Maremma Wine Region Guide

Winemaking and regional classifications

The Maremma is often referred to as the “Wild West,” both in terms of its landscapes and winemaking. Indeed, both the Maremma DOC (founded in 2011) and the IGT (Indicazione Geografica Tipica) designations permit a broad spectrum of wine styles to be made here, including Bordeaux blends, sumptuous Chardonnay and crisp Vermentino. A philosophy that is best described as ‘New World’ has taken root here; it is common practice (and encouraged by the authorities) to reference grape varieties on the front label. By comparison, this would be severely frowned upon when marketing Brunello di Montalcino or Chianti Classico. Moreover, the Consorzio updated the rules in 2020 to allow two varieties to be named on the bottle. This ruffled feathers in the more reactionary enclaves of Tuscany, yet it has proven to be a massive hit with consumers.

But the region’s biggest commercial success remains the Bolgheri Rosso DOC – Sassicaia has its own appellation. Bolgheri Rosso can be built around 100% Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, or Cabernet Franc, although many winemakers prefer to emulate the Bordeaux philosophy of blending two or more varieties to enhance complexity; Syrah and Sangiovese can constitute up to 50 percent of the blend, while Petit Verdot is limited to 30 percent. As elsewhere, fermentation methods can vary significantly from property to property, although all the best Bolgheri reds are matured in oak, normally French barrique. With careful winemaking and judicious barrel aging, Bolgheri Cabernet Sauvignon will reveal intense blackcurrant flavors, blueberry, vanilla, and tobacco. Of course, Alta Maremma is not the only source of delectable Cab.

Further south, Giacomo Tachis aided Elisabetta Geppetti in establishing Fattoria Le Pupille on the outskirts of Grosseto. Planted on sandstone terroir, Geppetti’s Cabernet is glorious in its exoticism: mature vintages reek of truffles, prunes, and sweet spices. The Sangiovese reds of Morellino di Scansano DOCG are no less fine.

Meanwhile, Bolgheri Bianco stakes its reputation on fresh and fruity Vermentino, blended with smaller amounts of Sauvignon Blanc and Trebbiano Toscano. Rosé and sparkling wine styles are growing in popularity, too – a competitor to Prosecco, perhaps? Ambitious producers are also increasingly focused on marketing a superior Riserva category of wine, regulated by the Maremma DOC framework. Thus, white wines must be aged for a period of one year before release; Rosso Riservas spend two years (six months in wood) in quiet contemplation before they can be sold.

Geography and terroir

The Maremma is one of Europe’s great undiscovered treasures. Running parallel to the Tyrrhenian Sea, the region begins just south of the port of Livorno, continuing down to Grosseto in southwestern Tuscany. It is traditionally divided into two subregions: Alta Maremma and Maremma Grossetana. The former includes the region’s most famous appellation, Bolgheri, home to collector favorites Sassicaia and Masseto. One of the region’s leading terroirs is the aptly named Colline Metallifere, a chain of hills rich in minerals that forms an amphitheater with a very advantageous climate: mild winters and a long, dry growing season between May and October. There are over 2,480 sunshine hours per year in the Maremma. Rain-soaked vintages are very rare in this Mediterranean vineyard.

Yet the terrain and soils of the Maremma are far from homogeneous. In the midst of herb-covered scrubland, hills, and pine forests, you’ll find igneous and calcareous terroir; loam, sandstone, gravel, clay, and sandy soils enable a wide range of styles to be made here. This has been a major priority over the past 15 years: matching the correct variety to the right site. The best plots for Cabernet Sauvignon have turned out to be the higher, stonier plantings. However, Merlot needs soils with a high clay content. Elsewhere, warm sandy soils yield light and aromatic reds of great finesse; Petit Verdot tends to do well in the warmest climats (vineyard sites) of the Maremma.

However, a growing volume of white wine is produced in southwestern Tuscany – white grapes require cooler spots and water-retentive terroir. Fortunately, this part of Tuscany offers an infinitely variable topography, with important elevation, mesoclimate, and aspect differences. Some of the zone’s finest Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc, for example, are planted on north-facing sites close to the Tyrrhenian Sea; maritime breezes help to cool the vine canopy and preserve freshness in the wines. Meanwhile, high-altitude vineyards enjoy all the benefits of diurnal temperature variation – a significant temperature difference between day and night. This helps to slow the vine’s metabolism and prevent acid levels from falling below desirable levels. Nevertheless, irrigation may be necessary in the Maremma’s increasingly torrid summers to avoid hydric stress and vine shutdown.

The lowdown

The Maremma produces such a profusion of wine styles, made on diverse mesoclimates and soils using ever-changing methods, that attempts to parcel them neatly are foolish and impossible. Yet the region does have a signature grape variety, and that variety is Cabernet Sauvignon. Yes, indeed – Sangiovese does not pay the piper in the vineyards of coastal Tuscany. It is one of the few wine zones where imported grapes routinely outperform their Italian neighbors.

This has been the case since Sassicaia exploded onto the scene in 1971 (first vintage 1968), wowing the critics and silencing the naysayers. Although Tignanello, Solaia, and their modern contemporaries are exceptional wines, there is no doubt that Bolgheri-grown Cabernet Sauvignon surpasses all competition from central Tuscany. Of course, not everyone welcomes this reality: the continued planting of French grapes at the expense of indigenous varieties can upset the traditionalists. Some have even called this “an invasion” as Chardonnay, Merlot, and Cabernet become ubiquitous worldwide.

But the fact remains that Maremma Cabernet Sauvignon is outstanding: far more than simply another varietal expression of the grape. Thus, the best wines offer a synergy of terroir, climate, and winemaking. They marry the best elements of Bordeaux and Tuscany – the scent of garrigue interspersed with cassis. The top examples are very fragrant and supple; where Merlot has been added, they are voluptuous and round. Moreover, while they improve with bottle age, they do not require a decade in the cellar: three to four years will see most reds become approachable, including Ornellaia. As the estate’s ex-winemaker Axel Heinz once observed, “Ornellaia is more immediate, opulent and extrovert than say a typical Medoc, but with the freshness and balance essential for any fine wine to age.” In the world of deluxe Cabernet, Tuscany has few peers.

Maremma gastronomy

Farm-to-table dining is a way of life in the bucolic landscape of southern Tuscany. But your options aren’t limited to the interior: sensational seafood is always up for grabs in the Maremma, particularly in the underrated city of Livorno. Try the cacciucco, a pungent fish stew of octopus, and whatever else was swimming about that morning! All those concentrated Bordeaux blends in Bolgheri demand an equally robust pairing: cinghiale (wild boar) shoulder is divine, slowly cooked in Merlot and served with garlic mash.

A Guide to the Gastronomy and Cuisine of Tuscany: Read more