Ronda and Málaga Wine Region Guide

Winemaking and regional classifications

There are two key appellations in the Málaga province: Málaga and Sierras de Málaga D.O. The former was created in 1932 and continues to regulate the production of sweet wines in the region; Sierras de Málaga was introduced in 2001 as a specific appellation for dry white, red, and rosé wines. Under the Málaga D.O. rules, fortified and passito (sun-dried) styles can be produced, although the appellation is exclusively devoted to sweet wines.

Winemaking has not changed much over the centuries, albeit growers have harnessed all the benefits of modern viticultural techniques and winemaking equipment. After harvesting and raising, the berries are usually fermented on-site in the growers’ often small and basic wineries. This rich base wine will then be taken to ancient cellars in Málaga, where it is mixed with a spirit or sweet, thickened must (arrope). Like Sherry, it is matured using the Solera process whereby older vintages are blended with young ones and aged gradually.

Over time, the Málaga sweet dessert wine matures in wooden barrels and gains color, texture, flavor, and aroma. The D.O. guidelines stipulate that it must be aged for at least two years though some are aged for much longer. Old wines can display an incredible assortment of flavors and aromas: caramel, coffee, raisins, cocoa, nuts, spice, plums, and violets have all been found. A wonderful accompaniment to rich desserts, our first choice would be to match with a rich chocolate dessert. Some older dry examples do exist, comparable to the Oloroso sherry in flavor.

However, in addition to the classic Málaga wine styles described above, a movement has been growing championing lighter, dryer wines, which are unfortified and released at a younger age. These wines have become trendy with sommeliers across the Spanish restaurant trade. They are an encouraging example of the Málaga wine growers adapting to the current climate of tastes and preferences rather than stubbornly refusing to modify their output. The best dry wines of Sierras de Málaga are no less excellent, particularly the Cabernet Sauvignon/Petit Verdot blends that offer an intriguing mix of exotic black fruit and a spicy finish. Today there is also a great deal of buzz surrounding the vineyards of Ronda, where exciting developments have been happening in winemaking since the early 1980s.

That year, an entrepreneur called Friedrich Schatz, who had already researched the region’s potential, visited the area in 1982 and soon realized that the diurnal variation in temperature, with warm days and cooler nights, presented ideal growing conditions for certain grape varieties. He founded Bodegas Friedrich Schatz and planted Petit Verdot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, Tempranillo, Lemberger, and Muskattrollinger – a relative of the Muscat family. His success in crafting high-quality wines encouraged others to invest in the area, and today winemakers from Spain, Argentina, and even Austria market their wares.

After years of lobbying, winemakers in Ronda were granted an official sub-appellation D.O.: Serranía de Ronda. Of course, the wines vary in style and quality, but the best show a powerful ripeness and intensity of fruit, balanced by good acidity. The wines are a testament to how far the Málaga industry has come in a little over 30 years. It has been rescued from a slow death by pioneers like Telmo Rodriguez and Schatz, who revitalized the fantastic potential of this historic winemaking region and have invested countless hours into bringing its reputation back into the fold. On the evidence to date, they’ve succeeded.

Geography and terroir

The vineyards of Málaga are planted in a vast geographical area in southern Andalucia, encompassing some 1000 hectares of vines. Indeed, winegrowing occurs in the mountainous hinterland north of Málaga and along the city’s Mediterranean coastline. Antequera, Axarquia, San Pedro Alcantara, Manilva, Ronda, and Velez are the main production areas. Such a wide production area inevitably offers great differences in terroir and climatic zones, leading to diverse growing conditions. The westernmost subregion, Manilva, is close to the Atlantic and benefits from its cooling influences. The humid weather and rich, fertile soils produce large, bountiful harvests, most of which are used in table grape production.
Meanwhile, the region of Axarquia lies at the opposite end of the province, east of Málaga. Many vineyards are at high altitudes, planted on steep terraces over gravelly limestone soils, necessitating manual grape harvesting. After harvesting, the crop is usually dried on open-air beds in the hot Andalusian sun to raisin the grapes and concentrate the sugars. The predominant grape variety here is Moscatel, or Muscat de Alexandria, grown worldwide under various synonyms. The grape has powerful floral and earthy flavors and thrives in hot climates like Andalusia.

The Antequera subzone, which is to be found north of Málaga, is predominately planted with the Pedro Ximenez grape, although many of Málaga’s wines are made from a blend of the two varietals. The soils are predominately iron and clay-based, with a significant amount of limestone.

Most of Málaga’s wine is produced in this inland sub-region, characterized by savage climate extremes – boiling summers and cold winters. This does seem to suit its signature variety – Ximenez. It was allegedly named after a 17th-century soldier who is thought to have brought the variety from the Rhine via the Canary Islands. Unfortunately, no such evidence exists, but it remains a good story! Pedro Ximenez is a soft, thin-skinned white variety that needs a hot climate to ripen fully. The resulting wine has a very high sugar content, made even higher after the raising process employed by the region’s growers. This process accounts for the wine’s traditionally dark color, although both Moscatel and Pedro Ximenez are white grapes.

If you head northwest from Málaga City, you’ll soon arrive at the spectacular living museum called Ronda. Before the arrival of Friedrich Schatz in the region, the area had languished in obscurity, with few vineyards and no real status as a wine region. Today the surrounding landscape supports a thriving – and growing – wine industry; the vineyards are some of the highest in the Málaga zone, rising to over 750 meters above sea level. The terroir is a mixture of alluvial and calcareous soils, while the climate is quintessential Mediterranean: hot summers and mild winters. As elsewhere, elevation is the winegrowers’ secret weapon. This encourages diurnal temperature variation (a significant temperature difference between day and night), which maintains acidity in the grapes. Without this topographical advantage, producing fresh and balanced wines in southern Andalucia would be challenging.

The lowdown

Over the past 15 years, a renaissance has occurred in this once-forgotten corner of Andalusia. Pioneers like Telmo Rodriguez have helped to revive the moribund Moscatel industry with his stunning Molino Real wines, which have found favor across Europe and encouraged a new generation of wine drinkers to enjoy Málaga’s sweeter styles. There has also been a surge of interest in red wine production, particularly around the gorgeous city of Ronda and the higher-altitude sites in the Southern Andalucia mountains. The resurgence in Málaga’s late-harvest dessert wines is a development we can all applaud. But, commercial reality will ultimately dictate Andalucia’s future, which lies in producing high-quality dry styles: wines that balance ripeness against finesse.

Initially, that seemed like a quixotic fantasy – how can fresh dry whites be made in a hot Mediterranean climate? Is this the best environment for Pinot Noir and Sauvignon Blanc? In light of climate change, controlling ripeness and alcohol levels in many Spanish regions has become a major headache. Yet due to the wider region’s undulating landscape, this goal can be achieved.

The first ingredient is elevation: vineyards planted in Andalucia climb to 1,300 meters above sea level. Rivaling the most spectacular mountain vineyards of the Mendoza region in Argentina, temperatures plummet in the evening in these high-altitude sites. So the vine’s metabolism grinds to a snail’s pace. Winegrowers use this natural device worldwide to avoid a high pH and unwieldy alcohol; acid is not lost as the berries accumulate sugars. Intelligent canopy management, clonal selection, and earlier harvests are also important. In a world where international markets are increasingly king, deviation from this paradigm is not advised.

Of course, purists may claim that classical values are being lost with the increasing commonality of dry wines, but there are enough styles and variety to please everyone today. That includes investors and accountants, who continue to encourage – or maybe coerce – winemakers into producing commercially viable wines that can be sold abroad. But, thanks to men like Rodriguez, the Moscatel and Pedro Ximenez grapes also play a role in 21st-century Andalucia.

Ronda and Málaga gastronomy

Andalucian cooking is quintessentially Mediterranean: olive oil, garlic, onions, tomatoes, and peppers are used liberally in many traditional dishes. Meanwhile, the fruit and vegetables grown in Andalucia are delicious and fresh; the growing season is almost year-round. But, most visitors regard tapas as the seminal gastronomic experience while touring Spain. These bar snacks have become a cuisine in their own right, and each Spanish region has its specialties. There’s infinite scope for talented chefs to combine flavors and textures, especially in the atmospheric taverns of Málaga’s old town. Culinary heaven awaits.

Guide to Andalusian Gastronomy: Read more