Cellar Tours Blog

Gualtiero Marchesi….

We could write countless words about Gualiero Marchesi, THE real Maestro of Italian cuisine, but we prefer to quote him directly on how he describes himself:

“I think of myself as a fundamentalist in my relationship with food, because the three fundamental principles “simple, good and beautiful” travel together and each one needs each other”.

In Milan, at Castello Sforzesco an exhibition dedicated to Marchesi opens on April 17:  the “leit motiv” will be number 7, as musical notes (because Marchesi loves music), as days of the week, as brushstrokes by Hsiao Chin on the Marchesi menu, now his logo.

There will be also works of art by artists Gualtiero Marchesi loves and has been inspired by including Lucio Fontana, Alberto Burri, Piero Manzoni, Giancarlo Vitali, Velasco, Enrico Baj, Hsiao Chin, and Salvatore Sava.

A new book has recently been released for this important occasion called “Marchesi si nasce” (a play on words, as Marchesi in Italian means Marquis), where he talks about his life, his cuisine, his dreams …

Notable eating in 2009- some of my favorite food experiences in Italy

by Simona Piccinelli, Italy specialist

Here is a compilation of the best dishes I tasted last year- a mix of high-end/creative/traditional/affordable/homey/expensive Italian cuisine:

1. Cuttle fish ink tempura style deep fried scallops with zucchini and clam sauce at Madonnina del Pescatore in the beautiful Marche region.

2. Fritto misto Piedmont style at Il Centro in Piedmont.

3. Suckling Pig from the Nebrodi mountains with chocolate sauce at Il Duomo in Sicily.

4. Spiedo alla Bresciana at Osteria del Maestrì in Lombardy.

5. Fiorentina (t-bone steak) with Tuscan style beans at Trattoria Toscana in Maremma.

6. Babà with wild strawberries at Torre del Saracino on the Amalfi Coast.

7. Traditional lasagne with Fassone breed beef at Locanda da Mariella in Emilia Romagna, gourmet heart of Italy.

8. Porcini mushrooms in grape leaves at Manuelina on the Italian Riviera.

9. Bread, black pepper and marsala wine risotto at D’O in Lombardy.

10. Vico tribute: monococco soup with cuttlefish ink, prawns tartare, mozzarella cream and basil at La Dispensa in Franciacorta.

11. Fish bbq at Taglio della Falce close to Ravenna.

12. Homemade tortelli di zucca with butter and sage made by my mum

Simona Piccinelli, our Italian food and wine specialist has put together a fabulous suggested week-long itinerary for gourmets wanting to eat their way through Northern  Italy’s best restaurants.  Pour a glass of Italian wine, grab a notebook and read on….

DAY 1- Fly into Milan, pick up car and drive east to the Franciacorta wine region. Check into the Albereta Relais & Chateaux hotel, set amid a vineyard.  Taste Franciacorta wines at La Dispensa or at the Bellavista estate. Tonight for dinner, enjoy dinner at your hotel in Gualtiero Marchesi’s phenomenal restaurant.

DAY 2- Drive to Bergamo, one of Northern Italy`s hidden gems. Explore the old town in the higher part of the city . Settle into a splendid lunch at 3 Michelin starred Da Vittorio. After lunch, take in some sightseeing in the città alta and head back to the Albereta wine resort.

DAY 3- On to Cremona, home of the Stradivarius and another delightful town off the main tourist track. Poke around the small town’s gorgeous churches and small museums and then head to the wonderful 3 Michelin starred Dal Pescatore for lunch. Mega treat. Digest your tasting menu on a charming walk through Mantova afterwards, yet another darling town and stomping grounds of the powerful Gonzagas.

DAY 4 – Shift gears and head to Lake Garda today. Drive to Torre del Benaco and take a cooking class with  Andrea and Lara at Le Gemme di Artemisia which will be lunch.  (This features in our Garda culinary weekend). Then visit the lake and head to Brescia, an unsung art town nearby where you can have a trendy aperitif. Dinner tonight could be at the beautiful 2  Michelin starred Miramonti L’Altro. Sleep at Albereta again tonight.

DAY 5 Work your way back to Milano today and visit the sights- cathedral, Brera, etc. Dine at the contemporary and hip 2 Michelin starred Sadler tonight. Sleep at the cute Petit Palais.

DAY 6- Drive south today to visit Pavia, with its stunning Certosa, monastic complex. Amazing and so close to Milan. Tonight for dinner, finish your top chefs tour of Italy with a divine cena at Trussardi. Sublime.

DAY 7- fly home and get your gym membership going again

MICHELIN STARS IN ITALY FOR 2010

FOODIE NEWSFLASH: This very morning the 2010 edition of the Michelin Red guide for Italy was presented in Milan at the Triennale and we couldn’t miss it!!

by Simona Piccinelli, Italy specialist and Milan correspondent

Just as Gualtiero Marchesi did last year, Ezio Santin (chef and owner of the Antica Osteria sul Ponte in Cassinetta di Lugagnano) has decided not to be in the Michelin guide, as quote “after 33 years under examination, we don’t think a guide can improve our work”.

Is this a new trend of big “grand old men” chefs rejecting the Michelin?

Is Michelin losing its power and authority?

We don’t know and will keep our eyes peeled on this, but in the meantime we are happy to announce that the new 3 star restaurant in Italy, Da Vittorio, is also one of our favorites. Not only for the excellence of their cuisine, but also because the Cerea family happen to also be extremely nice, professional, and generous people. We worked with them during some events and catering and I can really say that they have a special place in my heart!

So “bravo” to Francesco, Bruna, Chicco, Raffaella and Bobo! Father Vittorio (who passed away 4 years ago) would be so very proud of all of them.

The other 3 stars are a carry over from last year, so nothing new to report there. Here is the list of our faves and the dishes we liked most and would kill to try again:

1. Dal Pescatore di Canneto sull’Oglio (Mn)

chef Nadia Santini

Dishes:
Tortelli di zucca
Frog Legs with herbs

2. Enoteca Pinchiorri di Firenze

chef Annie Feolde

Dishes:

All about Burrata
“Agnolotti” filled with polenta and tossed with scampi, tomatoes and black olives

3. La Pergola di Roma

chef Heinz Beck

Dishes:
Lamb with artichokes with garlic purée, sweetbreads and pecorino cheese
Tortelli filled with lamb tossed with pecorino cheese and mint

4. Le Calandre di Rubano (Pd)

chef Massimilaino Alajmo

Dishes:

Cuttle fish cappuccino
Roquefort cheese mousse with iced strawberry crust

5. Al Sorriso di Soriso (No)

chef Luisa Valazza

Dishes:
Sorriso risotto, a dream come true for risotto lovers (like me!) with prawns, artichokes, pine nut kernel and saffron
Fassone beef braised with Barolo sauce

New 2 stars in Italy:

Antica Corona Reale – Cervere (Cuneo)
Piazza Duomo – Alba (Cuneo)
Il Pellicano -Porto Ercole (Grosseto)
La Madia – Licata (Agrigento)
Met dell’Hotel Metropol – Venezia
Il Mosaico – Casamicciola Terme, Ischia (Napoli)
Il Trenkerstube – Tirolo (Bolzano).

New restaurants with 1 star in Italy:

Andreini – Alghero (Sassari)
Kleine Flamme – Vipiteno (Bolzano)
Ortica -Bedizzole (Brescia).
Maxi – Vico Equense (Napoli).
Roof Garden – Bergamo
Vicolo Santa Lucia – Cattolica (Rimini).
L’accanto -i Vico Equense.
Baldin -Genova.
Hotel Cinzia (Vercelli).
Al Vigneto – Grumello del Monte (Bergamo).
Osteria del Pomiroeu – Seregno, Milano.
Sissi – Merano.
Antonello Colonna – Roma
Glass Hostaria – Roma.
Castel Fragsburg – Freiberg (Merano).
La Fenice – Ragusa
Le Robinie – Montescano (Pavia).
La Meridiana – Piove di Sacco (Padova).
Caffè Le Paillotes – Pescara.
Hostaria del Mare (Modena).
Il Piastrino – Pennabilli, Pesaro.
La Fornace – Barbablu di Noli (SV).
La locanda di Bu – Nusco (Avellino)

MICHELIN STARRED RESTAURANTS IN ITALY CLOSE THEIR DOORS

What made such an impression on me was the number of Michelin starred establishments that closed this year:

4 Mori in Varese, Locanda del Palazzo in Barile (Potenza), Via romana in Bordighera (Imperia), La Bitta nella pergola in Genova, Vesta in Tivoli (Roma), L’Acquamatta in Capolona (Arezzo),  Conti Roero in Monticelli d’Alba (Cuneo), Il Gallopapa in Castellina in Chianti (Siena),  Terrazza in Montecchio di Crosara (VR), L’Arsenale in Cavegnano d’Adda (LO), Castello Banfi in Montalcino (Siena), Fini in Modena.

MICHELIN INSPECTORS

Have you ever wondered how to become a Michelin inspector? Each inspector  travels over 30.000 km, has over 200 meals in restaurants and spends over 160 nights in hotels, per year. The majority of the inspectors come from hotel schools and/or is well-experienced in the hospitality business. After sending a request to the Red Guide, you will have a meeting with a senior inspector in a restaurant and after that you will have to write a report about restaurant details (service, mise en place, whether your neighbor´s plate was empty or not when he left, etc) and meal details (food quality, cooking, raw materials, etc). If you do a superb good job, you will spend some months in European restaurants with a senior inspector and finally you will be able to work on your own!

The 2010 guide will be released at all fine bookshops on November 26th.

The mythical Piemonte wine family Gaja is celebrating its 150th anniversary this year at the annual wine fair Vin Italy. And what better way to celebrate it than with a fabulous wine tasting of Gaja´s best wines ever? This once in a  lifetime event will take place on Saturday April 4th at the Centro Congressi Europa in Verona. Internationally famous wine write Jancis Robinson will lead the spectacular and unique tasting of wines to include:  Gaia&Rey 1994, Darmagi 1997, Conteisa 1996, Sperss 1989, Sorì San Lorenzo 1988 and Barbaresco 1964!!!!!

Tickets will be available for sale soon, keep your eyes peeled on the Vin Italy website for details still to be released. Proceeds will go to charity (Fondazione Nuovo Ospedale Alba – Bra Onlus).

More info here.

WHEN TO GO- Vin Italy takes place from April 2-6 in the elegant Italian city of Verona.

WHERE TO STAY- In Verona, we love the historic Gabbia d´Oro with its charming period furniture and splendid location.

WHERE TO DINE- Verona is full of exceptional restaurants and we particularly love: Il Desco (think suckling pig with black truffles, cannoli stuffed with Burrata cheese and high end creative cooking); beautiful Maffei, an elegant restaurant set in a Baroque dining room; the convivial Bottega dei Vini (the risotto cooked in Amarone wine is straight from heaven!) and the trendy Ristorante al Cristo (sushi, Pintxos and creative cuisine dished out in a 16th century palazzo).

WHAT TO DO- In Verona, don´t miss the Roman Arena, one of the best preserved Ancient Roman remains in Italy; the Cathedral, Castle and Royal Gardens are all delightful, too; further afield you could visit the Amarone wine country; head to lovely Lake Garda; Venice is only a short distance….

MORE WINE EVENTS IN ITALY- here is a list of 2009 wine events including Vin Italy

The Ten Best Pizzerias in Naples, by Simona Piccinelli, our Italy Specialist

This year, I decided to celebrate the New Year with some amici in Naples and I bet them that we would discover the best pizzeria in Naples by eating nothing but pizza for our entire five day stay. I won the bet (thanks to Sant’Antonio Abate, the patron saint of bakers?), although I might have put on a few extra kilos New Year’s Eve was the only day when almost all pizzerias are closed and so we welcomed in 2009 in the beautiful Piazza Plebiscito and Castel dell’Ovo, watching  spectacular fireworks, after a delicious seafood dinner.

Some notes from our Pizza Tour of Naples

“La Vera Pizza” of Naples has a few basic golden rules:

- it can only be cooked in wood burning brick ovens

- the crust has to be soft and light, that’s why the dough is made the day before it’s used, allowing the yeast to rise for at least 10/15 hours

- the pizzaiolo (pizza maker) must be a real maestro, the dough stretching technique is essential and you need at least 2/3 years of apprenticeship to become a pizzaiolo

- The pizzerias that make the traditional pizza “verace” are members of the Pizza Napoletana Association

We visited many many many pizzerias and now we can list our definitive 10 best pizzas in Naples :

1. Da Michele on Via Sersale, 13 – Tel +390815539204. Website here.

Let’s start with what some people may consider the inconveniences- the restaurant is rustic to say the least (almost spartan and very much “no frills”), no reservations are accepted, you always have to wait in line (we had 40 people before us!!) and they serve only 2 kinds of pizza. Nothing but the pizza margherita and pizza marinara here, using only fiordilatte cow´s milk and sweet , tantalizing San Marzano tomatoes. So why do we recommend this place? Because this is the best pizza in Naples in our opinion!!! Since 1870 the Condurros have been making pizzas for their hungry patrons, from  tourists, to local Napoletani to VIPs (they are particularly  proud they had the famous soccer player Maradona as an approving diner!)

2. Il Pizzaiolo del Presidente on Via Tribunali, 120/121Tel. +39081210903, web here.

Right in the heart of Spaccanapoli, the historic center of Naples, Signore Ernesto Cacialli welcomed us here with a huge smile. Pizzaiolo since the time he was 7 (!!!), Ernesto invited former US president Bill Clinton – who was in Naples for G8 – to taste his creations (back in 1994) and since then his pizzeria  (the “president´s” pizzeria) was re-named in his honor. Buono!

3. Brandi on Salita S.Anna di Palazzo, 1- 2 (angolo via Chiaia)Tel +39081416928, website here.

Close to the elegant Chiaia neighbourhood and to Piazza Plebiscito, this is where the mythical “pizza margherita” was invented. Although pizzas have apparently been around in one form or another since Ancient Roman times, Raffaele Esposito is credited with creating the Margherita. He worked at this very pizzeria (established in 1780) and in 1889 he was asked to bake 3 different kinds of pizza for the royal visit of King Umberto I and Queen Margherita of Savoy. The Queen’s favorite was a pizza that had the colors of the Italian flag: basil leaves for green, mozzarella for white, and tomatoes for red. Named Pizza Margherita in her honor, this is how this pizza is still universally known . Brandi is one of the more elegant and atmopsheric pizzerias and offer many traditional Napoletano side dishes as well. While Italians tend to drink beer with pizza, they offer some nice Falanghina white wines and Aglianico based reds here as well.

4. Di Matteo (Via dei Tribunali, 94 – tel +39081455262)

Founded in 1936 by Salvatore Di Matteo, the pizzeria was then managed by the “scugnizzi pizzaioli” (street urchin pizzaioli kids, usually  poor, going to school only when they had to and spending a lot of time hanging out in the narrow streets of Naples) that used to work for him.  Today, it is run by Raffaele Marigliano, who 50 years ago created an amazing pizza con alici e cicinielli (anchovies and newborn very very little fish, not produced any more). Here you cannot miss the pizza fritta, a deep fried pizza with ricotta cheese, provola cheese, tomato sauce and sugna (lard). Heaven on earth!

5. Pizzeria Trianon da Ciro on Via P. Colletta, 46 Tel: +39.081.5539426 , see website.

Established in 1923, this is a BIG  pizzeria, with 3 floors. Here you can find exquisite (made fresh daily) buffalo milk mozzarella as a topping as well as the full range of  pizza toppings you normally expect. They have 29 in their list and their specialty is salsiccia (Italian sausage) and friarielli (a kind of sprouting broccoli that grows only in the countryside around Naples, see photo below). Recommended.

6. Sorbillo on via Tribunali, 32 tel. +39081.446643 Website here.

This is another pizza “temple” in the “centro storico” of Naples; run today by daughter Anna Sorbillo, a member of the 21st generation pizza making family. Sorbillo can also deliver to your home or hotel (in historic center of Naples) and you can order on line.

7. Da Ettore (Via S. Lucia, 56 – tel +39081 7640498)

Right on the seafront, facing the pretty Castel dell’Ovo marina/fortress on the elegant Santa Lucia boulevard (where politicians, actors and tourists frequent) the pizza here is truly excellent.  But apart from pizza, they also excel in the “frittura all’italiana”, a sinfully delicious mix of deep fried aubergines (eggplant), zucchini, mozzarella, arancini (rice croquettes), cauliflower, potato croquettes, zeppulelle con alghe (salty doughnut-like fried thingie with seaweed).

8. Lombardi on via Foria, 12 tel +39081456220

Close to the FABULOUS archeological museum of Naples (with its fascinating Erotic room of Pompeii mosaics, and the Farnese collection), Pizzeria Lombardi was founded in the turn of the century by Enrico Lombardi who sold pizza in Brazil before setting up his pizzeria in Naples. Nowadays it is run by his grandsons Nando and Gigi. They offer also a variety of simple, perfectly executed dishes, but pizza is what you come for. Their specialty is pizza with smoked provola cheese. yummmmmmmmm.

9. Antica Pizzeria Port’Alba (Via Port’Alba, 18  – tel +390814421061)
This is the oldest pizzeria in Naples and Italy. Founded in 1738 as seller of street food, it became a real pizzeria in 1830. Vincenzo Luciano is the 5th generation to run the business.

10. La Notizia on Via Caravaggio, 53-55 – tel +390817142155

Named after the movie (the owner Enzo Coccia loves “Citizen Kane”), this pizzeria opens for dinners only, allowing time for the yeast to create the perfect dough. A real treat is the pizza bianca – without tomatoes – with scarola salad, aubergines (eggplant) and provola cheese. It is not located in a touristy neighborhood, but it is absolutely worth going to the upper part of the town to reach it. Authentic Napoli.

If you will be Pizza touring in Naples, and want to try even more pizzerias beyond this list, you´ll find a mega list of Pizzerias all over Campania here.

*******

Some handy info on Napoli-

WHEN TO GO – For major pizza lovers, Naples holds the annual Pizza festival in September (our favorite month to visit the beautiful Campania region anyway as the weather is still gorgeous and the summer crowds are gone). info on the festival here.

WHERE TO STAY- For a small and trendy hotel, try Micalo (darling, in the Chiaia quarter) and for seafront charm and luxury, the Grand Vesuvio is elegantissimo and very “old world”.

WHAT TO SEE/DO- Depending on how much time you have, “must visit” locations near Naples include: Positano, Ravello, Pompeii and Capri. Cetara (a real fishing village) , Vietri (hamlet specialized in beautiful ceramics), Paestum (3000 year old Greek temples) and the wine country of Campania are also highly recommended.

Any time of the year is a good time to visit the wine country when it comes to drinking nice wines! But winter can be the most challenging season to visit as vineyards are dormant and bare (not lush and verdant, as in other times of the year), and many of Europe´s wine regions are covered in overcast and bleak skies. There are a few regions however that are just fabulous to visit in winter, and here are some nice ideas for wine lovers looking for that unforgettable winter wine tasting escape:

Alentejo, Portugal

The Alentejo is without a doubt one of our favorite wine regions in Europe. This unspoiled and breathtaking region features soft, rolling hills studded with cork trees and Moorish castles and is spotted with colonial style wine “quintas”. The scenery in Alentejo is reminiscent of the romantic savannas of “Out of Africa” and in winter, you can expect bright blue skies and invigorating cold weather. For a winter wine tasting break we suggest you use the Unesco heritage town of Évora as a base, visit a few wineries and enjoy some long leisurely wine lunches in cozy restaurants with open fireplaces.

Wineries to visit: Esporão, Monte Seis Reis, Herdade da Malhadinha are all favorites and can provide (paying) tours and tastings if you contact them beforehand to set up the appointments.

Alentejo winery consortium:Vinhos do Alentejo feature all kinds of wine region info on their website for self-drive trips (in Portuguese).

Where to stay: Our favorite hotel is definitely the romantic and luxurious Convento do Espinheiro, just outside Évora.

More Info on the Alentejo wine region

Luxury chauffeured wine weekends in Alentejo

Sherry Country, Spain

Jerez de la Frontera, the main wine town in the “Sherry lands” is a truly delightful little provincial capital. The benefit here is that the wineries are right in the historic center so you don´t need to drive and you can taste as many wines as you like! Most are in walking distance of each other through the pleasant center. Sherry wines are varied (finos, amontillados, palo cortados, and more) and quite strong, perfect on a sunny and cold winter´s day. The ideal winter wine weekend in Jerez would include winery tours, an excursion to beautiful Seville (one hour by train), and a lunch at La Mesa Redonda.

Wineries to visit: Sandeman (our favorite for private VIP tours), Pedro Domecq, Bodegas Tradición, Emilio Lustau, González Byass (Tio Pepe)

Sherry winery consortium: Consejo Regulador Denominacion De Origen Jerez Xerez Sherry

Where to stay: Our favorite hotel in Jerez is the Palacio de Garvey (which made it to our top ten wine hotels in Spain hotlist). The Villa Jerez is another refined little hotel, out of the center in a more residential neighborhood.

More Info on the Sherry wine region

Info on luxurious wine weekends in Seville and Jerez

Valtellina, Italy

The ultimate winter wine escape, Valtellina offers sunny blue skies, fluffy snowy mountains in winter and phenomenal red wines made with the Chiavennasca grape (cousin of Barolo´s Nebbiolo grape). The region is alpine, near the Swiss border and the perfect winter wine weekend could include winery visits and tastings, an excursion to pretty St Moritz (on the Swiss side) and an excursion by horse-drawn sled through the snow. The cuisine is FABULOUS, real mountain food and it perfectly accompanies the rich, velvety “Sforzato” wines.

Wineries to visit: None of the wineries have regular scheduled tours, so you will need to contact them individually to request a (paying) visit and tasting. We particularly love Nino Negri, Triacca, Rainoldi and Conti Sertoli Salis.

Valtellina winery consortium: Consorzio Vini Valtellini have information on the region, wineries and travel tips.

Where to stay: There are some wonderful spa hotels, perfect in winter. We love the Bagni di Bormio, a real destination hotel with wonderful soothing spa treatments and natural springs.

More Info on the Valtellina wine region

We organize luxurious chauffeured wine tasting weekends in Valtellina, more info here.

The Prosecco wine region in northeastern Italy is one of our favorite destinations and we are delighted to share with you some of our top picks from the region if you will be travelling to Prosecco:

Appellation(s)- The main appellation is DOC Prosecco di Conegliano-Valdobbiadene. Other ones in the Treviso-Conegliano-Valdobbiadene geographic triangle include: Prosecco DOC del Montello e dei Colli Asolani, Prosecco IGT dei Colli Trevigiana,  Prosecco IGT della Marca Trevigiana and Prosecco IGT del Veneto.

What to drink- Look out for “Prosecco Superiore di Cartizze” on the label. Top producers include Bisol, Zardetto, Villa Sandi, Carpenè Malvotti, Canevel, Ruggeri & C, Adami and Cantina Produttori di Valdobbiadene.

Wineries to Visit: The Prosecco consorzio have a lot of information on wineries that you can visit, contact them for info on self-drive trips.

Here are a few of our favorites-

Villa Sandi- one of the most architecturally appealing wineries in the entire area, Villa Sandi can offer tours for the general public by previous appointment (paying). More information on this beautiful estate here.

Bisol- Apart from the outstanding visits they do (by previous appointment and paying), Bisol also have a tiny inn located in a converted monastery should you like to stay over on their gorgeous property. More information on Bisol here.

Where to Stay:

Villa Cipriani in lovely Asolo is one of our favorite hotels in the area, luxurious and very quaint with stunning views.

Follina is home to two very elegant historic hotels, the Villa Abbazia (classic charm) and the Hotel dei Chiostri (more contemporary interiors).

Where to Dine:

Villa Sandi have a terrific restaurant close to the wine estate called the Locanda Sandi.

Trattoria alla Cima is one of our favorite little restaurants in the area, located in pretty Valdobbiadene

Try you hand at cooking at home with Prosecco, check out these recipes.

Luxury Private Wine Tours:

Cellar Tours offer private VIP tours for couples and groups by Mercedes sedan and vans to top cellars with special lunches and wine pairings included. More info on day trips from Venice here.

Special Events in the Prosecco Region:

21February – 8 March 2009- In Vidor, they hold a spring “Mostra” (showcasing) of Prosecco wines from the DOC. Info here.

21March – 13 April 2009- In Col San Martino, another spring wine festival takes place, information here.

11– 26 April 2009- this year the“Prosecco Brotherhood” will hold the 39th Cartizze and Valdobbiadene DOC Wine Festival. Info here.

24 April – 3 May 2009- the wine hamlet of Saccol, near San Pietro hosts the ultra high quality Cartizze and Valdobbiadene DOC Wine Show. Info here.

30 May – 14 June 2009-S. Pietro di Feletto ( a medieval hamlet with an ancient Camaldolesi monastery) is the host to the  Vini di Collina wine fair, info here.

26-28 September 2009- In Conegliano they hold an annual grape harvest festival (”Festa dell Uva) Info here.

More events in Prosecco here.

Last month, we were invited to Sardegna for a fantastic culinary competition and some touring on this gorgeous Italian island.

Here are some notes from our trip, by Simona Piccinelli, Italy Specialist:

On Thursday we arrived to fabulous Sardegna to participate in a culinary contest in the ancient Catalan town of Alghero. Nestled along the coastline in the northwest of the island near beautiful Capo Caccia and the other-worldly Grotta di Nettuno, Alghero is a popular resort on the Coral Riviera.  Our accommodation was a cozy agriturismo, run by an excellent extra virgin olive oil producer, San Giuliano.

San Giuliano have been making top quality olive oil since 1916, and this year they launched a wonderful new food and wine tourism initiative in Northern Sardegna. The idea was to promote their oils, the various local artisan food products, the wine estates and this specific corner of Sardegna through a high profile culinary contest. So, we were delighted to take part of this epicurean weekend! The invitees included five grand chefs, five journalists and ten tour operators (including us, Cellar Tours).

For the contest, there were five teams, with a chef as the leader of each team: Lorenza Carmignani Gigli from Tuscany, Barbara Roncarolo from Cucina magazine, Giovanna Ruo Berchera from Piedmont, Valeria Vocaturo from Rome, and Marilena Bergamaschi from Milan. Our team was the “Monte Sixeri” team led by the very talented Giovanna Ruo Berchera, and journalist Fabio Cavallari.

The rules of the game were laid out for us. The contest included the following challenge: search out and buy the best local products of each village, within a 30 km distance from the olive oil estate in order to create a traditional “Sardo” (Sardinian) recipe which enhances the olive oils.

So on Friday we travelled to Porto Torres and the Romangia area, famous for its seafood, wines, bread, olives, pastries and vegetables. We had a lot of fun driving through the beautiful countryside, meeting local people willing to help us with the treasure hunt, and searching for goodies in local farmers markets and tiny little shops. We visited the hilltopped villages of Sennori and Sorso, tasting local delights.  It´s a tough job, but hey!

The recipe our chef Giovanna decided on for the contest was “gnocchetti sardi con ragout di triglie, finocchietto e zafferano.”   We picked the wild fennel ourselves from a nearby pasture and we found the equipment to make handmade gnocchetti (called a “ciuliri”).

We spent Saturday morning in the kitchen, admiring the skills and abilities of the five chefs as they chopped, diced and dazzled. While the gastronomic jury was deciding on the winner, on Saturday afternoon, we toured some more around Sardegna with our new friend Daniele, introduced to us by Giovanni Greco of the luxurious Hotel El Faro , a luxury 5 star hotel with outstanding views over the crystalline sea. Daniele is very passionate and passionate about his native Sardegna. He drove us to the protected marine area of Capo Caccia , where  we even saw a wild boar running in front of us! Unfortunately it was drizzly and the sea was too tumultuous to visit the wonderful Grotte di Nettuno, so we went to the only natural lake in Sardinia  – Baratz lake – surrounded by pine woods on sand dunes, so high it looks like gentle hills. From there we drove in his 4×4 to the Porto Conte bay to admire the spectacular sunset, smelling all the wild herbs (mirto, timo,  origano, elicriso, acetosella, and finocchietto selvatico.)

We headed into beautiful Alghero next for an aperitif of Vermentino (one of the native grapes) at his restaurant and then he drove us back to the San Giuliano olive oil estate.  Saturday night we enjoyed the awards event. Although our team didn’t win (we were in 3rd place), we had a fabulous time!  We thought the quality of the food and wine was fantastic, and the hospitality of the people paired with the absolutely stunning scenery, have convinced us to offer new gastronomic tours in Sardegna.

Read about our culinary adventure (in Italian) in the local newspaper.

This past weekend we attended the phenomenal Merano Food and Wine Festival in Northern Italy. Held in this South Tyrolean spa town, elite food and wine producers from around the world descend on Merano for this fair. All we can say is we have a tough job! Here is a full report of what we saw, tasted and fell in love with:

About the Merano Wine Festival:

-It was launched on November 4th, 1992, as a platform for the absolute best selection of wines, presented by the producer/owner themselves.

- Each producer´s wines have to pass a rigorous selection tasting process in order to be present and only wines that get the highest ratings are there. The producers introduce new wine vintages not yet on the market.

- There are over 600 wine producers from Italy, France, Austria, Spain, Portugal, Chile, USA, etc

- Over 100 gourmet food producers from Italy

- 15 Michelin starred Italian chefs

- A simultaneous truffle auction takes place here at Merano at the same times as in Tokyo and Alba (see results of this year´s truffle auction here.)

The fair is huge and so we focused on specific events like- “Centum”, “Italia Excellentis” and Culinaria.

We spent a bit of time tasting the big names and famous regions like Tuscany, Franciacorta, etc, and LOVED-

Cabochon Franciacorta from Monterossa- vintage Franciacorta, made with Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, over 40 months on the lees, elegant, complex, rich nose, long aftertaste.

Ai Suma and Bricco della Bigotta from Braida

Lupicaia from the superb Castello del Terriccio estate in Northern Maremma

Setteponti - (their wine Oreno  was one of the wines for the wine auction held on Saturday http://www.grwineauction.com/)

La Quadratura del Cerchio from WineCircus - one of Roberto Cipresso´s projects (the famous Italian winemaker)

Then we focused on “lesser known” grapes, wines, regions:

Pignolo from Dorigo winery - Pignolo is one of the most ancient grapes and wines from Friuli; abandoned in the past as it gives very low yields. Dorigo started replanting it in 1976, now there are very few producers in Friuli making it (about 10), but they are increasing, as this is one of the best red wines you can find there.

Tazzelenghe 1999 La Viarte - Also a red native grape, its name means “Tongue stinging” or “Tongue cutting” as it has very strong tannins and needs age to smoothen out;  it is hard and rustic when young, but velvety and with very distinctive character after aging

Sciacchetrà Buranco - one of our favorites from the Cinque terre

Asprinio Grotta del Sole - Unusual white from Campania. It is an ancient indigenous grape from the Caserta subregion , in particular Aversa: It is cultivated using the “maritata” or “alberata” syste. This estate produces 2 sparkling wines-one Charmat method, light and very fruity, easy to drink (prosecco style); one with traditional method in the bottle (champagne style) that has strong orange notes on the nose, long lasting and small bubbles, very fresh in the mouth, creamy,  full bodied, long aftertaste, good acidity.Perfect to match with the fabulous fish products we tasted at the Culinaria Event from Trota Oro high quality fish from the Trentino region.

Tal Luc, Confini and Lis from Lis Neris -Lis is made with Chardonnay – Pinot Grigio – Sauvignon: it is complex, intense, unusual. Confini is made with Gewürztraminer, Pinot Grigio and Riesling, straw yellow, intense notes at the nose, with white fresh fruity hints; soft in the mouth, well balanced, full bodied, long aftertaste. Tal Luc is the sweet wine made with Verduzzo and a little bit of Riesling. Gold yellow, clean on the nose with strong notes of apricot, honey, vanilla. Sweet, but well balanced, intense and complex. Perfect with the exquisite blue cheese made with buffalo milk we tasted at Culinaria!

Pinot Nero and Essenzia from Pojer e Sandri -Pinot Nero aged in barrique. Clean, red fruits, tobacco and chocolate at the nose. Well balanced, full bodied, sapido. Essenzia, sweet wine made with a blend of Chardonnay, Sauvignon, Riesling Renano, Gewurztraminer, Kerner. With pourriture noble (noble rot). Very intense notes of ripe fruit at the nose, aromatic in the mouth, full bodied.

In the Culinaria section as mentioned above we tasted some AMAZING FOOD! Some of the foods we fell in love with and their producers include:

- Blue cheese made with real Buffalo milk, produced in Lombardy (see link above)

- Salame cotto and Lingua salmistrata from Salumi Migliorati – Via Gerrone 26010 Cremosano (CR) Tel. +39 0373 274407

- San Daniele  Ham from Bottega del Prosciutto-Levi Via Umberto I 2  – 33038 S.Daniele del Friuli (UD) – Tel. +39 0432 957043 (they have 5 pigs per hectare, free range in the woods)

- Soppressa from Salumificio Bazza – Via Fossetta 3 – 35020 Terrassa Padovana (PD) – Tel. +39 049 9501066

- Lardo from Lardo di Colonnata di Giannarelli Via Comunale di Colonnata 2 54033 Colonnata (MS) Tel. +39 0585 758093

- Rice from Cascina Veneria – Tenuta Veneria – 13034 Lignana (VC) – Tel. +39 0161 314233

- Capperi (Capers) patè and pesto, Capperi di Pantelleria, Cucunci from Bonomo and Giglio

- Mozzarella and Burrata cheese, served with parsimone cream

- Olives and  L’Olio Almeoli extra virgin olive oil

- Chocolate with Brunello wine from Via del Paradiso in Montalcino

- Celebrity chef Moreno Cedroni´s products like Salumi and Confezioni

Here are some tips for planning a visit to next year’s Merano Food and Wine Festival>

WHERE TO STAY IN MERANO:

5* Hotel Castel- 4 km from Merano, 5 star hotel, great restaurant, spa, cooking classes

4*  Castel Rundegg- once a castle, now a charming hotel with spa and Chenot treatments

4* Hotel Fragsburg- Relais & Chateaux with spa and cooking classes

4* Hotel Miramonti – Outside Merano, with outstanding views

WHERE TO EAT IN/AROUND MERANO:

- Sissi

- Hotel Frasburg´s excellent restaurant

- Hotel Castel´s Michelin starred Trenkenstube

- Rainer – on Via Portici 266, traditional

- Zur Rose- superb and the best in the region

WHAT TO DO IN MERANO-

- Spas and hot springs

- Walking and trekking, especially on the Tschögglberg (the “sunniest” mountain in Bolzano)

- Visit the Trauttmannsdorff Castle & Botanical Gardens

- November ‘Törggele’ Gourmet Experience

- Winter skiing, ice skating, sleigh rides, Christmas markets

Next year, there are an array of fantastic wine fairs and events in Italy, which could be a fun addition to your vacation. Here is a list of some of the best events as well as a mini travel guide by city:

VINITALY in Verona, April 2-6, 2009

The definitive Italian wine fair. Next year will be the 43rd anniversary of this huge International wine event and they are expecting a massive increase in attendance of both exhibitors (last year they had 150, 000 operators) and visitors. If you want to taste the creme de la creme wines from all over Italy and learn about regions you mightn´t have even ever heard of, this is THE wine event to attend.

More info on VinItaly

Where to stay: In Verona “centro storico”, our favorite hotel is the romantic 5* Gabbia d´Oro. a sumptuous countryside Relais & Chateaux hotel is the luxury 5* Villa Quar. Another idea is to sleep in Franciacorta wine country at the superb 5* L´Albereta. Apart from a beautiful hotel (also a Relais & Chateaux) set amid the vines,  Albereta has a fabulous spa, and the 2 Michelin starred Gualtiero Marchesi restaurant and can be used as a base for wine touring in both Franciacorta as well as Valpolicella, and you can come into Verona for a day to VinItaly.

What to do: If staying in Verona, don´t miss the Ancient Roman arena, and the historic center´s many charming squares and monuments. For private wine tours of Amarone producing estates, we offer Mercedes chauffeured tours.  Alternatively you can contact the Valpolicella Consorzio if you have your own car and want to visit on your own, they will tell you which estates open to the general public. Near Verona, Lake Garda and the wine region of Franciacorta are well worth a visit. And of course Venice is not far….

Vitigno Italia in Naples, May 2009

This wine fair in fascinating Naples is in its fifth year, and aims to promote wines of the Mediterranean as well as indigenous Italian grape varietals. Feudi di San Gregorio, one of the leading estates in Campania will lead one of the main conferences.

More info on Vitigno Italia

Where to stay: In Naples itself, the Grand Hotel Vesuvio has unbeatable views over the Castel dell´Ovo and Bay of Naples. It´s very elegant and classy. For something charming, boutique and a bit trendier the Micalo is great. You could also stay in Capri or the Amalfi Coast and come in to Naples to attend the wine fair.

What to do: In Naples you will taste the best pizza of your life and great spots include Brandi for a sit down and elegant pizza (where the Margherita pizza was invented) , as well as informal Da Michele which has been making pizza since 1870! Have spaghetti and clams at La Bersagliera near the Castle, and taste wines at the plentiful winebars in the fabulous Chiaia quarter. And under no circumstance should you miss the much underrated and stunning archaeological museum of Naples (with its Pompeii Erotica room) . Info on wine tourism in Campania.

Sicilia En Primeur- Spring 2009

This is THE premier annual wine event in Sicily. 2008´s event hosted top Sicilian wineries such as Abbazia Santa Anastasia, Benanti,  Cos, Cottanera, Cusumano, Donnafugata, Fazio, Feudo Arancio, Feudo Maccari, Firriato, Planeta, Tenute Rapitalà, Tasca D’Almerita and Valle dell’Acate. The venues are a range of palaces and monasteries. Highly recommended.

More info on Sicilia En Primeur

VIP Wine Tours in Sicily

Where to stay: In Palermo, we love Villa Igiea for its romance and luxury.  The Wagner is very comfortable and more central if you want to be right in the thick of it. there are various events and venues, so check the program before deciding on where to stay.

What to do: Depending on how long you come for, you could spend five days seeing the Western part of the island (visit medieval Erice and the Greek temple of Segesta; have lunch at the Charleston in the fishing village of Mondello; visit the wineries of Marsala; spend a day in wonderful Cefalù, obviously spend at least a day in Palermo, taking in the Cathedral and Vucciria market. If you had more time to see the Eastern part of Sicily, then don´t miss Taormina, Ragusa (and other Baroque jewels of Modica and Noto) and Siracusa (Syracuse). The Aeolian islands (Stromboli, Salina, etc) are also well worth a visit!

Oscar del Vino in Rome, June 2009

Yes, the “Oscars” for wine! Organized by the Associazione Italiana Sommelier Roma, it´s a great wine event and a fun addition to your trip to Rome if you will visiting in June.

More info on The Wine Oscars in Rome

Where to stay: We love Ferragamo´s Portrait Suites! For ultra luxury, the De Russie is our favorite. The Inn at Spanish Steps is also great for those looking for location on more of a budget.

What to do: For first time visitors to Rome, the “must do” visits include the Vatican, Colosseum, Ancient Roman Forum, Capitoline Museums and Trastevere. For 2nd time visitors with more time, what we love about Rome are its squares, fountains and gardens. Info on Rome here. You can also indulge in gourmet dining (3 Michelin starred La Pergola, Terraza del Eden, Baby at Aldrovandi, and many more), and wine tasting tours.

Photos of Rome

Mi Wine, Milan June 2009

Milan´s annual wine fair and industry “must” for Italian wineries. Unique opportunity to try wines from all over Italy including Lombardy such as Valtellina.

More info on Mi Wine

Where to stay: For ultra luxury, the Bulgari is an iconic fashion hotel. Straf is cool for minimalist zen and the Townhouse chain has a range of stylish hotels including the spectacular new Townhouse Galleria.

What to do: In Milan itself, don´t miss a visit to the Duomo! Very impressive. See the Cenacolo Vinciano (Leonardo’s Last supper) at the Santa Maria delle Grazie convent, go shopping in the gorgeous Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II (next to the Duomo) and visit the Castello Sforzesco and Pinacoteca di Brera art museum. For excursions out of town, you can go wine tasting to Piacenza or Franciacorta. Relax at Lake Como and visit the nearby art cities of Bergamo, Brescia and Pavia.

Alla Corte del Vino at the Fattoria Le Corti di San Casciano in Val di Pesa, Tuscany May 22-24 2009

This will be the 20th anniversary of this superb event concentrated on the wines of Tuscany. Highlights will include a vertical tasting of Ornellaia from 1988-2005,  a Champagne vs Spumanti tasting, and Syrah from around the World tasting

More info on Alla Corte del Vino and on the Pandolfini wine auction for children´s charity.

Where to stay: In Chianti we love 5* Castello del Nero for ultra luxury, it´s a converted castle in a vineyard, veeeeeeeeeery nice. In Florence our favorite hotel is 5* Relais Santa Croce for a glamorous and contemporary central hotel. Also excellent in Florence are 4* JK Place and 5* Lungarno (owned by Ferragamo).

What to do: When in wine country, go on a wine tour! Many cellars open to the general public if you make a previous appointment, here is the local Chianti Classico Conzorio link. For VIP wine tours, we organize Mercedes tours of Montalcino, Maremma, Montepulciano, San Gimignano and of course Chianti. Here is a sample luxurious Wine Connoisseurs Tour of Tuscany.

Vino Vip Cortina, August 2009

In the glam ski resort of Cortina d´Ampezzo, this small but prestigious wine event takes place for 2 days every August. Big names show their wines here from Tuscan giants Antinori, Banfi and Biondi Santi to Umbrian cellars like Falesco and Lungarotti to Veneto wineries like Masi and Trento gems like San Leonardo.

More info on Vino Vip Cortina

Where to stay: The Hotel & Spa Rosa Alpina is a Restaurant ‘Relais Gourmand’ and hotel in the nearby hamlet of  San Cassiano

What to do: This is the Dolomites, Italy´s most beautiful mountain range and paradise for nature lovers. There are some nice towns as well to visit, such as Belluno and hamlets like Pieve di Cadore (where Tiziano was born) You can take a boat ride on Lake Misurina and the cable car “Freccia nel Cielo” from Cortina, that travels to a height of over 10, 000 feet above sea level. For wine tasting, travel south towards Venice and take in some of the Prosecco wineries.

Salone del Vino in Turin, October 24-27, 2009

This is one of the biggest wine fairs in the north, taking place in wonderful Turin, one of Italy´s best kept secrets.

More info on Salone del Vino in Turin

Where to stay: In Piedmont´s Langhe wine region, our favorite hotels are the Villa and Relais San Maurizio (which also has a wine spa and Michelin starred restaurant).

What to do: Turin is home to some FABULOUS chocolate makers, the Egyptian museum and of course on the doorstep of Piedmont´s wine country. Piedmont is a food and wine lover´s PARADISE!. This is the home of Barolo, Barbaresco, some of Italy´s best cheeses, most spectacular restaurants (like Combal. Zero near Turin and Ciau del Tornavento) and the Slow Food movement, no less.

Merano Wine Festival, November 2009

This event takes place near Bolzano in Italy´s far north, in the heart of Trentino Alto Adige. It is one of the most exciting and best organized wine fairs in Italy.

More info on the Merano Wine Festival

Where to stay: Hotel Villa Tivoli in Merano is elegant with stylish rooms.

What to do: The Dolomites are to your east for taking in some nature and fresh air. For wine tasting, you can head south towards Trento and visit some of the wine estates there, info here. Further south you have Valpolicella and Lake Garda, why not combine the Merano wine festival with a culinary and wine weekend?

Fiera del Bue Grasso, December

While in Piedmont wine country, this event is actually a quirky food festival dedicated to the Cow, with a gastronomic celebration of the local Piemontese specialty “Bollito” at the excellent Moderno restaurant in Carrù.  More info (in Italian).

Sicily is a fascinating place to visit and actually merits MANY visits as there is simply so much to see and do. For a small taste of ideas for touring in Sicily- ski volcanic Mount Etna; see a lava “show” on Stromboli in the Aeolian islands; taste wine all over the island from Marsala to Vittoria to Etna itself; go snorkeling in Sicily´s myriad divers´ paradises (Lampedusa, Pantelleria, Aeolian islands, Egadi islands, Tindari and Riserva dello Zingaro, and so many more spots), go hiking in the Nebrodi mountains;visit saltworks near Trapani and fascinating tuna fisheries, see Ancient Greek ruins in Segesta, Selinunte, Agrigento, and Syracuse; visit Sicily´s Baroque gems (Ragusa, as below, Modica, Noto, Scicli); see Ancient Roman mosaics at Piazza Armerina; go cycling on the cycle paths from Siracusa to Ragusa, crossing the Iblei mountains; go “Canyoning” near Mount Etna; go wind surfing in colorful Mondello; visit fascinating cities like Palermo and Catania; and quaint towns such as Cefalù, Sciacca and Randazzo. But if for whatever reason you could only spend a short while in Sicily, then don´t miss these beautiful Sicilian towns, in the west, southeast and northeastern corners of the island:

ERICE

Erice, called the “city in the clouds” is extremely picturesque. Located in Western Sicily between Trapani and the beautiful Zingaro marine reserve, Erice is a  splendid little hamlet perched atop Monte San Giuliano with its lush pine forest. It features a medieval cluster of narrow laneways intertwining with charming squares, ancient stone houses and some stunning monuments. Imagine cobblestoned streets, castles, dramatic views over the sea, and wildflowers blossoming in the valley below. Erice has it all for such a small town, and is in easy reach of Palermo if you wanted to do a day trip.

WHAT TO SEE AND DO- Visit the 12th century Venus castle (a Norman castle built on the ruins of an Ancient temple dedicated to Venus, the goddess of love.) The views from the castle´s towers are incredible and its history is fascinating (over the centuries it´s been used as a dungeon, watchtower and governor´s mansion). The Chiesa Matrice, located near the Porta di Trapani entrance to the hamlet,  is a church dating back to the 14th century (although repaired extensively in the 18th century), and is worth a look. The Cyclopean walls (part of the city´s original ancient wall from the time of the Phoenicians) are partially intact and they extend over 2000 feet. The “Porta Spada”, gateway, still stands. Its name means “Sword gateway” and refers to a massacre that took place here during the rebellion of the 13th century against Angevin rule (called the “Sicilian Vespers“. From the Giardino del Balio gardens around the Venus castle, you have FABULOUS  views of the sea and the Egadi islands in the distance. A few miles from Erice, another point of interest is the Tonnara di Bonagia, with the Museo dellla Tonnara. This is a 17th century tuna fishery that you can visit (part of it is a historic hotel now, in what was their own self contained village.)

WINE TASTING ERICE- While in the area you must try the superb wines from the Fazio and Firriato estates. You can also visit some of the wineries in nearby Marsala, some open to the general public.  For private VIP tours, we offer Mercedes chauffeured wine tours in this area of Western Sicily.

WHERE TO STAY- while not in Erice itself, about an hour and a half´s drive you have the fabulous ultra luxury 5* Kempinksi spa resort, our favorite hotel in Western Sicily. It can be used as a base for visiting Erice as well as Marsala, the salt works of Trapani, Greek Segesta and wine tasting to top estates like Planeta. For something closer and not as extravagant, you could stay at the 17th century inn 3* Baglio Santa Croce.

WHERE TO EAT- Monte San Giuliano is a must, famed for its elegantly presented local cuisine and for its country chic atmosphere. A sublime and “must visit” bakery and patisserie is the Pasticceria Maria Grammatico.

RAGUSA

Ragusa is one of the Baroque jewels of the southeastern Sicily, located in the Unesco protected Valley of Noto (with other Baroque towns such as chocolate making Modica, Scicli, Noto and ceramic making Caltagirone).  The city is divided into two sections, the “new” Baroque Ragusa and quieter, wonderful Ibla. Much of this ancient town was destroyed in the famous 1693 earthquake which devastated this corner of the island, and was rebuilt in the Baroque period. We love Ragusa for its atmospheric location, decadent Baroque flourishes and for its stellar restaurants like the Michelin starred Il Duomo, a “must” while in Sicily (see below).

WHAT TO SEE AND DO- In Ragusa, the 18th century cathedral of St John the Baptist is definitely worth a visit. the Santa Maria delle Scale is a must, standing at the top of 340 steps (the name in fact means Saint Mary of the Steps) and connecting Ragusa to Ibla.  For lovers of the antiquities, there is a good archaeological museum in Ragusa. Then across in Ibla, the Duomo is very impressive. Set in peaceful Piazza Duomo, this church has a series of beautiful stained glass windows, and a collection of valuable paintings. We love the Giardino Ibleo, 19th century gardens. Pick up a bottle of the local Cerasuolo di Vittoria wine, some Ragusano cheese and freshly baked bread and have a romantic picnic here. Drive out of the town and admire it from many angles, don´t forget the camera as there are some spectacular panoramic views! Out of town, a nice visit is to the Donnafugata Castle, and the Sampieri beach.

WINE TASTING RAGUSA- there are some excellent wineries within the nearby Cerasuolo di Vittoria appellation (famous for rich red wines made with a blend of Nero d´Avola, Frappato and Pignatello grapes) such as Cos and Occhipinti, so keep your eyes out for those wines on local menus (and if you´d like to see the actual estates, you can contact us for private tours). Other wines from the southeast of Sicily beyond Ragusa´s provincial limits include the excellent Moscatos from Siracusa (Syracuse) as well as the Moscatos from Noto.

WHERE TO STAY- For ultra luxury and romance stay at Eremo della Giubiliana in a restored monastery outside of Ragusa (with modern touches like  a heli pad!).  For something quaint, also romantic and on a smaller scale, try Locanda Don Serafino, famous for its Michelin starred restaurant.

WHERE TO EAT- The best restaurant in Ragusa and possibly all of Sicily is the Michelin starred Il Duomo, where chef Ciccio Sultano offers culinary epiphanies. Don Serafino as mentioned above is also excellent. Another recommendation is the beautiful Ristorante  Baglio la Pergola, set in an elegant ancient “Baglio” (old farmstead/ villa).

TAORMINA

Taormina is located in an almost ridiculously picture perfect setting- atop a clifftop overlooking the sea, in the shadow of snow capped Mount Etna.  While dating back to Ancient Greek times (it was one of Sicily´s most important Greek settlements), most of the beautiful architecture, villas and gardens we can admire now date back to when Taormina was a playground for aristocrats doing the “Grand Tour“. It is simply the most captivating town in the island in our opinion, and in excellent condition as it remains on the wealthy stomping grounds for Europe´s jetsetters. Expect lush hillsides, outrageous villas, ancient ruins and many points of interests for history buffs, and some outstanding restaurants here, as well as some of the best hotels in Sicily.

WINE TASTING TAORMINA- the closest wine country is volcanic Mount Etna, where some of the most exciting wines in Italy are being produced. Top estates include Benanti, Tenuta delle Terre Nere, Cottanera and Biondi. Many celebrities and foreigners have flocked to Taormina and the Etna wine country: For example the singer for the band Simply Red  has a cult wine venture here (made by golden boy winemaker Salvo Foti, the wine is called Il Cantante, ie “the singer”). Some wine estates will allow visits if you request ahead of time, and of course we offer VIP tours to include both Taormina and the best wines of Etna.

WHAT TO SEE AND DO- Sightseeing highlights include an obligatory visit to the Ancient Greek Theatre located in an amazing natural amphitheater between mountain and the sea and overlooking Etna. Really and truly stunning place. Other places of interest include the Archaeological Museum and the Castello. For shoppers, Taormina is a paradise and you´ll find some of the best gourmet shops in Sicily (pick up sea salt from Trapani, olive oils, rare Passito and Moscato wines, chocolate from Modica and sooooooo many more goodies), excellent ceramics shops featuring traditional Sicilian ceramica, and some high end antique shops if you are looking for something unique. For nature lovers, hike down to Isola Bella, just below Taormina; it´s a protected marine reserve with crystalline waters that you can go swimming and snorkelling in. There are countless places to enjoy an aperitif or digestif with a view, and for silver screen glamour, have a (quite overpriced) cocktail at the Wunderbar.

WHERE TO STAY- Our two favorite hotels in Taormina are the 5* Palazzo San Domenico for its setting, history and opulence; and the newish very stylish 4* Villa Carlotta, without a doubt the best 4 star option in Taormina. While we don´t like the outdated rooms of the 5* Grand Hotel Timeo, its terrace bar (open to non residents) is simply GORGEOUS with direct views over the sea and Etna; a glass of bubbly here at sunset is a “must”.

WHERE TO EAT- Taormina has no shortage of restaurants and for an informal pizza or plate of scrumptious Pasta alla Norma, you have countless options on and around the Corso Umberto. You´ll find plenty of quaint trattorias and wine bars here, too. For fine dining, we love Al Duomo (great food and delightful location right in front of the pretty Duomo), the Michelin starred Principe Cerami Restaurant for food and elegant atmosphere  (inside the Palazzo San Domenico hotel, also open to non residents) and the wild creativity at Casa Grugno.