Cellar Tours Blog

The Val d ‘ Orcia, featured today in the NY Times, is quintessential Tuscany and utterly romantic.  Expect dreamy hills studded with cypress trees and ancient farmhouses; a smattering of gorgeous art cities and medieval towns in easy reach (Siena, Pienza, San Quirico D’ Orcia, Montepulciano, Montalcino); world class wine country (Brunello, anyone?); amazing cheese country (this is the land of Pecorino) and supremely atmospheric drives.

If you have not yet had the opportunity to visit this breathtaking region yet, then we cannot recommend it enough! This is also THE destination for special occasions- anniversaries, honeymoons, wedding proposals, family reunions…

A quick guide to the Val d’ Orcia for food and wine lovers:

WHEN TO GO: Autumn is the ultimate time to visit for wine lovers as the vineyards are at their most beautiful, the wineries have a real buzz, the weather is generally still sunny but deliciously fresh (perfect for the region´s rich red warming wines). Winter is very cold but a great time to enjoy the food and captivating landscapes without the stifling summer crowds. Spring is gorgeous.

WHERE TO STAY: You can use a few different places as bases, either in town or countryside. We love the Grand Hotel Continental in Siena for old world charm, the luxury Il Borgo at Castello Banfi (also a wine estate, near Montalcino) and the darling little Palazzo del Capitano in the delicious hamlet of San Quirico d’ Orcia.

WHAT TO DO: Wine tasting is obviously a big pull and many wineries open to the general public like Banfi, Barbi and Poggio Antico (which also has a great restaurant) in Montalcino.  For visiting  cult wineries (like Casanova di Neri) and more special visits, book a luxury private wine tour in Montalcino or lesser known Montepulciano. The artistic treasures in the towns of Siena and Pienza are also a “must”. Hiring a local art guide is a fantastic way to discover the local anecdotes and secret corners too.  Renting a villa for a week in Val d´Orcia and spending quiet days cooking, shopping at local markets, wine tasting and relaxing is also an unforgettable way to enjoy the region to the fullest.

WHAT TO BUY: Rare Brunello, artisan cheeses, wild boar cured ham (prosciutto di cinghiale), Terracotta in Siena: and then fine products from other parts of Tuscany (olive oil from Lucca, hand made masks from Florence, antiques and gold from the countless markets, etc).

More info:

Italy travel tips

Wineries in Tuscany

Simona Piccinelli, our Italian food and wine specialist has put together a fabulous suggested week-long itinerary for gourmets wanting to eat their way through Northern  Italy’s best restaurants.  Pour a glass of Italian wine, grab a notebook and read on….

DAY 1- Fly into Milan, pick up car and drive east to the Franciacorta wine region. Check into the Albereta Relais & Chateaux hotel, set amid a vineyard.  Taste Franciacorta wines at La Dispensa or at the Bellavista estate. Tonight for dinner, enjoy dinner at your hotel in Gualtiero Marchesi’s phenomenal restaurant.

DAY 2- Drive to Bergamo, one of Northern Italy`s hidden gems. Explore the old town in the higher part of the city . Settle into a splendid lunch at 3 Michelin starred Da Vittorio. After lunch, take in some sightseeing in the città alta and head back to the Albereta wine resort.

DAY 3- On to Cremona, home of the Stradivarius and another delightful town off the main tourist track. Poke around the small town’s gorgeous churches and small museums and then head to the wonderful 3 Michelin starred Dal Pescatore for lunch. Mega treat. Digest your tasting menu on a charming walk through Mantova afterwards, yet another darling town and stomping grounds of the powerful Gonzagas.

DAY 4 – Shift gears and head to Lake Garda today. Drive to Torre del Benaco and take a cooking class with  Andrea and Lara at Le Gemme di Artemisia which will be lunch.  (This features in our Garda culinary weekend). Then visit the lake and head to Brescia, an unsung art town nearby where you can have a trendy aperitif. Dinner tonight could be at the beautiful 2  Michelin starred Miramonti L’Altro. Sleep at Albereta again tonight.

DAY 5 Work your way back to Milano today and visit the sights- cathedral, Brera, etc. Dine at the contemporary and hip 2 Michelin starred Sadler tonight. Sleep at the cute Petit Palais.

DAY 6- Drive south today to visit Pavia, with its stunning Certosa, monastic complex. Amazing and so close to Milan. Tonight for dinner, finish your top chefs tour of Italy with a divine cena at Trussardi. Sublime.

DAY 7- fly home and get your gym membership going again

Italy´s wine country is spectacularly varied from the dramatic valleys of Piedmont overshadowed by the Alps, to the fairytale wine roads of Chianti (complete with castles, medieval villages and cypress lined country roads), to the volcanic vineyards near Sicily´s Mount Etna.

Wine lovers coming to Italy are spoiled for choice when it comes to beautiful vineyards, charming restaurants and quaint family run wine estates; however luxurious and stylish accommodation has in years past, not been one of the highlights of the rural wine country. Not any longer! Wine hotels are hot hot hot right now, and there are some absolutely FABULOUS places to stay in the wine country now.

Here is a list of some of our favorite hotels either with a winery or right in the wine country (most set amid vineyards) throughout mainland the north of Italy (info on Southern Italian and Sicilian wine hotels coming soon!):

TUSCANY

L’Andana, Maremma

This is simply one of the loveliest hotels in Italy- a boutique luxury hotel located in a renovated 16th century Duke´s summer hunting lodge amid a vineyard near the castle crowned coastal village of Castiglione della Pescaia- right in the heart of Maremma, home of the Super Tuscans. L´Andana facilities include an “Espa” spa, vitality pool, a Michelin starred Alain Ducasse restaurant, vineyards and winery, hiking trails, tennis courts, – what more could you ask for?

More info on L´Andana hotel here.

Il Borro, Chianti

Owned by the Ferragamo fashion family (who purchased this medieval hamlet cum exclusive resort from the Dukes of Aosta), Il Borro is a unique vacation village. In the resort there are two ultra luxury villas and four farmhouses with individual apartments. It is located about half way between Florence and Perugia, close to the historic town of Arezzo. Within the resort there is a beautiful winery (wine has been made in this hamlet since the 1700´s) and the property also produces olive oil and honey. Il Borro is perfect for big groups or families wanting to visit the wine country in a relaxed, luxurious atmosphere. Activities that can be organized here apart from wine tasting include horseback riding, yoga, archery, hot air ballooning, and hiking.

More info on Il Borro here.

Castello del Nero, Chianti

A stunning, authentic 12th century castle that has been luxuriously appointed with period furniture and all the creature comforts, Castello del Nero is by far the most luxurious hotel in Chianti. Surrounded by 700 acres of romantic olive groves and vineyards, this stunning hotel could not be more picture perfect. There are 50 rooms, each uniquely decorated and many with claw foot bathtubs, and vaulted or frescoed ceilings. The facilities include one of the best spas in Italy and a fine restaurant (La Torre). This is the ultimate hotel for honeymooners and/or wine lovers looking for romance.

More info on Castello del Nero hotel here.

Banfi il Borgo, Montalcino

The prestigious American owned Brunello di Montalcino producer Banfi, also boats their own darling little wine country hotel, right on site. There are only 14 rooms, including some lovely suites, and the decor is rustic chic. Bathrooms are a strength here with features you don’t often find in European hotels like professional hairdryers, oversized showers, etc. Guests have access to many pretty exclusive areas like the reading room, the pergola garden and the convivial Taverna restaurant. Then of course, on the property, they can visit the winery castle and the glass museum, open to the general public. This is the best option for a luxury hotel near Montalcino, especially as Castello di Velona is closed for renovation.

More info on Banfi Borgo hotel here.

Chianti wine region profile and Chianti private tours.

Maremma wine region profile and Maremma private tours.

Montalcino wine region profile and Montalcino private tours.

PIEDMONT

L’Ostelliere, Gavi

Gavi is one of Piedmont’s least visited wine regions, and what a pity as some of the countryside is pristine, the village of Gavi offers a preserved historic center and the Monterotondo wine resort has it all- rustic hotel, top class restaurant (La Gallina), famous winery (Villa Sparina)- all set amid manicured vineyards. As in all the wine hotels, the most spectacular months to visit are September and October (harvest time) when the vineyards are at their best and the weather is still nice enough to sit outside on the terrace sipping a glass of wine taking it all in. Non wine related activities this hotel offers are bike tours of the area, posh picnics on the river, cooking classes, truffle hunting, and visits to rice producers. Of the 25 rooms here,12 are suites and worth paying extra for.

More info on Ostelliere hotel here.

Relais Monforte , Langhe

This is the Langhe´s newest highly acclaimed hotel just opened this spring. And it is an oasis for golf lovers! Located near the medieval wine hamlet of Monforte d´Alba in the heart of Barolo wine country,Relais Monforte actually has a working winery on site- the Cascina Gagliass. Many of the 36 bedrooms have big terraces and rooms and this contemporary and stylish hotel is just what the doctor ordered for guests looking for bright and airy decor and high end, discreet service. Facilities and services include: 9 hole golf course on site, wine tasting on site, private cooking classes, a wellness center, and stylish restaurant (Piedmont cuisine with an innovative approach).

More info on Relais Monforte hotel here.

Albergo Agenzia, Bra

Slow Food headquarters- how cool is that? The Albergo Agenzia, located near the Slow Food capital of Bra, is a handsome hotel set in a historic (Neo Gothic) Savoy residence. While the rooms are fairly simple and not luxurious by any means, the benefit to staying here is right on site you have the famed wine bank which you can visit and the outstanding Michelin starred Ristorante Guido. Also on site, out of interest, is the International University of Gastronomic Science which attracts culinary students and professionals from around the world. This hotel is also a good base for wine touring as you have Barolo, Barbaresco and Alba all nearby, not to mention Giolito cheese, our favorite cheese tasting venue.

More info on Albergo Agenzia hotel here.

Piedmont wine region profile and Piedmont private tours.

FRIULI

Terra e Vini, Gorizia

Friuli is THE “it place” for cult white wines at the moment. It´s huge fans and advocates include Mario Batali, and Joe Bastianich is even making wine here. we are also major fans of Friuli, one of Italy´s undiscovered wine regions. Located northeast of Venice, Friuli is home to some stunning scenery, interesting cities like Trieste (which attracted writers like James Joyce) and of course those wines…. white wines are what the region has become know for, and a new term has even been coined “Super Whites” and the town of Gorizia is where you´ll find some of the best wine country. This little hotel calls itself an osteria (restaurant) with rooms. Indeed, the rooms are an afterthought and don´t expect luxury, but if you want to be in the thick of the wine country this is a great option. Elda Felluga’s restaurant has become mythical and you can experience it for yourself, then stay over and wake up to views of the gentle Friulian countryside.

More info on Terra e Vini hotel here.

Friuli wine region profile.

FRANCIACORTA

L´Albereta Relais & Chateaux

Franciacorta is Italy´s most exclusive sparkling wine region and this gorgeous Relais & Chateaux is simply the only place to stay for guests looking for romance, atmosphere and luxury, of course! Located less than 90 minutes east of Milan, near the pretty Lake Iseo and the town of Brescia, Franciacorta is one of the north´s hidden wine country gems. The Albereta is the perfect place to stay for a wine tasting spa weekend, with its 2 same owned wineries (stylish Contadi Castaldi and the uber prestigious Bellavista) and world class spa (which includes Apollo, the new beauty technology). If you are celebrating a special occasion and want to splash out, book the Cabriolet room in the Torre di Lago- push a button and the roof opens up for you to admire the stars from your four poster bed! Another fabulous reason to stay here is to dine at Gualtiero Marchesi´s super famous restaurant, benissimo!

More info on Albereta Relais & Chateaux hotel here.

Relais Franciacorta

For an inexpensive option in the Franciacorta wine country, this is a great choice. Use this comfortable, rustic hotel as a base to explore the top wineries of the area such as Bellavista, Bersi Serlini, and Il Mosnel. Set up a cooking class at one of the local restaurants. Do a Michelin star dining tour of the region, rent a boat on the lake, visit the art city of Bergamo and see the Ancient Roman ruins in Brescia, take some invigorating hikes… there are many opportunities for a relaxing vacation in Francciacorta. This hotel has 50 rooms, some of which have lake views (worth it) and decor is simple country design. one thing to watch out for though is that many weddings are organized here, so make sure a wedding does not correspond to your dates if staying here as it is no fun if not your own wedding!

More info on Relais Franciacorta hotel here. 

Franciacorta wine region profile and Franciacorta private tours.

VENETO- PROSECCO AND VALPOLICELLA

Relais Duca di Rolle Bisol, Prosecco

In the gentle rolling hills of the Prosecco wine country, the wonderful Bisol winery have opened this darling little self catering complex in the hamlet of Rolle. About 50 minutes north of Venice, you are immersed in unspoiled countryside here. This is a fantastic option for big families travelling together as you can rent the various apartments and cook on your own in the fully equipped kitchens. There are also 2 great little restaurants in the hamlet. If you are on a budget and want to spend a few days in the wine country close to Venice, this is a stellar choice. Time it to correspond with the Cocofungo mushroom festival in October or the various wine festivals in the region. Don´t miss Bisol´s winery of course as well as the stately Villa Sandi.

More info on Bisol wine hotel here.

Villa Quar, Relais & Chateaux

The Valpolicella wine region is home to the famed Amarone and Recioto wines, and is a delight to visit. You can either use historic Verona as a base, or for something more romantic and original, you can stay right in the countryside (only 5 km from Verona). And great news- there is a marvelous Relais & Chateaux hotel awaiting you here. This five star luxury hotel is set inside a vential Villa and the Villa Quar is strikingly elegant. The villa itself is Italian patrimony, and breathes history and prestige. A n ancient stone wall encircles the breathtaking property, which encompasses its own vineyards used to make the hotel´s own wine (!) The gastronomic Arquade (2 Michelin stars) restaurant is world class and foodies from all over Northern Italy flock here. There are 28 room here, 10 of which are suites, and decor is classic Relais & Chateaux style. Rooms are stuffed with many antiques, too. Gorgeous and the ultimate destination for a wine tasting weekend in Valpolicella.

More info on Villa Quar, Relais & Chateaux here.

Prosecco wine region profile and Prosecco private tours.

Valpolicella wine region profile and Valpolicella private tours.

More Wine Hotels in SOUTHERN ITALY coming soon.

The mythical Piemonte wine family Gaja is celebrating its 150th anniversary this year at the annual wine fair Vin Italy. And what better way to celebrate it than with a fabulous wine tasting of Gaja´s best wines ever? This once in a  lifetime event will take place on Saturday April 4th at the Centro Congressi Europa in Verona. Internationally famous wine write Jancis Robinson will lead the spectacular and unique tasting of wines to include:  Gaia&Rey 1994, Darmagi 1997, Conteisa 1996, Sperss 1989, Sorì San Lorenzo 1988 and Barbaresco 1964!!!!!

Tickets will be available for sale soon, keep your eyes peeled on the Vin Italy website for details still to be released. Proceeds will go to charity (Fondazione Nuovo Ospedale Alba – Bra Onlus).

More info here.

WHEN TO GO- Vin Italy takes place from April 2-6 in the elegant Italian city of Verona.

WHERE TO STAY- In Verona, we love the historic Gabbia d´Oro with its charming period furniture and splendid location.

WHERE TO DINE- Verona is full of exceptional restaurants and we particularly love: Il Desco (think suckling pig with black truffles, cannoli stuffed with Burrata cheese and high end creative cooking); beautiful Maffei, an elegant restaurant set in a Baroque dining room; the convivial Bottega dei Vini (the risotto cooked in Amarone wine is straight from heaven!) and the trendy Ristorante al Cristo (sushi, Pintxos and creative cuisine dished out in a 16th century palazzo).

WHAT TO DO- In Verona, don´t miss the Roman Arena, one of the best preserved Ancient Roman remains in Italy; the Cathedral, Castle and Royal Gardens are all delightful, too; further afield you could visit the Amarone wine country; head to lovely Lake Garda; Venice is only a short distance….

MORE WINE EVENTS IN ITALY- here is a list of 2009 wine events including Vin Italy

Any time of the year is a good time to visit the wine country when it comes to drinking nice wines! But winter can be the most challenging season to visit as vineyards are dormant and bare (not lush and verdant, as in other times of the year), and many of Europe´s wine regions are covered in overcast and bleak skies. There are a few regions however that are just fabulous to visit in winter, and here are some nice ideas for wine lovers looking for that unforgettable winter wine tasting escape:

Alentejo, Portugal

The Alentejo is without a doubt one of our favorite wine regions in Europe. This unspoiled and breathtaking region features soft, rolling hills studded with cork trees and Moorish castles and is spotted with colonial style wine “quintas”. The scenery in Alentejo is reminiscent of the romantic savannas of “Out of Africa” and in winter, you can expect bright blue skies and invigorating cold weather. For a winter wine tasting break we suggest you use the Unesco heritage town of Évora as a base, visit a few wineries and enjoy some long leisurely wine lunches in cozy restaurants with open fireplaces.

Wineries to visit: Esporão, Monte Seis Reis, Herdade da Malhadinha are all favorites and can provide (paying) tours and tastings if you contact them beforehand to set up the appointments.

Alentejo winery consortium:Vinhos do Alentejo feature all kinds of wine region info on their website for self-drive trips (in Portuguese).

Where to stay: Our favorite hotel is definitely the romantic and luxurious Convento do Espinheiro, just outside Évora.

More Info on the Alentejo wine region

Luxury chauffeured wine weekends in Alentejo

Sherry Country, Spain

Jerez de la Frontera, the main wine town in the “Sherry lands” is a truly delightful little provincial capital. The benefit here is that the wineries are right in the historic center so you don´t need to drive and you can taste as many wines as you like! Most are in walking distance of each other through the pleasant center. Sherry wines are varied (finos, amontillados, palo cortados, and more) and quite strong, perfect on a sunny and cold winter´s day. The ideal winter wine weekend in Jerez would include winery tours, an excursion to beautiful Seville (one hour by train), and a lunch at La Mesa Redonda.

Wineries to visit: Sandeman (our favorite for private VIP tours), Pedro Domecq, Bodegas Tradición, Emilio Lustau, González Byass (Tio Pepe)

Sherry winery consortium: Consejo Regulador Denominacion De Origen Jerez Xerez Sherry

Where to stay: Our favorite hotel in Jerez is the Palacio de Garvey (which made it to our top ten wine hotels in Spain hotlist). The Villa Jerez is another refined little hotel, out of the center in a more residential neighborhood.

More Info on the Sherry wine region

Info on luxurious wine weekends in Seville and Jerez

Valtellina, Italy

The ultimate winter wine escape, Valtellina offers sunny blue skies, fluffy snowy mountains in winter and phenomenal red wines made with the Chiavennasca grape (cousin of Barolo´s Nebbiolo grape). The region is alpine, near the Swiss border and the perfect winter wine weekend could include winery visits and tastings, an excursion to pretty St Moritz (on the Swiss side) and an excursion by horse-drawn sled through the snow. The cuisine is FABULOUS, real mountain food and it perfectly accompanies the rich, velvety “Sforzato” wines.

Wineries to visit: None of the wineries have regular scheduled tours, so you will need to contact them individually to request a (paying) visit and tasting. We particularly love Nino Negri, Triacca, Rainoldi and Conti Sertoli Salis.

Valtellina winery consortium: Consorzio Vini Valtellini have information on the region, wineries and travel tips.

Where to stay: There are some wonderful spa hotels, perfect in winter. We love the Bagni di Bormio, a real destination hotel with wonderful soothing spa treatments and natural springs.

More Info on the Valtellina wine region

We organize luxurious chauffeured wine tasting weekends in Valtellina, more info here.

The Prosecco wine region in northeastern Italy is one of our favorite destinations and we are delighted to share with you some of our top picks from the region if you will be travelling to Prosecco:

Appellation(s)- The main appellation is DOC Prosecco di Conegliano-Valdobbiadene. Other ones in the Treviso-Conegliano-Valdobbiadene geographic triangle include: Prosecco DOC del Montello e dei Colli Asolani, Prosecco IGT dei Colli Trevigiana,  Prosecco IGT della Marca Trevigiana and Prosecco IGT del Veneto.

What to drink- Look out for “Prosecco Superiore di Cartizze” on the label. Top producers include Bisol, Zardetto, Villa Sandi, Carpenè Malvotti, Canevel, Ruggeri & C, Adami and Cantina Produttori di Valdobbiadene.

Wineries to Visit: The Prosecco consorzio have a lot of information on wineries that you can visit, contact them for info on self-drive trips.

Here are a few of our favorites-

Villa Sandi- one of the most architecturally appealing wineries in the entire area, Villa Sandi can offer tours for the general public by previous appointment (paying). More information on this beautiful estate here.

Bisol- Apart from the outstanding visits they do (by previous appointment and paying), Bisol also have a tiny inn located in a converted monastery should you like to stay over on their gorgeous property. More information on Bisol here.

Where to Stay:

Villa Cipriani in lovely Asolo is one of our favorite hotels in the area, luxurious and very quaint with stunning views.

Follina is home to two very elegant historic hotels, the Villa Abbazia (classic charm) and the Hotel dei Chiostri (more contemporary interiors).

Where to Dine:

Villa Sandi have a terrific restaurant close to the wine estate called the Locanda Sandi.

Trattoria alla Cima is one of our favorite little restaurants in the area, located in pretty Valdobbiadene

Try you hand at cooking at home with Prosecco, check out these recipes.

Luxury Private Wine Tours:

Cellar Tours offer private VIP tours for couples and groups by Mercedes sedan and vans to top cellars with special lunches and wine pairings included. More info on day trips from Venice here.

Special Events in the Prosecco Region:

21February – 8 March 2009- In Vidor, they hold a spring “Mostra” (showcasing) of Prosecco wines from the DOC. Info here.

21March – 13 April 2009- In Col San Martino, another spring wine festival takes place, information here.

11– 26 April 2009- this year the“Prosecco Brotherhood” will hold the 39th Cartizze and Valdobbiadene DOC Wine Festival. Info here.

24 April – 3 May 2009- the wine hamlet of Saccol, near San Pietro hosts the ultra high quality Cartizze and Valdobbiadene DOC Wine Show. Info here.

30 May – 14 June 2009-S. Pietro di Feletto ( a medieval hamlet with an ancient Camaldolesi monastery) is the host to the  Vini di Collina wine fair, info here.

26-28 September 2009- In Conegliano they hold an annual grape harvest festival (”Festa dell Uva) Info here.

More events in Prosecco here.

Last month, we were invited to Sardegna for a fantastic culinary competition and some touring on this gorgeous Italian island.

Here are some notes from our trip, by Simona Piccinelli, Italy Specialist:

On Thursday we arrived to fabulous Sardegna to participate in a culinary contest in the ancient Catalan town of Alghero. Nestled along the coastline in the northwest of the island near beautiful Capo Caccia and the other-worldly Grotta di Nettuno, Alghero is a popular resort on the Coral Riviera.  Our accommodation was a cozy agriturismo, run by an excellent extra virgin olive oil producer, San Giuliano.

San Giuliano have been making top quality olive oil since 1916, and this year they launched a wonderful new food and wine tourism initiative in Northern Sardegna. The idea was to promote their oils, the various local artisan food products, the wine estates and this specific corner of Sardegna through a high profile culinary contest. So, we were delighted to take part of this epicurean weekend! The invitees included five grand chefs, five journalists and ten tour operators (including us, Cellar Tours).

For the contest, there were five teams, with a chef as the leader of each team: Lorenza Carmignani Gigli from Tuscany, Barbara Roncarolo from Cucina magazine, Giovanna Ruo Berchera from Piedmont, Valeria Vocaturo from Rome, and Marilena Bergamaschi from Milan. Our team was the “Monte Sixeri” team led by the very talented Giovanna Ruo Berchera, and journalist Fabio Cavallari.

The rules of the game were laid out for us. The contest included the following challenge: search out and buy the best local products of each village, within a 30 km distance from the olive oil estate in order to create a traditional “Sardo” (Sardinian) recipe which enhances the olive oils.

So on Friday we travelled to Porto Torres and the Romangia area, famous for its seafood, wines, bread, olives, pastries and vegetables. We had a lot of fun driving through the beautiful countryside, meeting local people willing to help us with the treasure hunt, and searching for goodies in local farmers markets and tiny little shops. We visited the hilltopped villages of Sennori and Sorso, tasting local delights.  It´s a tough job, but hey!

The recipe our chef Giovanna decided on for the contest was “gnocchetti sardi con ragout di triglie, finocchietto e zafferano.”   We picked the wild fennel ourselves from a nearby pasture and we found the equipment to make handmade gnocchetti (called a “ciuliri”).

We spent Saturday morning in the kitchen, admiring the skills and abilities of the five chefs as they chopped, diced and dazzled. While the gastronomic jury was deciding on the winner, on Saturday afternoon, we toured some more around Sardegna with our new friend Daniele, introduced to us by Giovanni Greco of the luxurious Hotel El Faro , a luxury 5 star hotel with outstanding views over the crystalline sea. Daniele is very passionate and passionate about his native Sardegna. He drove us to the protected marine area of Capo Caccia , where  we even saw a wild boar running in front of us! Unfortunately it was drizzly and the sea was too tumultuous to visit the wonderful Grotte di Nettuno, so we went to the only natural lake in Sardinia  – Baratz lake – surrounded by pine woods on sand dunes, so high it looks like gentle hills. From there we drove in his 4×4 to the Porto Conte bay to admire the spectacular sunset, smelling all the wild herbs (mirto, timo,  origano, elicriso, acetosella, and finocchietto selvatico.)

We headed into beautiful Alghero next for an aperitif of Vermentino (one of the native grapes) at his restaurant and then he drove us back to the San Giuliano olive oil estate.  Saturday night we enjoyed the awards event. Although our team didn’t win (we were in 3rd place), we had a fabulous time!  We thought the quality of the food and wine was fantastic, and the hospitality of the people paired with the absolutely stunning scenery, have convinced us to offer new gastronomic tours in Sardegna.

Read about our culinary adventure (in Italian) in the local newspaper.

This past weekend we attended the phenomenal Merano Food and Wine Festival in Northern Italy. Held in this South Tyrolean spa town, elite food and wine producers from around the world descend on Merano for this fair. All we can say is we have a tough job! Here is a full report of what we saw, tasted and fell in love with:

About the Merano Wine Festival:

-It was launched on November 4th, 1992, as a platform for the absolute best selection of wines, presented by the producer/owner themselves.

- Each producer´s wines have to pass a rigorous selection tasting process in order to be present and only wines that get the highest ratings are there. The producers introduce new wine vintages not yet on the market.

- There are over 600 wine producers from Italy, France, Austria, Spain, Portugal, Chile, USA, etc

- Over 100 gourmet food producers from Italy

- 15 Michelin starred Italian chefs

- A simultaneous truffle auction takes place here at Merano at the same times as in Tokyo and Alba (see results of this year´s truffle auction here.)

The fair is huge and so we focused on specific events like- “Centum”, “Italia Excellentis” and Culinaria.

We spent a bit of time tasting the big names and famous regions like Tuscany, Franciacorta, etc, and LOVED-

Cabochon Franciacorta from Monterossa- vintage Franciacorta, made with Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, over 40 months on the lees, elegant, complex, rich nose, long aftertaste.

Ai Suma and Bricco della Bigotta from Braida

Lupicaia from the superb Castello del Terriccio estate in Northern Maremma

Setteponti - (their wine Oreno  was one of the wines for the wine auction held on Saturday http://www.grwineauction.com/)

La Quadratura del Cerchio from WineCircus - one of Roberto Cipresso´s projects (the famous Italian winemaker)

Then we focused on “lesser known” grapes, wines, regions:

Pignolo from Dorigo winery - Pignolo is one of the most ancient grapes and wines from Friuli; abandoned in the past as it gives very low yields. Dorigo started replanting it in 1976, now there are very few producers in Friuli making it (about 10), but they are increasing, as this is one of the best red wines you can find there.

Tazzelenghe 1999 La Viarte - Also a red native grape, its name means “Tongue stinging” or “Tongue cutting” as it has very strong tannins and needs age to smoothen out;  it is hard and rustic when young, but velvety and with very distinctive character after aging

Sciacchetrà Buranco - one of our favorites from the Cinque terre

Asprinio Grotta del Sole - Unusual white from Campania. It is an ancient indigenous grape from the Caserta subregion , in particular Aversa: It is cultivated using the “maritata” or “alberata” syste. This estate produces 2 sparkling wines-one Charmat method, light and very fruity, easy to drink (prosecco style); one with traditional method in the bottle (champagne style) that has strong orange notes on the nose, long lasting and small bubbles, very fresh in the mouth, creamy,  full bodied, long aftertaste, good acidity.Perfect to match with the fabulous fish products we tasted at the Culinaria Event from Trota Oro high quality fish from the Trentino region.

Tal Luc, Confini and Lis from Lis Neris -Lis is made with Chardonnay – Pinot Grigio – Sauvignon: it is complex, intense, unusual. Confini is made with Gewürztraminer, Pinot Grigio and Riesling, straw yellow, intense notes at the nose, with white fresh fruity hints; soft in the mouth, well balanced, full bodied, long aftertaste. Tal Luc is the sweet wine made with Verduzzo and a little bit of Riesling. Gold yellow, clean on the nose with strong notes of apricot, honey, vanilla. Sweet, but well balanced, intense and complex. Perfect with the exquisite blue cheese made with buffalo milk we tasted at Culinaria!

Pinot Nero and Essenzia from Pojer e Sandri -Pinot Nero aged in barrique. Clean, red fruits, tobacco and chocolate at the nose. Well balanced, full bodied, sapido. Essenzia, sweet wine made with a blend of Chardonnay, Sauvignon, Riesling Renano, Gewurztraminer, Kerner. With pourriture noble (noble rot). Very intense notes of ripe fruit at the nose, aromatic in the mouth, full bodied.

In the Culinaria section as mentioned above we tasted some AMAZING FOOD! Some of the foods we fell in love with and their producers include:

- Blue cheese made with real Buffalo milk, produced in Lombardy (see link above)

- Salame cotto and Lingua salmistrata from Salumi Migliorati – Via Gerrone 26010 Cremosano (CR) Tel. +39 0373 274407

- San Daniele  Ham from Bottega del Prosciutto-Levi Via Umberto I 2  – 33038 S.Daniele del Friuli (UD) – Tel. +39 0432 957043 (they have 5 pigs per hectare, free range in the woods)

- Soppressa from Salumificio Bazza – Via Fossetta 3 – 35020 Terrassa Padovana (PD) – Tel. +39 049 9501066

- Lardo from Lardo di Colonnata di Giannarelli Via Comunale di Colonnata 2 54033 Colonnata (MS) Tel. +39 0585 758093

- Rice from Cascina Veneria – Tenuta Veneria – 13034 Lignana (VC) – Tel. +39 0161 314233

- Capperi (Capers) patè and pesto, Capperi di Pantelleria, Cucunci from Bonomo and Giglio

- Mozzarella and Burrata cheese, served with parsimone cream

- Olives and  L’Olio Almeoli extra virgin olive oil

- Chocolate with Brunello wine from Via del Paradiso in Montalcino

- Celebrity chef Moreno Cedroni´s products like Salumi and Confezioni

Here are some tips for planning a visit to next year’s Merano Food and Wine Festival>

WHERE TO STAY IN MERANO:

5* Hotel Castel- 4 km from Merano, 5 star hotel, great restaurant, spa, cooking classes

4*  Castel Rundegg- once a castle, now a charming hotel with spa and Chenot treatments

4* Hotel Fragsburg- Relais & Chateaux with spa and cooking classes

4* Hotel Miramonti – Outside Merano, with outstanding views

WHERE TO EAT IN/AROUND MERANO:

- Sissi

- Hotel Frasburg´s excellent restaurant

- Hotel Castel´s Michelin starred Trenkenstube

- Rainer – on Via Portici 266, traditional

- Zur Rose- superb and the best in the region

WHAT TO DO IN MERANO-

- Spas and hot springs

- Walking and trekking, especially on the Tschögglberg (the “sunniest” mountain in Bolzano)

- Visit the Trauttmannsdorff Castle & Botanical Gardens

- November ‘Törggele’ Gourmet Experience

- Winter skiing, ice skating, sleigh rides, Christmas markets

Spain is home to some of the most fabulous wine regions in Europe (including La Rioja, Ribera del Duero, Penedès, Priorat, Sherry, Toro, Navarra, Somontano, Rias Baixas, Ribera Sacra, Rueda and many other appellations)  and more and more the concept of a wine hotel (either a working winery with accommodation or  a hotel set amid the vineyards) is taking off.  A list of some of the best wine hotels in Spain to help you plan your next wine tasting vacation in Spain-

Hacienda Zorita, Salamanca

The Hacienda Zorita is a romantic and relaxing estate (part of the Haciendas de España wine hotel chain, leaders in wine tourism in Spain) to enjoy a weekend break near the beautiful city of Salamanca. Read a full review of the hotel here. More info on hotel here.

More info on Salamanca

Hacienda Abascal – Ribera del Duero

Also belonging to Haciendas de España, the Abascal estate is located right on the “Golden Mile” in Ribera del Duero, home to such famed wine estates as Vega Sicilia, Arzuaga and Viña Mayor. The stunning Abadia Retuerta estate is around the corner, too, so this is a great based to explore some wineries for a few days. the Abascal has stylish rooms, a new and exciting restaurant called The Durius Café, run by mythical Spanish chef Sergi Arola. The views from nearly every point in this hotel are of vineyards and in autumn, it is simply gorgeous with the flaming red and orange leaves blanketing the plains. More info on the hotel here.

Hacienda Unamuno, Arribes del Duero

The smallest of the Haciendas de España group, and most intimate located in the dramatic Arribes del Duero wine country near the Portuguese border. This area is a protected nature reserve and pristine, and for a romantic and revitalizing weekend or even week long stay, this could be a fantastic base to explore the nearby wine country (Toro and Ribera del Duero are not far, and you can easily do day trips into Portugal as well as the historic city of Zamora). The “hotelito” is located inside a beautiful historic farmhouse, and is named after the philosopher Miguel de Unamuno. The vibe is very artsy and plenty of stressed out professionals from big cities come here to relax. Apart from winetasting onsite you can also do cheese tastings and olive oil tastings from their collection of properties. The hotel can arrange romantic picnics and private dinners for two as well. More info on the Haciendas de España website.

Can Bonastre in Penedès, close to Barcelona

This luxurious wine resort has extensive manicured grounds, views of the Montserrat mountains, an in-house beautiful winery, fashionable bedrooms, and a gourmet hotspot restaurant (called Tribia, this is the best restaurant in the region at present and you can expect goodies like exquisite Arbequina olive oil, and Rosé Cava from the Can Bonastre estate). What more could you ask for? Oh, and they have helipads for VIPs as well! The perfect base to use while exploring the Penedès wine country taking in visits to big names like Torres and Codorniu and boutique cellars like Albet i Noia and Jean Leon. Highly highly recommended hotel!  More info on Can Bonastre here.

More info on Penedès wine region

More info on wineries in the Penedès

Profile of Barcelona

Marqués de Riscal, El Ciego, La Rioja

The “ultimate” luxury wine hotel in Spain, here is our newsletter review of this stunning property designed by Frank Gehry (who also designed the Guggenheim museum in Bilbao, among numerous other high profile projects around the world).

More info on La Rioja wine region

City profile of Laguardia, located about 5 minutes from the hotel

Parador Monasterio de Santo Estevo, close to Ribera Sacra, Galicia

This newly inaugurated Parador hotel is FABULOUS and we used it as a base to discover the wine country of Ribera Sacra, Galicia´s most beautiful and undiscovered wine region.  The hotel is located in a historic Benedictine monastery that has been revamped with elegant and innovative decoration and the views from our room over the lush grounds are stunning. More info on hotel here.

Info on Santiago de Compostela, Galicia´s most beautiful town

Info on Rias Baixas, the most prominent Galician wine region

Pago de Cirsus, Navarra

Navarra is one of the least explored wine regions in Spain and yet one of the most interesting. You have stunning medieval towns like Olite with its spectacular castle, and miles upon miles of unspoiled wine country. The exclusive Pago de Cirsus hotel is for lovers of the “buena vida”. There is a 16^th century fortress, a high-end winery and an excellent restaurant (with a gastronomic focus on the best products of Navarra, especially vegetables). Expect beautiful grounds, luxurious rooms and a lovely garden. More info here.

Palacio de Garvey, Jerez (Sherry Country)

Jerez is unique in Spain in that the bodegas (wineries) are located right in the historic center, whereas the vineyards are spread out throughout various provinces. So you can go wine tasting right downtown, by foot! We love the Palacio Garvey hotel as it is in a prime, central location and it merges its palatial architecture with contemporary and ultra stylish decor. The restaurant is EXCELLENT with good wine service. Apart from Sherry wines you can also taste an array of superb red wines from beautiful Ronda, also in Andalusia. The Palacio Garvey has many special touches from complimentary wine upon arrival, clawfoot romantic bathtubs, and four poster beds with sublime sheets. Highly recommended if you are visiting Jerez.

Info on Jerez

Info on Sherry

List of wine producers to visit

Pago del Vicario, La Mancha

In the vast plains of La Mancha, land of Don Quixote, a vinous Renaissance is taking place with countless new winery projects (many whose investments are in the multi-millions of euros) and things are-a- shaking regards to wine tourism. One of the most interesting winery cum hotels is Paco del Vicario, whose rosé is one of the most exciting rosés in Spain. The hotel is decorated extremely tastefully with rich colors (burgundy, cream, eggplant, beige, gold, so forth) and modern flourishes (there are a few zebra stripes here). You can visit the winery of course while staying here, dine in the excellent restaurant and visit other wineries in the area. The beautiful town of Almagro, known for its wonderful classical theatre festival, is only 30 km from here and an easy half day excursion.

More info on Pago Vicario wine hotel

Palacio Canedo, Prada a tope Winery, Bierzo

Bierzo is the new “it” region in Spain, extremely exciting for wine lovers. It is also an unspoiled and very picturesque region located southeast of Galicia. The Prada a Tope winery is one of the oldest and most famous and they have an entire working farm making everything from wines to candied chestnuts to marinated peppers and much more. Whereas the other hotels in this list are quite luxurious and contemporary, the Palacio Canedo (the name of this winery´s rustic inn) is romantically rustic. The ideal time to come would be autumn, after harvest when the vineyards are at their most beautiful and when it is cold enough to light the onsite fireplaces.

More info on Palacio Canedo

More info on the Bierzo wine region

More info on Leon, a nearby Spanish city on the Saint James pilgrimage route

General information on Spanish Wine Regions

Coming next year- Abadia Retuerta Luxury Wine Hotel in Ribera del Duero, this will be fantastic! More info here.

Next year, there are an array of fantastic wine fairs and events in Italy, which could be a fun addition to your vacation. Here is a list of some of the best events as well as a mini travel guide by city:

VINITALY in Verona, April 2-6, 2009

The definitive Italian wine fair. Next year will be the 43rd anniversary of this huge International wine event and they are expecting a massive increase in attendance of both exhibitors (last year they had 150, 000 operators) and visitors. If you want to taste the creme de la creme wines from all over Italy and learn about regions you mightn´t have even ever heard of, this is THE wine event to attend.

More info on VinItaly

Where to stay: In Verona “centro storico”, our favorite hotel is the romantic 5* Gabbia d´Oro. a sumptuous countryside Relais & Chateaux hotel is the luxury 5* Villa Quar. Another idea is to sleep in Franciacorta wine country at the superb 5* L´Albereta. Apart from a beautiful hotel (also a Relais & Chateaux) set amid the vines,  Albereta has a fabulous spa, and the 2 Michelin starred Gualtiero Marchesi restaurant and can be used as a base for wine touring in both Franciacorta as well as Valpolicella, and you can come into Verona for a day to VinItaly.

What to do: If staying in Verona, don´t miss the Ancient Roman arena, and the historic center´s many charming squares and monuments. For private wine tours of Amarone producing estates, we offer Mercedes chauffeured tours.  Alternatively you can contact the Valpolicella Consorzio if you have your own car and want to visit on your own, they will tell you which estates open to the general public. Near Verona, Lake Garda and the wine region of Franciacorta are well worth a visit. And of course Venice is not far….

Vitigno Italia in Naples, May 2009

This wine fair in fascinating Naples is in its fifth year, and aims to promote wines of the Mediterranean as well as indigenous Italian grape varietals. Feudi di San Gregorio, one of the leading estates in Campania will lead one of the main conferences.

More info on Vitigno Italia

Where to stay: In Naples itself, the Grand Hotel Vesuvio has unbeatable views over the Castel dell´Ovo and Bay of Naples. It´s very elegant and classy. For something charming, boutique and a bit trendier the Micalo is great. You could also stay in Capri or the Amalfi Coast and come in to Naples to attend the wine fair.

What to do: In Naples you will taste the best pizza of your life and great spots include Brandi for a sit down and elegant pizza (where the Margherita pizza was invented) , as well as informal Da Michele which has been making pizza since 1870! Have spaghetti and clams at La Bersagliera near the Castle, and taste wines at the plentiful winebars in the fabulous Chiaia quarter. And under no circumstance should you miss the much underrated and stunning archaeological museum of Naples (with its Pompeii Erotica room) . Info on wine tourism in Campania.

Sicilia En Primeur- Spring 2009

This is THE premier annual wine event in Sicily. 2008´s event hosted top Sicilian wineries such as Abbazia Santa Anastasia, Benanti,  Cos, Cottanera, Cusumano, Donnafugata, Fazio, Feudo Arancio, Feudo Maccari, Firriato, Planeta, Tenute Rapitalà, Tasca D’Almerita and Valle dell’Acate. The venues are a range of palaces and monasteries. Highly recommended.

More info on Sicilia En Primeur

VIP Wine Tours in Sicily

Where to stay: In Palermo, we love Villa Igiea for its romance and luxury.  The Wagner is very comfortable and more central if you want to be right in the thick of it. there are various events and venues, so check the program before deciding on where to stay.

What to do: Depending on how long you come for, you could spend five days seeing the Western part of the island (visit medieval Erice and the Greek temple of Segesta; have lunch at the Charleston in the fishing village of Mondello; visit the wineries of Marsala; spend a day in wonderful Cefalù, obviously spend at least a day in Palermo, taking in the Cathedral and Vucciria market. If you had more time to see the Eastern part of Sicily, then don´t miss Taormina, Ragusa (and other Baroque jewels of Modica and Noto) and Siracusa (Syracuse). The Aeolian islands (Stromboli, Salina, etc) are also well worth a visit!

Oscar del Vino in Rome, June 2009

Yes, the “Oscars” for wine! Organized by the Associazione Italiana Sommelier Roma, it´s a great wine event and a fun addition to your trip to Rome if you will visiting in June.

More info on The Wine Oscars in Rome

Where to stay: We love Ferragamo´s Portrait Suites! For ultra luxury, the De Russie is our favorite. The Inn at Spanish Steps is also great for those looking for location on more of a budget.

What to do: For first time visitors to Rome, the “must do” visits include the Vatican, Colosseum, Ancient Roman Forum, Capitoline Museums and Trastevere. For 2nd time visitors with more time, what we love about Rome are its squares, fountains and gardens. Info on Rome here. You can also indulge in gourmet dining (3 Michelin starred La Pergola, Terraza del Eden, Baby at Aldrovandi, and many more), and wine tasting tours.

Photos of Rome

Mi Wine, Milan June 2009

Milan´s annual wine fair and industry “must” for Italian wineries. Unique opportunity to try wines from all over Italy including Lombardy such as Valtellina.

More info on Mi Wine

Where to stay: For ultra luxury, the Bulgari is an iconic fashion hotel. Straf is cool for minimalist zen and the Townhouse chain has a range of stylish hotels including the spectacular new Townhouse Galleria.

What to do: In Milan itself, don´t miss a visit to the Duomo! Very impressive. See the Cenacolo Vinciano (Leonardo’s Last supper) at the Santa Maria delle Grazie convent, go shopping in the gorgeous Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II (next to the Duomo) and visit the Castello Sforzesco and Pinacoteca di Brera art museum. For excursions out of town, you can go wine tasting to Piacenza or Franciacorta. Relax at Lake Como and visit the nearby art cities of Bergamo, Brescia and Pavia.

Alla Corte del Vino at the Fattoria Le Corti di San Casciano in Val di Pesa, Tuscany May 22-24 2009

This will be the 20th anniversary of this superb event concentrated on the wines of Tuscany. Highlights will include a vertical tasting of Ornellaia from 1988-2005,  a Champagne vs Spumanti tasting, and Syrah from around the World tasting

More info on Alla Corte del Vino and on the Pandolfini wine auction for children´s charity.

Where to stay: In Chianti we love 5* Castello del Nero for ultra luxury, it´s a converted castle in a vineyard, veeeeeeeeeery nice. In Florence our favorite hotel is 5* Relais Santa Croce for a glamorous and contemporary central hotel. Also excellent in Florence are 4* JK Place and 5* Lungarno (owned by Ferragamo).

What to do: When in wine country, go on a wine tour! Many cellars open to the general public if you make a previous appointment, here is the local Chianti Classico Conzorio link. For VIP wine tours, we organize Mercedes tours of Montalcino, Maremma, Montepulciano, San Gimignano and of course Chianti. Here is a sample luxurious Wine Connoisseurs Tour of Tuscany.

Vino Vip Cortina, August 2009

In the glam ski resort of Cortina d´Ampezzo, this small but prestigious wine event takes place for 2 days every August. Big names show their wines here from Tuscan giants Antinori, Banfi and Biondi Santi to Umbrian cellars like Falesco and Lungarotti to Veneto wineries like Masi and Trento gems like San Leonardo.

More info on Vino Vip Cortina

Where to stay: The Hotel & Spa Rosa Alpina is a Restaurant ‘Relais Gourmand’ and hotel in the nearby hamlet of  San Cassiano

What to do: This is the Dolomites, Italy´s most beautiful mountain range and paradise for nature lovers. There are some nice towns as well to visit, such as Belluno and hamlets like Pieve di Cadore (where Tiziano was born) You can take a boat ride on Lake Misurina and the cable car “Freccia nel Cielo” from Cortina, that travels to a height of over 10, 000 feet above sea level. For wine tasting, travel south towards Venice and take in some of the Prosecco wineries.

Salone del Vino in Turin, October 24-27, 2009

This is one of the biggest wine fairs in the north, taking place in wonderful Turin, one of Italy´s best kept secrets.

More info on Salone del Vino in Turin

Where to stay: In Piedmont´s Langhe wine region, our favorite hotels are the Villa and Relais San Maurizio (which also has a wine spa and Michelin starred restaurant).

What to do: Turin is home to some FABULOUS chocolate makers, the Egyptian museum and of course on the doorstep of Piedmont´s wine country. Piedmont is a food and wine lover´s PARADISE!. This is the home of Barolo, Barbaresco, some of Italy´s best cheeses, most spectacular restaurants (like Combal. Zero near Turin and Ciau del Tornavento) and the Slow Food movement, no less.

Merano Wine Festival, November 2009

This event takes place near Bolzano in Italy´s far north, in the heart of Trentino Alto Adige. It is one of the most exciting and best organized wine fairs in Italy.

More info on the Merano Wine Festival

Where to stay: Hotel Villa Tivoli in Merano is elegant with stylish rooms.

What to do: The Dolomites are to your east for taking in some nature and fresh air. For wine tasting, you can head south towards Trento and visit some of the wine estates there, info here. Further south you have Valpolicella and Lake Garda, why not combine the Merano wine festival with a culinary and wine weekend?

Fiera del Bue Grasso, December

While in Piedmont wine country, this event is actually a quirky food festival dedicated to the Cow, with a gastronomic celebration of the local Piemontese specialty “Bollito” at the excellent Moderno restaurant in Carrù.  More info (in Italian).

Sicily is a fascinating place to visit and actually merits MANY visits as there is simply so much to see and do. For a small taste of ideas for touring in Sicily- ski volcanic Mount Etna; see a lava “show” on Stromboli in the Aeolian islands; taste wine all over the island from Marsala to Vittoria to Etna itself; go snorkeling in Sicily´s myriad divers´ paradises (Lampedusa, Pantelleria, Aeolian islands, Egadi islands, Tindari and Riserva dello Zingaro, and so many more spots), go hiking in the Nebrodi mountains;visit saltworks near Trapani and fascinating tuna fisheries, see Ancient Greek ruins in Segesta, Selinunte, Agrigento, and Syracuse; visit Sicily´s Baroque gems (Ragusa, as below, Modica, Noto, Scicli); see Ancient Roman mosaics at Piazza Armerina; go cycling on the cycle paths from Siracusa to Ragusa, crossing the Iblei mountains; go “Canyoning” near Mount Etna; go wind surfing in colorful Mondello; visit fascinating cities like Palermo and Catania; and quaint towns such as Cefalù, Sciacca and Randazzo. But if for whatever reason you could only spend a short while in Sicily, then don´t miss these beautiful Sicilian towns, in the west, southeast and northeastern corners of the island:

ERICE

Erice, called the “city in the clouds” is extremely picturesque. Located in Western Sicily between Trapani and the beautiful Zingaro marine reserve, Erice is a  splendid little hamlet perched atop Monte San Giuliano with its lush pine forest. It features a medieval cluster of narrow laneways intertwining with charming squares, ancient stone houses and some stunning monuments. Imagine cobblestoned streets, castles, dramatic views over the sea, and wildflowers blossoming in the valley below. Erice has it all for such a small town, and is in easy reach of Palermo if you wanted to do a day trip.

WHAT TO SEE AND DO- Visit the 12th century Venus castle (a Norman castle built on the ruins of an Ancient temple dedicated to Venus, the goddess of love.) The views from the castle´s towers are incredible and its history is fascinating (over the centuries it´s been used as a dungeon, watchtower and governor´s mansion). The Chiesa Matrice, located near the Porta di Trapani entrance to the hamlet,  is a church dating back to the 14th century (although repaired extensively in the 18th century), and is worth a look. The Cyclopean walls (part of the city´s original ancient wall from the time of the Phoenicians) are partially intact and they extend over 2000 feet. The “Porta Spada”, gateway, still stands. Its name means “Sword gateway” and refers to a massacre that took place here during the rebellion of the 13th century against Angevin rule (called the “Sicilian Vespers“. From the Giardino del Balio gardens around the Venus castle, you have FABULOUS  views of the sea and the Egadi islands in the distance. A few miles from Erice, another point of interest is the Tonnara di Bonagia, with the Museo dellla Tonnara. This is a 17th century tuna fishery that you can visit (part of it is a historic hotel now, in what was their own self contained village.)

WINE TASTING ERICE- While in the area you must try the superb wines from the Fazio and Firriato estates. You can also visit some of the wineries in nearby Marsala, some open to the general public.  For private VIP tours, we offer Mercedes chauffeured wine tours in this area of Western Sicily.

WHERE TO STAY- while not in Erice itself, about an hour and a half´s drive you have the fabulous ultra luxury 5* Kempinksi spa resort, our favorite hotel in Western Sicily. It can be used as a base for visiting Erice as well as Marsala, the salt works of Trapani, Greek Segesta and wine tasting to top estates like Planeta. For something closer and not as extravagant, you could stay at the 17th century inn 3* Baglio Santa Croce.

WHERE TO EAT- Monte San Giuliano is a must, famed for its elegantly presented local cuisine and for its country chic atmosphere. A sublime and “must visit” bakery and patisserie is the Pasticceria Maria Grammatico.

RAGUSA

Ragusa is one of the Baroque jewels of the southeastern Sicily, located in the Unesco protected Valley of Noto (with other Baroque towns such as chocolate making Modica, Scicli, Noto and ceramic making Caltagirone).  The city is divided into two sections, the “new” Baroque Ragusa and quieter, wonderful Ibla. Much of this ancient town was destroyed in the famous 1693 earthquake which devastated this corner of the island, and was rebuilt in the Baroque period. We love Ragusa for its atmospheric location, decadent Baroque flourishes and for its stellar restaurants like the Michelin starred Il Duomo, a “must” while in Sicily (see below).

WHAT TO SEE AND DO- In Ragusa, the 18th century cathedral of St John the Baptist is definitely worth a visit. the Santa Maria delle Scale is a must, standing at the top of 340 steps (the name in fact means Saint Mary of the Steps) and connecting Ragusa to Ibla.  For lovers of the antiquities, there is a good archaeological museum in Ragusa. Then across in Ibla, the Duomo is very impressive. Set in peaceful Piazza Duomo, this church has a series of beautiful stained glass windows, and a collection of valuable paintings. We love the Giardino Ibleo, 19th century gardens. Pick up a bottle of the local Cerasuolo di Vittoria wine, some Ragusano cheese and freshly baked bread and have a romantic picnic here. Drive out of the town and admire it from many angles, don´t forget the camera as there are some spectacular panoramic views! Out of town, a nice visit is to the Donnafugata Castle, and the Sampieri beach.

WINE TASTING RAGUSA- there are some excellent wineries within the nearby Cerasuolo di Vittoria appellation (famous for rich red wines made with a blend of Nero d´Avola, Frappato and Pignatello grapes) such as Cos and Occhipinti, so keep your eyes out for those wines on local menus (and if you´d like to see the actual estates, you can contact us for private tours). Other wines from the southeast of Sicily beyond Ragusa´s provincial limits include the excellent Moscatos from Siracusa (Syracuse) as well as the Moscatos from Noto.

WHERE TO STAY- For ultra luxury and romance stay at Eremo della Giubiliana in a restored monastery outside of Ragusa (with modern touches like  a heli pad!).  For something quaint, also romantic and on a smaller scale, try Locanda Don Serafino, famous for its Michelin starred restaurant.

WHERE TO EAT- The best restaurant in Ragusa and possibly all of Sicily is the Michelin starred Il Duomo, where chef Ciccio Sultano offers culinary epiphanies. Don Serafino as mentioned above is also excellent. Another recommendation is the beautiful Ristorante  Baglio la Pergola, set in an elegant ancient “Baglio” (old farmstead/ villa).

TAORMINA

Taormina is located in an almost ridiculously picture perfect setting- atop a clifftop overlooking the sea, in the shadow of snow capped Mount Etna.  While dating back to Ancient Greek times (it was one of Sicily´s most important Greek settlements), most of the beautiful architecture, villas and gardens we can admire now date back to when Taormina was a playground for aristocrats doing the “Grand Tour“. It is simply the most captivating town in the island in our opinion, and in excellent condition as it remains on the wealthy stomping grounds for Europe´s jetsetters. Expect lush hillsides, outrageous villas, ancient ruins and many points of interests for history buffs, and some outstanding restaurants here, as well as some of the best hotels in Sicily.

WINE TASTING TAORMINA- the closest wine country is volcanic Mount Etna, where some of the most exciting wines in Italy are being produced. Top estates include Benanti, Tenuta delle Terre Nere, Cottanera and Biondi. Many celebrities and foreigners have flocked to Taormina and the Etna wine country: For example the singer for the band Simply Red  has a cult wine venture here (made by golden boy winemaker Salvo Foti, the wine is called Il Cantante, ie “the singer”). Some wine estates will allow visits if you request ahead of time, and of course we offer VIP tours to include both Taormina and the best wines of Etna.

WHAT TO SEE AND DO- Sightseeing highlights include an obligatory visit to the Ancient Greek Theatre located in an amazing natural amphitheater between mountain and the sea and overlooking Etna. Really and truly stunning place. Other places of interest include the Archaeological Museum and the Castello. For shoppers, Taormina is a paradise and you´ll find some of the best gourmet shops in Sicily (pick up sea salt from Trapani, olive oils, rare Passito and Moscato wines, chocolate from Modica and sooooooo many more goodies), excellent ceramics shops featuring traditional Sicilian ceramica, and some high end antique shops if you are looking for something unique. For nature lovers, hike down to Isola Bella, just below Taormina; it´s a protected marine reserve with crystalline waters that you can go swimming and snorkelling in. There are countless places to enjoy an aperitif or digestif with a view, and for silver screen glamour, have a (quite overpriced) cocktail at the Wunderbar.

WHERE TO STAY- Our two favorite hotels in Taormina are the 5* Palazzo San Domenico for its setting, history and opulence; and the newish very stylish 4* Villa Carlotta, without a doubt the best 4 star option in Taormina. While we don´t like the outdated rooms of the 5* Grand Hotel Timeo, its terrace bar (open to non residents) is simply GORGEOUS with direct views over the sea and Etna; a glass of bubbly here at sunset is a “must”.

WHERE TO EAT- Taormina has no shortage of restaurants and for an informal pizza or plate of scrumptious Pasta alla Norma, you have countless options on and around the Corso Umberto. You´ll find plenty of quaint trattorias and wine bars here, too. For fine dining, we love Al Duomo (great food and delightful location right in front of the pretty Duomo), the Michelin starred Principe Cerami Restaurant for food and elegant atmosphere  (inside the Palazzo San Domenico hotel, also open to non residents) and the wild creativity at Casa Grugno.

Campania is one of our favorite regions in Italy, so diverse and with such stunning countryside, coast and towns.  In this area of southern Italy, you’ll find the Amalfi Coast ,  the fascinating city of Naples, volcanic Pompeii, Capri, lesser known islands like Ischia and countless seaside hamlets.  Enjoy these short travel notes on Campania based on our various research trips and tours, to help you plan your next vacation:

CAMPANIA WINE APPELLATIONS-

DOCG:

Taurasi- the best Cru reds of Campania, and a lovely village
Fiano di Avellino- exquisite white wines, fullest bodied whites of all of Campania´s whites
Greco di Tufo- another stylish white brought to Campania by the Ancient Greeks

DOC:

Aglianco del Taburno
Aversa
Campi Flegrei
Capri
Castel San Lorenzo
Cilento
Costa d´Amalfi
Falerno del Massico
Gallucio
Guardia Sanframondi
Ischia
Penisola Sorrentina
Sannio
Sant´ Agata dei Goti
Solopaca
Vesuvio

TOP VINTAGES FOR TAURASI CRU WINES- 2001, 2000, 1999, 1998, 1997, 1993, 1990, 1988, 1985

CAMPANIA WINE GRAPES-

Main white grapes- Falanghina, Fiano, Greco, Coda di Volpe

Main red grapes- Aglianico, Piedirosso

A-Z Italian Grape Glossary

CAMPANIA TOP WINE ESTATES-

Antonio Caggiano

Caggiano is one of our favorites! This estate is beautiful (pristine vineyards, vaulted cellars, a little wine museum) and the wines are sleek and elegant. Caggiano´s Taurasi Vigna Macchia dei Goti is considered to be one of the best Taurasis in Campania, on a par with a very good Barolo. The white Fiagrè, made with Fiano and Greco, is a sexy white with a bewitching nose. Beautiful place, great wines. You can visit the local castle while in the area.

More info on Antonio Caggiano

Feudi di San Gregorio

The ultra modern Feudi di San Gregorio estate is one of the absolute best in Italy. LOcated in Sorbo Serpico (Avellino province), Feudi is incredible. They have an extensive line of red and white wines, using mainly indigenous varietals, and have a sparkling wine line made by superstar Riccardo Cotarella in conjunction with French Champagne god Anselme Seloss. The property is gorgeous and they have the best winery shop in the south. Also a superb restaurant, managed by 3 Michelin starred chef Heinz Beck.

More info on Feudi

Visit Feudi as part of a luxurious Amalfi Coast weekend wine tour

Mastroberardino

Called the “trailblazers of Irpinia”, Mastroberardino have their pretty wine cellar (not vineyards) in Altripalda. This family has been making wines since the late 1800´s.  Frescoes adorn the vaulted ceilings and they have a small shop where you to get some of their gems including the Radici cru, the colorfully named “Lacryma Christi” (which translates as “Tears of Christ”) and the Fiano based Vignadora. They also make wine on the volcanic soils of Pompeii, including the highly rated Villa dei Misteri. Mastroberardino have  a luxurious new small wine resort where you can sleep in the wine country if you want to visit a few cellars in the area.

More info on Mastroberardino winery

Their wine resort.

Montevetrano

This boutique winery was propelled into the international spotlight when Robert Parker coined it as the “Sassicaia of the south”. The winery is owned by Silvia Imparato who hired golden boy  Riccardo Cotarella to reconstruct her family´s vineyards located on a historic plot that had once belonged to the Bourbon monarchy. The first vintage was only in the early 90´s and it took the wine world by storm. The flagship Montevetrano is made with  60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot and 10% Aglianico Taurasi and is in the Colli di Salerno IGT appellation. The elegant estate is located near Salerno, in San Cipriano Picentino.

More info on Montevetrano

Mustilli

This is another of our favorite wineries in Italy.  The beautiful historic cellars are located in the 1000 year old village of Sant´ Agata dei Goti, whose villas hang off a dramatic cliff. Mustilli are credited for their important revival campaign for the native Falanghina grape, an Ancient Greek import to Campania, now making some of the freshest and loveliest white wines in the country. The patriarch Leonardo Mustilli wrote a book about the Falanghina, now considered to be the benchmark for reference. Winemaking has been in this family´s blood for over 500 years.  In the 16th century, the Mustilli ancestors arrived to this little village from Ravello and built the cellar, which is carved into the rockface. Today you can visit this historic cellar, and taste their excellent wines. Occasionally, the matriarch also hosts jazz music sessions in their little 17th century inn where you can stay.

More info on Mustilli

Villa Matilde

Another superb winery where Riccardo Cotarella is making sophisticated wines. Our favorites include the Falerno del Massico Bianco Cracci cru (made with 100% Falanghina-Falerna clone- aged in Alliers oak) and the single vineyard “Camarato (made with 80% Aglianico and 20% Piedirosso and winner of the prized Gambero Rosso Tre Bicchieri award). Villa Matilde has vineyards in the provinces of  Benevento (on the hills of Mount Taburno) and in Avellino (including the DOCG appellations of Fiano di Avellino and Greco di Tufo). The wine estate is remarkable, very beautiful and they have a luxurious small hotel as well.

More info on Villa Matilde

Viticoltori De Conciliis

Located in Prignano Cilento, southeast of the Ancient Greek settlement of Paestum and close tot he unspoiled national park of Cilento in southern Campania, this wine estate is a treat. Some of the wines we love include the Naima (intensely powerful Aglianico with 15% alc!) and the refined Donnaluna Fiano white. This part of Campania is more off the beaten track and a pleasure for nature lovers and foodies. You have some incredible beaches in this area, and some sublime Buffalo Mozzarella producers.

More info on Viticoltori De Conciliis

More wine producers (and food producers) in Campania

CAMPANIA RESTAURANTS-

Bacco Furore- We love this informal restaurant (in photo above) located on the Amalfi Coast in Furore and connected to the excellent Marisa Cuomo Gran Furor winery. Some highlights- marinated sald cod with wild fennel, Cavatelli with provola cheese and rucola and Chocolate covered fried eggplants! More info.

Don Alfonso 1890- Definitely the best high end restaurant on the Amalfi Coast, this Michelin starred ristorante is a legend and a “must” for foodies. Ask the sommelier if you can visit their historic wine cellar, awe inspiring. They have a new cooking school for those looking to learn some of the recipes, some of which date back to the Italian renaissance.

Eolo- Located in Amalfi town on the coast, inside the Marina Riviera hotel, this restaurant has a million dollar view! Expect fine cuisine, great views and service here.

Torre del Saracino- Another Michelin starred “must”.  Expect to see famous chefs and celebrities dining here. Chef Gennaro Esposito revives classic Campania recipes with a creative flair. More info.

Al Convento- Located in the wonderful authentic fishing village of Cetara, known for its “Colatura diAlici” (modern day version of Roman Garrum), the owner of this restaurant is one of the Amalfi Coasts´s best characters. A major promoter of “Slow Fish”, Pasquale also gives cooking classes using this ancient recipe. Traditional and highly recommended.

BUFFALO MOZZARELLA-

Vannullo is an EXCELLENT producer that you can visit. See the cheesemaking process, taste just-made buffalo mozzarella, ice cream and yogurt made with buffalo milk and visit the water buffalo.

CAMPANIA HOTELS-

For Silver Screen Glamour- the Palazzo Sasso is one of the most beautiful historic hotels in Italy with a gorgeous setting in Ravello.

Stylish, airy and youthful- For those looking for something more contemporary, Casa Angelina in Praiano is a Philippe Starck design hotel.

In Naples, for the best view in town, stay at the luxurious period hotel Grand Vesuvio, overlooking the castle and ther bay of Naples.

Other fabulous spots include Il San Pietro and Le Sirenuse in Positano, and Relais Blu in Massa Lubrense near the FABULOUS Quattro Passi restaurant.

WHAT TO SEE- Visit the beautiful towns on the Amalfi Coast including: Ravello, Positano, Amalfi, and Sorrento; don´t miss Naples, with its spectacular Archeological museum (including the erotic collection from Pompeii) and the world´s best pizza (taste pizza at Brandi); the islands of Capri and Ischia; the wine country; Ancient Roman settlements at Pompeii and Herculaneum, Ancient Greek settlement at Paestum; the “Versailles” of Southern Italy at Caserta.

WINE TOURS IN CAMPANIA AND AMALFI COAST- Some cellars open to the general public. Contact the Consorzio for more info. For private and VIP wine tours, we organize day excursions from Ravello, Positano and Naples and week long discovery tours of Campania.  More info on our Campania wine tours.

Photos of Campania