Spain’s third largest city, Valencia, is situated right on the Mediterranean. It is known for its balmy climate, long white beaches, a gastronomic tradition of Paella, and exuberant nightlife. Indeed, the star attractions of this corner of eastern Spain have been well documented, much more so than the often delicious and excellent value wines located inland from the city itself. And while the area’s reputation was arguably built on cheap and cheerful table wines and sweet fortified Moscatel, the inquisitive wine lover is waiting to discover much more.
Yet this shift into quality winemaking is a relatively new development. The 20th century did Valencia’s reputation no favors: an abundance of heat and sunshine, combined with generous levels of irrigation, is a recipe for inflated bunches and mediocre wine. But, as the global market for plonk continues to diminish, Valencia is focusing on exporting premium wine styles – of all three colors – for a discerning audience. Thankfully, the message is starting to hit home.
Valencia has a long and proud history of vine cultivation; archaeological evidence suggests that wine has been made in the region since Neolithic times. This was documented by the ancient writers Marcial and Juvenal, who mentioned Valencia’s wine industry—with the Roman arrival in Spain in the 1st century BC, vine plantations and wine production increased dramatically to satisfy the demands of the Roman forces. However, after Rome lost control of Western Europe in the 5th century, Valencia became embroiled in numerous wars between rival civilizations from northern Europe. The Franks, Vandals, and Visigoths had designs on eastern Spain before the Moors arrived in 711. Centuries ago, Muslim settlers transformed Valencia’s huerta – a fertile plain lacking sufficient water for agriculture. Yet today, the province is a sea of orange groves and market gardens, a product of the Moor’s ingenuity in building irrigation channels that made the region bloom.
However, the provinces of Castellon, Valencia, and Alicante (which make up the Comunidad Valenciana) were reconquered in the Middle Ages by an army from neighboring Catalunya. The language these troops left behind evolved into a regional dialect known as ‘Valenciano,’ which is gaining ground as a concurrent language to Castellano. Meanwhile, Valencia’s development as a port ensured that a lucrative trade would develop through the centuries, and the wine export business became very important for the city from the 16th century onward.
The city became one of the Mediterranean’s key maritime cities, although Seville ‘stole’ some of Valencia’s cachet as it became the main hub of trade with the New World. Economic hardships were a sad feature of life in the 16th and 17th centuries, although the 1800s witnessed industrialization and the growth in large-scale farming. Valencia was transformed into the citrus capital of Europe, exporting its goods across the globe.
The city assumed a role of great importance during the Spanish Civil War; the Republican government abandoned Madrid during the conflict with the Nationalists, setting up a short-lived capital in Valencia. But after General Francisco Franco emerged triumphant in 1939, all regional autonomy was swiftly abandoned as Spain was ruled with an iron grip. The situation only improved in the 1970s after the country made a relatively painless transition to democracy. Rapid economic growth soon followed, enhanced by Spain’s membership in the EU.
Unfortunately, this late 20th-century prosperity had little impact on Valencia’s wine industry, as its key stakeholders continued to produce large quantities of indifferent bulk wines. However, there have been some remarkable improvements in quality recently, with a growing interest in exploiting premier sites inland containing some higher-altitude old vines. As with other once-marginalized Spanish wine regions, younger generations of growers and winemakers are keen to shed this image and fully understand their terroirs and what varieties can be grown well across the region. They’re in the winegrowing business to prove a point, a fact that benefits consumers everywhere.
Winemaking and regional classifications
The region was awarded DO status in 1957; the appellation permits various categories to be produced. This is partly borne out of commercial necessity due to the stagnating market for sweet Moscastel – Valencia’s historically important export. But today’s winemaker needs the freedom to explore other commercially viable wine styles, particularly saline dry whites, and fresh reds. Fortunately, a broad palate of wines are being made in Valencia today, including some delicious Cava.
Valencia’s vineyards are planted with a mixture of indigenous and international grapes. The local white variety Merseguera, which produces very light and pleasantly fresh white wines, is predominant in the region, allowing 16 types of grapes to be planted. Typically, it displays citrus and grassy notes and makes a wonderful summer drink. Likewise, the famous Moscatel grape produces wonderfully unctuous fortified wines in the Moscatel de Valencia area, some of which are of exceptional value. Macabeo, Chardonnay, Riesling, Sauvignon Blanc, and Semillón Blanc also find their way into the eclectic white blends of the DO. Meanwhile, a red wine from Valencia may incorporate any percentage of Tempranillo, Monastrell, Bobal, Tintorera, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Syrah, Garnacha Tinta, Graciano, Mazuelo, and Petit Verdot. The possibilities are virtually limitless – approaches to winemaking and maturation are no less varied.
As a result, it takes work to pinpoint the Valencian quintessential wine style. However, it would be correct to say that this fascinating corner of Spain is the land of diversity above all else. The wineries run the gamut from small boutique operations, international companies, and cooperatives, while the wines range from award-winning reds to aromatic whites, fortified wines, and Cava. The DO’s continuing survival depends on its ability to cater to all palates and price points.
The Valencia DO (appellation) is one of the largest in the Comunidad Valenciana region of eastern Spain, with approximately 18,000 hectares under vine. It has traditionally been divided into three geographically separate growing areas and four subzones mainly found inland and in the northern end of the Valencia province. As you’d expect, the subsequent climatic and growing conditions vary considerably.
In broad terms, the vineyards located nearer the coast have a Mediterranean climate, whereas most vineyards situated further inland have a markedly continental climate. The ensuing hot summers (temperatures regularly exceed 104 degrees Fahrenheit) and cold winters provide growers with many challenges, not to mention the threat of violent storms in late summer/fall. But the biggest threat to quality grape growing in the region is drought; due to the arid summers, the authorities permit irrigation across the area, which is usually forbidden in most wine regions. Consequently, the higher-altitude and sheltered vineyard sites are in high demand, as they generally produce the best wines.
The vineyards of Clariano are found to the southwest of Valencia city, in the southernmost part of the province. Vines are cultivated on limestone and clay soils, although climatic conditions can vary significantly; the cooler coastal areas specialize in white varieties, whereas further inland, potent and robust red wines are the mainstays of growers’ livelihoods. However, Valentino is the largest wine subregion, situated to the northeast of the city of Valencia. The mild Mediterranean climate of the area, combined with the moderating effect of the elevated slopes and the limestone soils, allows for the production of fruity, aromatic whites and reds without harsh alcohol levels.
In contrast, Alto Turia’s sub-zone is located west of the city and generally has sandy soils with some chalk content. Furthermore, it occupies a mountainous region with vineyards planted at altitudes as high as 1100 meters above sea level. These conditions moderate the summer heat and encourage aromatic white wines, which thrive in these conditions.
Finally, the lower reaches of the Turia Valley are largely planted to Moscatel de Alejandra – some of Valencia’s top sweet wines are made here: potent and yet very fresh. Nevertheless, as the vagaries of fashion swing further and further away from celebrating sweetness in the wine, growers are moving towards drier styles.
Facts & Figures
Key wine styles
Concentrated red wines, full-bodied whites, dessert wines
Appellation structure
Valencia DO
Hectares under vine
Approximately 18,000
Average annual production
500,000 hectoliters
100
Approximate number of wineries
The lowdown
Barón de Turís, one of the top Moscatel producers
Over the past 15 years, Valencia’s wine culture has moved in an exciting new direction. Producers are throwing off the shackles of mediocrity, distancing themselves from the DO’s bulk wine past. But this isn’t simply a marketing exercise; there have been dramatic improvements in quality (fruitier whites and fresher reds) with many artisan wineries and new collaborations appearing. For some critics, Valencia’s delicious sweet Moscatel wines are still its crowning glory. Nevertheless, a sustainable future lies in the production of dry styles. Not to mention a greater volume of sparkling wine, a category that shows no signs of becoming passé.
Yet there are challenges ahead, in addition to numerous opportunities. Valencia’s wines remain (relatively) unknown abroad, and restaurant listings outside of Spain are rare. Still, the region has a great deal going for it, including ongoing investment and reliable weather – occasionally too hot! – and a panoply of different varieties. Moreover, a mosaic of diverse terroir is becoming better understood, with intelligent site selection yielding some stunning wines. Today these unique and modern wines beckon to be discovered. Valencia is waiting for you.
Muscat of Alexandria, or "Moscatel de Alejandría" in Spain, thrives in the country's diverse terroirs. Spanish winemakers utilize its captivating qualities to produce a range of wines, including renowned sweet fortified wines, dry whites, and delightful dessert wines, showcasing its intense floral aromas, luscious sweetness, and versatile character.
Merseguera
Merseguera grape is a white grape variety native to Spain, particularly Valencia and Alicante. With a rich history and ability to showcase terroir, it produces versatile wines with delicate aromas, balanced acidity, and subtle flavors. Whether enjoyed on its own or used for blending, Merseguera remains a beloved choice among wine enthusiasts, adding charm and character to the Spanish winemaking tradition.
Malvasia
Malvasia is a captivating grape variety with a rich history and a tapestry of flavors. Believed to have originated in the eastern Mediterranean, it has journeyed across continents, leaving its mark on renowned wine regions. This ancient grape showcases remarkable versatility, offering diverse expressions and styles.
Boal is a grape variety grown primarily on the island of Madeira, known for producing rich, medium-sweet wines with flavors of caramel, dried fruit, and nuts. With a deep amber color and a slightly smoky aroma, Boal wines have a smooth, velvety texture and a long, complex finish.
Graciano is a red grape variety that is primarily grown in Spain's Rioja region. Known for its thick skins, small berries, and low yields, this grape produces wines that are deeply colored, highly tannic, and full-bodied, with a range of aromas from dark fruit to spices and leather
Mazuelo
Marzuelo grape is a red wine variety primarily grown in Spain, particularly Rioja, and Navarra. Its small, thick-skinned berries produce deeply colored wines with a rich, full-bodied taste and intense black fruit and spice aromas.
Discover Tempranillo: Spain's iconic red grape. From Ribera del Duero to Toro, it yields concentrated wines. Explore its synonyms and unleash its prowess.
The Mediterranean cuisine of Spain’s eastern seaboard owes much to foreign influences, especially the Romans and Moors. The latter introduced citrus, rice, almonds, and saffron to local kitchens – Valencia’s gastronomic traditions rely heavily on produce from the sea and the mountains. The region’s most iconic dish is Paella, a Valencian rice dish cooked in a large, shallow, two-handled pan. At its best, the aroma and depth of flavor are incomparable: short-grain Spanish rice, perfumed with saffron, is simmered with a variety of ingredients that can include chicken, shellfish, rabbit, herbs, and beans. But it must be enjoyed at source – Valencia’s old town should be your first port of call.
Author
James lawrence
With a passion for food & drink that verges on the obsessive, wine writer James Lawrence has traveled the world in search of the perfect tipple. To date, nothing has surpassed the 1952 R. Lopez de Heredia Vina Tondonia Rioja Reserva, tasted in the cobweb-filled cellars with owner María José. Meanwhile, James has been writing for a wide variety of publications for over 12 years, including Telegraph, Decanter, Harpers, The Drinks Business, and Wine Business International. He lives in South Wales and returns to his former university city, Bilbao, as much as possible.
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