Penedès Wine Region Guide

Winemaking and regional classifications

A tremendous amount of grape varieties are grown in Penedès. It is arguably one of Spain’s most progressive DOs, having long welcomed international styles like Chardonnay and Merlot – an anathema to other appellations and winemakers in the country. Founded in 1960, the DO covers red, white, and rosé wines that are difficult to pin down. It’s all here: light and unoaked Sauvignon Blanc, barrel-fermented Xarel-lo, Pomerol-like Merlot, and exceptional Cabernet Sauvignon from Torres’ Mas La Plana vineyard. The Torres family was one of the first to introduce modern equipment and French varieties to Catalunya in the mid-20th century. However, they are also committed to championing ancient Catalan grapes like the red-skinned Trepat. There is no ‘typical’ wine from Penedès, not least because attitudes and approaches to winemaking vary dramatically.

The same could be said of Cava; over 95 percent of Spain’s premier bubbly is made in Catalunya, mainly from the vineyards on a plateau surrounding Sant Sadurni d’Anoia. From one perspective, Cava is ‘Spanish Champagne’ – it uses the traditional method developed in northeastern France in the 18th century. Yet despite the encroachment of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, most growers use Spanish grapes – Macabeo, Xarel-lo, and Parellada – to make their sparkling wine. Thus, most Cava bears very little resemblance to Moet & Chandon and Krug: the fruit is riper, and the flavors have a spicier edge, with fennel and herbaceous notes much in evidence. But, like Champagne, there are many categories, including white, rosé, vintage, NV, and zero-dosage Cava. Single-vineyard bottlings are currently in vogue, too, sold as ‘Cava de Paraje Calificado.’ The DO introduced this new tier in 2016 to improve Cava’s reputation. So far, it appears to be working.

Yet there is plenty of competition in the vineyards of Penedès. In 2014, DO Penedès introduced a separate category known as Clàssic Penedès. The regulatory framework goes above and beyond Cava: wines must be aged for at least 15 months before release, and only organically grown fruit can be used. However, the newest member of this expanding club is Corpinnat, an appellation established in 2019 by ex-Cava winemakers Xavier Gramona, Ton Mata, and others. Their self-imposed rule book is among the most stringent in Spain, producing long-aged sparkling wines that can slay Champagne in blind tastings.

Geography and terroir

Situated west of Barcelona are the vineyards of Penedès, drenched in year-round Mediterranean sunshine. So one might expect a deluge of ripe, fruity wines for immediate consumption, which are easy to drink and forget. Yet the flavors and styles produced in this diverse region run the whole gamut, from aromatic sparkling wine to elegant Pinot Noir and voluptuous Merlot. This is made possible by the wonderfully varied topography of the zone; elevation and aspect are key determinants of wine style in Penedès. There are two mountain ranges and a valley in the middle of the appellation, with certain sites rising to over 750 meters above sea level. The net result is a plethora of mesoclimates and soil types (including clay, limestone, and sand) divided into three distinct subzones: Baix Penedès, Alt Penedès, and Medio Penedès.

The low-lying vineyards of Baix Penedès are easily reachable from Sitges, one of Catalunya’s most fashionable and charming summer resorts. The vineyards are found west of the city, chartering a path that includes the coastal town of Calafell and the village of Llorenç del Penedès, situated further north. An eclectic palate of grape varieties thrive in this favored terroir, although the warmer mesoclimate is conducive to ripening styles like Syrah and Grenache. However, most of the wineries we work with are located in the Alt Penedès, where diurnal temperature variation offers real advantages to growers who cultivate vines in these high-altitude climats. It explains the astonishing volume of fresh and elegant whites you’ll encounter here; the Tramontana wind, which blows in from France during winter, is subdued by the Montserrat mountains, which rise majestically above the wine country.

With such a wide range of terrains, the Penedès is full of mesoclimates which the talented winemakers take advantage of to produce such high-quality and varied wines. The vineyards of Medio-Penedès fill an expansive valley, with elevation ranging from 250 to 500 meters above sea level. Many Cava firms source their grapes from this subzone.

The lowdown

Penedès is changing. New styles, subregions, and categories have come to the fore, while investment into sustainable wine growing continues at a lightning pace. Climate change is partly responsible for this hive of activity, as producers seek cooler terroirs and grape varieties that can cope with the increasingly torrid summers and scant rainfall.

Torres had invested in renewable energy sources and reduced carbon footprint, but other trailblazers like Codorniu are not far behind. But most important is Cava’s transformation; the DO has embraced new zoning and classification regulations designed to jolt this troubled ‘brand’ out of its inertia. Cava can certainly offer excellent value: bodegas like Juve y Camps and Codorniu produce very high-quality sparkling wines at attractive prices. Nevertheless, the category’s image has battered recently, as consumers move across to Prosecco and the ‘cheap and cheerful’ epithet stubbornly persists. Consejo’s initiatives won’t work miracles, but they are an important and positive step in the right direction.

“The Only Thing That Is Constant Is Change,” observed the Greek philosopher Heraclitus. It’s a life lesson that few winemakers in Catalunya need to learn.

Penedès gastronomy

The Catalans have got gastronomy and good living down to a fine art. Barcelona hums with the twin sounds of innovation and creativity, although Catalunya has enough traditional restaurants and classic recipes to prevent a slide into molecular overdrive. If you seek age-old flavors and recipes, try escudella to experience a meat, sausage, and vegetable stew, the liquid of which is mixed with noodles and served as a soup – the meat part, known as carn d’olla, soon follows. We also love fideua, a Catalan version of paella, swapping rice for vermicelli noodles and served with meat or fish.

Guide to Catalan Gastronomy: Read more