Toro Wine Region Guide

Winemaking and regional classifications

Toro is renowned for its big, bold reds. Such wines are made in the cellar as much as the vineyard; long macerations and the prolific use of new French oak is hardly conducive to subtlety. But a wine does not have to be restrained – or dainty – to qualify as world-class: full-bodied, meaty Toro is wonderful alongside rich casseroles and flame-grilled meats. It proudly wears its voluptuous body and weight on its sleeve, delivering a rich mouthful of red and black fruit balanced by a savory, spicy edge. Most of Toro’s best-known wines are 100 percent Tinto de Toro, although wines with just 75 percent of the variety can still qualify for DO status. Other varieties grown here include Garnacha and Cabernet Sauvignon (although only Garnacha is permitted to accompany the Tinto de Toro in DO-certified wines).

However, Toro is no one-trick pony. A small volume of excellent white wine is made here, typically from a blend of Malvasía and Verdejo. Moreover, many tapas bars and restaurants in Castilla y Leon make a healthy trade in inexpensive, juicy reds for early consumption. To satisfy that market, some Tinto de Toro is vinified quickly by carbonic maceration (the technique used to make Beaujolais) and sold at a very young age. Barrel-aged Toro Reservas and Gran Reservas are at the opposite end of the spectrum, matured for 12 months and two years, respectively. To be frank, they will knock your socks off, particularly if you crave a dose of Spanish hedonism and vivacity in a glass.

Geography and terroir

Tucked away in western Castilla y Leon (a large autonomous region that encompasses historic towns like Salamanca, Leon, Avila, Zamora, Segovia, Burgos, and Valladolid) and only a mere 40km from the Portuguese border, the DO (appellation) of Toro is a historic, overwhelmingly rural region known for its bold red wines. Its 5600 hectares extend throughout a floodplain bounded by the Río Guareña and Río Duero, the latter a wide river responsible for nourishing such great wine-producing areas as Ribera del Duero, Rueda, and the Douro and Porto regions of Portugal.

One of the appellation’s most precious resources is a sizable collection of old bush vines (about 1200 hectares) yielding small berries packed with rich flavor. These ungrafted vineyards produce Toro’s finest reds, grown in a fiercely hot continental climate; temperatures often exceed 40 degrees in July and August, yet winter can get very cold. As a result, vine irrigation is essential in this incredibly arid landscape.

Thus, producing balanced and fresh wines in Toro is no picnic: one of the biggest headaches is excessive ripeness, as sugar levels can rocket during the summer months. Naturally, few winegrowers covet this excess of glycerol, alcohol, and extract; however, Toro benefits from abundant high-altitude climats. At 620-840 meters above sea level, the region’s producers can depend on cool nights to ‘fix’ the acid imbalance and maintain freshness until harvest time. In addition, the soils are a mix of clay, sand, and calcareous marl – since summers can be long, hot, and dry (with cool, crisp nights), vines can tap into the deep moisture in these clay soils. High-quality wine production would be impossible in Toro without their ability to retain moisture.

The lowdown

Longstanding aficionados of Spanish wines would hardly recognize Toro today. Yet, once a neglected corner of northwest Spain’s viticultural landscape, this small, fashionable DO west of Valladolid is now making delectable reds that rival the best of Cigales and, more importantly, Ribera del Duero. The net result: Castilla y Leon is producing ever-greater volumes of high-quality wines based on the Tempranillo grape.

This expansion is to be welcomed for three key reasons.

Firstly it keeps producers on their toes. Success can breed apathy (just ask Cava) while increasing competition will prevent a slide into mediocrity. This can be seen with the efforts to reign in the sometimes harsh tannins of Toro wines, keeping freshness at the fore. Admittedly, the local Tinta de Toro does not always deliver balance in the hot climate of northern Spain; however, the number of coarse and over-alcoholic wines decreases yearly. Indeed, your choices are numerous: the black-scented Prima, glorious old-vine San Roman, Vega Sicilia’s marvelous Pintia, and the always powerful reds of Numanthia and Teso la Monja.

Secondly, it encourages a more collegiate approach to both winemaking and viticulture. The level of mutual interest – many owners have vineyards in Toro and Ribera del Duero – is a perfect example. Toro’s winemaking has evolved toward better balance – and less aggressive oaking – precisely because that philosophy has paid such handsome dividends in other parts of Castilla y Leon, not least the expansive plains of the Duero.

Thirdly, it helps to keep prices stable. The market’s sheer amount of good wine has prevented excessive speculation and inflation, although the most famous labels are not cheap. But much of Toro is not aimed at oligarchs; few regions can deliver the immense concentration and opulent richness that makes these wines so exciting. Salud!

Toro gastronomy

They say that going to bed before midnight is a crime in Madrid. Likewise, arriving in Castilla Y Leon without a healthy appetite is to deny yourself a surfeit of culinary delights, not least the famous Spanish jamon, sheep cheeses, oven-roasted lamb with garlic, and hearty stews. Every meal is a veritable feast in northwestern Spain, regardless of whether you’re dining in a glitzy restaurant or a humble tapas bar. Look out for the Zamorano cheese, in addition to the potent blood sausage, roast calf, and exceptional wild game; pigeon, partridge, and rabbit all feature heavily in the winter months.

Guide to Castilla y Leon gastronomy: Read more