Memorable Dishes of 2010in France, Spain, Italy, and Ireland
It’s become an annual tradition: we look back at the last year and consider what the best meals of the year were. Last year we focused on Italy, and this year we are doing it across the board.
As we travel throughout the five countries where we offer our gourmet tours (France, Ireland, Spain, Portugal and France) throughout the year, between the whole team we get to try literally hundreds of restaurants throughout the year. These range from hole- in- the wall – family restaurants to gastro pubs to Michelin starred high end eateries.
We have selected some of our favorite dishes (as you can see we tended to favor simple preparations and top quality ingredients over complicated dishes) this past year with links to where we were lucky enough to taste them.
May 2011 be a terrific year for all our readers, may you eat and drink very well!
1. Seafood platter, with delicious lobster and oysters, at Aherne’s in Youghal – county Cork, Ireland
The Mercado de San Miguel is the best thing to happen to Madrid in forever, and the popularity of the market’s food and wine stands and convivial atmosphere has soared to a stratospheric level. The weekends are heaving with happy locals and tourists alike munching on the gourmet goodies (stuffed peppers, oysters and champagne, Galician octopus, Catalan canelones, marinated olives, artisan cheeses, Jamón de Bellota, Chorizo, etc) and buckets of vino de Rioja, Ribera del Duero, Sherry, Cava, Priorat….
We got the camera out and took some shots of this lovingly restored historic market, enjoy! And if you find yourself in Madrid, a visit here is a must. Best enjoyed midweek and before dinnertime. If you don’t mind crowds, the weekends are a whole lot of fun, with occasional entertainment. They recently had a Galician themed night with food and wine from Galicia, Galician musicians performing and a fantastic -but packed!- ambience.
Information on the Mercado de San Miguel:
Opening Times:
Monday, Tuesday, Wednesday and Sunday 10AM- midnight
Thursday, Friday and Saturday- 10AM – 2AM (after 10PM the whole market becomes a cool wine bar!)
Address: The Plaza San Miguel, Madrid (right next tot he Plaza Mayor)
Restaurants in Barcelona- Notes from a Foodie Weekend
We were in Barcelona last weekend checking out new suppliers, taking in some meetings and visiting some of our favorite foodie partners, here are some notes from our trip and tips for your next visit to Barcelona.
FRIDAY- CASA CALVET- We arrived to town after 9PM but managed to get freshened up before our late dinner at Casa Calvet. What a beautiful place! Located in a Catalan mansion designed by none other than Gaudi for a textile mogul at the turn of the last century, the whimsical dining room is all stained glass, “Modernista” design, mirrors, polished wood and brass. A “brindis” (toast) with cava was in order as we admired the setting and ordered the food. We shared wild mushrooms with chestnuts and Jamón Ibérico, perhaps not the most adventurous, but delish. Other interesting starters included Bomba rice with conger eel and seasonal veg & Apple and foie gras ravioli with truffle cream. Alvaro Palacio´s “Terrasses” from Priorat was good value here and just gorgeous. The mains selected were a delicate cod steak confit with porcini mushrooms and arbequina olives, artichoke chips and a rich duck liver with chickpeas and Iberian pancetta, aromatized with cumin. Gluttony, not hunger, made us finish with Apple tart tatin, made fresh to order. The other patrons dining this late were a mix of elegant Catalan couples and tourists. The food was not ground breaking or unique enough to be featured in a Bourdain episode, but was still very good and the setting beautiful, recommend for a special occasion.
SATURDAY- EMBAT AND FONDA GAIG- While we normally breakfast at the Boqueria market when in town (cava and Joan´s garbanzos with Morcilla at Pinotxo in the market are a MUST), we had a meeting so had a quickie breakfast at “any old bar” of simple pan amb tomaquet (country bread drizzled with olive oil and sea salt and rubbed with tomatoes) and freshly squeezed orange juice as you do when in Spain…
Lunch was with our friend, writer Tara Stevens who is launching a new cookbook as we speak (more on that later…) at the quite fantabulous “Embat“. We had heard good things about this swish little eatery, and it was the perfect lunch venue- light, airy, friendly, and not so crowded (dinner is more “sceney” apparently). Dinner was supposed to be the highlight today but lunch stole the show. The wine list is very, very good, we selected a bottle of the current vintage of Vallegarcía Viognier (one of our favorite Spanish white wines), and it was peachy, fresh and creamy, love that wine. An amuse bouche of Cauliflower pannacotta with caviar set the tone (mmmmms and ooooohs) and we continued with STUNNING cannelones stuffed with duck (a flagship dish, Canelons d’ànec amb rossinyols de pi”), seared scallops with apple and pancetta, and followed with heavenly slow cooked beef, lobster rice and pigeon three ways. Simply yum, yum and more yum. I think dessert was actually a favorite dish, a refreshing “Sopa de romaní amb meló i llimona” ( a kind of soupy sorbet of melon, lemon and rosemary). Too delicious to describe in words… We were stuffed at this stage so decided to walk it off and do some gourmet shopping while in town. Visits to Escribà, Cacao Sampaka, the Corte Inglés supermarket were in order!
Dinner thenwas at Fonda Gaig, an old time favorite, relaxed, understated and chic, with traditional Catalan cuisine served in a brasserie setting by mythical Michelin starred chef Carles Gaig (Fonda Gaig is his nostalgic eatery, known for its trad cuisine while “Restaurante Gaig“, located at the stylish Hotel Cram is the trendy, creative Michelin starred eatery.) Don´t ask us where we found room (the more you eat the hungrier you get!), but we managed to have a full dinner and dessert (!): Salteado de setas de temporada (sautéed wild mushrooms) and Senyor Gaig’s biblical croquettes. For mains Pato con peras (duck with pears) , Vieiras con salteado de alcachofas (scallops with artichokes) and Albondigas con sepia (meatballs with cuttlefish). To finish, nothing else would do but Crema Catalana, sublime. We were dying for a bottle of Artadi Rioja, but they just sold the last bottle so we had a very good bottle of Muga. We waddled back to our hotel, luckily a good 20 minute walk so we were able to digest… a bit….
SUNDAY- CASA DELFÍN- Our friend Kate who owns the truly wonderful Taller de Tapas chain (in our view the freshest and absolute best tapas in Barcelona!) invited us down to her newest venue in Barcelona, the Casa Delfín, a historic and well loved neighborhood restaurant that Kate recently took over. Respecting the clientele and traditional Catalan cuisine, Casa Delfín has all the classic dishes on offer, as well as traditional tapas (Padrón peppers, anchovies, Jamón, calamares, you name it). While the inside of the restaurant is darling, kind of Parisian bistro a la Catalana, it was a sunny day and sitting inside on such a beautiful afternoon was not an option! We tasted our way through their tapas menu (major highlights were the savory garbanzos, and the nearly sweet, utterly buenísimo sautéed artichokes) and for mains had absolutely delicious seafood rice and a Sunday staple, liver and onions. They serve zippy Alella by the glass and, unusual for Spain, have some nice half bottles on offer. The crowd inside was all local, many older, elegant Catalan couples, while outside on the “terraza” was a mix of funky, younger locals and tourists like us Recommended, especially for Sunday lunch.
For our digestif, we took a long walk from the Borne quarter into the Eixample and sat down for a Campari at the lovely Casa Fuster, our main hotel partner in Barcelona. They have a beautiful bar which is a stylish, relaxed place to have an afternoon drink or coffee and read the newspaper, listen to jazz. Casa Fuster is the coolest place to stay in Barcelona in our opinion, for location, rooms and setting. And alas, late afternoon called for packing, weighing suitcases exploding with our gourmet shopping, and heading to the airport. A reveure, Barcelona!
Other spots we love in Barcelona: Cinc Sentits (for an elegant but unpretentious Michelin starred dinner delivered in perfect English as the owners are Canadian-Catalan), Abac (for a special “date night” Michelin dinner in glam setting), the old fashioned and pretty “La Dama” restaurant (romantic), Katherine´s Formageria de la Seu cheese shop (where onsite cheese tastings can be organized), Sergi Arola`s trendy tapas bar at the Hotel Arts, and the tremendous wine selection at the Vila Viniteca enoteca (we organize Spanish cheese and wine masterclasses here in their cellar). On our next visit to Barcelona we plan to dine again (it´s been a while) at Alkimia and will check out Carles Abellan´s newish Tapaç 24.
Known for their wine and fanatic adoration of everything ham, Spaniards are equally as enamored with their cheese, and rightly so. Running the gamut from sharp and creamy to firm but mild, the range of Spanish cheeses mirrors the varied terrain that characterizes their distinct flavors.
Here’s just a sprinkling of Spain’s lactic delights to whet your appetite.
CABRALES, D.O.P. 1981
Elaborated in the lush mountains of Asturias, in the north of Spain, the flavor of this acclaimed blue cheese is tied to the region’s landscape. The herds of cows, sheep, and goats, that produce the milk for Cabrales, feed in the high pastures of Asturias. The ripening process takes place in natural mountain caves that are passed on from generation to generation—from which Cabrales receives its characteristic blue-green veining. Slightly granular, Cabrales has a spicy yet salty bite that pairs perfectly with a sweet sherry from the South of Spain.
IDIAZABAL , D.O.P. 1987
Another cheese from the northern regions of Spain, Idiazábal is located on the other end of the flavor spectrum. Mild with a nutty presence, this firm cheese is produced in two varieties, smoked and plain. The smoked variety spends up to 10 days over fires of Cherry, Birchwood, or Hawthorne, from which it retains an ocher rind, compared to the buttery yellow tone of a plain Idiazábal. Predominantly elaborated in the Basque country and Navarre region, Idiazábal was given its D.O.P. to protect the Latxa and Carranza sheep. These native species of the region only produce a small quantity of milk per year, resulting in a limited and exclusive supply of true Idiazábal.
Idiazábal
MAHON, D.O.P. 1985
The tiny Balearic island of Menorca is a culinary hothouse, the birthplace of mayonnaise (Mahon-aise) and the cultivating ground for Mahon cheese, whose salty sharp taste is reminiscent of the island’s briny coast. A cow’s milk cheese, Mahon undergoes a series of baths in olive oil and/or Pimentón, a spice similar to paprika. Like cheddar, the bright white cheese grows darker, sharper, and crumbles with age. You can find three different stages of Mahon: soft, semi-cured, and cured. A soft Mahon has a barely developed white/orange rind and white to yellow creamy yet firm interior. The taste, while suave, still has the characteristic brine and a sharp tinge to it. In comparison the semi-cured Mahon’s rind is a brownish orange, the cheese an ivory yellow. With a more developed bouquet of flavors typical of Mahon, including notes of toasted nuts, the cheese still retains the milky notes of a younger Mahon. The cured Mahon, on the other hand, is a cheese made in cheese-lovers heaven. Powerful, evoking flavors of tobacco, leather, and spices, the aged cheese crumbles to the cut and lingers on the palate—especially paired with a strong honey.
Mahon
MANCHEGO, D.O.P. 1996
Mentioned by Cervantes, in the world’s first modern novel Don Quijote, Manchego has always been a protagonist on the culinary scene. Found in tapas bars across the country, Manchego belongs to Spain like flashy clothes to flamenco. Produced in central Spain, the region of La Mancha, Manchego’s savor reflects the arid landscape it is crafted in. The ancestral race of Manchegean sheep that supply the milk, feed off of the sparse vegetation, marking Manchego with a distinctive zest. Similar to Parmesan, Manchego demonstrates fruity notes that balance out its sharp acidity. The texture is firm with small air pockets spread throughout the yellow/white cheese surrounded by a hard rind.
MURCIA AL VINO, D.O.P.
Known as “Drunken Goat” in the U.S. this goat cheese matured in wine comes from the region of Murcia from which it gets its name. The idea to soak this goat milk cheese in baths of red wine came as a governmental impulse to create an innovative cheese to put Murcia on the gastronomic map. The non-pasteurized cheese is washed and pressed into shape before multiple wine baths can give the rind its signature dark pomegranate color. In contrast the cheese is a stark white, supple yet easy to cut, with a creamy mild quality underlined by a hint of yoghurt.
TORTA DEL CASAR, D.O.P.
The name Torta del Casar comes from the rather irregular shape the cheese took on when the soft inside was unable to sustain its shape, reminding the people of Extremadura of a cake instead. This semi-liquid interior, strikingly similar to a cheese dip, is what makes this cheese so famous and delectable. By using vegetable rennet made from thistles to coagulate the sheep’s milk, the producers achieve this highly creamy texture and signature taste. To enjoy the melt-in-your-mouth experience that is Torta del Casar, you must cut of the top of the soft rind so that you can scoop out the inside with pieces of bread. Make sure that the cheese is at room temperature so that the aromas can unfold and the cheese becomes runny.
When making a culinary pilgrimage through Spain, Seville is not to be missed. Home to a vibrant flamenco scene and extensive network of tapas bars, Seville is clearly a town of bon vivants. And Sevilleans are not greedy. They are more than happy to share their lust for life with anyone who makes it down their winding cobblestone streets aged by history and heavy with the essence of lives lived to the fullest.
Start your day at the tiny Bar Europa café. Tucked into the corner of the quaint Plaza del Pan, patrons can look out onto passersby as they sip at their café con leche. Sidle up to the long mahogany bar, still part of the original decoration from 1925, and browse the menu of tapas that has secured Bar Europa in Seville’s Ruta de la Tapa.
Continue on to the cathedral. Built upon the foundation of an old mosque it is the third largest church in the world in length but the largest in square meters. Climb the 35 floors to o the top of the minaret and you will be left breathless, not only because of the hike, but the reward: an expansive view of all of Seville.
After a well-deserved siesta, ring in the evening at El Rinconcillo, claimed to be the oldest bar in Seville. Lined with years of wine and vermouth, the decades converge in El Rinconcillo, where hams hang from the ceiling and the waiter jots down your tab on the bar in chalk. Order some wines and share a bowl of salmorejo, a true Andalusian specialty similar to a gazpacho.
Continue your tapas tour to Bar Eslava—a narrow tapas bar with a smattering of tables in the back. Hugely popular, the spot fills up early with dancers, musicians, writers, and the grande dames of old Seville. Be sure to catch the name of your waiter! As long as you address them directly and aren’t scared to be vocal with your orders, a flurry of tapas will come your way. The menu has some of the best tapas in Seville, but the Navajas, or Razor clams, are sure to change your life. Cooked on the grill, with a splash of olive oil and pinch of sea salt, their maritime taste is enhanced with a dab of lemon juice.
But don’t have your last glass just yet! Leave some room for La Carboneria , a flamenco bar hidden behind a red door in the old Jewish district. Enjoy the intimate flamenco shows, and perhaps some impromptu dancing…after all, that is how Seville seduces all her lovers.
Everybody in Madrid has their Tapas bar- their secret neighborhood hideaway. Whether for a morning coffee, a midday snack, or a late night bottle among friends, madrileños live their lives in their favorite haunts. Here are just ten of our favorite tapas bars in Madrid, to give you a taste. But when you walk through the winding cobblestone streets of Madrid, you will be sure to stumble upon your very own taberna.
As the collaboration between Argentinean mixologist, Diego Cabrera and Sergi Arola, the culinary mastermind behind many of Spain’s great restaurants, Le Cabrera could settle back on their good names, but that would go against this new Gastrobar’s principles. Whether in its boutique tapas or distinct cocktails, Le Cabrera gives top ingredients the limelight. Split into two levels diners can start the evening upstairs with a glass mellow red Terrazgo, and follow up with one of Cabrera’s signature drinks in the downstairs cocktail lounge. Or enjoy the night at the open kitchen’s bar, where you can watch the chefs create the stars that make Le Cabrera shine. Even though head chef, Benjamin Bensoussan, is originally from Marseille his traditional tapas with a twist could fool any Madrileño into believing he was a native. Tiny rolls of potatoes hiding a spicy center and topped with a smooth garlic aioli, are what Le Cabrera calls patatas bravas; a worthy addition to any gourmand’s dictionary.
Calle Bárbara de Braganza 2
Madrid
Tel +34 913 199 457
Rustic yet refined, Matritum is set back from the busy bustle of Cava Baja. Enter into the cozy dining room and watch the dim lighting reflect off of the over 400 wines on display, which the in house sommelier will be more than happy to go guide you through. Treat yourself to one of Matritum’s specialties: pan seared foie with a confit of oven roasted apples and onions or a gratin of scallops in a luscious Cava cream. Better yet, brings friends and join in on a family style serving of patatas bravas with five cheeses.
Cava Alta 17
Madrid
Tel +34 913 658 237
Taberna Agrado
Meaning to please in Spanish, Agrado does everything to stay true to its name. Although only a week old at the time of publishing, the tiny modern taberna tucked in amongst the winding backstreets of Madrid, already has a large following of locals who know to appreciate good customer service. For those in need, the openhearted bartenders are quick to give a wine recommendation, favoring those from their hometown such the 2008 La Vendimia. Drinks are served with crumbled aged Parmesan drizzled with a tart olive oil. If you have come with an appetite Agrado has empanadas de carne with a spicy pebre of onions, pepper, and cilantro, and an excellent list of small dishes focusing on seasonal produce such as the ceviche with ripe mango and crunchy red onions, to please your hunger.
Long lines speak for the popularity of this Cava Baja mainstay. So be sure to arrive early and put down your name for one of the coveted tables. This will give you enough time to browse the chalkboard’s daily specials and skim the crowds for a friendly face. Dim lighting and laughter make it easy to find a conversation and enjoy the homey atmosphere over a glass of dry white Peñedes and their classic tapa of pork loin on a confit of onions.
Calle Cava Baja 30
Madrid
Tel +34 913 650 804
La Perejila
The tiny entrance to La Perejila is easy to miss despite its green color, but sneak a peak inside and the soft breeze of Andalusia will beckon you in. Flamenco memorabilia covers the walls and lends a distinct touch to the colorful nightspot frequented by the La Latina’s bohemians. Saddle up to the bar and toast to the vibrant atmosphere with a glass of Cava. Be sure to try the salmorejo, a deliciously refreshing soup similar to gazpacho, and if you are feeling like something heartier the toast of sobrasada and warm goat cheese with a drizzle of caramel will leave you craving for more and happy you haven’t missed this jewel of a bar.
A total contrast to the sleek dining room, the bar area of la Camarilla with its bistro tables and worn terra cotta tiled floor, is the perfect pit stop on a tour through La Latina. After a morning of scouring antiques at the Rastro market around the corner, enjoy a typical Madrid breakfast of café cortado and toast with tomato and olive oil. Come back at night to pick and choose from the tapas on display, from salmon rolls filled with a scallop béchamel to sautéed mushrooms topped with green pardon peppers. While the night is still young, browse the long list of wines representing every corner of Spain and enjoy a glass while the music continues to play until the early morning.
Come on a weekend and hear a medley of languages bounce off of the beautifully restored marketplace. Crowds of Madrileños and world citizens pulse through the wrought iron stands whittling away the hours with laughter and conversation. Home to small upscale shops by day, the market turns into one big tapas bar at night offering a wide range of delicacies from cured ham, to artisan cheese, olives, almonds, and melt in your mouth seafood tapas. Try the traditional sardine tapa with an unconventional curry sauce, a surprisingly divine combination. The Pinkelton & Wine bar has an excellent red, 2007 CLIO, the perfect way to sip the night away watching as the world passes by the glow of the Mercado.
Plaza de Oriente 3
Madrid
Tel +34 915 415 104
Bar Miguel Angel
Hidden within the entrance to an apartment building, is a white door that takes you down into a cellar filled with small wooden tables. This is Bar Miguel Angel, the secret tip of everyone in the barrio: breakfast joint in the morning, white table dining at lunch, after work hangout for young professionals on weekends. But those who really know stop in between 7pm and 9pm, when the mood is mellow and the tables in the alcove are still free. Following tradition every glass comes with a heaping plate of tapas to choose from. Cured ham on pisto with melted goat cheese, or the ubiquitous tortilla Espanola, the options change everyday but the flavor is consistent.
An institution for over 50 years, Jose Luis has locations throughout Madrid, as well as in Sevilla and Barcelona. But the original is in the prestigious Calle Serrano in Madrid. A fashionable establishment of the 60’s, artists, writers, and professionals were drawn by the ambient and the large variety of tapas. Today’s crowd is a mix of decades of regulars, enjoying drinks at the bar or the daily menu. Try to get a seat at one of the two tables in the bar area to enjoy a casual meal among friends with all the pomp that Jose Luis has retained over the years. The counter offers a broad range of traditional tapas to choose from, be sure to savor a variety to see what makes the Madrileños come back day after day, year for year.
The answer to many Madrileños search for modern, sleek, tapas at a good price, Lateral has several strategic locations throughout Madrid. Take a break from shopping your way down Calle Fuencarral with a medley of tapas at Lateral. But make sure to plan in some waiting time as the young and the fashionable flock here in droves for light dishes with a blast of flavor. Try the rolls of salmon filled with cream cheese and caramelized apples, a warm salad of grilled eggplant, caramelized onions, and goat cheese, or roasted pimientos de pardon with olive oil and sea salt-an emblematic tapa throughout Spain.
Spanish “jamón” is known all over the world, and Spain´s seafood is legendary. There is no question that Spain is one of the most fascinating culinary destinations in the world. But often vegetarians worry if Spain also offers enough non meat/fish options for them to have enough interesting and tasty options while touring. The answer is: you have to look for them and do your research, but yes, yes, yes!
Some sample veggie dishes you can find in Spain, particularly in the Atlantic and Mediterranean north include:
* Sautéed Boletus mushrooms
* Mushrooms (champiñones) served “al ajillo” (panfried with olive oil and loads of garlic)
* Marinated and often smoked spicy piquillo red peppers
* Risotto style “arroz” rice dishes featuring Idiazabal cheese (from Basque Country), or wild mushrooms or asparagus
* White asparagus from Tudela
* Pimientos de Padrón- delicious little green Galician peppers roast with sea salt and olive oil. 1 in 10 is seriously spicy!
* Marinated artichoke hearts from Navarre
* Lightly breaded and expertly fried eggplant (a Spanish recipe with Moorish origins)
* Endives with a Cabrales (blue cheese from Asturias) sauce
* Swiss chard in a delicate cheese sauce
* Caneloni stuffed with spinach (Catalan recipe)
*Escalivada- roast eggplant, peppers, onion, tomato dish with tons of olive oil and course salt. fabulous…
* Pisto Manchego- similar to Ratatouille. Warning: sometimes come with tuna, so do ask.
* Gazpacho- that quintessential summer dish is a healthy and delicious cold soup made of tomatoes, bread, garlic, and plenty of variations
* Ajoblanco- another great summer soup made of almonds, garlic, grapes
* Goat´s cheese salad with walnuts and apples (ensalada de cabra)
* Manchego cheese with pinenuts and honey
* all manor of scrambled eggs (”revuelto”) with asparagus, queso, setas (wild mushrooms), etc
* Catalan style spinach (”espinacas catalanas”), sautéed with raisins, pinenuts, breadcrumbs and onion
* Fruit brochettes (pineapple especially)
And of course tapas like marinated olives, pan fried almonds with chili (”guindilla”) and patatas bravas (potatoes with a spicy sauce).
Here is a terrific list of vegetarian restaurants in Spain
When ordering in restaurants, a word of advice is to tell the wait staff that you are medically and seriously “allergic” to meat/seafood as often bits of chorizo/jamón, even fish are thrown into veggie dishes without letting you know.
We asked local Barcelona gourmet guru and professional travel writer Tara Stevens to recommend a fabulous eatery in Barcelona for our most special clients looking for a memorable lunch, and here is what Tara shared with us:
Fonda Gaig-
Thoroughly enjoyed this. Service was a delight, aside from the sour faced puss manning the till when we left. Señora Gaig was particularly welcoming. The place is vast, creamy decor with lovely plump, red, leather armchairs at each table laid with linen and Riedel glasses, so that you really feel inspired to sit back and get stuck in. Actually, my friend and I spent half of lunch snuggling deep into these fabulous creations declaring how wonderful it all was. Felt luxurious without being stuffy. There’s no music (piped or otherwise) and they’ve got excellent white sound so you’re not disturbed by other tables, but equally there’s a good sense of space here. Don’t feel crammed in at all. Overall atmosphere is really very laid back, the staff pleasant without being overly fussy (which I find perfect).
The food is very traditionally Catalan – canelones (superb), wood cock on the specials (ultra gamey, but definitely a winner for a lot of folks), a boring ensalada de huerta (but then, salad is salad and we needed something green), excellent plump, sweet scallops with friend artichoke quarters. Great bread, less good oils and vinegars, and a substantial though not wildly interesting wine list (if you look hard you’ll find some interesting boutique wineries like Baigorri, but generally pretty much what you’d expect) and interestingly enough the Catalan wines seem to have a higher price hike than those from Rioja or Ribera, say.
Our bill came in at €136, and I left a €10 which is a lot for lunch. However, we choose a mid-range wine €31.60 for a Marques de Vargas 2004, and the woodcock was pricey being a seasonal game bird. A quick gander at a couple of other bills on leaving told me that €100 for two was more standard.
All in all though, I left feeling I’d had a treat, largely because you feel so cosseted sitting there. Compare this to a few weeks ago when I ate at Fermí Puig’s Petit Comite, and felt ripped off by the time I’d finished. And they invited me. But really, who charges €13 for a potato?
Fonda Gaig to sum up- it’s new, of the moment, a great destination for a long lunch or dinner, very relaxed, very Catalan and super comfortable. Best of all they’ll get to rub shoulders with genuine uptowners as opposed to destination diners.
We spent another couple days after the conference visiting wineries, some like Finca Valpiedra with whom we have been working for years, and other new ones like the spectacular Baigorri. We had a GREAT time! Here are the notes on our visits:
Marqués de Vargas
Located just outside Logroño next to the ultra prestigious Marqués de Murrieta, Eva is the polite host at this regal estate. The winery is uniquely a “Chateau” style and the owner is an aristocrat who also has a beautiful family residence on the estate. The winery is set up to receive VIP guests and they indeed cater to guests looking for exclusive tours. We tasted their flagship Rioja Reserva (not a tough way to start the day!) and other wines you can enjoy on private tours here include their white Pazo San Mauro albariño (made in their sister estate in Galicia) and rich Conde de San Cristóbal, made in the Ribera del Duero wine region. In spring and summer, the white wine can be taken as an aperitif overlooking their picturesque vineyards and then reds will follow in the professional tasting room. Delicious wine and an elegant place, loved it.
More info onthe Marqués de Vargaswine estate here.
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Baigorri
One of Rioja´s newest and most innovative wineries, Baigorri is located just outside of the darling medieval hamlet of Samaniego (where cult winery Remirez de Ganuza´s estate is). The winery´s main attraction (apart from the wines of course) is its giant glass “box” which is perched on a platform and offers dramatic panoramic views over the vineyard-covered valleys on all sides.This estate offers a nice contemporary contrast to the older, historic cellars. The staff are young, competent and friendly and the wines were quite good. Geni gave us a great tour!
We dined at their beautiful restaurant overlooking the vineyards (other views in the restaurant look over the hundreds of oak barriques below). We tried the tasting menu pared with the entire line of wines (we were not driving!) and had the following outstanding lunch:
Amuse Bouches: Paté a la trufa natural (pate made with truffle) and Anchoa con pimiento del cristal (sauteed anchovy accompanied by “crystallized” red piquillo pepper), Croquetas caseras (homemade croquettes which were UNBELIEVABLE) and Salmón cruijiente al limón (crunch salmon a la lemon)- these were paired with the Baigorri fermentado en barrica (French barrel fermented Viura)
Appetizer/Starter: Alubias del pais con morcilla (in the photo below, this is a simple and delicious country dish made with local beans, blood pudding and tangy Guindilla peppers), paired with the Baigorri Crianza (juicy red, loved it)
Entre/ Main Course: Carillera de Ibérico al maceración Carbónica con hongos (slow cooked Iberian pork jowl cooked in young wine and mushrooms- paired with the Baigorri Garaje (Garage wine, their top wine, very good) and we also tasted their Reserva wine (actually preferred the Crianza to the reserva, but Garaje was favorite of them all).
Dessert- Cremoso de yema con yogurt, frutos rojos y helado crujiente- too many calories to describe, lovely
The Finca Valpiedra has long been one of our favorite partners in La Rioja. This estate has it all- fabulous wines, stunning location overlooking the river and unspoiled vineyards in all directions, professional tasting room with million dollar views- and now they have Arancha. One of the most dynamic wine tourism professionals we have met in a long time in Spain, she is passionate about her job and about the estate´s wines. This is always fantastic for us to see, and we spent the late afternoon tasting Finca Valpiedrás finest wines including a vertical tasting of different Valpiedra vintages, 2 vintages of their 2nd brand (which we are crazy about) Cantos and various wines from their sister winery Finca Antigua (located in La Mancha) such as the simple but aromatic 100% blanco (made with Viura that spends 5 months on its lees), a delicious Moscatel and their cult (pricey) Clavis wine. We have some new, fun ideas for our tours here that will be very, very special….
Don´t let the industrial location of this FABULOUS winery put you off. When you first arrive to Ontañon, you are not sure if you are arriving to a winery or a car dealership as indeed the previous life of this winery was a factory and the unattractive area outside completely hides the gem inside. Once you enter you literally enter another world. The infectious enthusiasm and charm of guide Jesus will win you over immediately and the interior is an alluring combination of medieval museum/ antiquities gallery adorned with wine barrels and bottles. We have worked with Ontañon for a few years and the quality of their tours has gone from strength to strength. On this particular morning, after a stroll through the cellar we tasted the Gran Reserva with Jesus, as well as their dessert wine and some high end olive oils they are now making. The winery (uniquely for the region) has a great shop with plenty of wine paraphenelia on offer, such as their own made wine chocolates, and wine spa products from the Nueva Antigua product line, made in Logroño. We love Ontañon and have some new ideas for this year such as Jazz and Wine….
Not many wineries can boast they have an actual castle, and the tiny medieval nucleus of this wine estate and hamlet is quite special. The estate is precious with manicured vineyards, gardens, a historic castle and views over a tiny, flowing stream. And the wines are something else! We were hosted by the sales director and wine tourism manager and spent Sunday morning sipping their Rioja Reserva in a stone room of the castle. In nice weather, tastings can be organized outside in their pretty patio or even within the vineyard under a giant oak tree. This estate is in the very early stages of opening up for exclusive tours and we are excited to be working with them this year, adding them to our portfolio of partners. Fun fact- their wine maker is the super famous flying winemaker Ana Martin (of Itsas Mendi in Basque Country, Guitian in Valdeorras and Traslanzas in Cigales).
More info onthe Castillo de Cuzcurritawine estate here.
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Want to visit La Rioja? Here is some information on the Rioja wine region as well as a list of wineries, some of which open to the general public. You can either sign up for a private and VIP chauffeured tour or you can have your hotel help you organize visits and local taxis. Don´t risk driving your own car if you will be tasting, as the wines here are strong (14 degrees +) and pourings generous!
Stay at the dramatic 5* Luxury Hotel designed by Frank Gehry at the Marqués de Riscal wine estate, the comfortable 4* Villa de Laguardia, or the rustic but adorable Villa de Abalos. If you speak Spanish then one of the many little country inns in Rioja could be an inexpensive and cozy choice.
While in Rioja, why not add a few days on to your vacation in the nearby Basque Country where you can eat at a number of Michelin starred restaurants, visit beautiful San Sebastian, check out the one and only Guggenheim museum in Bilbao, etc.
Rioja is simply one of our favorite wine regions in Europe and for wine lovers, we cannot suggest a trip here highly enough!
One of our all time favorite destinations in Europe is the Spanish region of Catalonia (called “Catalunya in their own language, Catalan).
The region is characterized by its Mediterranean coastline and cuisine, its world class artists from Salvador Dalì to Joan Mirò, its top chefs (Ferran Adrià, Carmen Ruscadella, Joan Roca, Santi Santamria and so many more), its varied wine country and its architectural geniuses (Gaudi to Domènech i Montaner. Here are 10 of about 100 reasons why you should visit:
On Valentine´s Day this month, we were delighted to attend a phenomenal chocolate and wine tasting event in Madrid organized by Cristina Alonso of Vintage Spain. They offer these scheduled events regularly so check out their calendar. What a great night!
The venue- a private room at El Coso restaurant, where we had a superb dinner afterwards. Highly recommended for Madrileños or travelers visiting Madrid looking for a good value gourmet experience.
The concept - the theme was wine and chocolate pairing, and it was fascinating. Chocolate is traditionally paired with sweet wines, and in Spain it is also served with sparkling “Cava” during the holidays (a major wine crime actually as the bubbly tastes insipid when mixed with mouth coating chocolate). The purpose of this wine and chocolate tasting was to see how chocolate could hold up next to dry wines (although we did have one sweetie, more on that below), and the golden rules of pairing bitter with sweet.
The “Maridaje”- the pairing is called a “Marriage” in Spanish, and our marriage of wines and chocolates included:
CHOCOLATES- the line we tried was from the producer Valrhona
Jivara 40% cacao (milk chocolate)
Extra Bitter 61% cacao
Coeur de Guanaja 80% cacao
WINES- we tried the chocolates next to dry Spanish wines (white and red)
Finca Los Nevados Viognier- one of our favorite Spanish whites at the moment.
Vallegarcia Viognier de Pago
Alidis Crianza – Ribera del Duero, Tempranillo
Lara O – Ribera del Duero,Tempranillo- outstanding wine, too!!
Alvear PX- Montilla Moriles, Pedro Ximenez
The Best Match- we personally enjoyed the Alvear PX with the 80% cacao chocolate the most. Surprisingly, the white Finca los Nevados Viognier with the milk chocolate was also gorgeous.
The Worst Match- the Alidis from Ribera del Duero was absolutely awful with the bitter chocolates.
The golden rules of chocolate and wine pairing we learned include-
- Pair the chocolates to wines with a similar “weight”, so heavy flavored chocolates with heavy wines; more delicately flavored chocolates with lighter wines.
- Match chocolates to wines with similar flavors (for example almonds, hazelnuts, cedar, spice, berries and forest fruits, creaminess, etc)
- Your tastebuds are your own! Virtually everyone at this tasting disagreed about the matches, and we had fun doing it!
Sommeliers traditionally recommend the following sweet or off dry wine and choco matches:
WHITE CHOCOLATE- Muscats, Late Harvest wines, Ice wine.
BITTER CHOCOLATE- Banyuls, LBV Port, Vintage Port, Amarone, Pedro Ximenez
Spanish Chocolate Makers- Spain is full of some fabulous chocolatiers. Established and reliable companies include Chocolates Valor and Chocovic. Enric Rovira is an artisan master choco maker who also does some cross merchandising of wine and chocolate with the Priorat Odysseus winery. At the top of our list though, of favorite Spanish companies is Cacao Sampaka (with ultra trendy choco shops in Madrid, Barcelona, Bilbao, Berlin, Valencia, Tokyo, Lisbon and Málaga).
Recommended, especially for Sunday lunch.
