By Simona Piccinelli, Italy Wine Tours Specialist

I was invited this autumn to visit the “wine roads” (Strada del Vino) of Castelli Nisseni recently in southeastern Sicily, and couldn’t refuse. Sicily is one of  my favorite places in Italy, if not in Europe. On this trip I discovered some great wine estates, restaurants, and landscapes. Some highlights included the Falconara Charming House & Resort (overlooking a Norman fortress, unique and luxurious), colorful markets with Sicily’s tantalizing bright fruits on display, the view up towards the Mazzarino castle, the Feudo Principi di Butera wine estate which is in easy distance of other fascinating sights in Sicily like the ancient Roman mosaics of Piazza Armerina and the town of Caltagirone (famed for its beautiful pottery) and as always when in Sicily, great food! We will be incorporating some of the places I visited into our luxury wine tours in Sicily.

See the best of Western Sicily’s wine country here and a terrific romantic food and wine tour of Eastern Sicily here.  And enjoy this photo report of my recent trip.

Hope to see you in Sicily!

Mazzarino O Cannuni - Mazzarino Castle

Street market Strata a' Foglia in Caltanissetta

"Fichi d'India"- Prickly Pears

And here the Fichi d'India are prepared at Ristorante Il Duomo in Caltanissetta

Feudo Principi di Butera wine estate

Hand making "Torrone" in artisan Torrone producer in Caltanissetta

Hand made lace in Mazzarino

Delicious local cheeses made by the Marco Farchica dairy

The Mayor of Mazzarino welcoming us

Falconara resort overlooking the castle and the sea, with tropical flora

Lovely rooms at the Falconara resort

Vine at the Laguveri estate in a Nature Reserve

Mr Alessi showing us traditional ricotta cheese containers, made with bamboo and called "cavagnedda"

Market traders

By Ivano Martignetti

Merano, or Meran as it is known in German (this is a border town in northern Italy), is a quaint little town off the beaten track in Alto Adige, where there are two words for everything and many things to experience, such as winter sports, fruit museums and culinary tours. But earlier this month Merano was completely dedicated to a unique event, where top quality is a must and style is everywhere: the Merano Wine Festival.

The first day of the festival was dedicated to organic and biodynamic wine producers and the quality of their wines impressed the lucky visitors including myself who had the opportunity to taste wines made from unusual grape varietials, like the “2009 La Vigna Ritrovata Colli di Scandiano e Canossa DOC”, made with 100% Spergola. This was a very fresh white wine obtained with the grapes cultivated in an ancient vineyard recovered by the owners of biodynamic producer  Tenuta di Aljano in Emilia Romagna.

Over the next three days the Kurhaus in Merano was the magnificent stage for the elite of Italian and foreign wines, where wine lovers came from every corner of Italy and Europe to taste some of the best wines in the world in a very elegant setting and vibrant atmosphere. Passionate producers and an impeccable organization made the Merano Wine Festival a success.

This is truly an event to put in your calendar next year if you missed this one and are an Italian wine lover.

Given the overall quality of the wines at the Festival it would be difficult to pick favorites, but we cannot resist in mentioning a few wines that were truly exceptional and highly recommended:

·    Alois Lageder Pinot Noir “Kraffus” 2007

·    Winecircus Pigreco Sicilia IGT 2006

·    Villa Matilde Camarato Falerno del Massico DOC 2007

·    Terroir al Lìmit Torroja – Vi de la Villa 2006

·    Marco Felluga-Rossiz Superiore Molamatta Bianco Collio DOC 2009

·   Guerila Roma 2007

Make a visit to the Merano wine fair a part of your overall visit to the fabulous wine regions of North East Italy. Some ideas for wine lovers include tours of Verona (including Trento, Valpolicella and Lake Garda appellations), Prosecco, and Friuli.

Some shots of the fair and the surroundings:

We talked to him about his experiences in Sicily, asking him what makes the island, its wines and its people so special.

CELLAR TOURS- What made you choose Sicily as the location of your latest book, what excited you?

ROBERT- Sicily to me is a dramatic, magical place with a strong sense of history and tradition. I love Italy but have watched in recent years much of Italy has lost a bit of its soul and traditions. This hasn’t happened yet in Sicily.  From a wine standpoint what is exciting is that while Sicily is Italy’s largest wine region – and one of its oldest—in the last few years there has been an explosive renaissance of a new generation of winemakers rediscovering what they have and dramatically upping the quality of wine.

CELLAR TOURS- What is unique about Sicily, what can you find there in terms of terroir, winemaking techniques and methods that you can´t find in other places?

ROBERT- Sicily is unique in the sheer diversity of its terroirs and indigenous grapes. The best wines don’t taste at all like what you expect from southern wines—they are long and elegant and not at all heavy or jammy. This is true of the wines from the high slopes around volcanic Mount Etna to the rolling hills of the interior and the sloping hills of the southern coast. Then of course there is traditional Marsala, and brilliant sweet white wines from the Lipari islands and Pantelleria. In terms of winemaking techniques you can find everything from traditional palmenti—the old stone winemaking huts—to small artisanal producers to large state-of-the art wineries. Around Vittoria, COS is Italy’s number one producer making wines in clay amphorae as the Greeks and Romans did.  I think Sicily also benefits from having its renaissance after the whole craze of high alcohol woody wines.

CELLAR TOURS- Which appellations, or general wine producing areas of Sicily are your personal favorites and which of the local grape varietals do you enjoy most?

ROBERT- Mount Etna has to be my favorite wine producing area. There is the highest concentration of quality producers—from Sicily as well as transplants from Tuscany, The Piedmont and other parts of Italy and Europe. The local Nerello Mascalese grape makes some of Italy’s most interesting reds often compared with Nebbiolo. In Vittoria the beautiful blending of Frappato and Nero D’Avola makes Cerasuolo di Vittoria—balanced easy drinking wines that have been grossly underrated by the critics.  For white wines, I love Carricante from Etna — crisp and full of minerals.

CELLAR TOURS- Can you offer our readers any tips for enjoying the wine country in Sicily in terms of wines to look out for, favorite restaurants, etc?

ROBERT- I think in the last 10 years Sicily has developed a real wine culture that is booming with its restaurant scene. (Though Sicily has some of Italy’s most elaborate cuisines, restaurants were pretty much a last resort for travelers).  For some of the most interesting wines, I would say to take a look at my book, which opens over a meal at one of my favorite restaurants—Sakalleo, a seafood and pasta lover’s dream on the southeastern coast in Scoglitti. A don’t miss restaurants for wine lovers is Nero D’Avola in Taormina. On Etna go to Boccaperta in Linguaglossa.  For high gastronomy the place is La Madia in Licata (near Agrigento).

CELLAR TOURS- What do you think the pros and cons of visiting Sicily are and would you suggest it as a destination for wine lovers?

ROBERT- Sicilians are wonderfully hospitable people. It’s a great place to discover wines and grapes you probably haven’t heard of in settings that are authentic. The cons for some people are that there are few structured “winery tours” are few and far between. There are no gift shops with t-shirts and ball caps and souvenir wine glasses.

CELLAR TOURS- How does Sicily differ from other Italian wine making regions like Tuscany, and what does it offer visitors in terms of food, wine and scenery?

ROBERT- I have been travelling to Tuscany for 25 years, and I think that parts of Tuscany have lost some of their originality drowned by too much tourism—Chiantishire.  Sicily is still comparatively wild with an incredible concentration history spanning a few thousand years—from Greek theaters to Arabo-Norman palaces. The street markets in Palermo are the most colorful I have ever been to.  The influences in the cuisines (you have to use the plural when talking about Sicily) combine sweet and savory to incredible effect. I love, for example, the orange salads of winter (with olives and onions and olive oil) or the traditional dishes like pasta con sarde, or just going to a café for a lunch of arancine (rice balls) followed by a cold granita.

CELLAR TOURS- If you had to pick one favorite place in Sicily, it would be…..

ROBERT- I am partial to the eastern side of the island: Mount Etna, the sea, Catania, ferries that will take you to the outer islands—all within an hour of each other.

Thank you. Robert for your insight and tips, it was a pleasure!

Wine lovers, why not add one or both of these terrific books to your gifts list for the holidays?

By Ivano Martignetti

The most elegant and exclusive wine event in Italy is just around the corner, from the 5th to the 8th of November, the Merano Wine Festival.  The magnificent Kurhaus is an incredibly elegant venue for the event and exclusive as not all producer are eligible to participate.  Indeed producers are required to send their samples to the examining commission of the MWF and if their wines receive a score of more than 86/100 they can participate, with no more than 3 wines for each winery.

The actual score is not available to the public, to allow everyone to have their own idea without being influenced by the evaluation of the expert examiners, but the highest level of quality is guaranteed by the work done months before the beginning of the event.

This year 1.317 top quality wines will be presented in Merano, with 370 Italian producers, 35 top producers of the “Union des Grands Crus de Bordeaux”, 100 producers from the best wine regions in the world. Moreover, the Gourmet Arena will host food artisans’ stalls, artisanal breweries, grappa and distillates. The wine tourism aficionados this year in Merano will receive a treat, the presentation of exceptional wine resorts.

To prepare for this major wine event, we suggest trying  some of the Alto Adige/Süd Tirol wines that you’ll be able to taste during the Merano Wine Festival and in the restaurants of the area, should you decide to stay in Merano longer than the duration of the event.

Our top wine picks:

·    Baron de Pauli, “Arzio”, Cabernet-Merlot.
·    Elena Walch, “Blauburgunder” Alto Adige DOC 2008, Pinot Noir 100%.
·    Nals Margreid, “Baron Salvadori Gewürztraminer”, Gewürztraminer 100%
·    Kloster Neustift, “Südtiroler Lagrein Mariaheim”, Lagrein 100%.

Hope to see you there!

Info on the Merano Wine Festival here.

Notes from last year´s Merano event here.

While in the region, we can organize an exclusive day (or longer tour)  of wine touring with driver, Mercedes and private visits to top estates in Northern Italy. Contact us for more info.

Here is our essential list, and readers: please send in your tips and advice so we can make the list even more complete!

THE ITALIAN PANTRY- CHECK LIST

1. Fresh herbs: basil, parsley, rosemary, sage, oregano, bay leaves, marjoram

2. Fruit and veg in season like:  fruit and veg in season, like garlic, onion, celery, carrot, Peperoncino (small chili peppers) lemons-  ALL YEAR ROUND; eggplant (aubergine), red peppers, zucchini (courgette), tomatoes (S. Marzano) figs- SUMMER ;  fennel,peas – SPRING;  radicchio, rocket,  spinach, butternut squash, endives, orange- AUTUMN AND WINTER

3 Cherished Italian food brands: Lavazza coffee (you can buy the beans and grind yourself), Illy (coffee), Bei & Nanini (coffee), Gerardo di Nola (pasta), Annalisa (canned tomatoes), Menabrea (beer), Baladin (beer), Mutti (passata), San Pellegrino (mineral water) , Nutella, Cedroni (sauces and preserves), Brezzo specialty foods, Prunotto (honey and jams).

4. Condiments: Extra virgin olive oil, Olive Oil, Truffle olive oil, Balsamic vinegar (aceto balsamico tradizionale di modena), butter (yes, butter!), black pepper mill, course sea salt, fine salt, Mostarda, etc. Here are some original and fabulous condiments from the Accademia Barrilla gourmet shop.

5. Small gadgets: mezzaluna cutter, scolapasta (pasta strainer), Ravioli wheel, pizza stone, pestle and mortar (stone or wood), mandolin, mozzarella slicer, Ravioli tin, Bodum Parma cheese grater, garlic press, pasta serving spoon, parmesan knife, peppermill.

6. Bigger gadgets: tirasfoglia (pasta machine), Espresso maker, De ‘ Longhi coffee maker, pizza oven.

7. Other Food ingredients to have in the pantry: canned tomatoes , passata (Mutti), anchovies, Colatura di alici, Capers from Salina, Cucunci from Salina, olives, chicken bouillon, canned cannellini beans, canned garbanzos (chickpeas), lentils, Pancetta or guanciale, Prosciutto di Parma, Bresaola, Salami, Italian sausages, cornmeal (farina gialla), Italian ‘OO’ Flour, Nutella, canned tuna, polenta, walnuts, hazelnuts, pine nuts, saffron.

8. Italian cheeses for cooking: Parmigiano, Pecorino, Mascarpone, Gorgonzola, Mozzarella, Ricotta, Taleggio, etc. More Italian cheese info here.

9. Pasta: Spaghetti, Penne, Rigatoni, Tagliatelle, Ditalini, etc- see more pasta here;  and good brands include Setaro, Garofalo, Pastai Gragnanesi, Senatore Cappelli, Martelli, etc. EASY TO FIND- Barilla  and De Cecco

10: Rice: Arborio and Superfino Carnaroli

11. Cooking wines: Dry Marsala, Moscato

12. Drinks Cellar: White wines (Friuli super whites, Falanghina from Campania, Gavi from Piedmont), Red wines (recommended wine estates here), Campari, Vermouth, Amaretto, Limoncello (keep in the freezer), etc. More on Italian spirits and liqueurs here.

13. Some Italian cookbooks we love: The Essentials of Classic Italian Cooking by Marcella Hazan, La Cucina: The Traditional Home Cooking of Italy by Italian Academy of Cuisine, Gennaro’s Italian Home Cooking: Quick and Simple Meals to Feed Family and Friends  by Gennaro Contaldo, Carluccio’s Complete Italian Food by Antonio Carluccio and Priscilla Carluccio.

14. Italian Culinary Tours: learn how to cook with the locals in Tuscany, Umbria, Lake Garda, Portofino, Modena, Milan, Venice and a Grand Gastronomic Tour of Italy´s Culinary Treasures.

Other useful links:

Alessi kitchenware

Mario Batali´s Italy

Italian Cooking Made Easy

A-Z Italian food Glossary

If you have not yet had the opportunity to visit this breathtaking region yet, then we cannot recommend it enough! This is also THE destination for special occasions- anniversaries, honeymoons, wedding proposals, family reunions…

A quick guide to the Val d’ Orcia for food and wine lovers:

WHEN TO GO: Autumn is the ultimate time to visit for wine lovers as the vineyards are at their most beautiful, the wineries have a real buzz, the weather is generally still sunny but deliciously fresh (perfect for the region´s rich red warming wines). Winter is very cold but a great time to enjoy the food and captivating landscapes without the stifling summer crowds. Spring is gorgeous.

WHERE TO STAY: You can use a few different places as bases, either in town or countryside. We love the Grand Hotel Continental in Siena for old world charm, the luxury Il Borgo at Castello Banfi (also a wine estate, near Montalcino) and the darling little Palazzo del Capitano in the delicious hamlet of San Quirico d’ Orcia.

WHAT TO DO: Wine tasting is obviously a big pull and many wineries open to the general public like Banfi, Barbi and Poggio Antico (which also has a great restaurant) in Montalcino.  For visiting  cult wineries (like Casanova di Neri) and more special visits, book a luxury private wine tour in Montalcino or lesser known Montepulciano. The artistic treasures in the towns of Siena and Pienza are also a “must”. Hiring a local art guide is a fantastic way to discover the local anecdotes and secret corners too.  Renting a villa for a week in Val d´Orcia and spending quiet days cooking, shopping at local markets, wine tasting and relaxing is also an unforgettable way to enjoy the region to the fullest.

WHAT TO BUY: Rare Brunello, artisan cheeses, wild boar cured ham (prosciutto di cinghiale), Terracotta in Siena: and then fine products from other parts of Tuscany (olive oil from Lucca, hand made masks from Florence, antiques and gold from the countless markets, etc).

More info:

Italy travel tips

Wineries in Tuscany

Brunch at home can be even romantic than dinner out, and is a wonderful idea for this Valentine`s weekend. But what to make? What wines  to serve?

How to make it the perfect Valentine`s Day Brunch?

Begin the late morning with crèpes, rolled with strawberries and freshly whipped cream. You can stir in a chocolate or almond based Italian liqueur to the cream…

Toast with pink bubbly, we adore Pommery Rosé. Add to the feeling of special occasion with beautiful champagne glasses and rose petals on the tablecloth…

Continue with Lobster Bisque, a colorful, beautiful and very romantic dish…

This dish, believe it or not, pairs well with dessert wines such as the fabulous Barsac/Sauternes wines from Château Coutet…

Or, if you don’t want to do sweet wine before red wine, carry on with the champagne!

For the savory main course, how about delicate grilled baby lamb chops with rosemary?

… paired with something fabulous like Casanova di Neri`s Brunello di Montalcino. Oh, yeah!

and finish off your romantic Valentine`s day brunch with some kisses, Baci- the chocolate that says it all.

At the very last minute, last week I decided to spend a few days in Rome with my friends, to visit the amazing exhibition Bacon and Caravaggio at the Galleria Borghese , waiting for the great Caravaggio exhibition at Scuderie del Quirinale to celebrate the 400th anniversary of the great artist’s death.

Having a very full schedule with art, churches and museums, we didn’t have much time to enjoy sit-down restaurants, so we decided to follow Mario Batali’s advice “I only eat at wine bars in Rome”.

The research was “exhausting” but yielded  interesting results, so herewith- enjoy my personal list for the best wine bars in Rome:

1. Palatium – Via Frattina 94 (few steps from Via Condotti and Spanish Steps)

In spite of its location, it is not a tourist trap at all. Rather, it is the official “Enoteca Regionale del Lazio” , where you can find local (from Lazio region) high quality wines and food at good prices. You can have a glass at the bar, or sit in the adjoining room and also enjoy a light lunch.

2. Riccioli Café - Piazza delle Coppelle n° 10/a

Owned and run by Massimo Riccioli (chef of the prestigious La Rosetta restaurant), it is also an oyster and sushi bar with a beautiful terrace. More than 300 wines to choose. For take away service, don’t miss Rosticcerì.

3. Roscioli - via dei Giubbonari, 21 (close to Campo dei Fiori)

This has always been my favorite, even if always crowded. Why? Perfect location, great choice of cheeses, bread and coldcuts, as well as lovely food from the cuisine.

4. Cul de Sac - Piazza Pasquino, 73 (close to Piazza Navona)

Founded in 1977, it offers more than 1500 wines, great choice of cheeses and coldcuts, tasty food from Rome (tripe, ox tail, carbonara) and other Italian regions. You can sit outdoors.

5. La Barrique – Via del Boschetto 41b (not far from the Quirinale)

Fabrizio Pagliardi will welcome you in this warm and cozy wine bar at any time of day and night, for a glass of wine or for some good food. You can take an aperitif (great choice of bubbly!), have a quick lunch, sit down for a nice dinner or come for a dessert post theatre.

6. Casa Bleve - via del Teatro Valle 48/49

Close to the Pantheon (even if the first Casa Bleve was founded in the Ghetto and it is still in via Santa Maria del Pianto 9-11), this is very elegant. The wine list is impressive and you can find whatever you would like to match with smoked fish, salads, cheese…

7. Enoteca Ferrara -- Piazza Trilussa 41

In the heart of lively Trastevere, a wine bar which is more than that! Different floors for the wine bar (best Rome wine bar in 2003 by Bibenda), cafè, restaurant (2 forks by Gambero Rosso), wine shop. Ask Andrea to pour you one of the 25 wines they offer by the glass or choose one of 1000 wine bottles, you won’t be disappointed! They also have their own-designed glasses, that you can buy, if you like them.

8. Buccone - via di Ripetta 19/20

Very close to the Piazza del Popolo; at the end of the 19th century, it was Marquis Cavalcabò’s horse drawn carriages garage and then it became a “trattoria” at the end of  WWII. Since1969, it has been owned by the Buccone family. The walls are lined with wine bottles and the ambiance is informal and warm. Great array of wines and good choice of food, like roast pork from Ariccia , aubergine parmigiana, soups and salads.

9. Il Simposio di Constantini - Piazza Cavour, 16 (close to the Vatican)

Elegant place, with a restaurant and wine shop. They also organize wine tasting classes. 4000 wines on the list!!!!!!!!!

10. Trimani — Via Cernaia 37B

Historic venue (they have been selling wine since 1821), great food and charming atmosphere.

11. Open Baladin – via degli Specchi, 5/6 – Rome

And what happens if after all that wine, you are craving something different? You go to Open Baladin and enjoy one of the artisanal biers on the menu

PIZZA night!

A pizza always hits the spot, but what to drink with it? Turn a simple Pizza night into a food and wine adventure with these fun pizza/wine pairing suggestions:

Margherita Pizza

Wine Pairing: Robust red from Puglia like Neprica (Tormaresca)

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Pizza Bianca (White Pizza)

Wine Pairing: A big, buttery, wintery white from the Priorat region, like Mas d’ en Compte

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Pizza Quatro Formaggi (Four cheeses)

Wine Pairing: Heavy, delicious white from Portugal’s unsung Alentejo region like Esporão Branco

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Pizza with Anchovies

Wine Pairing: we love anchovy pizza with whites from Campania, especially Feudi di San Gregorio’s Falanghina

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Pizza Capricciosa

Wine Pairing: an easy going Bordeaux like Château Teyssier,  St Emilion.

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Pizza Diavolo (with chili peppers/spicy salami)

Wine Pairing: a bright red from Italy’s beautiful  Marche region like Moroder Rosso Conero

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Pizza Funghi (with mushrooms)

Wine Pairing: Chianti would be perfect, something fabulous like Badia Passignano’s Riserva.

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Pizza with Tonno (Tuna) and Olives

Wine Pairing: It has got to be from Sicily! Planeta’s La Segreta Rosso pairs well.

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Do you have any other pizza/ wine pairing ideas to share?

Simona Piccinelli, our Italian food and wine specialist has put together a fabulous suggested week-long itinerary for gourmets wanting to eat their way through Northern  Italy’s best restaurants.  Pour a glass of Italian wine, grab a notebook and read on….

DAY 1- Fly into Milan, pick up car and drive east to the Franciacorta wine region. Check into the Albereta Relais & Chateaux hotel, set amid a vineyard.  Taste Franciacorta wines at La Dispensa or at the Bellavista estate. Tonight for dinner, enjoy dinner at your hotel in Gualtiero Marchesi’s phenomenal restaurant.

DAY 2- Drive to Bergamo, one of Northern Italy`s hidden gems. Explore the old town in the higher part of the city . Settle into a splendid lunch at 3 Michelin starred Da Vittorio. After lunch, take in some sightseeing in the città alta and head back to the Albereta wine resort.

DAY 3- On to Cremona, home of the Stradivarius and another delightful town off the main tourist track. Poke around the small town’s gorgeous churches and small museums and then head to the wonderful 3 Michelin starred Dal Pescatore for lunch. Mega treat. Digest your tasting menu on a charming walk through Mantova afterwards, yet another darling town and stomping grounds of the powerful Gonzagas.

DAY 4 – Shift gears and head to Lake Garda today. Drive to Torre del Benaco and take a cooking class with  Andrea and Lara at Le Gemme di Artemisia which will be lunch.  (This features in our Garda culinary weekend). Then visit the lake and head to Brescia, an unsung art town nearby where you can have a trendy aperitif. Dinner tonight could be at the beautiful 2  Michelin starred Miramonti L’Altro. Sleep at Albereta again tonight.

DAY 5 Work your way back to Milano today and visit the sights- cathedral, Brera, etc. Dine at the contemporary and hip 2 Michelin starred Sadler tonight. Sleep at the cute Petit Palais.

DAY 6- Drive south today to visit Pavia, with its stunning Certosa, monastic complex. Amazing and so close to Milan. Tonight for dinner, finish your top chefs tour of Italy with a divine cena at Trussardi. Sublime.

DAY 7- fly home and get your gym membership going again