By Simona Piccinelli, Italy Specialist

Imagine a tiny village set amid the Italian hills, 650 meters above sea level, hidden off the beaten track, but only minutes from Lake Iseo and the Franciacorta wine region.

Imagine a cozy place, where hosts Michele and Silvia warmly welcome you like a long lost friend, taking the time to explain to you their food, cuisine and general philosophy about life. Here you are not rushed, and you completely understand the true meaning of conviviality.

Imagine a wine list with a wide choice of local wines, carefully selected by Silvia from small wine producers. The wines are mostly only found in Italy and are offered at amazing prices.

Imagine an impressive cheese selection, from the area, but also from the rest of Italy and France. Michele knows each producer personally (you will find all their details on the menu). He tastes and picks each cheese as he knows well that each one is different and standardization has nothing to do with farmers production.

Imagine a delicious, never banal, local and traditional cuisine, from lakes, mountains and the planes, which have rescued lost and forgotten flavours. A cuisine where you can really taste the terroir, its peculiarities and singularities with a hint of modernization and personalitation.

Malfatti with Bagoss Cheese

Grilled Pigeon with Polenta

Freshwater Fish Fritto Misto

Imagine a restaurant where the industrialization of food (homogeneous, un-seasonal, repeatable) is blessedly absent here and all ingredients come from small farmers, where ZeroMiles food is a reality, where you have producers details of all ingredients on the menu if you want to go and buy directly, or simply know what you are eating. A restaurant which serves only meat from free ranged animals, who had a decent life.

Stop imaging as this place exists! Trattoria La Madia, near Brescia in Northern Italy, is a haven for foodies with a conscience.

And you, do you think eating is an agricultural act?

Do you think your food choices impact on agriculture, on how it is sustainable and ecological?

Do you eat responsibly?

Do you think at yourself as a consumer or a co-producer?

Check out this interesting piece on Eco Literacy by Wendell Berry and we would love to hear your opinion on this topic.

HOT NEWS:

New Three Stars- none, same as this year. These are:

Enoteca Pinchiorri in Florence

La Pergola dell’Hilton in Rome

Al Sorriso in Soriso

Da Vittorio in Brusaporto

Dal Pescatore in Canneto sull’Oglio

Le Calandre in Rubano

New Two Stars:

Jasmin  in Chiusa

Bracali in Massa Marittima

So the current list of restaurants in Italy that have 2 stars for 2011 are:

Antica Corona Reale da Renzo in Cervere

Duomo in Alba

Miramonti l’altro in Concesio

Sadler in Milan

Il Luogo di Aimo e Nadia in Milan

Cracco in Milan

Il Ristorante Trussardi alla Scala in Milan

Villa Crespi in Lake Orta

Combal Zero in Rivoli, Torino province

Piccolo Lago in Verbania

La Peca in Lonigno

Met in Venice

Perbellini in Isola Rizza (Verona)

Il Desco in Verona

Trenkerstube in Tirolo (Südtirol)

St Hubertus in Badia

Jasmin in Chiusa

Osteria Francescana in Modena

San Domenico in Imola

La Frasca in Cervia

Rigoletto in Reggiolo

Il Pellicano in Porto Ercole

Da Caino in Montemerano

Da Bracali in Massa Marittima

Il Pagliaccio in Roma

Il Mosaico dell’Hotel Manzi in Ischia

Don Alfonso in Sant’Agata dei due Golfi

Taverna del Capitano on Amalfi Coast

Quattro Passi in Nerano

Torre del Saracino in Vico Equense

Rossellinis at Palazzo Sasso, in Taormina

Il Duomo in Ragusa Ibla

La Madia in Licata

Restaurants awarded their first star:

Locanda del Pilone in Alba

Villa d’Amelia in Benevello

Osteria del Borgo in Borgosesia

L’Olivo in Capri

La Capanna di Eraclio in Codigoro

Le Petit Restaurant in Cogne

La Casa degli Spiriti in Cosermano

Il Papavero in Eboli

Bistrot in Forte dei Marmi

Pier Bussetti al Castello di Govone in Govone

Al Castello di Alessandro Boglione in Grinzane Cavour

Villa Maiella in Guardiagrele

La Cassolette in La Salle

Strada Facendo in Modena

Il Baluardo in Mondovi

La Locanda di Piero in Montecchio Precalcino

La Cantinella in Naples

The Cook in Nervi

Bye Bye Blues in Palermo (Mondello)

La Locanda del Notaio in Pellio Intelvi (Lake Como)

Il Postale in Perugia

Antica Corte Pallavicina in Polesine Parmense

All’Oro in Rome

Giuda Ballerino in Rome

Il Convivio Troiani in Rome

Il Povero Diavolo in Torriana

Locanda Margon in Trento

Enoteca Henri in Viarregio

Enoteca La Torre in Viterbo

Al Capriolo in Vodo Cadore

And the bad news:

Restaurants that went from 2 to one star:

Arquade in San Pietro In Cariano

And from 1 to no star:

La Siriola in Alta Badia

Cà Daffan  in Arzignano (closed)

Pinocchio in Borgomanero

MI LEAR in Briosco

Sole in Castel Maggiore

La Lucanda in Cavenago di Brianza

Il Gelso di San Martino in Cazzago San Martino

Lido Lido in Cesenatico (closed)

Il Postale in Città di Castello (closed)

La Cantinetta in Felino

Maso franch in Giovo

Al Bersagliere in Goito (closed)

La Mora in Lucca (closed)

Hosteria Giusti in Modena

Le Robinie in Montescano -MOVED TO DEPERO (STAR CONFIRMED THERE)

Gallura in Olbia

La Strega in Palagianello

Da Alceo in Pesaro

Baby in Rome

2 Colombe in Rovato – MOVED TO CORTEFRANCA (STAR CONFIRMED THERE)

Cà Vegia in Salice Terme (closed)

Mamma Rosa (closed) in San Polo d’Enza

A Spurcacciun in Savona

Al Caval in Torri del Benaco

by Ivano Martignetti

When I first started to reflect on this topic, I decided to ask my best friends if they had any idea. Most of them, spontaneously, answered it was their mother or their grandmother. Now, this is funny and interesting at the same time, because it shows how close to our heart and emotional food is for Italians and how subjective a rating can be for all of us..  Anyway, going back to the quest, to highlight the best female chefs in Northern Italy,  I have done  some seriously delicious research and I am sure you won’t be disappointed if you’ll go and try the creations of one of these food artists listed below, in random order:

Isa Mazzocchi, restaurant “La Palta”, Borgonovo Val Tidone (PC)

Isa Mazzocchi is a young chef on the move, many people are wondering why her restaurant has not been awarded with a Michelin star yet, but this just a detail.. Isa Mazzocchi is from the wonderful Tidone Valley around Piacenza and she is proud to transform her passion for her land into lively food creations. The restaurant she runs with her family is a warm place where you can go and taste her menus accompanied with a consistent list of wines from the area and beyond. Some fabulous photos here on Viaggatore Gourmet.

Luisa Valazza, restaurant “Al Sorriso”, Soriso (NO)

The story of Luisa Valazza, a dynamic chef whose restaurant is located in Piedmont,  is an example of bravery and persistence, as the three starred chef started her career 25 years ago out of an emergency! She was running her restaurant with her husband when the former chef decided to leave, that’s when she decided to do it herself, having only 10 days to get ready. The advice of chef friends and an incredible talent lead the restaurant to international success. One could say that the chef who left her in the lurch actually left her the most beautiful gift ever – discovery of her talent!

Photo Credit: JWillson@theage.com.au

Nadia Santini, restaurant “Dal Pescatore”, Canneto sull’Oglio (MN)

Portrayed in the international press as the “lady of Italian cuisine” or by French food critics as “the best chef in the world”, Nadia Santini is an example of total devotion to tradition and respect of the surrounding region and terroir. Her secret is in the profound knowledge of the raw ingredients and in the research of the best local ingredients, some of them coming from the kitchen garden between her restaurant and the “Oglio” river.

Antonia Klugman, restaurant “Antico Foledor” c/o Villa Lovaria, Pavia di Udine (UD)

A romantic love story, probably a good script for an Hollywood movie, Antonia Klugman could inspire the next food lovers movie hit, with a young woman studying to become a lawyer who falls desperately in love with cooking struck by an exhibition on TV of Catalan food God Ferran Adrià, gives up law school and embraces her new life as an apprentice. The story has also an happy ending, as Antonia Klugman, after learning from famous and renowned chefs found her own way and is now successfully running “Antico Foledor”, where she spoils her customers with inspired creations made of ingredients from her kitchen garden and an elegant but not intrusive oriental touch. Stay tuned..

Photo Credits: Luigi Cremona http://www.porzionicremona.it/info/

Paola Budel, restaurant “Venissa”, Isola di Mazzorbo (VE)

Another young chef, another talent to be proud of in the Italian culinary world, Paola Budel studied with mythic masters like Gualtiero Marchesi, also founder of the talent factory ALMA and Michel Roux. She then traveled the world to complete her profile and find new inspirations, coming back from London, Munich, Tokyo and Hong Kong with new dreams and ideas. After working in Milan she now stands out with her style and a precise belief, the use of exclusively km zero ingredients, which means different menus every day, depending on what the local farmers can provide her. This venue is unique in Venice and owned by top Prosecco producer Bisol.

Viviana Varese, restaurant “Alice”, Milano (MI)

Those who still believe that the best seafood restaurants are in cities near the coasts have not yet tried the specialties of Viviana Varese, chef of restaurant “Alice” in Milan. Viviana started to play around in the kitchen of her parents’ restaurant when she was a kid, her love for seafood is absolute and it’s impossible not to feel it when you finally taste her creations. Make it a priority next time you are in Milan.

Fabrizia Meroi. Restaurant “Laite”, Sappada (BL)

Fabrizia Meroi’s repertoire is an harmonic mix of creativity and tradition, testified by a Michelin star in 1997 and pursued learning first on her own and then with Enzo Da Pra and Vissani. A fairy-tale location in the Dolomites and a meticulous research for the right wines to match with her recipes, make Laite the perfect hideaway from the rest of the world; almost in paradise, considering the privilege of the experience…

Anna Matscher, Restaurant “Zum Loewen”, Tesimo

After all these beautiful stories, if you are struck by remorse for not having pursued your cooking dream, don’t give up! That’s what the story of Anna Matscher will teach you. She was working as a professional masseuse in Vienna when she met her future husband, who inherited a restaurant and shared with his wife the will to revolutionize their lives. Anna finally decided to pursue her dream, went to learn the basics from brilliant German chef Hans Haas and started her new life. She did very well for herself, as she’s now the only Michelin starred female chef in Alto Adige / Sud Tirol!

Aurora Mazzucchelli, Restaurant “Marconi”, Sasso Marconi (BO)

Another bright star, committed to emphasizing the quality of the local products carefully avoiding to fall into banality, striving for perfection in her artistic compositions, giving an harmonic touch to everything she creates. The effort made in the kitchen is certainly not spoiled by the wine selection, enriched by her deep appreciation of local rare wines and grape varietals which perfectly match with the chef’s pieces of culinary art.

Benedetta Parodi, “Cotto e Mangiato”, Celebrity TV Chef

This is a special mention not to lose contact with real, every day cooking; meals that any of us can enjoy trying to cook in his own kitchen. Benedetta Parodi, not a professional cook but a “cooking lover” for sure, deserves a mention in this article as she may not be at the same level of the mentioned chefs, but she certainly is a reference for any food lover in need of original ideas, and recipes that can be easily followed by beginners. She contributes to spreading culinary passion and knowledge for those who want to enjoy down to earth cooking,while still enjoying a remarkable food experience worthy of a starred restaurant.

We could write countless words about Gualiero Marchesi, THE real Maestro of Italian cuisine, but we prefer to quote him directly on how he describes himself:

“I think of myself as a fundamentalist in my relationship with food, because the three fundamental principles “simple, good and beautiful” travel together and each one needs each other”.

In Milan, at Castello Sforzesco an exhibition dedicated to Marchesi opens on April 17:  the “leit motiv” will be number 7, as musical notes (because Marchesi loves music), as days of the week, as brushstrokes by Hsiao Chin on the Marchesi menu, now his logo.

There will be also works of art by artists Gualtiero Marchesi loves and has been inspired by including Lucio Fontana, Alberto Burri, Piero Manzoni, Giancarlo Vitali, Velasco, Enrico Baj, Hsiao Chin, and Salvatore Sava.

A new book has recently been released for this important occasion called “Marchesi si nasce” (a play on words, as Marchesi in Italian means Marquis), where he talks about his life, his cuisine, his dreams …

by Simona Piccinelli, Italy specialist

Here is a compilation of the best dishes I tasted last year- a mix of high-end/creative/traditional/affordable/homey/expensive Italian cuisine:

1. Cuttle fish ink tempura style deep fried scallops with zucchini and clam sauce at Madonnina del Pescatore in the beautiful Marche region.

2. Fritto misto Piedmont style at Il Centro in Piedmont.

3. Suckling Pig from the Nebrodi mountains with chocolate sauce at Il Duomo in Sicily.

4. Spiedo alla Bresciana at Osteria del Maestrì in Lombardy.

5. Fiorentina (t-bone steak) with Tuscan style beans at Trattoria Toscana in Maremma.

6. Babà with wild strawberries at Torre del Saracino on the Amalfi Coast.

7. Traditional lasagne with Fassone breed beef at Locanda da Mariella in Emilia Romagna, gourmet heart of Italy.

8. Porcini mushrooms in grape leaves at Manuelina on the Italian Riviera.

9. Bread, black pepper and marsala wine risotto at D’O in Lombardy.

10. Vico tribute: monococco soup with cuttlefish ink, prawns tartare, mozzarella cream and basil at La Dispensa in Franciacorta.

11. Fish bbq at Taglio della Falce close to Ravenna.

12. Homemade tortelli di zucca with butter and sage made by my mum

Simona Piccinelli, our Italian food and wine specialist has put together a fabulous suggested week-long itinerary for gourmets wanting to eat their way through Northern  Italy’s best restaurants.  Pour a glass of Italian wine, grab a notebook and read on….

DAY 1- Fly into Milan, pick up car and drive east to the Franciacorta wine region. Check into the Albereta Relais & Chateaux hotel, set amid a vineyard.  Taste Franciacorta wines at La Dispensa or at the Bellavista estate. Tonight for dinner, enjoy dinner at your hotel in Gualtiero Marchesi’s phenomenal restaurant.

DAY 2- Drive to Bergamo, one of Northern Italy`s hidden gems. Explore the old town in the higher part of the city . Settle into a splendid lunch at 3 Michelin starred Da Vittorio. After lunch, take in some sightseeing in the città alta and head back to the Albereta wine resort.

DAY 3- On to Cremona, home of the Stradivarius and another delightful town off the main tourist track. Poke around the small town’s gorgeous churches and small museums and then head to the wonderful 3 Michelin starred Dal Pescatore for lunch. Mega treat. Digest your tasting menu on a charming walk through Mantova afterwards, yet another darling town and stomping grounds of the powerful Gonzagas.

DAY 4 – Shift gears and head to Lake Garda today. Drive to Torre del Benaco and take a cooking class with  Andrea and Lara at Le Gemme di Artemisia which will be lunch.  (This features in our Garda culinary weekend). Then visit the lake and head to Brescia, an unsung art town nearby where you can have a trendy aperitif. Dinner tonight could be at the beautiful 2  Michelin starred Miramonti L’Altro. Sleep at Albereta again tonight.

DAY 5 Work your way back to Milano today and visit the sights- cathedral, Brera, etc. Dine at the contemporary and hip 2 Michelin starred Sadler tonight. Sleep at the cute Petit Palais.

DAY 6- Drive south today to visit Pavia, with its stunning Certosa, monastic complex. Amazing and so close to Milan. Tonight for dinner, finish your top chefs tour of Italy with a divine cena at Trussardi. Sublime.

DAY 7- fly home and get your gym membership going again

MICHELIN STARS IN ITALY FOR 2010

FOODIE NEWSFLASH: This very morning the 2010 edition of the Michelin Red guide for Italy was presented in Milan at the Triennale and we couldn’t miss it!!

by Simona Piccinelli, Italy specialist and Milan correspondent

Just as Gualtiero Marchesi did last year, Ezio Santin (chef and owner of the Antica Osteria sul Ponte in Cassinetta di Lugagnano) has decided not to be in the Michelin guide, as quote “after 33 years under examination, we don’t think a guide can improve our work”.

Is this a new trend of big “grand old men” chefs rejecting the Michelin?

Is Michelin losing its power and authority?

We don’t know and will keep our eyes peeled on this, but in the meantime we are happy to announce that the new 3 star restaurant in Italy, Da Vittorio, is also one of our favorites. Not only for the excellence of their cuisine, but also because the Cerea family happen to also be extremely nice, professional, and generous people. We worked with them during some events and catering and I can really say that they have a special place in my heart!

So “bravo” to Francesco, Bruna, Chicco, Raffaella and Bobo! Father Vittorio (who passed away 4 years ago) would be so very proud of all of them.

The other 3 stars are a carry over from last year, so nothing new to report there. Here is the list of our faves and the dishes we liked most and would kill to try again:

1. Dal Pescatore di Canneto sull’Oglio (Mn)

chef Nadia Santini

Dishes:
Tortelli di zucca
Frog Legs with herbs

2. Enoteca Pinchiorri di Firenze

chef Annie Feolde

Dishes:

All about Burrata
“Agnolotti” filled with polenta and tossed with scampi, tomatoes and black olives

3. La Pergola di Roma

chef Heinz Beck

Dishes:
Lamb with artichokes with garlic purée, sweetbreads and pecorino cheese
Tortelli filled with lamb tossed with pecorino cheese and mint

4. Le Calandre di Rubano (Pd)

chef Massimilaino Alajmo

Dishes:

Cuttle fish cappuccino
Roquefort cheese mousse with iced strawberry crust

5. Al Sorriso di Soriso (No)

chef Luisa Valazza

Dishes:
Sorriso risotto, a dream come true for risotto lovers (like me!) with prawns, artichokes, pine nut kernel and saffron
Fassone beef braised with Barolo sauce

New 2 stars in Italy:

Antica Corona Reale – Cervere (Cuneo)
Piazza Duomo – Alba (Cuneo)
Il Pellicano -Porto Ercole (Grosseto)
La Madia – Licata (Agrigento)
Met dell’Hotel Metropol – Venezia
Il Mosaico – Casamicciola Terme, Ischia (Napoli)
Il Trenkerstube – Tirolo (Bolzano).

New restaurants with 1 star in Italy:

Andreini – Alghero (Sassari)
Kleine Flamme – Vipiteno (Bolzano)
Ortica -Bedizzole (Brescia).
Maxi – Vico Equense (Napoli).
Roof Garden – Bergamo
Vicolo Santa Lucia – Cattolica (Rimini).
L’accanto -i Vico Equense.
Baldin -Genova.
Hotel Cinzia (Vercelli).
Al Vigneto – Grumello del Monte (Bergamo).
Osteria del Pomiroeu – Seregno, Milano.
Sissi – Merano.
Antonello Colonna – Roma
Glass Hostaria – Roma.
Castel Fragsburg – Freiberg (Merano).
La Fenice – Ragusa
Le Robinie – Montescano (Pavia).
La Meridiana – Piove di Sacco (Padova).
Caffè Le Paillotes – Pescara.
Hostaria del Mare (Modena).
Il Piastrino – Pennabilli, Pesaro.
La Fornace – Barbablu di Noli (SV).
La locanda di Bu – Nusco (Avellino)

MICHELIN STARRED RESTAURANTS IN ITALY CLOSE THEIR DOORS

What made such an impression on me was the number of Michelin starred establishments that closed this year:

4 Mori in Varese, Locanda del Palazzo in Barile (Potenza), Via romana in Bordighera (Imperia), La Bitta nella pergola in Genova, Vesta in Tivoli (Roma), L’Acquamatta in Capolona (Arezzo),  Conti Roero in Monticelli d’Alba (Cuneo), Il Gallopapa in Castellina in Chianti (Siena),  Terrazza in Montecchio di Crosara (VR), L’Arsenale in Cavegnano d’Adda (LO), Castello Banfi in Montalcino (Siena), Fini in Modena.

MICHELIN INSPECTORS

Have you ever wondered how to become a Michelin inspector? Each inspector  travels over 30.000 km, has over 200 meals in restaurants and spends over 160 nights in hotels, per year. The majority of the inspectors come from hotel schools and/or is well-experienced in the hospitality business. After sending a request to the Red Guide, you will have a meeting with a senior inspector in a restaurant and after that you will have to write a report about restaurant details (service, mise en place, whether your neighbor´s plate was empty or not when he left, etc) and meal details (food quality, cooking, raw materials, etc). If you do a superb good job, you will spend some months in European restaurants with a senior inspector and finally you will be able to work on your own!

The 2010 guide will be released at all fine bookshops on November 26th.

The mythical Piemonte wine family Gaja is celebrating its 150th anniversary this year at the annual wine fair Vin Italy. And what better way to celebrate it than with a fabulous wine tasting of Gaja´s best wines ever? This once in a  lifetime event will take place on Saturday April 4th at the Centro Congressi Europa in Verona. Internationally famous wine write Jancis Robinson will lead the spectacular and unique tasting of wines to include:  Gaia&Rey 1994, Darmagi 1997, Conteisa 1996, Sperss 1989, Sorì San Lorenzo 1988 and Barbaresco 1964!!!!!

Tickets will be available for sale soon, keep your eyes peeled on the Vin Italy website for details still to be released. Proceeds will go to charity (Fondazione Nuovo Ospedale Alba – Bra Onlus).

More info here.

WHEN TO GO- Vin Italy takes place from April 2-6 in the elegant Italian city of Verona.

WHERE TO STAY- In Verona, we love the historic Gabbia d´Oro with its charming period furniture and splendid location.

WHERE TO DINE- Verona is full of exceptional restaurants and we particularly love: Il Desco (think suckling pig with black truffles, cannoli stuffed with Burrata cheese and high end creative cooking); beautiful Maffei, an elegant restaurant set in a Baroque dining room; the convivial Bottega dei Vini (the risotto cooked in Amarone wine is straight from heaven!) and the trendy Ristorante al Cristo (sushi, Pintxos and creative cuisine dished out in a 16th century palazzo).

WHAT TO DO- In Verona, don´t miss the Roman Arena, one of the best preserved Ancient Roman remains in Italy; the Cathedral, Castle and Royal Gardens are all delightful, too; further afield you could visit the Amarone wine country; head to lovely Lake Garda; Venice is only a short distance….

MORE WINE EVENTS IN ITALY- here is a list of 2009 wine events including Vin Italy

This year, I decided to celebrate the New Year with some amici in Naples and I bet them that we would discover the best pizzeria in Naples by eating nothing but pizza for our entire five day stay. I won the bet (thanks to Sant’Antonio Abate, the patron saint of bakers?), although I might have put on a few extra kilos New Year’s Eve was the only day when almost all pizzerias are closed and so we welcomed in 2009 in the beautiful Piazza Plebiscito and Castel dell’Ovo, watching  spectacular fireworks, after a delicious seafood dinner.

Some notes from our Pizza Tour of Naples

“La Vera Pizza” of Naples has a few basic golden rules:

- it can only be cooked in wood burning brick ovens

- the crust has to be soft and light, that’s why the dough is made the day before it’s used, allowing the yeast to rise for at least 10/15 hours

- the pizzaiolo (pizza maker) must be a real maestro, the dough stretching technique is essential and you need at least 2/3 years of apprenticeship to become a pizzaiolo

- The pizzerias that make the traditional pizza “verace” are members of the Pizza Napoletana Association

We visited many many many pizzerias and now we can list our definitive 10 best pizzas in Naples :

1. Da Michele on Via Sersale, 13 – Tel +390815539204. Website here.

Let’s start with what some people may consider the inconveniences- the restaurant is rustic to say the least (almost spartan and very much “no frills”), no reservations are accepted, you always have to wait in line (we had 40 people before us!!) and they serve only 2 kinds of pizza. Nothing but the pizza margherita and pizza marinara here, using only fiordilatte cow´s milk and sweet , tantalizing San Marzano tomatoes. So why do we recommend this place? Because this is the best pizza in Naples in our opinion!!! Since 1870 the Condurros have been making pizzas for their hungry patrons, from  tourists, to local Napoletani to VIPs (they are particularly  proud they had the famous soccer player Maradona as an approving diner!)

2. Il Pizzaiolo del Presidente on Via Tribunali, 120/121Tel. +39081210903, web here.

Right in the heart of Spaccanapoli, the historic center of Naples, Signore Ernesto Cacialli welcomed us here with a huge smile. Pizzaiolo since the time he was 7 (!!!), Ernesto invited former US president Bill Clinton – who was in Naples for G8 – to taste his creations (back in 1994) and since then his pizzeria  (the “president´s” pizzeria) was re-named in his honor. Buono!

3. Brandi on Salita S.Anna di Palazzo, 1- 2 (angolo via Chiaia)Tel +39081416928, website here.

Close to the elegant Chiaia neighbourhood and to Piazza Plebiscito, this is where the mythical “pizza margherita” was invented. Although pizzas have apparently been around in one form or another since Ancient Roman times, Raffaele Esposito is credited with creating the Margherita. He worked at this very pizzeria (established in 1780) and in 1889 he was asked to bake 3 different kinds of pizza for the royal visit of King Umberto I and Queen Margherita of Savoy. The Queen’s favorite was a pizza that had the colors of the Italian flag: basil leaves for green, mozzarella for white, and tomatoes for red. Named Pizza Margherita in her honor, this is how this pizza is still universally known . Brandi is one of the more elegant and atmopsheric pizzerias and offer many traditional Napoletano side dishes as well. While Italians tend to drink beer with pizza, they offer some nice Falanghina white wines and Aglianico based reds here as well.

4. Di Matteo (Via dei Tribunali, 94 – tel +39081455262)

Founded in 1936 by Salvatore Di Matteo, the pizzeria was then managed by the “scugnizzi pizzaioli” (street urchin pizzaioli kids, usually  poor, going to school only when they had to and spending a lot of time hanging out in the narrow streets of Naples) that used to work for him.  Today, it is run by Raffaele Marigliano, who 50 years ago created an amazing pizza con alici e cicinielli (anchovies and newborn very very little fish, not produced any more). Here you cannot miss the pizza fritta, a deep fried pizza with ricotta cheese, provola cheese, tomato sauce and sugna (lard). Heaven on earth!

5. Pizzeria Trianon da Ciro on Via P. Colletta, 46 Tel: +39.081.5539426 , see website.

Established in 1923, this is a BIG  pizzeria, with 3 floors. Here you can find exquisite (made fresh daily) buffalo milk mozzarella as a topping as well as the full range of  pizza toppings you normally expect. They have 29 in their list and their specialty is salsiccia (Italian sausage) and friarielli (a kind of sprouting broccoli that grows only in the countryside around Naples, see photo below). Recommended.

6. Sorbillo on via Tribunali, 32 tel. +39081.446643 Website here.

This is another pizza “temple” in the “centro storico” of Naples; run today by daughter Anna Sorbillo, a member of the 21st generation pizza making family. Sorbillo can also deliver to your home or hotel (in historic center of Naples) and you can order on line.

7. Da Ettore (Via S. Lucia, 56 – tel +39081 7640498)

Right on the seafront, facing the pretty Castel dell’Ovo marina/fortress on the elegant Santa Lucia boulevard (where politicians, actors and tourists frequent) the pizza here is truly excellent.  But apart from pizza, they also excel in the “frittura all’italiana”, a sinfully delicious mix of deep fried aubergines (eggplant), zucchini, mozzarella, arancini (rice croquettes), cauliflower, potato croquettes, zeppulelle con alghe (salty doughnut-like fried thingie with seaweed).

8. Lombardi on via Foria, 12 tel +39081456220

Close to the FABULOUS archeological museum of Naples (with its fascinating Erotic room of Pompeii mosaics, and the Farnese collection), Pizzeria Lombardi was founded in the turn of the century by Enrico Lombardi who sold pizza in Brazil before setting up his pizzeria in Naples. Nowadays it is run by his grandsons Nando and Gigi. They offer also a variety of simple, perfectly executed dishes, but pizza is what you come for. Their specialty is pizza with smoked provola cheese. yummmmmmmmm.

9. Antica Pizzeria Port’Alba (Via Port’Alba, 18  – tel +390814421061)
This is the oldest pizzeria in Naples and Italy. Founded in 1738 as seller of street food, it became a real pizzeria in 1830. Vincenzo Luciano is the 5th generation to run the business.

10. La Notizia on Via Caravaggio, 53-55 – tel +390817142155

Named after the movie (the owner Enzo Coccia loves “Citizen Kane”), this pizzeria opens for dinners only, allowing time for the yeast to create the perfect dough. A real treat is the pizza bianca – without tomatoes – with scarola salad, aubergines (eggplant) and provola cheese. It is not located in a touristy neighborhood, but it is absolutely worth going to the upper part of the town to reach it. Authentic Napoli.

If you will be Pizza touring in Naples, and want to try even more pizzerias beyond this list, you´ll find a mega list of Pizzerias all over Campania here.

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Some handy info on Napoli-

WHEN TO GO – For major pizza lovers, Naples holds the annual Pizza festival in September (our favorite month to visit the beautiful Campania region anyway as the weather is still gorgeous and the summer crowds are gone). info on the festival here.

WHERE TO STAY- For a small and trendy hotel, try Micalo (darling, in the Chiaia quarter) and for seafront charm and luxury, the Grand Vesuvio is elegantissimo and very “old world”.

WHAT TO SEE/DO- Depending on how much time you have, “must visit” locations near Naples include: Positano, Ravello, Pompeii and Capri. Cetara (a real fishing village) , Vietri (hamlet specialized in beautiful ceramics), Paestum (3000 year old Greek temples) and the wine country of Campania are also highly recommended.

Alentejo, Portugal

The Alentejo is without a doubt one of our favorite wine regions in Europe. This unspoiled and breathtaking region features soft, rolling hills studded with cork trees and Moorish castles and is spotted with colonial style wine “quintas”. The scenery in Alentejo is reminiscent of the romantic savannas of “Out of Africa” and in winter, you can expect bright blue skies and invigorating cold weather. For a winter wine tasting break we suggest you use the Unesco heritage town of Évora as a base, visit a few wineries and enjoy some long leisurely wine lunches in cozy restaurants with open fireplaces.

Wineries to visit: Esporão, Monte Seis Reis, Herdade da Malhadinha are all favorites and can provide (paying) tours and tastings if you contact them beforehand to set up the appointments.

Alentejo winery consortium:Vinhos do Alentejo feature all kinds of wine region info on their website for self-drive trips (in Portuguese).

Where to stay: Our favorite hotel is definitely the romantic and luxurious Convento do Espinheiro, just outside Évora.

More Info on the Alentejo wine region

Luxury chauffeured wine weekends in Alentejo

Sherry Country, Spain

Jerez de la Frontera, the main wine town in the “Sherry lands” is a truly delightful little provincial capital. The benefit here is that the wineries are right in the historic center so you don´t need to drive and you can taste as many wines as you like! Most are in walking distance of each other through the pleasant center. Sherry wines are varied (finos, amontillados, palo cortados, and more) and quite strong, perfect on a sunny and cold winter´s day. The ideal winter wine weekend in Jerez would include winery tours, an excursion to beautiful Seville (one hour by train), and a lunch at La Mesa Redonda.

Wineries to visit: Sandeman (our favorite for private VIP tours), Pedro Domecq, Bodegas Tradición, Emilio Lustau, González Byass (Tio Pepe)

Sherry winery consortium: Consejo Regulador Denominacion De Origen Jerez Xerez Sherry

Where to stay: Our favorite hotel in Jerez is the Palacio de Garvey (which made it to our top ten wine hotels in Spain hotlist). The Villa Jerez is another refined little hotel, out of the center in a more residential neighborhood.

More Info on the Sherry wine region

Info on luxurious wine weekends in Seville and Jerez

Valtellina, Italy

The ultimate winter wine escape, Valtellina offers sunny blue skies, fluffy snowy mountains in winter and phenomenal red wines made with the Chiavennasca grape (cousin of Barolo´s Nebbiolo grape). The region is alpine, near the Swiss border and the perfect winter wine weekend could include winery visits and tastings, an excursion to pretty St Moritz (on the Swiss side) and an excursion by horse-drawn sled through the snow. The cuisine is FABULOUS, real mountain food and it perfectly accompanies the rich, velvety “Sforzato” wines.

Wineries to visit: None of the wineries have regular scheduled tours, so you will need to contact them individually to request a (paying) visit and tasting. We particularly love Nino Negri, Triacca, Rainoldi and Conti Sertoli Salis.

Valtellina winery consortium: Consorzio Vini Valtellini have information on the region, wineries and travel tips.

Where to stay: There are some wonderful spa hotels, perfect in winter. We love the Bagni di Bormio, a real destination hotel with wonderful soothing spa treatments and natural springs.

More Info on the Valtellina wine region

We organize luxurious chauffeured wine tasting weekends in Valtellina, more info here.