus and there are still many, many more producers to visit!

Gubbeen- The Ferguson family are culinary pioneers in Ireland and over the last decade have gained international fame for their cheeses and more recently for their smokehouse products, but the history of the farm goes back much longer, for five generations! Husband Tom is proud of of their “cheesemaker´s herd” of British Friesan, Simmenthal, Jersey and Shorthorn, as well as the indigenous Kerry Cow.  Wife Giana began making cheese at this gorgeous West Cork farm back in the late ´70´s, and has cultivated the Gubbeen brand over the decades. The estate makes the flagship Gubbeen cheese (semi soft with creamy and nutty flavors), and a smoked Gubbeen which son Fingal smokes in the onsite smokehouse. Fingal also makes a range of exquisite smoked salamis, hams, bacon and sausages (no ordinary sausages!), many flavored with herbs that daughter Clovisse grows in her onsite herb garden(photo below). A large portion of the Gubbeen products are sold at local farmers markets around West Cork and Cork city, such as the fantastic market in their own village of Schull (a pretty fishing hamlet on the coast).

Durrus- Located in the same-named pretty hamlet in a breathtakingly beautiful corner of West Cork, we visited Jeffa Gill´s small, pretty estate. This award winning cheese (now sold at the famed Murrays Cheese Shop in New York) is made from a local herd which grazes on the Sheep´s Head Peninsula, and is made using all traditional methods.  Durrus is so famous on the international foodie scene that they have had French students come to doing a “stage”  and annually host a group from Slow Food in Italy who come to picnic in their peaceful garden (in photo below) on their delicious cheese. Jeffa, along with Giana of Gubbeen, is keenly involved with Slow Food activities and is a member of the Irish Farmhouse Cheese Association. Just a few minutes down the road is the fabulous Good Things Cafe, one of this areas gastro gems. The drive here from Gubbeen (in Schull) has to be one of the loveliest drives in Ireland!

ARTISAN SMOKEHOUSES

Ireland is home to a small select group of master smokers and it seems that the gourmet press is catching on fast.  Smoked Salmon has long been a prized commodity in Ireland and these days, top producers are branching out into smoked cheese, smoked chicken, even smoked eels!  We had the pleasure to visit some of the best Irish smokehouses and some top picks in county Cork include:

Belvelly – Located near Cobh (the Titanic’s last stop), this tiny smokehouse is run by the effervescent Frank Hederman and his lovely wife Caroline (who co-wrote the “Good Food in Cork” guide along with Ireland´s cherished culinary granny Myrtle Allen. We visited on a gusty morning right before the salmon had been delivered and saw the cheeses being smoked. Frank is a real character, well known in all the local markets and the Irish and British gourmet press. He told us all about the history of the business and showed us around.  Belvelly is Ireland´s oldest traditional smokehouse and the salmon, mackerel, and (mythical) mussels that he smokes are cured with organic English salt and hang-smoked using beech wood. Caroline is starting up a gourmet shop on their property to showcase their own products, naturally, but also ancillary products like home smokers, sea salt, and gourmet goods from Ireland. We had some great ideas with Caroline for our tours, keep your eyes peeled.

Ummera- Owned and run by the softspoken and very charming Anthony Creswell, Ummera makes one of the most tantalizing delicacies I have ever tasted- smoked chicken. Sounds simple, right? You could almost mistake it for “roast chicken”, but no- smoked chicken is out of this world. Words cannot describe the chicken bliss….. Luckily Anthony sells and ships abroad, so try it for yourself! Not many smokers are actually licensed for both meat and fish, and as Ireland is ultra (some say even overly) cautious about food hygiene, Anthony had a tough time getting all the papers in order to be able to smoke his famous chickens on this beautiful estate in Timoleague (known for its dramatic 13th century Abbey in the photo below, and for another local foodie producer, “Mella´s Fudge”). The smokehouse is tiny, as they all are, and after a short tour of the production facility we went for a walk (me in high heels!) along the river on his sprawling estate. Anthony worked in the wine business for years, and only in his later life decided to go into his father´s line of work- master smoker. The quality of their products is top class. The dry cured bacon, organic farmed salmon from county Clare and of course that smoked crown of chicken- simple and mouth watering! Ummera also looks after a very interesting blog with plenty of news on their own business as well as other foodie news in Ireland.

When you think of Ireland you think of castles, stately manor homes, cozy Irish hotels with masculine hunting decor and a roaring fire…. you don’t normally think of crazy Alice in Wonderland decor or lamps shaped like designer hats! Well, this summer’s research trips here in Ireland have blown away some of the stereotypes we had about luxury hotels in Ireland. And we are excited to include these two new hotels located on opposite sides of the country:

G Hotel, Galway

Located just outside the city center of this midsize Irish city known for its arts festival, the fairly generic and bland glass facade (the outside kind of looks like a car dealership!), disguises the truly FABULOUS interior of the G. This hotel is very special and you won’t want to leave. Once you enter you could spend the whole day inside, just in their award winning spa (a must if its a drab, gray day). The hotel was designed by famed couture hat designer Philip Treacy (based in London but originally from Galway) and is a treat on the eye. There are various salons and color schemes, a restaurant with a Michelin starred consulting chef Stefan Matz (who also looks after stunning sister hotel the beautiful Ashford Castle in Mayo county further north), a sumptuous Spa (products are Espa and all spa staff train in London at headquarters for Espa). Our favorite room at The G is without a doubt their outrageous Linda Evangelista Suite (Philip Treacy has dedicated this room to his top model friend), over 1500 square feet with a roofed in terrace overlooking the lough. A faux zebra trophy looks onto a sumptuously designed room, and the bathtub is a specimen of design in itself. G Hotel web

Dylan Hotel, Dublin

Located just over the Baggot street bridge, and steps from one of our favorite restaurants in Ireland, Michelin starred L’ Ecrivain, the beautiful Dylan hotel boats both a stunning interior (completely modern and designer) and a wonderful historic facade (it’s located in the converted royal hospital’s nurse’s home) . While many design hotels are minimalist and can be quite cold, the Dylan is full of luscious rich colors (eggplant, burgundy, silver and gold, etc) and textures (crushed velvet, silk, etc). Rooms are just wonderful with supremely comfortable beds, a range of high end bath products in the bathroom, lots of small touches like lighting around the bed so you don’t trip on the way to the bathroom at night, fresh flowers, CDs in the room, etc. The staff are top class and the candlelit terrace bar and indoor cocktail bar are simply THE place to meet in Dublin. Definitely one of the best hotels we have found lately and can’t wait to send you here! Dylan Hotel web

For the last few weeks we have been on the road, burning rubber across the island to find luxurious country retreats and historic hotels. We visited all kinds of wonderful places from Design Hotels (see our favorite designer hotels here), Country Guest Houses, Manor Homes and Palatial Estates and of course, some Irish castles!

Here is a list of our top picks which we will be including in our new private chauffeured gourmet tours in Ireland.

BEST MANOR HOTEL-ADARE MANOR

Adare Manor is one of the most stunning properties we have see in Europe! Built in the early 1800’s for the 2nd Earl of Dunraven and his wife, Lady Caroline Wyndham, it is a beautiful Victorian Gothic mansion (plenty of bay windows, gargoyles, etc) with a few quirks (for example there are 52 chimneys- one for every week of the year). The ivy clad manor rests in an absolutely gorgeous estate of more than 800 acres of manicured gardens (with a beautiful Cedar of Lebanon), parkland and a river flowing around the hotel. Brown trout can even be fished year round on site, Adare Manor has a private gillie for guests. Adare Manor is also known by golfers for its 18 Hole Championship Golf Course (which regularly hosts the Irish Open) designed by the mythical Robert Trent Jones Senior. Their Manor Oakroom Restaurant run by head chef Mark Donahue is high end traditional cuisine with a discreet creative twist. When we visited this past weekend dishes on the tasting menu included Roast Atlantic Scallops with a thermidore glaze of endives and red onions; roast quail and crisp air-dried Irish pork; and roast breast of Guinea Fowl filled with foie gras mousse. The atmosphere in the dining room is romantic with its original oak panels, high ceilings, and flickering candles. Adare Manor web

BEST CASTLE HOTEL- DROMOLAND CASTLE

Our expectations were not extremely high, as while visiting other properties we had found that many castle hotels live off their name, similar to some of the Paradors in Spain, and rooms tended to be dated and tired. What a surprise when we arrived! Not all hotels have a history dating back to the 11th century and can claim to be the ancestral home of one of the few Royal Gaelic families (Brian Boru, the High King of Ireland). The list of famous guests is long and distinguished including the last few American presidents and a host of celebrities. This gorgeous property is located in the west of Ireland, about an hour south of Galway and two hours northwest of Cork, and a few minutes drive from Shannon airport. It stretches out over 400 acres of lush parkland with a soft rolling golf course (JB Carr & Ron Kirby), sparkling lake (complete with ducks) and beautiful tree lined paths. High Tea is served from 3-5PM in elegant salons that wind around the first floor of the castle. We loved the Earl of Thomond dining room, very atmospheric and pretty and serving haute Irish cuisine (think Roast Monkfish with black pudding risotto and langoustine & asparagus salad). The latest novelty at Dromoland is a fabulous spa, using the Irish – Voya- line of products whose products are made with an organic seaweed base. Treatments could include a – Tangle Me Up- seaweed body wrap for example. Love this place. Dromoland Castle web

BEST GARDENS- BANTRY HOUSE

Wow, location location location. Mama mia, this hotel (really a luxurious B&B) is set in an absolutely idyllic spot. Located in cute Bantry in West Cork, you drive in from the coast about a kilometer through thick woodland before arriving to the Bantry House, surrounded by luxuriant gardens. We arrived late and the gracious owner himself welcomed us. We later found out that Mr. White is the actual descendant of the original owners who had the mansion built in the 1700’s! Our very pretty room faced the formal gardens and had the most comfortable bed I have slept in I think in years! There is an old fashioned billiards room with an honor bar and all kinds of games from scrabble to Mahjong, and an adjoining salon with cozy fire. Gin Tonics beside the fire after a walk in the gardens are a must. We had an informal dinner at their little cafe style bistro but for finer dining head to O’Connors (fine seafood restaurant). The Bantry House, while not ultra luxurious, is one of the most unique places we have stayed, and the views from the gardens over the bay are simply priceless. Bantry House web

BEST LUXURY HISTORIC HOTEL WITH SPA- THE PARK, KENMARE

Kenmare is one of the cutest little gourmet villages of southern Ireland and is located in the southwest in the Kerry region. And the much loved Park Hotel is still gorgeous, run by some of the best hospitality professionals we have had the pleasure of meeting. This Victorian landmark hotel faces the Kenmare Bay and houses what is considered to be one of the best spas in Ireland if not Europe. The Samas spa is a real experience and is part of the Park experience. Some of the Samas rituals include a basalt hot stone therapy and the 2 hour ladies ritual (with deep facial cleansing and hypnotic acupressure massage). The beautiful and peaceful location of The Park in this beautiful corner of Kerry, lends itself to a stay focused on relaxation and indeed many guests enjoy simple pleasures like yoga and jogging, followed by cocktails and fine dining in their delicious formal dining room, or head to Kenmare to local gems like Packies.

Park Hotel Kenmare web

BEST LUXURY HOTEL FOR FISHING- SHEEN FALLS, KENMARE

Also in Kenmare is the extremely comfortable Sheen Falls Lodge property, which we also loved for its dramatic riverside location, services, and superb staff. The Danish owners revamped a historic hunting lodge dating back to the 1600’s, although most of the hotel is (tastefully) new. This pampering hotel is a member of Relais & Chateaux, and understands luxury and how to spoil its guests. The hotel will organize a champagne picnic served by the lake after a scenic drive in a vintage Buick dating to the 1930’s for example. Or for our wine loving clients, a private wine tasting in their impressive cellar with their knowledgeable and friendly sommelier. The suites here are great and overlook the cascading waterfalls, and they have thought of everything. A major focus at the Sheen Falls is on fishing and they are very proud of their private gillie who will also act as private river guide. Sheen Falls Lodge web

BEST COUNTRY HIDEAWAY- CARRIG HOUSE

We had the best dinner I think we have had in over a year here at this adorable tiny country house on Caragh Lake in Kerry. Simple dishes like baby lamb chops and roast turbot were cooked to perfection and out of this world!!! This converted 19th century hunting lodge is located in a hidden corner of tiny Caragh Lake near the Ring of Kerry and is very romantic and cozy. While we stayed here in summer, it would be great to go back in winter and just relax in front of the fire and enjoy long walks and gorgeous dinners with brandies to follow in the front salon. The room to go for is definitely their presidential suite with views opening onto the lake, and a delicious bed they personally brought over from India. Carrig House web

ANOTHER GREAT COUNTRY HOUSE FOR DINING- BALLYMALOE HOUSE

The Allen family are the most famous culinary family in Ireland. Darina Allen is the Julia Childs of Ireland and Rachel is a celebrity TV chef- both sell bucket loads of cookbooks and of course they offer those world famous cooking demonstrations and professional classes nearby at their organic farm and cookery school. The house is where foodies can overnight (decor is simple country chic) and above all, eat! The beautiful dining room is most atmospheric at night with a roaring fire, and the food here is all sourced locally (much of it from their own farm) and daily. We enjoyed an excellent lunch here just a few days ago, and can definitely sing their praises. We tried mackerel fished from Ballycotton (a few miles down the road), tender organic steak and free range organic chicken (both from their own farm) in a delicate tarragon sauce- simple and very, very good. We look forward to sending you here and to our other favorite corners of Ireland! Ballymaloe House web

Wine Tours in Ireland? Not exactly! And Ireland may not be the first country that springs to mind when you think of a gourmet vacation. However we have noticed a massive shift towards food awareness and artisan production (cheese, smokehouses, rare whiskeys, etc) in Ireland in the last few years (Des is Irish and we visit Ireland regularly). One of Slow Food’s most active chapters is Ireland, farmers markets have been rejuvenated in many towns, gourmet festivals are sprouting up like mushrooms and cooking classes are all the rage. Pair all of this with huge investments for renovations of historic manor homes and hotels taking place throughout Ireland and it didn’t take us long to decide that Ireland could be a very interesting location for our food and wine loving clients.

So here we are, in Cork, Ireland for the summer, doing research trips for the best part of 6 weeks to visit whiskey distilleries, famous and up and coming restaurants, castles, and new stylish boutique hotels, tidy towns and fishing villages to find the creme de la creme suppliers for our new tours. Keep an eye out for our site inspection notes which will be posted throughout the summer! Oh, and we did actually here rumors of wine being made somewhere near Kinsale, more on that later….