Cellar Tours Blog

Vinos Dulces

LOS OTROS VINOS- Alberto Coronado

Existen en el mercado “otros vinos” que no  son, ni con mucho los más consumidos, ni tampoco los más conocidos por el gran público. Es un totum revolutum de clasificaciones y de elaboraciones; también de zonas de producción, de denominaciones de origen, de países, de climas e incluso de culturas. Son los llamados “vinos nobles” y sin duda cada uno de ellos tiene su leyenda, su historia y hasta su cruz particular. En cualquier caso son vinos inclasificables por su tipicidad y personalidad, pero si todos tienen algo en común es su altísima calidad. España aporta a esta lista algunos de los vinos más peculiares del mundo.

Se les denomina “vinos nobles” porque muchos de ellos han sido durante siglos tesoros únicos en las mesas de los mejores salones imperiales europeos. Destacan por ser originales y sublimes y dan reconocimiento y prestigio a unas contadísimas zonas vitivinícolas del mundo. Entre ellos se encuentran las “rarezas” enológicas más logradas, las producciones más escasas y en muchos casos los precios más astronómicos.

Se elaboran en todos los continentes, pero es en Europa donde encontramos los más representativos. Son difícilmente clasificables por su peculiaridad y por ser los vinos más artesanales y más personales que existen. Algunos son frutos de la casualidad, otros de la desidia y otros de la adversidad climática incluso política de una determinada zona de producción.

Para hacer una primera clasificación muy somera habría una gran división entre vinos generosos y dulces o licorosos.
A continuación vamos a detallar las principales tipologías en las que se pueden englobar dichos vinos:

Generosos

Se denominan vinos generosos los que tienen un contenido en alcohol entre 14º y 23º, a muchos de ellos se les suele añadir alcohol vínico y sus crianzas son habitualmente muy prolongadas, como en el caso de Jerez, Montilla Moriles y Málaga mediante el sistema de soleras y criaderas. En este tipo de vinos es su elaboración lo que los hace realmente únicos, por encima de las variedades de uva utilizadas o las influencias climáticas de cada cosecha.

Asombrosamente y a pesar de ser uno de los grandes vinos del mundo y nuestra única aportación al panorama internacional de vinos representativos de una zona reconocida durante siglos en España, el vino de Jerez es mínimamente conocido y consumido. Hasta tal punto que bodegueros y “entendidos” en la materia se confiesan poco conocedores de este tipo de vinos. Hace algunos años la prestigiosa revista “The Economist” hizo una encuesta entre sus suscriptores sobre sus preferencias a la hora de tomar una bebida alcohólica. El Jerez se alzó en el primer puesto por delante de la ginebra o el whisky o incluso del vino francés. Claro, eso en el Reino Unido. Nadie es profeta en su tierra.

Licorosos

El segundo grupo estaría formado por los vinos dulces o licorosos ,aquí deberíamos hacer más subdivisiones, ya que el azúcar residual que nos encontramos tiene orígenes y modos de obtención muy diferentes. Según el procedimiento empleado y las zonas de producción. En cualquier caso en esta clasificación todos los vinos son dulces.

Por fermentación parcial

Cuando el mosto inicia la fermentación, esta se detiene mediante la adición de alcohol vínico. Generalmente pasan posteriormente a barricas para continuar su crianza y algunos son sometidos a largos envejecimientos o a altas temperaturas para conseguir un enranciamiento posterior.

El gran representante de este primer grupo es sin lugar a dudas el Oporto, uno de los grandes mitos y que merecería capítulo aparte. También los moscateles de grano menudo y de Alejandría de Rivesaltes, Setubal, Frontignan o Samos junto con los vinos de Banyuls, Madeiras, Marsalas o Garnatxas catalanes estarían aquí representados. En España hay zonas con gran tradición de moscateles como Valencia, Málaga, Navarra, Alicante o Canarias.

Deshidratación por Botrytis Cinerea

La vendimia se retrasa para así exponer la uva al hongo llamado botrytis cinerea. Éste produce la deshidratación del grano y el consiguiente aumento de la concentración de azúcares. Son vinos de una acidez elevada y de una untuosidad inigualable.Para que se produzca este proceso las cepas deben estar ubicadas cerca de ríos o lagos, con brumas matinales seguidas de fuertes insolaciones diurnas. Son unos vinos de color ambarino o dorado muy glicéricos, melosos y con notas de membrillo, orejón desecado y miel de acacia.

Al tener que ser recogidas las uvas en la mayoría de los casos grano a grano se encuentran en esta categoría algunos de los vinos mas caros del mundo; los Tokaj húngaros, Sauternes en Francia y los beerenauslese y trockenbeerenauslese en Alemania y Austria.

Vendimias tardías o dulces naturales

La recogida de la uva al igual que en anterior caso se retrasa para forzar su sobremaduración. La concentración de azúcares es mayor con lo que se obtienen vinos dulces naturales de unos 12º a 14º. En España hay experiencias con fantásticos resultados como los de Chivite pero son los Spätlese en Alemania y Austria , los vendimias tardías de Tokaj o los “Selección de granos nobles” franceses los más conocidos internacionalmente.

Deshidratación por asoleo

Las uvas una vez recogidas se esparcen en esteras de esparto y se las somete al asoleo durante dos semanas aproximadamente. El agua que contienen los granos se evapora y los azúcares se concentran, pasificando las uvas. El contenido en azúcar es tan elevado que la fermentación apenas es posible, por lo que se añade alcohol vínico hasta alcanzar los 15º. Estas mistelas envejecen en botas, alcanzando niveles de concentración y de vejez verdaderamente asombrosos.

Son los Pedro Ximenez en Jerez, Montilla Moriles y Málaga los más emblemáticos. También se puede hacer este proceso de pasificación por estufado artificial como los Passitos italianos o  como los Strohwein (vinos de paja) Alsacianos, del Jura o los alemanes y austríacos. Se consiguen almacenando las uvas durante tres meses sobre esteras de paja o juncos o colgándolas de cuerdas y secadas al aire. Y por supuesto uno de los grandes dulces españoles, el Fondillón.

Las denominadas mistelas no se podrían considerar propiamente vinos en el concepto estricto de la palabra, ya que para denominarse de esta manera debería haber fermentación alcohólica y en el caso de las mistelas todo su alcohol es por adicción. Por esta razón los vinos amistelados serían  vinos licorosos generosos elaborados con concentrado de uvas, más alcohol vínico autorizado con una graduación superior a los 13º y azúcares residuales superiores a 100 gr/l.

Deshidratación por congelación

La vendimia se retrasa hasta noviembre o diciembre logrando la congelación del agua del grano. Las uvas en este estado son trasladadas rápidamente a la bodega para vinificarlas y conseguir atrapar todo el dulzor del grano congelado. Son vinos de color pálido, de elevada acidez y poca graduación alcohólica.

Son los conocidos Eiswein alemanes o austríacos. Aunque recientemente en Canadá también se hacen estos vinos con muy buenos resultados.

En definitiva en esta clasificación puede ser variable según se realice organolépticamente, por denominaciones históricas o por contenido alcohólico. En cualquier caso se podrían incluir los vinos espumosos naturales, gasificados, de aguja, aromatizados, enverados o de aperitivo, pero los mencionados sin lugar a dudas engloban no sólo vinos especiales, sino los vinos históricos de más alta categoría en el ámbito de la enología mundial.

Más:

Vinos de Oporto

Vega Sicilia, El Valor de un Mito- Vinos Iconos

El Palo Cortado, el Vino de Leyenda

Vestirse de Etiqueta – Etiquetas de Vino

The Mercado de San Miguel is the best thing to happen to Madrid in forever, and the popularity of the market’s food and wine stands and convivial atmosphere has soared to a stratospheric level. The weekends are heaving with happy locals and tourists alike munching on the gourmet goodies (stuffed peppers, oysters and champagne, Galician octopus, Catalan canelones, marinated olives, artisan cheeses, Jamón de Bellota, Chorizo, etc) and buckets of vino de Rioja, Ribera del Duero, Sherry, Cava, Priorat….

We got the camera out and took some shots of this lovingly restored historic market, enjoy! And if you find yourself in Madrid, a visit here is a must. Best enjoyed midweek and before dinnertime. If you don’t mind crowds, the weekends are a whole lot of fun, with occasional entertainment. They recently had a Galician themed night with food and wine from Galicia, Galician musicians performing and a fantastic -but packed!- ambience.

Information on the Mercado de San Miguel:

Opening Times:

Monday, Tuesday, Wednesday and Sunday 10AM- midnight
Thursday, Friday and Saturday- 10AM – 2AM (after 10PM the whole market becomes a cool wine bar!)

Address: The Plaza San Miguel, Madrid (right next tot he Plaza Mayor)

Other tips while visiting Madrid: Best tapas in town, Viridiana restaurant, a wine tour to La Mancha, the Prado Museum, DiverXo restaurant, the Retiro Park, jazz at the Cafe Central…

See you at the Mercado for a vino!

Restaurants in Barcelona- Notes from a Foodie Weekend

We were in Barcelona last weekend checking out new suppliers, taking in some meetings and visiting some of our favorite foodie partners, here are some notes from our trip and tips for your next visit to Barcelona.

FRIDAY- CASA CALVET- We arrived to town after 9PM but managed to get freshened up before our late dinner at Casa Calvet. What a beautiful place! Located in a Catalan mansion designed by none other than Gaudi for a textile mogul at the turn of the last century, the whimsical dining room is all stained glass, “Modernista” design, mirrors, polished wood and brass. A “brindis” (toast) with cava was in order as we admired the setting and ordered the food. We shared wild mushrooms with chestnuts and Jamón Ibérico, perhaps not the most adventurous, but delish.  Other interesting starters included Bomba rice with conger eel and seasonal veg & Apple and foie gras ravioli with truffle cream. Alvaro Palacio´s “Terrasses” from Priorat was good value here and just gorgeous.  The mains selected were a delicate cod steak confit with porcini mushrooms and arbequina olives, artichoke chips and a rich duck liver with chickpeas and Iberian pancetta, aromatized with cumin. Gluttony, not hunger, made us finish with Apple tart tatin, made fresh to order. The other patrons dining this late were a mix of elegant Catalan couples and tourists. The food was not ground breaking or unique enough to be featured in a Bourdain episode, but was still very good and the setting beautiful, recommend for a special occasion.

SATURDAY- EMBAT AND FONDA GAIG- While we normally breakfast at the Boqueria market when in town (cava and Joan´s garbanzos with Morcilla at Pinotxo in the market are a MUST), we had a meeting so had a quickie breakfast at “any old bar” of simple pan amb tomaquet (country bread drizzled with olive oil and sea salt and rubbed with tomatoes) and freshly squeezed orange juice as you do when in Spain…

Lunch was with our friend, writer Tara Stevens who is launching a new cookbook as we speak (more on that later…) at the quite fantabulous “Embat“.  We had heard good things about this swish little eatery, and it was the perfect lunch venue- light, airy, friendly, and not so crowded (dinner is more “sceney” apparently). Dinner was supposed to be the highlight today but lunch stole the show.  The wine list is very, very good, we selected a bottle of the current vintage of Vallegarcía Viognier (one of our favorite Spanish white wines), and it was peachy, fresh and creamy, love that wine.  An amuse bouche of Cauliflower pannacotta with caviar set the tone (mmmmms and ooooohs) and we continued with STUNNING cannelones stuffed with duck (a flagship dish,  Canelons d’ànec amb rossinyols de pi”), seared scallops with apple and pancetta, and followed with heavenly slow cooked beef, lobster rice and pigeon three ways. Simply yum, yum and more yum. I think dessert was actually a favorite dish, a refreshing “Sopa de romaní amb meló i llimona” ( a kind of soupy sorbet of melon, lemon and rosemary). Too delicious to describe in words… We were stuffed at this stage so decided to walk it off and do some gourmet shopping while in town. Visits to Escribà, Cacao Sampaka, the Corte Inglés supermarket were in order!

Dinner then was at Fonda Gaig, an old time favorite, relaxed, understated and  chic, with traditional Catalan cuisine served in a brasserie setting by mythical Michelin starred chef Carles Gaig (Fonda Gaig is his nostalgic eatery, known for its trad cuisine while “Restaurante Gaig“, located at the stylish Hotel Cram is the trendy, creative Michelin starred eatery.) Don´t ask us where we found room (the more you eat the hungrier you get!), but we managed to have a full dinner and dessert (!):  Salteado de setas de temporada (sautéed wild mushrooms) and Senyor Gaig’s biblical croquettes. For mains Pato con peras  (duck with pears) , Vieiras con salteado de alcachofas  (scallops with artichokes) and Albondigas con sepia  (meatballs with cuttlefish). To finish, nothing else would do but Crema Catalana, sublime. We were dying for a bottle of Artadi Rioja, but they just sold the last bottle so we had a very good bottle of Muga. We waddled back to our hotel, luckily a good 20 minute walk so we were able to digest… a bit….

SUNDAY- CASA DELFÍN- Our friend Kate who owns the truly wonderful Taller de Tapas chain (in our view the freshest and absolute best tapas in Barcelona!) invited us down to her newest venue in Barcelona, the Casa Delfín, a historic and well loved neighborhood restaurant that Kate recently took over.  Respecting the clientele and traditional Catalan cuisine, Casa Delfín has all the classic dishes on offer, as well as traditional tapas (Padrón peppers, anchovies, Jamón, calamares, you name it). While the inside of the restaurant is darling, kind of Parisian bistro a la Catalana, it was a sunny day and sitting inside on such a beautiful afternoon was not an option! We tasted our way through their tapas menu (major highlights were the savory garbanzos, and the nearly sweet, utterly buenísimo sautéed artichokes) and for mains had absolutely delicious seafood rice and a Sunday staple, liver and onions. They serve zippy Alella by the glass and, unusual for Spain, have some nice half bottles on offer. The crowd inside was all local, many older, elegant Catalan couples, while outside on the “terraza” was a mix of funky, younger locals and tourists like us Recommended, especially for Sunday lunch.

For our digestif, we took a long walk from the Borne quarter into the Eixample and sat down for a Campari at  the lovely Casa Fuster, our main hotel partner in Barcelona. They have a beautiful bar which is a stylish, relaxed place to have an afternoon drink or coffee and read the newspaper, listen to jazz. Casa Fuster is the coolest place to stay in Barcelona in our opinion, for location, rooms and setting. And alas, late afternoon called for packing, weighing suitcases exploding with our gourmet shopping, and heading to the airport.  A reveure, Barcelona!

Other spots we love in Barcelona: Cinc Sentits (for an elegant but unpretentious Michelin starred dinner delivered in perfect English as the owners are Canadian-Catalan), Abac (for a special “date night” Michelin dinner in glam setting), the old fashioned and pretty “La Dama” restaurant (romantic), Katherine´s Formageria de  la Seu cheese shop (where onsite cheese tastings can be organized), Sergi Arola`s trendy tapas bar at the Hotel Arts, and the tremendous wine selection at the Vila Viniteca enoteca (we organize  Spanish cheese and wine masterclasses here in their cellar). On our next visit to Barcelona we plan to dine again (it´s been a while) at Alkimia and will check out Carles Abellan´s newish Tapaç 24.

Shots around town…

Spanish Cheese From Coast to Coast- Quick Glossary of Cheeses from Spain

By Martina Hemm

Murcia Al Vino

Known for their wine and fanatic adoration of everything ham, Spaniards are equally as enamored with their cheese, and rightly so. Running the gamut from sharp and creamy to firm but mild, the range of Spanish cheeses mirrors the varied terrain that characterizes their distinct flavors.

Here’s just a sprinkling of Spain’s lactic delights to whet your appetite.

CABRALES, D.O.P. 1981

Elaborated in the lush mountains of Asturias, in the north of Spain, the flavor of this acclaimed blue cheese is tied to the region’s landscape. The herds of cows, sheep, and goats, that produce the milk for Cabrales, feed in the high pastures of Asturias. The ripening process takes place in natural mountain caves that are passed on from generation to generation—from which Cabrales receives its characteristic blue-green veining. Slightly granular, Cabrales has a spicy yet salty bite that pairs perfectly with a sweet sherry from the South of Spain.

IDIAZABAL , D.O.P. 1987

Another cheese from the northern regions of Spain, Idiazábal is located on the other end of the flavor spectrum. Mild with a nutty presence, this firm cheese is produced in two varieties, smoked and plain. The smoked variety spends up to 10 days over fires of Cherry, Birchwood, or Hawthorne, from which it retains an ocher rind, compared to the buttery yellow tone of a plain Idiazábal.  Predominantly elaborated in the Basque country and Navarre region, Idiazábal was given its D.O.P. to protect the Latxa and Carranza sheep. These native species of the region only produce a small quantity of milk per year, resulting in a limited and exclusive supply of true Idiazábal.

Idiazábal

MAHON, D.O.P. 1985

The tiny Balearic island of Menorca is a culinary hothouse, the birthplace of mayonnaise (Mahon-aise) and the cultivating ground for Mahon cheese, whose salty sharp taste is reminiscent of the island’s briny coast. A cow’s milk cheese, Mahon undergoes a series of baths in olive oil and/or Pimentón, a spice similar to paprika. Like cheddar, the bright white cheese grows darker, sharper, and crumbles with age.  You can find three different stages of Mahon: soft, semi-cured, and cured. A soft Mahon has a barely developed white/orange rind and white to yellow creamy yet firm interior. The taste, while suave, still has the characteristic brine and a sharp tinge to it. In comparison the semi-cured Mahon’s rind is a brownish orange, the cheese an ivory yellow. With a more developed bouquet of flavors typical of Mahon, including notes of toasted nuts, the cheese still retains the milky notes of a younger Mahon. The cured Mahon, on the other hand, is a cheese made in cheese-lovers heaven. Powerful, evoking flavors of tobacco, leather, and spices, the aged cheese crumbles to the cut and lingers on the palate—especially paired with a strong honey.

Mahon

MANCHEGO, D.O.P. 1996

Mentioned by Cervantes, in the world’s first modern novel Don Quijote, Manchego has always been a protagonist on the culinary scene. Found in tapas bars across the country, Manchego belongs to Spain like flashy clothes to flamenco. Produced in central Spain, the region of La Mancha, Manchego’s savor reflects the arid landscape it is crafted in. The ancestral race of Manchegean sheep that supply the milk, feed off of the sparse vegetation, marking Manchego with a distinctive zest. Similar to Parmesan, Manchego demonstrates fruity notes that balance out its sharp acidity. The texture is firm with small air pockets spread throughout the yellow/white cheese surrounded by a hard rind.

MURCIA AL VINO, D.O.P.

Known as “Drunken Goat” in the U.S. this goat cheese matured in wine comes from the region of Murcia from which it gets its name. The idea to soak this goat milk cheese in baths of red wine came as a governmental impulse to create an innovative cheese to put Murcia on the gastronomic map. The non-pasteurized cheese is washed and pressed into shape before multiple wine baths can give the rind its signature dark pomegranate color. In contrast the cheese is a stark white, supple yet easy to cut, with a creamy mild quality underlined by a hint of yoghurt.

TORTA DEL CASAR, D.O.P.

The name Torta del Casar comes from the rather irregular shape the cheese took on when the soft inside was unable to sustain its shape, reminding the people of Extremadura of a cake instead. This semi-liquid interior, strikingly similar to a cheese dip, is what makes this cheese so famous and delectable. By using vegetable rennet made from thistles to coagulate the sheep’s milk, the producers achieve this highly creamy texture and signature taste. To enjoy the melt-in-your-mouth experience that is Torta del Casar, you must cut of the top of the soft rind so that you can scoop out the inside with pieces of bread. Make sure that the cheese is at room temperature so that the aromas can unfold and the cheese becomes runny.

More Information:

Cheese from Spain Official Site

Spanish cheese masterclasses, tours and tastings

Spanish Gastronomy

Manchego

Spain’s turbulent history has resulted in the country being home to over 2500 castles, ranging from Moorish castles to military fortresses built in the “Reconquista”, medieval castles, castles overlooking the sea….

Many of these beautiful  castles are perfectly preserved, others in romantic ruins on atmospheric hilltops.  Here is a perhaps controversial selection of our personal 10 favorites, many of them in the wine country:

1. Segovia’s Alcazar

The ultimate Disney castle, the Alcazar of Segovia is just gorgeous. And such rich history. This is where Queen Isabel and King Ferdinand met for the first time and where King Philip (Felipe) the 2nd married his wife (Anne of Austria). You can visit the interior of the castle and also climb up over 150 stairs on a narrow, winding staircase to get to the Torre Juan II and enjoy views over Segovia and the countryside. Quite magical in winter, when you can also appreciate the local suckling pig and fab wines.

2. Jarandilla

This preserved 15th century castle has been converted into one of Spain’s national Parador hotels and is located in the wonderful region of Extremadura (Paprika mecca). King Charles V lived here and the castle and grounds are very atmospheric. The cuisine here is rustic fare and terrific. While in this region don´t miss medieval Trujillo and Cáceres, gorgeous places. On the other side of the border is the Portuguese Alentejo region, full of Arabic castles and romantic wine estates.

3. Mota

This delightful gothic castle near the Rueda and Ribera del Duero wine regions is where Juana la Loca (Jane the Mad) lived and over the years has changed its hat from being a royal residence, prison and these days is used for special events and art exhibitions. More info.

4. Ponferrada

Whimsical castle in one of our favorite wine regions, Bierzo. Interesting as it is one of Spain´s few Templar castles. From July 1-4, the local town council is organizing  medieval Templar nights, very atmospheric.

5. Coca

A 15th century ornate, perfectly preserved military castle located about half an hour from Segovia, Castillo de Coca is a very handsome castle. You can visit the inside of the castle too (not all castles allow visits). Why not make it an afternoon excursion from Segovia? Bring a picnic and munch on Chorizo and queso while sitting in the shade of the trees and sipping on some chilled Rueda…

6. Olite

This absolutely gorgeous castles in Navarra is one of the loveliest in Spain and set right in the middle of the historic village of Olite and overlooking vineyards. Stay the night in Olite (the Parador, also a historic building is the best spot in town) and enjoy the castle lit up and the wonderful local restaurants. While in the area, visit the super Ochoa winery and why not pop over to the neighboring Rioja wine region?

7. Peñafiel

Situated in the heart of the Ribera del Duero wine country, the Castillo de Peñafiel houses a regional wine museum and overlooks a charming medieval village of the same name.  Shaped like a battleship and set right on top of a steep hill, a stop here is a must if touring the wine country. You can stay nearby at the pretty Convento las Claras.

8. Alarcon

This Arabic fortress (dating back to the 8th century!) in Cuenca province in the La Mancha wine region has been transformed into an itty bitty Parador (only a few rooms, including the Infante Don Juan Manuel room at the top of the castle keep ). This is the land of Don Quixote, dusty and dreamy. Visit Cuenca with its hanging houses and the swish Pago Vicario wine estate.

9.  Tossa de Mar

Overlooking the sparkling sea, this castle (fortified tower) wins for location location location. Tossa de Mar is a touristy town on the Costa Brava, close to the Emporda wine region. In the 50’s, when Ava Gardner filmed “Pandora and the Flying Dutchman” here it was a sleepy fishing village. These days it’s a popular beach haunt. Absolutely delightful to visit in June or September when the crowds are gone and the weather is balmy…

10. Loarre

Very close to the Somontano wine region (featured in our Spanish wine odyssey tour) in Huesca you´ll find the absolutely mystical castle of Loarre. This castle complex dates tot he 11th century and is Unesco protected.

Other wonderful castles, big and small (some abandoned), include the Alcazaba of Guadix, Butrón in Vizcaya, the castle of Vejer in Andalucía, Málaga’s Alcazaba, Coyanza, Burgalimar, Peralada (home to a wine estate to and featured on our Catalonia wine tours), Castillo de Bellver (just above Palma de Mallorca)  and Castillo de Almansa.

More on Spanish castles and architecture here.

It´s Friday and you are day dreaming about where do take your next vacation… here are some images of one of our favorite regions on earth, La Rioja, to inspire you

Enjoy these shots of Rioja´s vineyards, medieval villages, rivers and mountains…

Find out more!

Rioja wine region

Rioja wineries

Rioja wine tours

A Bite of Seville, By Martina Hemm

When making a culinary pilgrimage through Spain, Seville is not to be missed. Home to a vibrant flamenco scene and extensive network of tapas bars, Seville is clearly a town of bon vivants. And Sevilleans are not greedy. They are more than happy to share their lust for life with anyone who makes it down their winding cobblestone streets aged by history and heavy with the essence of lives lived to the fullest.

Start your day at the tiny Bar Europa café. Tucked into the corner of the quaint Plaza del Pan, patrons can look out onto passersby as they sip at their café con leche. Sidle up to the long mahogany bar, still part of the original decoration from 1925, and browse the menu of tapas that has secured Bar Europa in Seville’s Ruta de la Tapa.

Continue on to the cathedral. Built upon the foundation of an old mosque it is the third largest church in the world in length but the largest in square meters. Climb the 35 floors to o the top of the minaret and you will be left breathless, not only because of the hike, but the reward: an expansive view of all of Seville.

After a well-deserved siesta, ring in the evening at El Rinconcillo, claimed to be the oldest bar in Seville. Lined with years of wine and vermouth, the decades converge in El Rinconcillo, where hams hang from the ceiling and the waiter jots down your tab on the bar in chalk. Order some wines and share a bowl of salmorejo, a true Andalusian specialty similar to a gazpacho.

Continue your tapas tour to Bar Eslava—a narrow tapas bar with a smattering of tables in the back. Hugely popular, the spot fills up early with dancers, musicians, writers, and the grande dames of old Seville. Be sure to catch the name of your waiter! As long as you address them directly and aren’t scared to be vocal with your orders, a flurry of tapas will come your way. The menu has some of the best tapas in Seville, but the Navajas, or Razor clams, are sure to change your life. Cooked on the grill, with a splash of olive oil and pinch of sea salt, their maritime taste is enhanced with a dab of lemon juice.

But don’t have your last glass just yet!  Leave some room for La Carboneria , a flamenco bar hidden behind a red door in the old Jewish district. Enjoy the intimate flamenco shows, and perhaps some impromptu dancing…after all, that is how Seville seduces all her lovers.

INFO

La Carboneria

Calle Levies, 18
41004 Sevilla, Spain
Tel +34 95 421 44 60

Bar Europa

Calle Siete Revueltas, 35,
41004 Sevilla, Spain
Tel +34 954 217 908‎

Bar/ Restaurante  Eslava

Calle Eslava, 3
41002 Sevilla, Spain
Tel +34 954 906 568

El Rinconcillo

Calle Gerona, 42
41003 Sevilla, Spain
Tel +34 954 223 183

Tara Stevens, Barcelona based travel writer,  shares her experience with us on a recent stay at the hot new Mandarin Oriental in Barcelona:

Didn’t get to sample the Spa unfortunately, had a peak around it though and looks pretty fab. Very dark and sultry. Did have a swim in the pool – good size for a downtown hotel and the steam room thick with jasmin was divine. Carme Ruscallada’s new restaurant Moments is being headed by her son Raül. I was there on a Monday so it was shut, but they do a lunch special for €49, which struck me as a good way of getting a taste of greatness without the price tag. Design is sleek, elegant and understated in the rooms and bit more jazzy in the common areas such as Blanc – a restaurant and lounge (the heart of the place) situated on the trading floor (MO was a bank before) – with its contemporary Emmanuel chairs, leather sofas and zellij inspired hanging space divider. Ate there: modern Asian food came with a twist like tuna sashimi topped with green curry ice-cream, and the Bankers Bar, complete with renovated safety boxes does a mean bankers martini with vodka, cardomom, lemon juice and ginger. Classy stuff, had three over the course of the night with wine in between and not a trace of a hangover.

Madrid’s Best Tapas Bars

Everybody in Madrid has their Tapas bar- their secret neighborhood hideaway. Whether for a morning coffee, a midday snack, or a late night bottle among friends, madrileños live their lives in their favorite haunts. Here are just ten of our favorite tapas bars in Madrid, to give you a taste. But when you walk through the winding cobblestone streets of Madrid, you will be sure to stumble upon your very own taberna.

by Martina Hemm

La Camarilla

Le Cabrera

As the collaboration between Argentinean mixologist, Diego Cabrera and Sergi Arola, the culinary mastermind behind many of Spain’s great restaurants, Le Cabrera could settle back on their good names, but that would go against this new Gastrobar’s principles. Whether in its boutique tapas or distinct cocktails, Le Cabrera gives top ingredients the limelight. Split into two levels diners can start the evening upstairs with a glass mellow red Terrazgo, and follow up with one of Cabrera’s signature drinks in the downstairs cocktail lounge. Or enjoy the night at the open kitchen’s bar, where you can watch the chefs create the stars that make Le Cabrera shine.  Even though head chef, Benjamin Bensoussan, is originally from Marseille his traditional tapas with a twist could fool any Madrileño into believing he was a native. Tiny rolls of potatoes hiding a spicy center and topped with a smooth garlic aioli, are what Le Cabrera calls patatas bravas; a worthy addition to any gourmand’s dictionary.

Calle Bárbara de Braganza 2
Madrid
Tel +34 913 199 457

Taberna Matritum

Rustic yet refined, Matritum is set back from the busy bustle of Cava Baja. Enter into the cozy dining room and watch the dim lighting reflect off of the over 400 wines on display, which the in house sommelier will be more than happy to go guide you through. Treat yourself to one of Matritum’s specialties: pan seared foie with a confit of oven roasted apples and onions or a gratin of scallops in a luscious Cava cream. Better yet, brings friends and join in on a family style serving of patatas bravas with five cheeses.

Cava Alta 17
Madrid
Tel +34 913 658 237

Taberna Agrado

Meaning to please in Spanish, Agrado does everything to stay true to its name. Although only a week old at the time of publishing, the tiny modern taberna tucked in amongst the winding backstreets of Madrid, already has a large following of locals who know to appreciate good customer service.  For those in need, the openhearted bartenders are quick to give a wine recommendation, favoring those from their hometown such the 2008 La Vendimia. Drinks are served with crumbled aged Parmesan drizzled with a tart olive oil. If you have come with an appetite Agrado has empanadas de carne with a spicy pebre of onions, pepper, and cilantro, and an excellent list of small dishes focusing on seasonal produce such as the ceviche with ripe mango and crunchy red onions, to please your hunger.

C/Ballesta 1
Madrid
Tel +34 915 216 346

Casa Lucas

Long lines speak for the popularity of this Cava Baja mainstay. So be sure to arrive early and put down your name for one of the coveted tables. This will give you enough time to browse the chalkboard’s daily specials and skim the crowds for a friendly face. Dim lighting and laughter make it easy to find a conversation and enjoy the homey atmosphere over a glass of dry white Peñedes and their classic tapa of pork loin on a confit of onions.

Calle Cava Baja 30
Madrid
Tel +34 913 650 804‎

La Perejila

The tiny entrance to La Perejila is easy to miss despite its green color, but sneak a peak inside and the soft breeze of Andalusia will beckon you in.  Flamenco memorabilia covers the walls and lends a distinct touch to the colorful nightspot frequented by the La Latina’s bohemians. Saddle up to the bar and toast to the vibrant atmosphere with a glass of Cava. Be sure to try the salmorejo, a deliciously refreshing soup similar to gazpacho, and if you are feeling like something heartier the toast of sobrasada and warm goat cheese with a drizzle of caramel will leave you craving for more and happy you haven’t missed this jewel of a bar.

Calle Cava Baja 25
Madrid
Tel +34 913 642 855‎

La Camarilla

A total contrast to the sleek dining room, the bar area of la Camarilla with its bistro tables and worn terra cotta tiled floor, is the perfect pit stop on a tour through La Latina. After a morning of scouring antiques at the Rastro market around the corner, enjoy a typical Madrid breakfast of café cortado and toast with tomato and olive oil. Come back at night to pick and choose from the tapas on display, from salmon rolls filled with a scallop béchamel to sautéed mushrooms topped with green pardon peppers. While the night is still young, browse the long list of wines representing every corner of Spain and enjoy a glass while the music continues to play until the early morning.

Calle Cava Baja 21
Madrid, Spain
+34 913 540 207

Mercado San Miguel

Come on a weekend and hear a medley of languages bounce off of the beautifully restored marketplace. Crowds of Madrileños and world citizens pulse through the wrought iron stands whittling away the hours with laughter and conversation. Home to small upscale shops by day, the market turns into one big tapas bar at night offering a wide range of delicacies from cured ham, to artisan cheese, olives, almonds, and melt in your mouth seafood tapas. Try the traditional sardine tapa with an unconventional curry sauce, a surprisingly divine combination. The Pinkelton & Wine bar has an excellent red, 2007 CLIO, the perfect way to sip the night away watching as the world passes by the glow of the Mercado.

Plaza de Oriente 3
Madrid
Tel +34 915 415 104‎

Bar Miguel Angel

Hidden within the entrance to an apartment building, is a white door that takes you down into a cellar filled with small wooden tables. This is Bar Miguel Angel, the secret tip of everyone in the barrio: breakfast joint in the morning, white table dining at lunch, after work hangout for young professionals on weekends. But those who really know stop in between 7pm and 9pm, when the mood is mellow and the tables in the alcove are still free. Following tradition every glass comes with a heaping plate of tapas to choose from. Cured ham on pisto with melted goat cheese, or the ubiquitous tortilla Espanola, the options change everyday but the flavor is consistent.

Calle de Miguel Ángel 6
Madrid

Jose Luis

An institution for over 50 years, Jose Luis has locations throughout Madrid, as well as in Sevilla and Barcelona. But the original is in the prestigious Calle Serrano in Madrid. A fashionable establishment of the 60’s, artists, writers, and professionals were drawn by the ambient and the large variety of tapas. Today’s crowd is a mix of decades of regulars, enjoying drinks at the bar or the daily menu. Try to get a seat at one of the two tables in the bar area to enjoy a casual meal among friends with all the pomp that Jose Luis has retained over the years. The counter offers a broad range of traditional tapas to choose from, be sure to savor a variety to see what makes the Madrileños come back day after day, year for year.

Calle de Serrano 89
Madrid
Tel +34 915 616 413‎

Lateral

The answer to many Madrileños search for modern, sleek, tapas at a good price, Lateral has several strategic locations throughout Madrid. Take a break from shopping your way down Calle Fuencarral with a medley of tapas at Lateral.  But make sure to plan in some waiting time as the young and the fashionable flock here in droves for light dishes with a blast of flavor. Try the rolls of salmon filled with cream cheese and caramelized apples, a warm salad of grilled eggplant, caramelized onions, and goat cheese, or roasted pimientos de pardon with olive oil and sea salt-an emblematic tapa throughout Spain.

C/ Fuencarral, 43
Madrid
Tel +34 91 531 68 77

Spain is packed full of beautiful towns and villages, ranging from the Arab white washed hamlets of the south to slate “pizarra” villages of the north to sandstone pueblos in the Balearic islands and tropical architecture of the Canary islands. It is near impossible to pick ten, but here is a good start: our selection of the ten most darling villages in Spain, in our most humble opinion.

Feel free to tell us your favorites, too as there are dozens more gorgeous towns!

TOP TEN MOST BEAUTIFUL VILLAGES IN SPAIN

1. Cadaqués

2. Cudillero

3. Hondarribia

4. Besalù

5. Trujillo

6. Pedraza

7. Ronda

8. La Orotava

La Orotava- Canarybird 2009

9. Úbeda

10. Deià

Enjoy some of our photos of Asturias, in Northern “Green” Spain, one of our FAVORITE places to disconnect, eat well and relax.  Stunning nature, sea and mountains, delicious local cuisine, super friendly locals- what more could one ask for?

Antonio Banderas- Wine Tourism Plans in Spain

The world´s favorite actor from Spain, Antonio Banderas, has long been interested in wine (he is part owner of a winery called “Anta Banderas ” in Ribera del Duero, making quality wines and olive oil) and he has announced last week that he anticipates some exciting new wine tourism projects at his estate. They are looking at the possibility of a wine hotel, also launching conferences and forums on wine and literature and he is quoted as saying “I want to promote wine tourism!”- sounds great to us! Antonio, we are waiting for more news on this wine hotel!

Antonio Banderas- Wine s

Many celebrities are attracted to the world of wine, from Gerard Depardieu who has a winery in the Loire (Chateau de Tigné) among other pet wine projects, to Jurassic Park star  Sam Neill who owns the Two Paddocks estate in New Zealand. And of course the most famous Hollywood personality involved in wine is Francis Ford Coppola whose Napa estate is hugely successful.