It is hard to believe that until recently these two wonderful and increasingly popular white varieties – Godello and Albariño, grown in Galicia in north-west Spain – have languished in obscurity.  Of course, local growers and Spanish connoisseurs championed their virtues for decades, but it is only over the past 10 years or so that wine lovers across the globe have been able to enjoy these aromatic, delicious and refreshing wines. And with exports rising, it looks like a new generation of wine drinkers are going to fall in love with Spain’s answer to the Kiwi Sauvignon Blanc craze.

The origin of the Albariño and Godello grapes is still disputed, although German oenologists and supporters like Miguel Torres claim that Albariño was taken from the Rhine and Mosel vineyards by German Monks in the 12th century. This would seem to make sense, as the name Albariño means “The Rhine white.” Its home is the Rias Baixas region in western Galicia, which is divided into 5 sub-zones: Val do Salnes, O Rosal, Condado do Tea, Soutomaior and Ribera do Ulla. Godello is found to the west of the town of Ourense in the Ribeiro and Valdeorras regions. The best results arguably come from the Valdeorras D.O (appellation) which was re-planted with Godello in the 1970s.

The above comparisons between Albariño and Godello with that much-loved variety, Sauvignon Blanc, are reasonably accurate, for all three varieties can produce aromatic, charming wines with varying depths of fruitiness. Like Kiwi Sauvignon Blanc, most of their class and fruitiness is developed while the wines are still young, although experiments are increasingly been undertaken with barrel and lees aging. But generally, an old Albariño will taste flat and monotone, although Godello can age successfully for several years.

However, the flavor profile of Albariño is perhaps closer to Riesling, while Godello usually has good acidity, soft fruit and a spicy bouquet. Its structure is not dissimilar to Chardonnay, meaning that the winemaker has some license to coax out what flavors or aromas he sees fit.  Both of these grapes deserve pairing with the finest seafood and light fish dishes – they are divine with scallops or sea bass!

As you might expect, quality does vary but the best producers can always be relied upon to craft excellent wines of real class and distinction.

The following are our favorite 10 Godellos and Albariños. ¡ Salud!

Godellos:

1. 2011 Louro do Bolo Godello

One of the undisputed Kings of Godello production, winemaker Rafael Palacios has crafted a Godello to rival the finest white wines of the world. Vinified and matured in oak foudre from Normandy, this example from the Valdeorras region shows great complexity, elegance and finesse. Expect tropical fruit, a smooth texture and a smoky finish!

2. 2011 Valdesil Godello

A beautifully balanced and clean Godello from the Valdesil winery, showing lovely citrus and pineapple fruit, underpinned by that dependable Godello freshness and acidity. Light, elegant and moreish – what more could you ask from a white wine? Try it with squid or mussels.

3. 2011 Peña das Donas, Almalarga Godello

This small, family owned estate is today producing some of the best Godello from the Ribeira Sacra region in Galicia. Owner/winemaker Antonio Lombardía takes meticulous care of his vineyards, crafting an un-oaked but weighty Godello that displays peach fruit and almond characteristics – Smooth, aromatic and delicious.

4. 2011 Bodegas Godeval Viña Godeval Blanco

An energetic, crisp, pungent Godello from the respected Godeval estate in Valdeorras. The 2011 vintage displays complex notes of citrus, grapefruit, lanolin and spicy herbal notes – a vibrant wine with a strong mineral finish. A brilliant accompaniment for salmon or Asian cuisine.

5. 2011 Telmo Rodriguez, Gaba do Xil Godello

Telmo Rodriguez is one of Spain’s superstars, making superlative wines in many of the country’s best wine regions. His recent foray into Godello production is already giving spectacular results: the 2011 is a serious, fleshy wine of real depth and complexity. Expect floral, pear, citrus and lemongrass notes.

Albariños:

6. 2011 Santiago Ruiz Albariño

Galicia’s long established Albariño pro – the so called father of Albariño -  Santiago Ruiz releases year after year excellent and great value Albariños from its superior vineyards in the Rias Baixas zone. The 2011 is another great example: floral aromas are complimented by wonderful citrus, apple and pear flavours on the palate – Delicious with Shellfish.

7. 2011 Adegas Galegas Veigadares Albariño

Undoubtedly one of the finest estate today in Galicia, Adegas Galegas was established relatively recently in 1995 and continues to produce top class wines. The 2011 is aromatically complex, balance and refined, with powerful green fruit and mineral flavors.

8. 2011 Bodegas Fillaboa Albariño

Fillabao was established in Galicia many decades ago, and is today a consistently impressive producer of pungent, crowd pleasing Albariño from their 70 hectares of vineyards. Even in weaker vintages these wines are a dependable buy, displaying classic pineapple, apple and citrus notes.

9. 2011 Martin Codax Albariño

A widely awarded family business producing excellent quality wines at affordable prices. Much investment has been put into the bodega and it shows – the wines have been getting steadily more impressive over the last 10 years. Their 2011 Albariño is a bright, fresh, modern example from the region, offering intense aromas of grapefruit, citrus and rose petal. An all time classic.

10. 2011 Zarate Tras da Viña Albariño

A family firm dating back to the 1920s, Zarate make a range of Albariños including the thoroughly modern and stylish Tras da Vina that is subject to over 25 months lees ageing, a practice which is becoming increasingly fashionable. An unusually rich and complex Albariño, with yeasty notes and a creamy texture that complements the classic citrus fruit.

Although Portugal’s most famous contribution to food and drink is undoubtedly Port wine, its superb range of artisan cheeses, with their lengthy pedigree and traditions are equally a worthy addition to any gourmet’s household. And while most visitors to this beautiful and historic country may well only bring home a bottle or two of Port, or possibly a table wine from the famed Alentejo region, they would do well to perhaps remember the delicious cheeses from the Serra de Estrela Mountains or the pungent Serpa cheese from southern Portugal. Indeed, although countries like France and Italy have a stronger association with high-quality cheese production, you would do well to explore what Portugal can offer you. It may have some nice surprises in store.

Portugal, like most Western European countries has a long and (very!) proud tradition of cheese making that has not evolved significantly over the centuries. The equipment and technology may have been modernized in some parts of the country, but the care and craftsmanship has remained the same. Today, there are broadly 15 distinct styles of Portuguese cheese, with the vast majority protected under appellation law. The appellation designation (Denominação de Origem Protegida) strictly regulates the production methods, the length of aging, origin of production and labeling. That said it would be a mistake to discard other regional cheeses that may not have an appellation certification, but can be just as delicious and often offer better value! However, the cheese that visitors are initially most likely to encounter is the Queijo Flamengo, a direct copy of the famous Dutch Edam and ubiquitous in supermarkets and cafes across Portugal. It’s filling and cheap but has little to recommend in high-end culinary terms.

But in contrast, the celebrated soft cheeses from the Serra de Estrela Mountains in the Beiras region are considered amongst the finest in Portugal. It is usually made from the sheep’s milk of two native species indigenous to the area, although it can be produced from sheep’s and goat’s milk outside the appellation framework. Its taste is unsurpassed, smooth, rich and creamy with a beautifully balanced flavor. It is not dissimilar to Brie in its texture and pungency. Another favorite is the DOP Azeitão, from the Estremadura region in western Portugal. It can only be produced from raw sheep’s milk in the aforementioned town of Azeitao, although good examples again outside the DOP are made in the neighboring towns of Setubal and Palmela. The smooth, creamy cheese is made using thistle flowers, rather than sheep stomach lining to coagulate the milk and has an intense, earthy flavor and pungent aroma. Not a cheese for the faint-hearted!

Southern Portugal is also a good place to go hunting for excellent, regional cheeses. Perhaps start with a hard cheese from the city of Evora, the Alentejo regions’ most beautiful and charming town. Evora cheeses are made from un-pasteurised sheep’s milk and have a wonderful salty flavor. Or try the excellent Nisa Cheese from the higher regions of Alentejo. A similar hard cheese, however, Nisa has a less intense earthier flavour than Evora, with notes of herb and vegetable. Another extremely popular cheese is the celebrated Serpa from southern Alentejo. Again this is produced from sheep’s milk and is subject to at least two years aging in cool Alentejo cellars. The consistency can vary greatly and the rind is seasoned with paprika and olive oil, this results in the cheese having a strong spicy taste and aroma.  It has been recognized by food critics worldwide as one of the finest and unique European cheeses; the Slow Food Movement regularly list it as one of their top ten cheeses in the world.

Moving into northern Portugal we encounter the fabulous soft Terrincho Cheese from the Tras-os-Montes region that bounders Galicia in Spain. It can only be produced from a breed of sheep native to the area; the Churra da Terra Quente gives the cheese a mild, easily palatable flavour, enhanced by paprika and the curing process, which uses rye. The DOP cheeses of Bragança and Vila Real are also justly celebrated; under the appellation guidelines the Cabra Transmontano cheese must come from a special breed of goat – Serrana Negra – and be matured for a minimum of 60 days. The resulting product is fantastic, a hard cheese with a precise, slightly spicy bouquet and piquant taste.

You will also want to look out for the (a nightmare to pronounce but delicious to taste!) – Amarelo da Beira Baixa and the Rabacal cheeses from the Beira region. Amarelo is produced from raw sheep and goat’s milk; the aging process can last up to 90 days or longer. The cheese is extremely smooth and creamy, with a pungent aroma married to a silky texture, the saltiness just taking the edge off the creaminess. A cheese perfect for the after-dinner course that deserves a powerful white wine. Rabacal is a semi hard cheese that can either be made exclusively from sheep’s milk or a mixture of sheep’s and goat’s milk, and must be matured for a minimum period of 20 days.

At this point you may think that mainland Portugal has the monopoly on fine cheese production but this is not so: the unspoiled, idyllic volcanic islands of the Azores in the North Atlantic are home to two DOP cheeses. Both are named after their respective islands – Pico and São Jorge – and are excellent cheeses to rival the best from the mainland. Pico, a delicious soft cheese with a strong aroma can be made from cows’ milk or a mixture of cows’ and goat’s, whilst the hard São Jorge cheese must be 100% cows’ milk and is aged for a minimum of 30 days. It is still one of Portugal’s largest and finest cheeses, with an intense fiery flavor, crumbly texture and fine aroma.

Of course the above is merely a snapshot of the most important DOP Cheeses and you can find many more exciting examples that are exempt from the DOP framework. Take Vila Velha for example, which is made in the Beiras region. It is a similar cheese to Amarelo da Beira Baixa, but because it does not have DOP protection it is significantly cheaper and more accessible but every bit as delicious. But whatever your preferences, be it hard and pungent or soft and velvety cheese, you are bound to find something you love in Portugal’s rich traditions of cheese making.

Below are some important Portuguese cheese terms to remember when purchasing:

Cabra: goat

Curado: Aged

Duro: Hard

Leite: Milk

Ovelha: Sheep

Queijo: Cheese

Vaca: Cow

Portuguese food and wine terms

Food and wine lovers tours of Portugal

Buying Portuguese cheeses

The ideal place to buy Portuguese cheese is naturally the country itself, where the best selection and value can be found. However, most major supermarkets, specialist delis and food retailers will stock at least some Portuguese cheeses across Europe and the US, in addition the following online retailers are worth a look:  Alive Taste, Artisanal Cheese, Atlantico, IGourmet

2. For Shakespeare romantics, a plush room in gorgeous Verona facing Juliet’s balcony is all you’ve ever asked for…

3. For astronomers and star crossed lovers,  the cabriolet suite in the lovely Franciacorta winemaking countryside is a dream

4. Want to cross paths with movie stars and rock stars, but avoid the paparazzi – we suggest an off the beaten track location like Basilicata where Francis Ford Coppola has opened a fab little palazzo hotel…

5. If Classic is your style, then Venice is your destination and a terrace on the Grand Canal is THE luxury touch to make the experience special and memory making…

6. For the lucky ones who have already found their prince charming, stay in a real castle in Tuscany!

7. For  lovers of the Dolce Vita,  the jet set atmosphere in Capri with its amazing food and nightlife extravaganza calls…

8. … and finally, for those who are down to earth, but still dreamers  at heart, a private candelit dinner overlooking the sea, in stunning Taormina, Sicily is our suggestion…

Let us plan the romantic vacation of a lifetime for you, drop us a line!

There has never been a better time to enjoy the selection of interesting wines from all over the world, as now. Forty years ago, your selection was limited to perhaps red and white wines from Burgundy, famous Bordeaux names, the Rhine, and a few bottles from Rioja and Tuscany if you went to specialised merchants. Today, there have never been as many choices for the wine lover; more wines from more places, better wines and wines made from grape varieties that until recently, no one had ever heard of. Supermarkets now have Verdejo from Spain, Vermentino from Sardinia and even Chenin Blanc from India!

And the really exciting thing is that the wine exploration continues. We are beginning to discover Greek grapes, Sicilian wines and grape varieties native to Eastern Europe and Georgia. Indian and Thailand now have tiny, but growing wine industries and the quality keeps getting better.

So the good news is that you definitely don’t need to limit yourselves to Cabernet Sauvignon and the ubiquitous Sauvignon Blanc this New Year´s Eve. Much more interesting wines abound for the oenophile who’s sick of liming themselves to well-worn varietals and wines.

In that spirit, we have prepared a list of 10 wine suggestions for your New year’s Eve home entertaining that are (nearly) all a bit left field. And even the names you recognise may still have a surprise or two in store for you!

White

2011 Leitz Kabinett Riesling, Rheingau, Germany
German wine has enjoyed something of a renaissance in recent years, after having been derided for decades as mostly sweetened rubbish and terribly passé by the majority of us. But, German Riesling has arguably the potential to be the finest in the world, this fantastic example from the Leitz estate has wonderful aromas of citrus, peach and pepper, with a marvellous freshness and zest. One of the best Rieslings we have tried this year.

2011 Valenciso White Rioja, Spain

Rioja just means red, right? We used to believe so too, until we sampled this wonderful white Rioja from the acclaimed winery Valenciso this year. The wine is a blend of the native Viura and white Garnacha varieties (70/30) and unusually, it is barrel fermented in Russian oak for 9 months, a real oddity as most producers generally use French or American. It is, nonetheless, a beauty of a wine, offering toasty aromas, overladen with citrus, lemon and fig. Try it with Smoked Salmon!

2011 Casa Marin Gewürztraminer, San Antonio Valley, Chile

This small, family owned estate was one of the first to pioneer vine growing in the San Antonio Valley in Chile, a new and very fine costal wine region. All of their wines are superb, but what really stands out is the Gewürztraminer, an Alsace variety which produces wines that people either love or hate, there does not tend to be a middle ground. We, however, love its exotically perfumed floral aromas, this beautiful wine has it all: rose petal, spice, pepper and lychee. Perfect with Asian cuisine, for those who want to give the traditional Christmas lunch a miss.

2011 Laroche Chablis ‘La Collegiale’ France

Laroche, an extremely important Chablis grower and dynamic merchant has produced a Chablis that will silence the naysayers once and for all. It sets the standard for others to follow at a great price: a wonderfully concentrated, citrus infused Chardonnay with the classic Chablis minerality and a long, intense finish.  Those who hate their Chardonnay rich, creamy and buttery – this wine is for you.

2008 Clos de la Coulée de Serrant, Savennières, Loire, France

A legend, both for its wines and the estate’s controversial owner Nicolas Joly, a passionate advocate of biodynamic viticulture taken to the extremes. Located in one of the Loire’s oldest vineyards, Nicolas’s daughter Virginnie produces exquisite, long lasting Chenin Blanc wines in tiny quantities. The 2008 vintage displays complex notes of honey, apple, citrus and melon, a vibrant wine with a strong mineral finish. No where else in the world can you find Chenin Blanc of this quality or distinction -a perfect companion to Roast Goose.

Reds

2005 Marques de Riscal Baron de Chirel, Rioja, Spain

Rioja’s oldest winery (founded in 1858) today produces one of the region’s most distinctive and modern style wines – Baron de Chirel. Their ‘cuvee prestige’ is unique for its high percentage of Cabernet Sauvignon in the blend, most wineries are forbidden from using such a high amount by the appellation rules. The result is a totally distinctive Rioja – expect cassis, coffee, dark fruits and lashes of new oak, perfectly integrated. A very classy Rioja that deserves Roast Duck.

2007 Esporão Private Selection Alentejo red, Portugal
Undoubtedly one of the finest estates today in Portugal’s southern Alentejo Region, Esporao’s top wine is a blend of the native Aragones (Tempranillo) and Alicante Bouschet. It is the poster-child for modern style, Portuguese table wines, offering lush blackberry fruit on the nose and a rich, dense, and spicy palate of black fruits. Proof that Portugal doesn’t begin and end with Port!

2011 Viu Manent Gran Reserva Carmenere, Chile

Viu Manent was established in Chile by a Catalan family over 75 years ago, and is today a consistently impressive producer of excellent, often outstanding cool climate red and whites. Their Carmenere – a variety closely related to Merlot – is one of the best in the region, with its intense, gorgeous red berry fruit, spice and velvety texture – a great alternative to the Cabernet Sauvignons and Shiraz out there.

2007 Harlan Estate Red Bordeaux Blend, Napa Valley, California.

Harlan Estate have beaten the Bordeaux establishment at their own game, crafting a red of such class and intensity that rivals such famous names as Lafite and Latour. Indeed, the owner, Bill Harlan, set out to create a wine that would equal Bordeaux’s First Growths and it must be said that this is one of California’s great reds. The 2007 is an amiable monster, a wine of intense concentration and depth, with mocha, truffle, cassis, caramel and dark cherry. The palate is rich but in total harmony, the finish extraordinary long. A wine for that very special Christmas occasion!

2010 Contra Soarda Gaggion, Breganze, Italy

Contra Soarda is a new face in the Breganze appellation of North East Italy, having only entered into wine production in 1999. They make delectable wines, using both obscure native and international varieties. Their stand out wine though is the Gaggion, made from Marzemino Nero. After two years of barrel ageing in French oak, this delicious wine is ready to display its dark fruit, floral notes and just a hint of liquorice – Works very well with Roast Beef.
Happy new year to all our friends, valued suppliers and very special customers!

Indeed, the idea of pairing whiskey with food appalls some people, how can you possibly balance that much alcohol and intensity with food they cry? These fears are underpinned by a perception that only fine, red and white wines work with certain foods, cheese being a classic example and this is something we must accept as gastronomic law! In fact, the notion that cheese and red wine are a marriage in heaven is not born out by our experience – strong cheeses slaughter older red wines and only sweet or sharp white wines survive.

Another major obstacle to accepting whiskey as a viable match for some foods is tradition – Scotland, Ireland and the US as major whiskey producers have no established culture of drinking whiskey with a meal, or using whiskey in their signature dishes.

Yet, in recent years there have been commendable attempts to bring whiskey to the dining table, to the surprise of all involved whiskey can work wonderfully well with certain cheeses and other dishes. Grain can be a much better suitor to many foods than the grape, the fats in cheese react more comfortable with beer and whiskey, seafood is also a natural partner for peated whiskey.

The number of chefs, sommeliers and drinks enthusiasts starting to take whiskey seriously as a food pairing is heartening and we can expect great combinations to come. The key of course, like matching wine and food, is to carefully consider the ingredients and characteristics of the meal to choose an appropriate whiskey – desserts like Bread-and-butter pudding and cheesecake would be devastated by a strong, peaty whiskey such as Laphroaig.

The beauty of matching whiskey with food is that you have so many different flavors and styles to experiment with – Single Malts, blended whiskey and bourbon can offer vanilla, peat, tar, spice, leather, stewed fruit, honey, the list goes on.

So, when pairing whiskey with food, start with the principle that the body or strength of the whiskey shouldn’t over-power the strongest ingredient in the food.

You want balance between the competing flavors, i.e one doesn’t dominate and cancel out the other. Heavily spiced Indian food can therefore work beautifully with a sweet, intense Malt like Amrut. Japanese whiskey, which tend to be on the lighter side work with Sushi, try Yamazaki whiskey with Tuna.

Hard cheeses like Cheddar love a fruity, Speyside whiskey – try Glen Elgin for a real treat. Roquefort on the other hand seems to work well with peaty, powerful Single Malts like Lagavulin.

Seafood, especially oysters and smoked fish can also be matched quite comfortably with full-bodied, spicy whiskeys like a 12 year old Jameson reserve.

Some foods, however, work better with wine and delicate fish and meat dishes, or salads are best enjoyed unaccompanied by whiskey.

With these guidelines in mind, here are some tried and tested combinations sufficient to change anyone’s opinion. At the very least, in may broaden your mind!

Spicy, full-bodied whiskey – Bowmore, Laphroaig, Lagavulin. Certainly types of seafood are a marriage made in heaven with peaty, weighty whiskeys. Prawns, muscles and oysters suit a peaty whiskey like Bowmore, the saltiness is the perfect foil for the seaside, salty notes in the whiskey. Smoked chicken, teriyaki salmon and blue cheese also cry out for a robust Malt like Talisker.

Rich, fruity, Highland whiskey – Dalwhinnie, Glengoyne. These rich, intensely sweet whiskeys can taste like alcoholic bottled honey and they work extremely well with a range of desserts and sweets. Fruit cake in particular, cries out for a sweet, vanilla and honey Malt like Dalwhinnie. ginger biscuits, sticky toffee and bread and butter pudding also love a sweet Malt.

Light, aromatic, fruity whiskeys – Arran, Cragganmore, Jura, Glendiffich Fine, aromatic whiskeys like Aran and Glenfiddich can work surprisingly well with some Chinese or Japanese food, try pairing spring rolls, sushi or Peking duck with a fruity Speyside whiskey like Gragganmore. Softer cheeses also like lighter whiskies so experiment with goats cheese tart and cream cheese with an older Jura.

Our personal favorite combination is smoked salmon with Glenfiddich – stunning.

Interested in learning about Irish whiskey on a tasting tour? Check out our sample private whiskey tours program, with more whiskey experiences being added throughout the year, see here.  Sláinte!

Doolhof vineyard in Wellington

Wellington is also in the Western Cape’s wine lands, an hour and a bit from Cape Town, so easily accessible for that wine tasting day trip! The region is essentially a sub zone or ward of the Paarl wine district, and it just recently (last September) got its official appellation status (Wines of Origin Wellington).

Wellington vineyards with majestic mountains as backdrop

Wellington lies at the center of the wine lands, comfortably positioned on banks of the Kromme River and with the Hawequas Mountains flanking the town, it offers one of the most spectacular views in South Africa. North-east of the town of Paarl, Wellington broadly shares the same climatic conditions, with the hot Mediterranean like summers ripening red varieties such as Shiraz and Cabernet Sauvignon to perfection. The town itself has a long and fascinating history and today is a major academic center, with the Cape Peninsula University of Technology and the Bergriver Senior Secondary School based in the area. Wellington is known for being the vine grafting a vine nursery epicenter of South Africa.

Luxurious Grand Dedale country house on the Doolhof wine estate

We started our tour of the Wellington region with a luxurious and pampering say at Grand de Dale hotel on the Doolhof wine estate. Our charming host Angelo told us all about the foodie joys of Wellington from a nearby Buffalo mozzarella farm, to artisan honey and even local limoncello being made! There is a ton to do in this gorgeous part of the world, see 15 of Angelo´s suggestions here. Our next day began with a fantastic activity: a gently invigorating walk through the wine country hills with the darling owner tour guides of Wellington Wine Walk. Despite the early spring showers, we enjoyed a delightful walk in the hills, and they pointed out the Fynbos (“Fine bush” in Afrikaans, meaning local flora). We saw spectacular protea flowers, spectacular views along the Hawequa mountains, Bain´s Kloof pass and the Welvanpas vineyards, and the slopes blanketed in vineyards. After the rain set in, we stopped for coffee (instead of the usual wine tasting) and a fascinating chat about the history of Bain´s Kloof and Andrew Bain, the father of geology in South Africa. Truly fascinating stuff, check out the links.

Our enthusiastic and super friendly guides on the Wellington Wine Walk

The rain settled in and luckily we had another stop arranged for us at the Nabygelegen wine estate- major surprise and highlight of the trip to South Africa! A boutique estate dating back to the 18th century with historic cellars, this property does a micro production of about 100k bottles. Apart from wine, the property has found stone tools that have been dated to be over 1 million years old! Next to a roaring fire, we enjoyed a personalized tasting of his premier wines including the barrel fermented Chenin Blanc based Lady Anna 2012 (92 Parker Points), which was served at the Queen´s Jubilee celebrations in England this year. I loved his Snow Mountain range (easier for the English speakers to pronounce than Nabygelegen) and loved the Seventeen Twelve 2007 (4 1/2 stars Platter´s guide). For special clients, James gives intimate and relaxed cellar tours and tastings, this one is highly recommended ! James also showed us his beautiful onsite luxury guest cottage dating to the 1700´s, complete with 2 gorgeous bedrooms, professional kitchen and relaxing living area. On the list for my next trip over!

James McKenzie, passionate proprietor and cellar master of Nabygelegen

Luxurious little guest cottage on the Nabygelegen wine estate

A picnic lunch with estate wines had been organized for us at the British owned very charming Dunstone winery. Abbi Wallis took us through her range of wines over the delish spread, faves being the Dunstone Rosé and Dunstone Shiraz. Afterwards she showed us around the luxurious family orientated Bovlei Valley Retreat, their high end individual suites and villas, surrounded by vines, lavender and fruit orchards.

Delish spread at our (indoor) picnic at Dunstone. When the weather is nice (95% of the time) they do wonderful outdoor wine picnics, very charming

Bovlei Estate

Following a fantastic convivial lunch with fellow travel professionals and wine journalists, we moved on to the Val du Charron wine and olive resort, a hotel and winery complex offering terrific views over the Wellington countryside. Our hosts gave us a detailed technical tour of the winery and followed with an interesting food and wine pairing. Everyone was in great form and the day ended on a high note.

Views on a drizzling but beautiful afternoon from Val du Charron

This trip featured 3 wine regions- Stellenbosch, Paarl and Wellington, and what a wonderful contrast! This was the best way to enjoy the wine country with a range of winery styles (prestigious large estates to smaller boutique properties), a delightful mix of accommodations (from luxury chateaux to charming guesthouses amid vines) and last but not least, a mix of superb dining experiences. South Africa, I will be back!

Enjoy some of our photos:

Paarl winelands

Vines were first planted surrounding the town of Paarl in the 17th century by Dutch settlers, who found the rich, fertile soil and benign Mediterranean climate favorable. The region has long played an important role in South-Africa’s wine history, the former Cape Wine Association, known as KWV, was situated in Paarl before abandoning their remit and being privatized. They used to control the vast majority of the Cape’s wine industry, (they still make the vast majority of the country’s brandy) before the rise of the private investor and the number of Cape wine farms subsequently trebled. Paarl is home to a wide range of fine wine estates, great restaurants and dramatic scenery.

Glen Carlou Estate

We began our day at Glen Carlou where we were hosted by Georgie Prout, the knowledgeable and witty PR manager. She gave us a very nice private tour of the Hess Art Collection Museum, with its love it or hate it modern art collection. Unique it is. Then we met up with a group of wine and travel journalists from Germany and Holland and sat down to a superlative seven course food and wine pairing created for us by the winemaker Arco Laarman and chef Hennie van der Merwe.  Highlights of this gourmet extravaganza included the Duck terrine with truffle buttered brioche paired with their 2011 Pinot Noir, the Skilpadjies and beef cheek ravioli paired with their Grand Classique  and the Kudu (antelope) loin paired with 2008 Gravel Quarry Cabernet Sauvignon. The views form the table overlooking the mountains and vineyards was captivating.

Dining room at Glen Carlou

We could have stayed there all day but had people to meet and more wines to tasted, next up: Painted Wolf wines. Wow, this was an unexpected highlight of the entire trip! Created by Jeremy and Emily Borg in 2007, this garage wine company have a lovely story behind the lovely wines.  The African Painted Wolves are highly endangered hunting dogs, very few are left in the wild. The Borgs send funds from a portion of their proceeds to the research and conservation of this fascinating species. The successful social dynamics that these hunting dogs engage in were also an inspiration to the Borgs, and they structured their company with their own dog pack, comprised of passionate conservationists, grape growers, artists and friends. The result? Literally some of the best wines I have ever tasted!

Tasting the Painted Wolf wines with the Borgs in their home

They have a range of wines including “The Den” (easygoing young single varietal wines- Chenin Blanc, Sauvignon Blanc, Pinotage and Cabernet Sauvignon. Moving on up quality wise they have another range, my fave, called “The Black Pack”, again single varietal wines such as Chenin Blanc, Roussanne (to die for), Shiraz, Pinotage and Merlot. Another range is the striking “Cape Hunting Blends” with alluring African names such as Lekanyane (white blend) and Madach (red blend). Their icon wine is “Pictus” with only 5,000 bottles made and individually numbered bottles.

Do check out their Pedals 4 Paws initiative, and support it!

The Den range of wines from the Painted Wolf Wines estate

Supremely enjoyable visit with the charming Borgs and immensely enjoyed their wines. From their cozy house, we headed to the Rhebokskloof to taste some cheeses with their relaxed wines and have a digestive walk on the beautiful grounds, and then our final destination was the gorgeous, luxury Grand de Dale hotel where lord help us, a gourmet dinner awaited…

Darren and Glen, my wonderful travel companions

We began our South African wine journey in Stellenbosch, the most famous and one of the oldest of the wine regions. There are many contestants for the world’s most beautiful vineyard price, but Stellenbosch is undoubtedly 10 leaps ahead of the rest. Breathtaking mountains that seem to rise out of the ocean, tower over vivid green pastures dotted with the gleaming white facades of Cape Dutch colonial architecture. The region is, to put it mildly, one of the most attractive places to visit in the world – Stellenbosch’s wineries are more than geared up for visitors with their world-class restaurants, tasting rooms and hotels. However, that is not to suggest that the region merely exists for tourists. A great deal of South Africa’s high-quality wine production is centered on the Stellenbosch WO. Its new generation of young wine producers, who have travelled the world and soaked up the techniques and inspiration with unparalleled curiosity, are today producing some of the New World’s most exceptional wines  – world class Chardonnay, Chenin Blanc, Shiraz and Bordeaux Blends for starters. Let us also not forget Pinotage, the crossing of Cinsault and Pinot Noir that originated from South Africa in 1925 and has become the region’s trademark variety.

The Platter´s guide to wines- the bible of South African wineries

Cape Dutch Architecture in Stellenbosch

BEYERSKLOOF

We began with a visit to the home of “Mr. Pinotage”, Beyerskloof. just next door to Kanu (owned by Screaming Eagle). Beyers Truter´s dyanamic and friendly son Anri was our host. He spoiled us with a vertical tasting of their reserve Pinotages from 2005-2010. The stand out vintage was 2006, interestingly their first vintage using all their own grapes (not buying in grapes from other estates). The 2007 vintage was also excellent and was their first vintage using their outdoor lagars. Also enjoyed their Chenin Blanc and White Pinotage blend and their cult wines Faith Cape Blend 2008 (only 3,000 bottles made) and Diesel Piotage 2009 (named after their beloved, departed dog, 5,000 bottles made). The wine estate houses an attractive trendy restaurant, cozy lounge and on the rainy day we visited, had a fire roaring. Great start to the tour!

Beyerskloof wine cellar

Beyerskloof open air lagar

Beyerskloof Diesel Pinotage

HARTENBERG

Next up was an exclusive tasting at Hartenberg, a beautiful, historic estate that makes out of this world wines.  A tasting of the creme de la creme wines had been organized for us in their charming tasting room and this is where I first tasted barracuda Pâte, called “Snoek”. Made with matriarch Lady Eleanor´s top secret recipe, the dip was delicious paired with their Chardonnay 2008! This estate is known for its top quality picnic baskets that can be enjoyed on their lush estate with a number of walking trails.

House of Mandela, excellent limited edition wines made in cooperation with the Mandela family

Other stand out wines at this property included their Riesling which spends a year on its lees in tank and another year in bottle and is a dry, Austrian style Riseling; their limited edition House of Mandela Cabernet Sauvignon wine (made in cooperation with Nelson Mandela´s daughter and grandaughter); The Stork Shiraz (voted best Syrah of the world this year at the Syrah du Monde challenge), and the Gravel Hill Shiraz (one of the best wines on this trip). Apart from great wines, the hosts are charming, the barrel cellar is exquisite and the grounds are pristine, recommended!

Gravel Hill Shiraz- outstanding

Cozy tasting room

We had already had a fantastic morning and unbelievably faced another 2 wine estates : Simonsig and Jordan, contrasting properties that both have great restaurants. Following a terrific tasting with the charming winemaker Hannes Meyer of the range of their Cap Classique wines (rosé brut, the Kaapse Vonkel 2010 and the champagne quality Cuvée Royale 2007), young whites (the delightful Chenin Blanc, their Sauv Blanc and Gewurztraminer) and premium reds (Redhill Pinotage 2010, Tiara 2009 and Merindol Syrah 2010), we moved on to a light, perfect lunch.

Juicy oysters at Simonsig´s excellent Cuvée restaurant

The Cuvée restaurant here is highly recommended and of the wines, Darren and I concurred on our faves being their simply amazing good value Chenin Blanc and their cheering Rosé bubbly.  Simonsig are members of the Cap Classique association and are credited with making advances and improvements in the industry. True pioneers.

VIP tasting with winemaker Hannes Meyer

Our last wine tasting of the day was at the mythical Jordan, considered to be one of the top elite producers of South Africa.  We met friendly Gary Jordan and had an easy going tasting in their itty bitty tasting room. Stand out wines included the Nine Yards Chardonnay 2011, the sublime Cobblers Hill 2008 (Bordeaux blend) and also liked the Riseling. Their Chenin is so popular it was sold out. I am a Chenin Blanc convert!!

Had a quick look in their very highly regarded restaurant and put it on the list for our follow up site inspection next time.

Tasting at Jordan

Jordan´s Restaurant

Our day concluded with an overnight stay at trendy, little Majeka House, a boutique hotel outside of Stellenbosch, half French owned. Their sommelier is  engaging and fun and the food was excellent. I tried Springbok (little antelope) for the first time, took my breath away how succulent the meat was.

The pool at Majeka House

Majeka´s trendy bar

What a first day in the South African winelands!

Vindaba- First wine tourism fair in South Africa- a success!

It coincided with the annual, comprehensive Cape Wine Event and the fairs were located across the hall from each other. From London Heathrow we flew South Africa Airways to Johannesburg then caught another 2 hour flight to lovely Cape Town, where the event was taking place.

Cape Wine 2012

Our hosts swept us away for a fun packed wine tasting weekend in the regions of Stellenbosch, Paarl and Wellington. We then spent 3 days at the Vindaba event followed by more wine touring in Franschhoeck.

There was an eclectic and very interesting mix of wine journalists from around the world (Italy, Hong Kong, USA and India to name a few)  bloggers, travel specialists and luxury wine tour operators like ourselves attending, so we had plenty of networking opportunities.

Wonderful winemaker dinners were organized for us, special VIP tours and wine lunches and unique activities like a wine walk through the stunning hills of Wellington, a wine picnic and more.

Our charming hosts on the Wellington Wine Walk, a phenomenal initiative

Our captivating host Jeremy Borg, sharing his Painted Wolf wines with us. This was an absolute  fave estate, we can not stop raving about their wines and extra special animal conservation aspect

Unbelievable winemakers dinner at the beautiful Vineyard Hotel and Spa outside of Capetown, where a lucky few of us were wined and dined by the rockstars of the South African wine world- the owners/winemakers of Waterford, Warwick, Meerlust, Simonsig and Klein Constancia. Amazing food, wine and people!

In the Vindaba hall, apart from exhibitors, there were also various interesting wine tastings taking place with top wine estates shown by grape varietal and theme. I tasted lovely wines from Hermanus Bay, Elgin and other wine regions that I did not have the chance to visit in person on this trip.

We would like to warmly thank the organizers of Vindaba, Rufaro Destination Management, Winchester Mansions and South Africa Tourism for selecting us to attend this important and exclusive wine tourism event!

Check our blog for upcoming articles on the stellar and much recommended South African winelands!

And a special thanks as well to the exhibitors at Vindaba, it was a pleasure meeting you all>

Durbanville Wine Route
Kristall Kellerei
SAA
Robertson Wine Valley
Elgin Wine Valley
Hermanus Wine Route/Cape Whale Coast- Heaven on earth
Elgin Valley Tourism
Painted Wolf Wines- find these wines, visit them! Supreme favorite…
Paarl Tourism
Wines of South Africa
Paarl Wine Route
Cascade Manor
Wellington Tourism
Glen Carlou- a must for art lovers, gourmets and bon vivants
Wellington Wine Route
Rhebokskloof- fun place for picnics and their seasonal outdoor concerts
Swartland Wine & Matzikama
Grande Roche
Westcoast Tourism
Simonsvlei International
Klein Karoo Wine Route
Stellekaya
Spier- what a terrific lunch we had here, thank you for the special event!
Gourmet Travels
Stellenbosch
Wine Guides
Franschhoek Wine
Mhudi Guesthouse
Solms Delta- feel good initiative, read about it here
Plasir De Merle
Winelands District
Thokozani
KWV
Burgundy exchange programme
Laborie
Kingsriver Estate
Ubizo Events & Tours- a dynamic young owner, originally from a township, who organizes educational and meaningful tours of the townships…support him!
Cape Town Tourism
Great Wine Capitals

Terrific dining at the chic Winchester Mansions