When making a culinary pilgrimage through Spain, Seville is not to be missed. Home to a vibrant flamenco scene and extensive network of tapas bars, Seville is clearly a town of bon vivants. And Sevilleans are not greedy. They are more than happy to share their lust for life with anyone who makes it down their winding cobblestone streets aged by history and heavy with the essence of lives lived to the fullest.

Start your day at the tiny Bar Europa café. Tucked into the corner of the quaint Plaza del Pan, patrons can look out onto passersby as they sip at their café con leche. Sidle up to the long mahogany bar, still part of the original decoration from 1925, and browse the menu of tapas that has secured Bar Europa in Seville’s Ruta de la Tapa.

Continue on to the cathedral. Built upon the foundation of an old mosque it is the third largest church in the world in length but the largest in square meters. Climb the 35 floors to o the top of the minaret and you will be left breathless, not only because of the hike, but the reward: an expansive view of all of Seville.

After a well-deserved siesta, ring in the evening at El Rinconcillo, claimed to be the oldest bar in Seville. Lined with years of wine and vermouth, the decades converge in El Rinconcillo, where hams hang from the ceiling and the waiter jots down your tab on the bar in chalk. Order some wines and share a bowl of salmorejo, a true Andalusian specialty similar to a gazpacho.

Continue your tapas tour to Bar Eslava—a narrow tapas bar with a smattering of tables in the back. Hugely popular, the spot fills up early with dancers, musicians, writers, and the grande dames of old Seville. Be sure to catch the name of your waiter! As long as you address them directly and aren’t scared to be vocal with your orders, a flurry of tapas will come your way. The menu has some of the best tapas in Seville, but the Navajas, or Razor clams, are sure to change your life. Cooked on the grill, with a splash of olive oil and pinch of sea salt, their maritime taste is enhanced with a dab of lemon juice.

But don’t have your last glass just yet!  Leave some room for La Carboneria , a flamenco bar hidden behind a red door in the old Jewish district. Enjoy the intimate flamenco shows, and perhaps some impromptu dancing…after all, that is how Seville seduces all her lovers.

INFO

La Carboneria

Calle Levies, 18
41004 Sevilla, Spain
Tel +34 95 421 44 60

Bar Europa

Calle Siete Revueltas, 35,
41004 Sevilla, Spain
Tel +34 954 217 908‎

Bar/ Restaurante  Eslava

Calle Eslava, 3
41002 Sevilla, Spain
Tel +34 954 906 568

El Rinconcillo

Calle Gerona, 42
41003 Sevilla, Spain
Tel +34 954 223 183

Everybody in Madrid has their Tapas bar- their secret neighborhood hideaway. Whether for a morning coffee, a midday snack, or a late night bottle among friends, madrileños live their lives in their favorite haunts. Here are just ten of our favorite tapas bars in Madrid, to give you a taste. But when you walk through the winding cobblestone streets of Madrid, you will be sure to stumble upon your very own taberna.

by Martina Hemm

La Camarilla

Le Cabrera

As the collaboration between Argentinean mixologist, Diego Cabrera and Sergi Arola, the culinary mastermind behind many of Spain’s great restaurants, Le Cabrera could settle back on their good names, but that would go against this new Gastrobar’s principles. Whether in its boutique tapas or distinct cocktails, Le Cabrera gives top ingredients the limelight. Split into two levels diners can start the evening upstairs with a glass mellow red Terrazgo, and follow up with one of Cabrera’s signature drinks in the downstairs cocktail lounge. Or enjoy the night at the open kitchen’s bar, where you can watch the chefs create the stars that make Le Cabrera shine.  Even though head chef, Benjamin Bensoussan, is originally from Marseille his traditional tapas with a twist could fool any Madrileño into believing he was a native. Tiny rolls of potatoes hiding a spicy center and topped with a smooth garlic aioli, are what Le Cabrera calls patatas bravas; a worthy addition to any gourmand’s dictionary.

Calle Bárbara de Braganza 2
Madrid
Tel +34 913 199 457

Taberna Matritum

Rustic yet refined, Matritum is set back from the busy bustle of Cava Baja. Enter into the cozy dining room and watch the dim lighting reflect off of the over 400 wines on display, which the in house sommelier will be more than happy to go guide you through. Treat yourself to one of Matritum’s specialties: pan seared foie with a confit of oven roasted apples and onions or a gratin of scallops in a luscious Cava cream. Better yet, brings friends and join in on a family style serving of patatas bravas with five cheeses.

Cava Alta 17
Madrid
Tel +34 913 658 237

Taberna Agrado

Meaning to please in Spanish, Agrado does everything to stay true to its name. Although only a week old at the time of publishing, the tiny modern taberna tucked in amongst the winding backstreets of Madrid, already has a large following of locals who know to appreciate good customer service.  For those in need, the openhearted bartenders are quick to give a wine recommendation, favoring those from their hometown such the 2008 La Vendimia. Drinks are served with crumbled aged Parmesan drizzled with a tart olive oil. If you have come with an appetite Agrado has empanadas de carne with a spicy pebre of onions, pepper, and cilantro, and an excellent list of small dishes focusing on seasonal produce such as the ceviche with ripe mango and crunchy red onions, to please your hunger.

C/Ballesta 1
Madrid
Tel +34 915 216 346

Casa Lucas

Long lines speak for the popularity of this Cava Baja mainstay. So be sure to arrive early and put down your name for one of the coveted tables. This will give you enough time to browse the chalkboard’s daily specials and skim the crowds for a friendly face. Dim lighting and laughter make it easy to find a conversation and enjoy the homey atmosphere over a glass of dry white Peñedes and their classic tapa of pork loin on a confit of onions.

Calle Cava Baja 30
Madrid
Tel +34 913 650 804‎

La Perejila

The tiny entrance to La Perejila is easy to miss despite its green color, but sneak a peak inside and the soft breeze of Andalusia will beckon you in.  Flamenco memorabilia covers the walls and lends a distinct touch to the colorful nightspot frequented by the La Latina’s bohemians. Saddle up to the bar and toast to the vibrant atmosphere with a glass of Cava. Be sure to try the salmorejo, a deliciously refreshing soup similar to gazpacho, and if you are feeling like something heartier the toast of sobrasada and warm goat cheese with a drizzle of caramel will leave you craving for more and happy you haven’t missed this jewel of a bar.

Calle Cava Baja 25
Madrid
Tel +34 913 642 855‎

La Camarilla

A total contrast to the sleek dining room, the bar area of la Camarilla with its bistro tables and worn terra cotta tiled floor, is the perfect pit stop on a tour through La Latina. After a morning of scouring antiques at the Rastro market around the corner, enjoy a typical Madrid breakfast of café cortado and toast with tomato and olive oil. Come back at night to pick and choose from the tapas on display, from salmon rolls filled with a scallop béchamel to sautéed mushrooms topped with green pardon peppers. While the night is still young, browse the long list of wines representing every corner of Spain and enjoy a glass while the music continues to play until the early morning.

Calle Cava Baja 21
Madrid, Spain
+34 913 540 207

Mercado San Miguel

Come on a weekend and hear a medley of languages bounce off of the beautifully restored marketplace. Crowds of Madrileños and world citizens pulse through the wrought iron stands whittling away the hours with laughter and conversation. Home to small upscale shops by day, the market turns into one big tapas bar at night offering a wide range of delicacies from cured ham, to artisan cheese, olives, almonds, and melt in your mouth seafood tapas. Try the traditional sardine tapa with an unconventional curry sauce, a surprisingly divine combination. The Pinkelton & Wine bar has an excellent red, 2007 CLIO, the perfect way to sip the night away watching as the world passes by the glow of the Mercado.

Plaza de Oriente 3
Madrid
Tel +34 915 415 104‎

Bar Miguel Angel

Hidden within the entrance to an apartment building, is a white door that takes you down into a cellar filled with small wooden tables. This is Bar Miguel Angel, the secret tip of everyone in the barrio: breakfast joint in the morning, white table dining at lunch, after work hangout for young professionals on weekends. But those who really know stop in between 7pm and 9pm, when the mood is mellow and the tables in the alcove are still free. Following tradition every glass comes with a heaping plate of tapas to choose from. Cured ham on pisto with melted goat cheese, or the ubiquitous tortilla Espanola, the options change everyday but the flavor is consistent.

Calle de Miguel Ángel 6
Madrid

Jose Luis

An institution for over 50 years, Jose Luis has locations throughout Madrid, as well as in Sevilla and Barcelona. But the original is in the prestigious Calle Serrano in Madrid. A fashionable establishment of the 60’s, artists, writers, and professionals were drawn by the ambient and the large variety of tapas. Today’s crowd is a mix of decades of regulars, enjoying drinks at the bar or the daily menu. Try to get a seat at one of the two tables in the bar area to enjoy a casual meal among friends with all the pomp that Jose Luis has retained over the years. The counter offers a broad range of traditional tapas to choose from, be sure to savor a variety to see what makes the Madrileños come back day after day, year for year.

Calle de Serrano 89
Madrid
Tel +34 915 616 413‎

Lateral

The answer to many Madrileños search for modern, sleek, tapas at a good price, Lateral has several strategic locations throughout Madrid. Take a break from shopping your way down Calle Fuencarral with a medley of tapas at Lateral.  But make sure to plan in some waiting time as the young and the fashionable flock here in droves for light dishes with a blast of flavor. Try the rolls of salmon filled with cream cheese and caramelized apples, a warm salad of grilled eggplant, caramelized onions, and goat cheese, or roasted pimientos de pardon with olive oil and sea salt-an emblematic tapa throughout Spain.

C/ Fuencarral, 43
Madrid
Tel +34 91 531 68 77

Spanish “jamón” is known all over the world, and Spain´s seafood is legendary. There is no question that Spain is one of the most fascinating culinary destinations in the world. But often vegetarians worry if Spain also offers enough non meat/fish options for them to have enough interesting and tasty options while touring. The answer is: you have to look for them and do your research, but yes, yes, yes!

Some sample veggie dishes you can find in Spain, particularly in the Atlantic and Mediterranean north include:

* Sautéed Boletus mushrooms

* Mushrooms (champiñones) served “al ajillo” (panfried with olive oil and loads of garlic)

* Marinated and often smoked spicy piquillo red peppers

* Risotto style “arroz” rice dishes featuring Idiazabal cheese (from Basque Country), or wild mushrooms or asparagus

* White asparagus from Tudela

* Pimientos de Padrón- delicious little green Galician peppers roast with sea salt and olive oil. 1 in 10 is seriously spicy!

* Marinated artichoke hearts from Navarre

* Lightly breaded and expertly fried eggplant (a Spanish recipe with Moorish origins)

* Endives with a Cabrales (blue cheese from Asturias) sauce

* Swiss chard in a delicate cheese sauce

* Caneloni stuffed with spinach (Catalan recipe)

*Escalivada- roast eggplant, peppers, onion, tomato dish with tons of olive oil and course salt. fabulous…

* Pisto Manchego- similar to Ratatouille. Warning: sometimes come with tuna, so do ask.

* Gazpacho- that quintessential summer dish is a healthy and delicious cold soup made of tomatoes, bread, garlic, and plenty of variations

* Ajoblanco- another great summer soup made of almonds, garlic, grapes

* Goat´s cheese salad with walnuts and apples (ensalada de cabra)

* Manchego cheese with pinenuts and honey

* all manor of scrambled eggs (”revuelto”) with asparagus, queso, setas (wild mushrooms), etc

* Catalan style spinach (”espinacas catalanas”), sautéed with raisins, pinenuts, breadcrumbs and onion

* Fruit brochettes (pineapple especially)

And of course tapas like marinated olives, pan fried almonds with chili (”guindilla”) and patatas bravas (potatoes with a spicy sauce).

Here is a terrific list of vegetarian restaurants in Spain

And info on Spain´s gastronomy and A-Z Food Glossary.

When ordering in restaurants, a word of advice is to tell the wait staff that you are medically and seriously “allergic” to meat/seafood as often bits of chorizo/jamón, even fish are thrown into veggie dishes without letting you know.

Happy travels!

We asked local Barcelona gourmet guru and professional travel writer Tara Stevens to recommend a fabulous eatery in Barcelona for our most special clients looking for a memorable lunch, and here is what Tara shared with us:

Fonda Gaig-

Thoroughly enjoyed this. Service was a delight, aside from the sour faced puss manning the till when we left. Señora Gaig was particularly welcoming. The place is vast, creamy decor with lovely plump, red, leather armchairs at each table laid with linen and Riedel glasses, so that you really feel inspired to sit back and get stuck in. Actually, my friend and I spent half of lunch snuggling deep into these fabulous creations declaring how wonderful it all was. Felt luxurious without being stuffy. There’s no music (piped or otherwise) and they’ve got excellent white sound so you’re not disturbed by other tables, but equally there’s a good sense of space here. Don’t feel crammed in at all. Overall atmosphere is really very laid back, the staff pleasant without being overly fussy (which I find perfect).

The food is very traditionally Catalan – canelones (superb), wood cock on the specials (ultra gamey, but definitely a winner for a lot of folks), a boring ensalada de huerta (but then, salad is salad and we needed something green), excellent plump, sweet scallops with friend artichoke quarters. Great bread, less good oils and vinegars, and a substantial though not wildly interesting wine list (if you look hard you’ll find some interesting boutique wineries like Baigorri, but generally pretty much what you’d expect) and interestingly enough the Catalan wines seem to have a higher price hike than those from Rioja or Ribera, say.

Our bill came in at €136, and I left a €10 which is a lot for lunch. However, we choose a mid-range wine €31.60 for a Marques de Vargas 2004, and the woodcock was pricey being a seasonal game bird. A quick gander at a couple of other bills on leaving told me that €100 for two was more standard.

All in all though, I left feeling I’d had a treat, largely because you feel so cosseted sitting there. Compare this to a few weeks ago when I ate at Fermí Puig’s Petit Comite, and felt ripped off by the time I’d finished. And they invited me. But really, who charges €13 for a potato?

Fonda Gaig to sum up-   it’s new, of the moment, a great destination for a long lunch or dinner, very relaxed, very Catalan and super comfortable. Best of all they’ll get to rub shoulders with genuine uptowners as opposed to destination diners.

This past week here in Madrid, the annual Madrid Fusión gastronomic event took place.  The mood was slightly different than in the last few years (boom years in Spain), with much talking and debating about “High end cuisine for the economic crisis” and brainstorming on how to flourish in tough financial times. Presentations on this theme included “Haute poor cuisine-  Imagination in crisis times by Paco Ron and Peter Nilsson”. However it certainly wasn´t all glum, and as always was an opportunity for top chefs from around the world to exchange ideas and to receive their kudos.

Some of the more interesting topics included “Natural Pantry of the Amazon Jungle: the last version of Peruvian cuisine” by Pedro Miguel Schiaffino (Peru, FYI, is a hot gastronomic destination this year and chef Pilar Latorre is leading an ultra luxury culinary tour there in the spring);  “Gastro Botanic Subtleties of the Desert Garden” by Rodrigo de la Calle and Santiago Orts, “The Chef Perfumist: Renaissance in the 21st Century” by Corrado Assenza; “Science and Cuisine Discussion: Does Molecular Cuisine Exist?” (THE hot topic!!!!) by  Ferran Adrià, Heston Blumenthal, Andoni Luis Aduriz, and Harold McGee; “The Mexican Avant-Garde: Conceptual Dishes with Roots” by Enrique Olvera; “Haute Creative Cuisine with Gorgonzola, Parmigiano Reggiano, and Provolone Valpadana” by Nacho Manzano, Jordi Vilà and Paco Roncero; “Plankton: Life’s Origin of the Sea, A New Dressing” by our beloved Ángel León;  “Color: Another Taste” by Elena Arzak; and “Jerez Vinegar in Haute Cuisine: An Acidity with Tradition” by Pepe Rodríguez Rey, Carles Abellan, and Kisko García.

A quick summary of some of the highlights from Madrid Fusión 2009:

TOP AWARDS FOR CHEFS- 11 CHEFS FROM ALL OVER THE GLOBE WERE SELECTED FOR THEIR CONTRIBUTION TO HAUTE CUISINE:

Gualtiero Marchesi- Italian

Ferran Adriá- Catalan (Spanish, inventor of molecular cuisine)

Juan Mari Arzak- Basque (Spanish)

Michel Bras- French

Heston Blumenthal- British

Alain Ducasse- French

Pierre Gagnaire- French

Pierre Hermé- French (called the Picasso of Patisserie)

Thomas Keller- American

Nobu Matsuhisa- Japanese

Charlie Trotter- American

AWARDS OF EXCELLENCE IN MADRID

Sponsor: Madrid Chamber of Commerce

Chef of the year: Paco Morales at Senzone restaurant in the stylish Hospes hotel in Madrid

Restaurant of the year: Casa José in the royal town of Aranjuez (chef Fernando del Cerro)

Maitre of the year: Eduardo Navarrina at the Madrid institution Dantxari

Sommelier of the year: Dani Poveda at star chef Sergi Arolo´s superb new Gastro restaurant in Madrid

Lifetime achievement award- Evaristo García of the 100 year old seafood restaurant Pescaderías Coruñesas

AWARD FOR BEST NEWCOMERS

Sponsor: C.R.D.O. JEREZ, MANZANILLA DE SANLÚCAR Y VINAGRE DE JEREZ (the Sherry consortium)

Finalists-

Restaurante Trigo (Valladolid. Victor Martín)

Restaurante Embat (Barcelona. Fidel Puig, Santi Rebés, Cristina Torrás)

R De La Calle (Aranjuez, Madrid. Rodrigo de la Calle)

Gastromium (Sevilla. Miguel Díaz, Ernesto Malasaña, José Carabias)

Narru (San Sebastian, Guipúzcoa. Iñigo Peña)

Gavara (Bocairent, Valencia. Silvia Gavara)

Alentejo, Portugal

The Alentejo is without a doubt one of our favorite wine regions in Europe. This unspoiled and breathtaking region features soft, rolling hills studded with cork trees and Moorish castles and is spotted with colonial style wine “quintas”. The scenery in Alentejo is reminiscent of the romantic savannas of “Out of Africa” and in winter, you can expect bright blue skies and invigorating cold weather. For a winter wine tasting break we suggest you use the Unesco heritage town of Évora as a base, visit a few wineries and enjoy some long leisurely wine lunches in cozy restaurants with open fireplaces.

Wineries to visit: Esporão, Monte Seis Reis, Herdade da Malhadinha are all favorites and can provide (paying) tours and tastings if you contact them beforehand to set up the appointments.

Alentejo winery consortium:Vinhos do Alentejo feature all kinds of wine region info on their website for self-drive trips (in Portuguese).

Where to stay: Our favorite hotel is definitely the romantic and luxurious Convento do Espinheiro, just outside Évora.

More Info on the Alentejo wine region

Luxury chauffeured wine weekends in Alentejo

Sherry Country, Spain

Jerez de la Frontera, the main wine town in the “Sherry lands” is a truly delightful little provincial capital. The benefit here is that the wineries are right in the historic center so you don´t need to drive and you can taste as many wines as you like! Most are in walking distance of each other through the pleasant center. Sherry wines are varied (finos, amontillados, palo cortados, and more) and quite strong, perfect on a sunny and cold winter´s day. The ideal winter wine weekend in Jerez would include winery tours, an excursion to beautiful Seville (one hour by train), and a lunch at La Mesa Redonda.

Wineries to visit: Sandeman (our favorite for private VIP tours), Pedro Domecq, Bodegas Tradición, Emilio Lustau, González Byass (Tio Pepe)

Sherry winery consortium: Consejo Regulador Denominacion De Origen Jerez Xerez Sherry

Where to stay: Our favorite hotel in Jerez is the Palacio de Garvey (which made it to our top ten wine hotels in Spain hotlist). The Villa Jerez is another refined little hotel, out of the center in a more residential neighborhood.

More Info on the Sherry wine region

Info on luxurious wine weekends in Seville and Jerez

Valtellina, Italy

The ultimate winter wine escape, Valtellina offers sunny blue skies, fluffy snowy mountains in winter and phenomenal red wines made with the Chiavennasca grape (cousin of Barolo´s Nebbiolo grape). The region is alpine, near the Swiss border and the perfect winter wine weekend could include winery visits and tastings, an excursion to pretty St Moritz (on the Swiss side) and an excursion by horse-drawn sled through the snow. The cuisine is FABULOUS, real mountain food and it perfectly accompanies the rich, velvety “Sforzato” wines.

Wineries to visit: None of the wineries have regular scheduled tours, so you will need to contact them individually to request a (paying) visit and tasting. We particularly love Nino Negri, Triacca, Rainoldi and Conti Sertoli Salis.

Valtellina winery consortium: Consorzio Vini Valtellini have information on the region, wineries and travel tips.

Where to stay: There are some wonderful spa hotels, perfect in winter. We love the Bagni di Bormio, a real destination hotel with wonderful soothing spa treatments and natural springs.

More Info on the Valtellina wine region

We organize luxurious chauffeured wine tasting weekends in Valtellina, more info here.

Early this summer we did an extensive road trip to check out wineries, restaurants and hotels in Spain’s northwestern region of Galicia, nestled just above Portugal on the Atlantic. Galicia is really unique in Spain and about as “un-Spanish” as you could imagine. The climate resembles Ireland or Scotland, the bagpipes are the main instrument used in the regional music and Celtic dolmens can be found here! The atmosphere is misty and mystical, just wonderful. We highly encourage you to visit this special and fairly undiscovered Spanish region.

Here are some of our notes from the trip, and some of our new suppliers…

We began our tour in gorgeous Santiago de Compostela (have always loved this charming medieval city with its ancient cathedral that attracts millions of pilgrims each year following the Saint James Way (called the Camino de Santiago). We revisited the striking Parador, located in a one of the oldest hotels in the world and where King Ferdinand and Queen Isabel stayed in the 15th century (!!), to do a follow up inspection. The Hostal dos Reis Catolicos has been used as a Royal hospital (for pilgrims) and an inn since the late 1400’s and today is a 5 star hotel. There is a new manager and a fresh breath of new life flowing through this historic hotel and despite the fact that the rooms are a bit dated, there is simply no better place to stay in Santiago de Compostela.

We received the grand tour of the property and were entertained by legends and anecdotes. One of the main event halls, for example, is where the old maternity ward of the ancient hospital was; one of the bedrooms was used for plague victims; one staircase is called suicide stairwell…this place is just oozing with atmosphere and history. It is THE place to stay while in Santiago.  On the other hand, we didn’t like the location or decor at the other five star hotel in Santiago, AC Palacio del Carmen, and it lacked character. Another hotel we did love love love, however, was the Parador Monasterio de Santo Estevo, read a review here on our Ten Best Wine Hotels in Spain post. It can be used as a base, as we did, for Ribeira Sacra, the most stunning and pristine wine region in Galicia.

STAR WINERIES: we visited many estates in Rias Baixas, Ribeira Sacra and Ribeiro and tasted an array of Albariño, Loureira, Godello, and Treixadura based zippy white wines and a few Mencia based reds (Mencia is the grape used in neighboring Bierzo, one of Spain’s most stylish red wine regions). The climate in Galicia´s wine country is starkly different to other regions in Spain. Here in Galicia, you are right on the Atlantic. The cool and wet misty climate directly affects the viticulture and most of the vines are on pergolas to avoid the moist earth. Wineries range in size, from large estates like the prestigious Martin Codax to ultra tiny cellars like the high-end Santiago Ruiz winery.

Here is a pick of some of our favorite estates, wines and personalities:

PAZO DE SEÑORÁNS, RIAS BAIXAS-

This elegant wine estate known for their Albariños is GORGEOUS. While the winery itself is small, new and nothing interesting, the estate itself is stunning. Lush trellised vines pan out in all directions, punctuated by manicured flowerbeds flowing over with pink, purple and blue “Hortensias” (hydrangeas), a beautiful flower so commonly seen around Galicia. The property features a 17th century Pazo (manor house) and a spectacular Hórreo (a traditional granary you find in Green Spain) as well as a historic chapel (that up until this year has still been functioning and many couples have come to be married here at the winery). The owner, Señora Marisol Bueno is one of the most famous personalities in the Rias Baixas appellation and has long been a pioneering force for quality in the region. Their Selección de Añada (specially selected vintage wine), only made in superb years made with 100% old vine Albariño and uniquely aged on its lees for over 2 years before release, is the best wine we tasted on our research trip and one of the best great white wines of Spain at the moment. Marisol´s friendly and knowledgeable daughter gave us the tour, and this estate is absolutely equipped to welcome our VIP clients

More info on Pazo de Señoráns

AGRO DE BAZÁN, RIAS BAIXAS-

This dynamic and lovely winery (founded in the 80´s) are well known for their Granbazán Albariño and their rich dry red wines made in the sister estate Mas de Bazán in the Utiel-Requena appellation in the southeast of Spain. Located in Vilanova de Arousa, the area changes evrey few minutes from industrial parks to picture perfect forest, from pockets of both lovely and built up coastline. Once you arrive to the estate, however, you forget all about its surroundings. The vineyards are beautiful and the traditional manor style house seems somehow funkier with the motorbike parked right out front. Agro de Bazán boasts a young, international and enthusiastic team making excellent Albariño wines that respect tradition.  Fabulous place and fabulous people, completely professional and ready to welcome you to their estate.

More info on Agro de Bazan

PALACIO DE FEFIŇANES, RIAS BAIXAS-

We didn´t actually have a good visit here as the woman who was supposed to receive us did not show up for our appointment, a bad start ! But we were soon won over by the wine itself and the beauty of their very own wine castle and tiny, historic cellar. It is located in the prettiest part of the historic town of Cambados (also referred to as the Albariño capital, and a great place to buy wine as there are various wine shops with an extensive selection of local wines you won´t be able to find at home). The square is named after the palace and stand gracefully across the street from the attractive stone church. Palacio de Fefiñanes is the oldest winery (callled “Adega” in the Galician language) in the Rias Baixas appellation, founded in 1904. The estate features a 17th century palace cum castle and a very small vineyard. They make one wine only, with its own grapes as well as other grapes bought in from small local viticultors. As the winery flaked on us for our inspection visit, we won´t be including them in our tours but we do believe it is worth a visit If you find yourself in the area, so if you will be near Cambados, just have your hotel call ahead of time to see if anyone will be able to receive you.

More info on Palacio de Fefiñanes

PAZO CASANOVA, RIBEIRO-

What a gem!!!!!!!!!!!! Loved the estate (actually there are two estates, both with ancient pazo houses and lush vineyards). We stomped in the vines with the charismatic owner, Carlos de la Peña. Read a full review of the estate here in our autumn newsletter as we selected their Casanova wine as our recommended wine of the season.

More info on Pazo Casanova

ADEGA ALGUEIRA, RIBEIRA SACRA

Another darling little spec of a winery with a passionate and charming owner (Fernando González) is Adega Algueira, located in an ancient stone house near the majestic terraced wine valley of the Ribeira Sacra (translated as sacred hillside). While over 15 grape varietals are allowed in the appellation, the main red grape used is Mencia (and important to note that this region, along with Valdeorras, is where Galicia´s red wines are made).  Apart from wine grape production, Ribeira Sacra is also a natural park and home to much wildlife such as Peregrine Falcons, Golden Eagles, wild boar and badgers. So, how surprised were we to find out that this tiny winery, in a practically unknown hidden corner of Galicia, got 95 Parker points this year for their aged mencia?!! We tasted Fernando´s wines at lunch on his rustic terrace overlooking the grounds, sublime! Again- amazing people, amazing wines, true and bonified wine discovery gem. Fernando and his wife have lovely ideas for wine harvest experiences on the dizzyingly steep and beautiful vineyard terraces overlooking the Rio Miño and Rio Sil, and we will be creating some excellent trips here.

More info on Adega Algueira

BEST OF WHAT WE SAW:  the Parador Santo Estevo;  Santiago de Compostela, with its romantic ambiance in the quaint old town at night and many excellent restaurants like the Michelin starred Toñi Vicente and the whimsical Casa Marcelo; the above mentioned wines and estates; the Northeastern Galician coast (unspoiled and dramatic).

WHAT TO AVOID: Virtually the entire coast south of Santiago de Compostela, barring some lovely coves and the picturesque town of Baiona, is given over to mass development and sloppy building. The cities of Pontevedra and Ourense were not nice, you can definitely skip them. Southern Galicia in general is quite densely populated. The regions of Ribeiro (especially Pazo Casanova!!) and Rias Baixas are definitely worth touring, but don’t expect pristine wine country as there is a bit of industry and half built houses (the building boom has gone bust). Ribeira Sacra on the other hand is in a protected park and is ABSOLUTELY breathtaking, resembling Portugal´s Douro Valley.

As you enter the Artkuisine Restaurant run by the gracious Fanny Fiolleau & the talented young chef Rémy Lefebvre, you immediately get a feeling of both warmth and elegance in the lavishly painted white dining room, surrounded by the artwork of whimsical catalan artist ,  Mercedes Rogla. This wonderful impression continues with the hospitality and creative details of the dishes. Aside from the a la carte menu, guests have a choice between several tasting menus or from the chef’s own personal selection of the day. I selected the 4 course tasting menu, which did not disappoint.

Following some tasty “amuse-bouches”, the first course was the curious combination of sardines marinated with mustard, and accompanied by shallots, quince and guacamole! Contrary to what you may think , this dish was delicious with just the right blend of each ingredient. The second course was a refreshing and visually delightful calamari salad with a light Caesar dressing, bacon, lemon and edible flowers. It was almost a shame to eat this beauty!

The third course was a seafood medley of twice cooked “scorpion” fish with rice from the delta, and accompanied by fried baby squid and cuttlefish. Great care was taken in the combining these three to just the right degree of perfection. The final dish, the dessert, was a lovely Bordeaux cinnamon tart topped with a green apple liqueur  and accompanied by scoop of homemade almond ice cream. A perfect end to an exceptional meal.

Restaurante artkuisine
C/ Madrazo, 137 – 08021 Barcelona
T. 93 202 31 46
www.artkuisine.blogspot.com
www.mercedesrogla.com

The Spanish southwestern region of Extremadura is one of our most cherished, and we love going back often to enjoy the historic villages, breathtaking Jerte Valley (famous for its Cherry Blossoms) and for eating well. This region is off the beaten tracks for many foreigners and is refreshingly free of the tourist crowds. There are some truly fantastic small historic towns, our favorites being Trujillo and Cáceres. Extremadura produces a wide range of gourmet products from cheeses (Torta del Casar, Queso Ibores, Queso de la Serena, etc) to smoked paprika (Pimentón) to the famed Jerte cherries and yes, even wines (the up and coming appellation is Ribera del Guadiana).

Pimentón-This essential ingredient in any Spanish kitchen, paprika, is made with smoked peppers and can be dulce (sweet) or picante (spicy). The texture is like a velvety powder and the color is blood red. It is used in a variety of stews, can be used to spice up chorizo, is a delicious addition to soupy potatoes (like patatas a la riojana) and of course is doused in many local recipes in Extremadura like the Caldereta de Extremadura (slow cooked and stewed lamb). Pimentón is produced in a variety of villages such as Jarandilla de la Vera (with its beautiful Parador). Here is a list of Pimentón de la Vera producers.

Torta del Casar- This heavenly cheese is made with organic sheep´s milk and is one of the most tantalizing gourmet goodies in the WORLD. The cheese is circular and the inside is soft, semi liquid and has an almost melted texture. It is usually served with crackers or bread, and can be topped with caramelized onions, chutney or relish or as a sauce on solomillo steak. Production of Torta del Casar in Extremadura is thankfully still on a small and artisan basis and the quality is ultra high.

WHAT TO DO IN EXTREMADURA- The beautiful towns of Trujillo and Cáceres are a must and would be the best bases. The town of Merida is not particularly nice at all, but the Roman theater and Archaeological museum are fantastic for history buffs.

WHEN TO GO- Trujillo holds the big cheese festival- Feria Nacional del Queso- in early May, fun for gourmets. Spring is the best time to see the spectacular cherry blossoms in the Jerte Valley. Check out the Theatre Festival at the outdoor Ancient Roman amphitheater of Merida from June to August Autumn and winter are romantic in the historic castle towns, with cozy restaurants, chilly nights and bright sunny days.

WHERE TO STAY- We love the beautiful recently restored palace in Trujillo NH Palacio de Santa Marta, an absolutely stylish gem in a dramatic historic setting. In the countryside of southern Extremadura, the luxury Rocamador is a destination hotel that attracts an eclectic mix of Spanish celebrities, socialites and artists.

WHERE TO EAT- For atmosphere (medieval tower) and great food, the Torre de Sande in Caceres is a must. Also in Caceres the Atrio restaurant, located in a weird modern part of this medieval city, won the best wine list in Spain by Wine Spectator. While we had a mixed experience regarding wine service due to an inexperienced and unfortunately rude waiter, the food is really amazing and the owners are very attentive and come out to greet clients after the dinner. The restaurant in Monasterio Rocamador is highly recommended, as is Altair in Merida.

Asturias is one of the least explored and most beautiful regions in Spain.  Located in the glorious north on the Costa Verde (Green Coast), Asturias is situated to the east of Galicia and west of Cantabria and Basque Country. This is about as different a Spain as you could imagine.  Far from flamenco, paella, sherry and bull fighting, Asturias is a lush and misty region that quite resembles Ireland. The rugged coast is achingly beautiful, punctuated with coves and cliffs between its charming and colorful fishing villages such as Tazones, Cudillero, Luarca, and Llanes.  The bagpipes are regularly practiced by college students in the region´s city squares.  And whereas olive oil is de rigeur throughout the rest of Spain, butter is the norm here (you will see cows everywhere!).  Asturias is a treasure trove for artisan cheeses.   The Picos de Europa mountains, straddling Asturias and Cantabria, are a magnificent area to discover some of Spain´s best scenery and hiking. Not to mention fabulous country cuisine like heavenly fabada, a butter bean slow-cooked stew.  Asturias is also home to some of the most captivating pre-Romanesque churches in Europe such as the sublime Santa Maria del Naranco. While in Asturias, there are two things you cannot miss under any circumstances- cabrales and cider!

Cabrales is a delicious blue cow´s milk based cheese (blended with goat and sheep milk), similar in production to Roquefort, and made in Asturias.  Cabrales is considered to be one of the best blue cheeses in the world, alongside Gorgonzola and the aforementioned Roquefort. The artisan producers are governed by the Consejo Regulador board, established in 1981 with the appellation as a quality control. The cheeses are matured in caves with an approximate humidity of 90% and natural ventilation aided by the “soplaos” (currents of air that naturally circulate the cuevas, translates as “breaths”).  This cheese pairs magically with late harvest wines, Muscats/ Moscatos and sweeties like PX  (Pedro Ximenez sherry). Another common way of using it is in sauces to top savory steaks (like chuletón).  You can visit a cheese cave as part of a gourmet walking tour in the hills in Arenas del Cabrales (we set this up for guests). In this same village, located right in the Picos de Europa Mountains, the Cabrales Cheese Fiesta and Competition, called the Feria del Cabrales”, takes place on the last Sunday in August (so this summer it falls on August 31). You´ll be able to see the ancient cheese-making process, check out folkloric  tournaments, and parades, and of course enjoy tastings of Cabrales.

Great cheese/gourmet shops in Asturias- La Casa del Quesu in Cabrales and the outstanding La Barata in Cangas de Onis, a charming town located on the Rio Sella that is a hub for mountain hikers.

Cider, called Sidra in Spanish, is produced all over the north. In Asturias the main centers of production and apple orchards are around the towns of Nava and Villaviciosa, and also close to the city of Gijòn. After pressing the apples, they ferment naturally and then mature for about 5 months until bottling.  The alcohol content varies but is usually about 5-6 %, similar to some beers. “Sidra” is also effervescent due to the natural yeasts present, but except for a few cases of cheap cider imitations, Spanish cider is not carbonated. .  Cider bars in Asturias are called  a “Chigre”, whereas in the rest of Spain they are called a “Sidreria”. The cider houses where this delicious drink is produced are called “llagars” and a few of them can be visited. The funnest part of cider tasting in Asturias is being served your drink. A trained “escanciador”, or cider server, takes the bottle with the right hand and lifts the arm above the head. With  a straight back and a serious expression on the face, the escanciador pours the cider from about 2 feet up in the air into the special glass, without missing and hitting the floor (which is what will happen when you try to do this!). The objective is to “break” the cider in the glass, giving it a quick injection of air bubbles, and you should drink the cider immediately after pouring. Good brands of Sidra include Gaitero and Fanjul.

There is a Cider Museum in Nava, and this is where the cider festival is held (see web in Spanish) every year in July.

WHAT TO DO AND SEE- The coastal villages of Llanes and Cudillero are a must.  There are countless, splendid beaches along the Asturian coastline, including Playa de La Ballota, Playa de la Vega, Playa de Rodiles, and the la Playa del Silencio. Oviedo, the cultural capital, is a delightful small city whose biggest fan is Woody Allen. The pleasant seaside city of Gijón holds an annual international film festival. While quite touristy, history buffs should head to Covadonga, nicknamed “Cradle of the Reconquest”. 2008 is also a jubilee holy year for the Sanctuary of Covadonga and thousands of Catholic pilgrims will be visiting this year.  Of course for nature lovers and hikers,  Asturias is a natural paradise.

WHERE TO STAY- Asturias has many quaint hotels and some of our favorite little boutique gems for special stays in Asturias include: The “El Habana” in Llanes,  “Casona de la Paca” in Cudillero, “El Babu” in Caravia and the newly inaugurated beautiful 5* Palacio de Luces near the pretty fishing village of Lastres.

WHERE TO EAT- for hearty country cooking, it´s impossible to get a bad fabada in Asturias. For more refined meals, check out the gourmet hub of Arriondas at Casa Marcial and El Corral del Indianu. A few miles from Oviedo you have L´Alezna with star chef Pedro Martino and Casa Gerardo in Prendes near Gijón is great for high end dining. In case you haven´t heard of the gregarious Asturian celebrity TV chef and restaurateur (in the USA) José Andrés, check out his great website, full of interesting info on him, on Spain, on cuisine, Asturias and much more.

INTERESTING- Read about Asturian migration to the USA

Puxa Asturies, Viva Asturias!