At the very last minute, last week I decided to spend a few days in Rome with my friends, to visit the amazing exhibition Bacon and Caravaggio at the Galleria Borghese , waiting for the great Caravaggio exhibition at Scuderie del Quirinale to celebrate the 400th anniversary of the great artist’s death.

Having a very full schedule with art, churches and museums, we didn’t have much time to enjoy sit-down restaurants, so we decided to follow Mario Batali’s advice “I only eat at wine bars in Rome”.

The research was “exhausting” but yielded  interesting results, so herewith- enjoy my personal list for the best wine bars in Rome:

1. Palatium – Via Frattina 94 (few steps from Via Condotti and Spanish Steps)

In spite of its location, it is not a tourist trap at all. Rather, it is the official “Enoteca Regionale del Lazio” , where you can find local (from Lazio region) high quality wines and food at good prices. You can have a glass at the bar, or sit in the adjoining room and also enjoy a light lunch.

2. Riccioli Café - Piazza delle Coppelle n° 10/a

Owned and run by Massimo Riccioli (chef of the prestigious La Rosetta restaurant), it is also an oyster and sushi bar with a beautiful terrace. More than 300 wines to choose. For take away service, don’t miss Rosticcerì.

3. Roscioli - via dei Giubbonari, 21 (close to Campo dei Fiori)

This has always been my favorite, even if always crowded. Why? Perfect location, great choice of cheeses, bread and coldcuts, as well as lovely food from the cuisine.

4. Cul de Sac - Piazza Pasquino, 73 (close to Piazza Navona)

Founded in 1977, it offers more than 1500 wines, great choice of cheeses and coldcuts, tasty food from Rome (tripe, ox tail, carbonara) and other Italian regions. You can sit outdoors.

5. La Barrique – Via del Boschetto 41b (not far from the Quirinale)

Fabrizio Pagliardi will welcome you in this warm and cozy wine bar at any time of day and night, for a glass of wine or for some good food. You can take an aperitif (great choice of bubbly!), have a quick lunch, sit down for a nice dinner or come for a dessert post theatre.

6. Casa Bleve - via del Teatro Valle 48/49

Close to the Pantheon (even if the first Casa Bleve was founded in the Ghetto and it is still in via Santa Maria del Pianto 9-11), this is very elegant. The wine list is impressive and you can find whatever you would like to match with smoked fish, salads, cheese…

7. Enoteca Ferrara -- Piazza Trilussa 41

In the heart of lively Trastevere, a wine bar which is more than that! Different floors for the wine bar (best Rome wine bar in 2003 by Bibenda), cafè, restaurant (2 forks by Gambero Rosso), wine shop. Ask Andrea to pour you one of the 25 wines they offer by the glass or choose one of 1000 wine bottles, you won’t be disappointed! They also have their own-designed glasses, that you can buy, if you like them.

8. Buccone - via di Ripetta 19/20

Very close to the Piazza del Popolo; at the end of the 19th century, it was Marquis Cavalcabò’s horse drawn carriages garage and then it became a “trattoria” at the end of  WWII. Since1969, it has been owned by the Buccone family. The walls are lined with wine bottles and the ambiance is informal and warm. Great array of wines and good choice of food, like roast pork from Ariccia , aubergine parmigiana, soups and salads.

9. Il Simposio di Constantini - Piazza Cavour, 16 (close to the Vatican)

Elegant place, with a restaurant and wine shop. They also organize wine tasting classes. 4000 wines on the list!!!!!!!!!

10. Trimani — Via Cernaia 37B

Historic venue (they have been selling wine since 1821), great food and charming atmosphere.

11. Open Baladin – via degli Specchi, 5/6 – Rome

And what happens if after all that wine, you are craving something different? You go to Open Baladin and enjoy one of the artisanal biers on the menu

by Simona Piccinelli, Italian wine specialist

For the very first time, Mr Helmut Köcher -  President of  Gourmet International – presented the “Terroir 2009″ award during the 18th edition of the International Wine Festival & Culinaria in Merano, Italy.

The prize rewards the wines that best express the connection with their terroir.

17 wines  were granted the Terroir 2009 – Merano Wine & Culinaria Award:

1.  Zymè, Amarone della Valpolicella 2003
2. Wiengut J. Hofstätter, Kolbenhof Gewürztraminer 2008
3. Dorigo, Picolit 2007

4.  Ca’ del Bosco Vintage Brut  2005
5. Adami, Prosecco del Casel Extra Dry
6. Podere Rocche di Manzoni, Barolo Cappella S. Stefano 2005
7.  Giacosa Bruno, Roero Ameis 2008
8.  Buranco, Cinque Terre Sciacchetrà 2007

9. Mattia Barzaghi – Zeta Project, Vernaccia di S. Gimignano Zeta 2008

10. Testamatta, Testamatta 2007

11. Cantina Zaccagnini, Clematis Passito 2004

12. D’Angelo, Aglianico del Vulture 2007

13. Marisa Cuomo,  Costa d’Amalfi Furore Fiorduva 2007

14. Mille & Una, Dolce & Nero 2006

15. Graci, Etna Quota 600 2007

16. Argiolas, Vermentino di Sardegna Is Argiolas 2008

17. Carlo Pellegrino, Marsala Vergine Riserva del Centenario 1980

The 18th edition of the Merano International Wine Festival & Culinaria last month, crowned Merano as “the Italian capital of gastronomic excellence“. The Kurhaus – where the wine tastings took place -  opened its doors to wine lovers, gourmet and trade on Saturday November 7th, for 3 days. In spite of the hefty price tag, more than 5,000 visitors, including 300 journalists from all over the world  as well as many importers, filled the 8th century palace, exclusive meeting point where you could taste the top wines of the highest quality and meet the producers and wine personalities themselves, rather than their reps or sales people.

Wine Festival & Culinaria- Photo Cred Wino Blog

I tasted many, many, many wines (in this 18th edition of Merano Wine Festival, there were 322 Italian wineries and 142 producers from France, Slovenia, Germany, Austria, etc) and here are the ones that I felt in love with and would love to see in my own cellar (keep an eye out for upcoming posts on French and sparkling wines):

Kante – Friuli- 2003 Malvasia
A special edition and a special label for the 2003 vintage of this dry wine from native grape Malvasia, simply impressive! It’s a unique wine that surely strikes all great white wine lovers.Round and flavorful with hint of apricot, honey and nuts, it offers also mineral aromas.

Renato Keber – Friuli-2005 Tocai Friulano Zegla
A great character, Mr Keber, for a great wine! Made with 100% Tocai Friulano grape, this wine is macerated with the skins for 24 hours, improves for 12-14 months in 500 litre casks and for 6 months in steel. It is an explosion of flavours and emotions when you smell and taste it: pear, apricot, almonds, white flowers … If you find it, grab it!

Nando – Slovenia-2006 Rebula

Poderi Luigi Einaudi - Piedmont-2005 Barolo Nei Cannubi
A quick “hi” to Barbara and Matteo from this lovely, historic estate in Piedmont was the occasion to taste this single vineyard Barolo. Barolo is one of my passions and sometimes it is undervalued by consumers looking for ready-to-drink wines, as you need to let it age to taste it at its best. This wine is elegant, fresh and dense; full of licorice, cherry, plums and spices, it is very well balanced.

Elio Grasso - Piedmont-2005 Barolo Gavarini Chiniera

Cupano – Tuscany-2004 Brunello di Montalcino

Ornella comes from hard-working Lombardy, Lionel is Frech: they are the heart of this organic winery near Camigliano. Founded in 1998, it is already on the right tracks for distinguished wines. This Brunello is powerful and deeply coloured; cherry, tobacco, plums and spices in the mouth, with stupendous tannins and a longlasting finish.

Capannelle - Tuscany-2005 Solare

It is always a pleasure to meet Manuele, the brilliant sales manager of this Chianti based winery. Ruby red colour, hint of plum, vanilla, almond. Velvety and full-bodied.

Rocca di Frassinello - Tuscany-2006 Rocca di Frassinello

Villa Matilde - Campania-2004 Camarato Falerno del Massico

This single vineyard red is one of the best wines from Villa Matilde. Great complexity, with berries, plums, licorice, cocoa, vanilla, tobacco and spices well balanced with elegant and luscious structure

Vinosia - Campania-2002 Taurasi Riserva Rajamagra
I cannot express the joy of meeting, after so many years,  brothers Mario and Luciano Ercolino, who oversaw my first steps in the wine sector … and what a pleasant surprise their new wine adventure!! This Taurasi Riserva is full-bodied, powerful and smooth, look for it and keep it jealously, it will give terrific satisfaction in a few years …

And after the tastings, a visit to the Culinaria hall was a MUST

Culinaria- Photo cred Wino Blog

Prosciutto- Photo cred Wino Blog

MICHELIN STARS IN ITALY FOR 2010

FOODIE NEWSFLASH: This very morning the 2010 edition of the Michelin Red guide for Italy was presented in Milan at the Triennale and we couldn’t miss it!!

by Simona Piccinelli, Italy specialist and Milan correspondent

Just as Gualtiero Marchesi did last year, Ezio Santin (chef and owner of the Antica Osteria sul Ponte in Cassinetta di Lugagnano) has decided not to be in the Michelin guide, as quote “after 33 years under examination, we don’t think a guide can improve our work”.

Is this a new trend of big “grand old men” chefs rejecting the Michelin?

Is Michelin losing its power and authority?

We don’t know and will keep our eyes peeled on this, but in the meantime we are happy to announce that the new 3 star restaurant in Italy, Da Vittorio, is also one of our favorites. Not only for the excellence of their cuisine, but also because the Cerea family happen to also be extremely nice, professional, and generous people. We worked with them during some events and catering and I can really say that they have a special place in my heart!

So “bravo” to Francesco, Bruna, Chicco, Raffaella and Bobo! Father Vittorio (who passed away 4 years ago) would be so very proud of all of them.

The other 3 stars are a carry over from last year, so nothing new to report there. Here is the list of our faves and the dishes we liked most and would kill to try again:

1. Dal Pescatore di Canneto sull’Oglio (Mn)

chef Nadia Santini

Dishes:
Tortelli di zucca
Frog Legs with herbs

2. Enoteca Pinchiorri di Firenze

chef Annie Feolde

Dishes:

All about Burrata
“Agnolotti” filled with polenta and tossed with scampi, tomatoes and black olives

3. La Pergola di Roma

chef Heinz Beck

Dishes:
Lamb with artichokes with garlic purée, sweetbreads and pecorino cheese
Tortelli filled with lamb tossed with pecorino cheese and mint

4. Le Calandre di Rubano (Pd)

chef Massimilaino Alajmo

Dishes:

Cuttle fish cappuccino
Roquefort cheese mousse with iced strawberry crust

5. Al Sorriso di Soriso (No)

chef Luisa Valazza

Dishes:
Sorriso risotto, a dream come true for risotto lovers (like me!) with prawns, artichokes, pine nut kernel and saffron
Fassone beef braised with Barolo sauce

New 2 stars in Italy:

Antica Corona Reale – Cervere (Cuneo)
Piazza Duomo – Alba (Cuneo)
Il Pellicano -Porto Ercole (Grosseto)
La Madia – Licata (Agrigento)
Met dell’Hotel Metropol – Venezia
Il Mosaico – Casamicciola Terme, Ischia (Napoli)
Il Trenkerstube – Tirolo (Bolzano).

New restaurants with 1 star in Italy:

Andreini – Alghero (Sassari)
Kleine Flamme – Vipiteno (Bolzano)
Ortica -Bedizzole (Brescia).
Maxi – Vico Equense (Napoli).
Roof Garden – Bergamo
Vicolo Santa Lucia – Cattolica (Rimini).
L’accanto -i Vico Equense.
Baldin -Genova.
Hotel Cinzia (Vercelli).
Al Vigneto – Grumello del Monte (Bergamo).
Osteria del Pomiroeu – Seregno, Milano.
Sissi – Merano.
Antonello Colonna – Roma
Glass Hostaria – Roma.
Castel Fragsburg – Freiberg (Merano).
La Fenice – Ragusa
Le Robinie – Montescano (Pavia).
La Meridiana – Piove di Sacco (Padova).
Caffè Le Paillotes – Pescara.
Hostaria del Mare (Modena).
Il Piastrino – Pennabilli, Pesaro.
La Fornace – Barbablu di Noli (SV).
La locanda di Bu – Nusco (Avellino)

MICHELIN STARRED RESTAURANTS IN ITALY CLOSE THEIR DOORS

What made such an impression on me was the number of Michelin starred establishments that closed this year:

4 Mori in Varese, Locanda del Palazzo in Barile (Potenza), Via romana in Bordighera (Imperia), La Bitta nella pergola in Genova, Vesta in Tivoli (Roma), L’Acquamatta in Capolona (Arezzo),  Conti Roero in Monticelli d’Alba (Cuneo), Il Gallopapa in Castellina in Chianti (Siena),  Terrazza in Montecchio di Crosara (VR), L’Arsenale in Cavegnano d’Adda (LO), Castello Banfi in Montalcino (Siena), Fini in Modena.

MICHELIN INSPECTORS

Have you ever wondered how to become a Michelin inspector? Each inspector  travels over 30.000 km, has over 200 meals in restaurants and spends over 160 nights in hotels, per year. The majority of the inspectors come from hotel schools and/or is well-experienced in the hospitality business. After sending a request to the Red Guide, you will have a meeting with a senior inspector in a restaurant and after that you will have to write a report about restaurant details (service, mise en place, whether your neighbor´s plate was empty or not when he left, etc) and meal details (food quality, cooking, raw materials, etc). If you do a superb good job, you will spend some months in European restaurants with a senior inspector and finally you will be able to work on your own!

The 2010 guide will be released at all fine bookshops on November 26th.

“99 Magnum per le 99 Cannelle”

Cari golosi,

Vi ricordiamo che mercoledì 3 giugno alle ore 18:00 alla Città del gusto di Roma

Gambero Rosso organizzerà una grande asta di beneficenza il cui ricavato sarà interamente devoluto a favore dei terremotati dell’Abruzzo.

Vi aspettiamo.

Per l’occasione saranno bandite 99 Magnum prodotte dalle migliori aziende vitivinicole italiane.

Gambero Rosso - Città del gusto – Via E. Fermi, 161 – 00146 Roma

INFO: cappelloni@gamberorosso.it   info@cittadelgusto.it1

Attention Coffee Lovers:

If you will be in Italy on April 17th, then keep your eyes peeled for cafes celebrating national espresso day! More than  3.000 cafès and bars in Italy will celebrate Espresso Italiano Day 2009, promoted by the Istituto Nazionale Espresso Italiano. When you order a coffee, you will get a leaflet with tips and tons of interesting info about Espresso. One of the tips of course is how to make the perfect espresso.

Find out more here.

Attention rare wine collectors: Next weekend on March 14th, a phenomenal wine auction is taking place in Rome. Here is a preview of wines that will be available-

- Top Supertuscans (Sassicaia, Solaia, Tignanello, Guado al Tasso, Masseto, Messorio, Ornellaia, Luce, Oreno, Scrio, 50&50, Paleo, Desiderio, Giramonte), and oustanding vintages (1988, 1990, 1997, 2001)

- Rare Burgundy (La Tache Domaine de la Romaneé Conti 1942 and 1943)

- Top Burgundy (Rouget, Jayer, Mortet, Clair and Romaneé Conti)

- Barolo and Barbaresco, with vintages ranging from 1964 to 1997

- Bordeaux

- Vintage Champagne

- Brunello di Montalcino

More info-

Gelardini e Romani Wine Auction

Contact-

raimondo@grwineauction.com     +39 333 4159941
flaviano@grwineauction.com    +39 335 7724172

Wine Investors Trends for 2009

Before you buy, some information to keep in mind:

What can wine investors expect in 2009?

- Many more collectibles wines on the market

- Financial crisis offers good opportunity for better prices

- International “taste” is stronger than ever

- Much more information available via Internet

-Quality/price ratio more and more important

What wines are decreasing in value/quality

- 1er Cru Bordeaux, such as the 2000 and 2005 vintage.  Vintages that are still improving are not offering the quality predicted.

What wines are increasing in value/quality

1) Supertuscans- 2004 and 2006 are terrific vintages (96/100 Parker) and prices are still good.

Supertuscan 2006 by Robert Parker:

Tenuta dell’Ornellaia, Masseto 2006 99/100
Le Macchiole, Messorio 2006 98/100
Tenuta dell’Ornellaia, Ornellaia 2006 97/100
Antinori, Solaia 2006 94/100

2) Chateauneuf-du-Pape- 2005 and 2007. Keep an eye on Domaine de la Janasse….

3) Burgundy. Until June 2008, it was all about Cru de La Romanèe Conti, but now some Pinot Noir Crus are getting more interesting such as Leroy, Denis Mortet, Meo Camuzet and everybody is talking about Henry Jayer…

Some info on Fine Wine Investment Services:

Christopher Keiller

Premier Cru

Strategic Wine Investments

Advice on Wine Searcher

The mythical Piemonte wine family Gaja is celebrating its 150th anniversary this year at the annual wine fair Vin Italy. And what better way to celebrate it than with a fabulous wine tasting of Gaja´s best wines ever? This once in a  lifetime event will take place on Saturday April 4th at the Centro Congressi Europa in Verona. Internationally famous wine write Jancis Robinson will lead the spectacular and unique tasting of wines to include:  Gaia&Rey 1994, Darmagi 1997, Conteisa 1996, Sperss 1989, Sorì San Lorenzo 1988 and Barbaresco 1964!!!!!

Tickets will be available for sale soon, keep your eyes peeled on the Vin Italy website for details still to be released. Proceeds will go to charity (Fondazione Nuovo Ospedale Alba – Bra Onlus).

More info here.

WHEN TO GO- Vin Italy takes place from April 2-6 in the elegant Italian city of Verona.

WHERE TO STAY- In Verona, we love the historic Gabbia d´Oro with its charming period furniture and splendid location.

WHERE TO DINE- Verona is full of exceptional restaurants and we particularly love: Il Desco (think suckling pig with black truffles, cannoli stuffed with Burrata cheese and high end creative cooking); beautiful Maffei, an elegant restaurant set in a Baroque dining room; the convivial Bottega dei Vini (the risotto cooked in Amarone wine is straight from heaven!) and the trendy Ristorante al Cristo (sushi, Pintxos and creative cuisine dished out in a 16th century palazzo).

WHAT TO DO- In Verona, don´t miss the Roman Arena, one of the best preserved Ancient Roman remains in Italy; the Cathedral, Castle and Royal Gardens are all delightful, too; further afield you could visit the Amarone wine country; head to lovely Lake Garda; Venice is only a short distance….

MORE WINE EVENTS IN ITALY- here is a list of 2009 wine events including Vin Italy

Italian chocolate makers are world famous and artisan chocolate making is experiencing a Renaissance. This is good news for chocolate lovers! Here is a quick check list of chocolate events, festivals, tours and producers in Italy, enjoy!

Chocolate in Piedmont

CHOCOLATE EVENTS IN PIEDMONT- Turin hosts the fabulous CioccolaTò chocolate fair this year from March 6-15, a “must” in the chocolate industry and for connoisseurs.

RECOMMENDED PIEDMONT CHOCOLATE PRODUCERS- Domori (“Cacao Cult”), Caffarel, Bessoni, Gobino, B. Langhe, Zuccarello.

Chocolate in Tuscany

CHOCOLATE EVENTS IN TUSCANY- Cioccolosità took place last month (it´s an annual event, so choco lovers put it in the calendar for next year) in Monsummano Terme. The adorable medieval town of Barga held a Chocolate festival last December, and we are waiting to see if they will repeat it this year, info here. And Florence runs an annual chocolate fair in January called the Fiera del Cioccolato Artigianale (artisan chocolate festival), getting better every year.

RECOMMENDED TUSCANY CHOCOLATE PRODUCERS-Amedei, Roberto Catinari, Slitti, Paul de Bondt, Mannori, Bruno Corsini.

Chocolate in Sicily- see a full profile of Sicilian chocolate here.

Chocolate in Umbria

CHOCOLATE EVENTS IN UMBRIA- Eurochocolate is the biggest choco event in Italy and takes place in the darling town of Perugia from October 16-25, 2009.

UMBRIA CHOCOLATE PRODUCERS- Perugina (Baci)

CHOCOLATE TASTING TOURS- Cellar Tours offer various Chocolate Tasting Tours throughout Italy (Piedmont, Sicily, Tuscany, Umbria, etc). More info on chocolate tasting and culinary tours here.

From today until January 30th, the “First Industry Convention of Italian Wines in America” will be taking place in three American cities- Boston, New York and Miami. The Italian Trade Commission is launching this new annual wine fest in the USA with a series of seminars on Italian wine and will inaugurate the festival at the Boston Wine Expo today and tomorrow (Jan 24-25) and will then be followed by Italian wine events in new York City from Jan 26-28 ( at the Waldorf Astoria hotel, Palace hotel and Hilton hotel). The event at the Hilton (with over 250 wineries present) will be a major highlight of this event. Vino 2009, as the festival is being called, is targeted at wine trade and journalists, with  a wide array of activities (presentations, tastings, etc) for the lucky guests. Vino 2009 concludes in Miami at a stellar wine event taking place at  the Intercontinental Hotel on Jan 30.

This should be a fantastic wine industry event and we look forward to attending next year!