We had high expectations for the Irish artisan suppliers we had researched for our new tours, based on what we have been hearing over the last year in the gastro press and word of mouth and after the inspection visits we are delighted to say this summer has been a roaring success in terms of finding enthusiastic suppliers and entrepreneurial food producers. Our new tours will be online as soon as we create the new itineraries with our new cheese producers, chefs, smokehouses, luxury hotels, limo drivers and entertaining guides! Why are we so excited? Some info on what’s happening in the foodie scene in Ireland:
GOOD FOOD IRELAND
We were put in touch with this fantastic non profit organization, Good Food Ireland, through the managing director of the superb Merrion Hotel in Dublin (also included in our new tours) and met the director Margaret Jeffares in her beautiful home near Wexford to talk about the association. Over fresh scones and coffee Margaret passionately told us talked about some of the producers in her association and their dedication to preserve and promote Irish small scale and high quality food production. GFI says ” The Good Food Ireland ethos is to prioritize the core indigenous ingredients of Irish cuisine and promote local and artisan food producers. ” Members include famous Michelin starred chefs like Derry Clarke (L’ Ecrivain, Dublin); the organic Apple Farm in Cahir; superb Irish farmhouse cheese producers like Gubbeen, Knockanore and Ardrahan; Smokehouses like the Burren Smokehouse in a gorgeous part of County Clare and the Connemara Smokehouse in the wild west; artisan butchers like McGeough´s in pretty Oughterard and Jack McCarthy in Kanturk (Cork).
We visited one of GFI´s most dedicated members, the Arlington Lodge, run by the very charming owner Maurice Keller and had our first fantastic lunch of the gourmet inspection- homemade game paté, St Tola Goat’s Cheese Bruschetta with red onion marmalade, local Atlantic crab claws (in photo above), corn fed Irish chicken…. delicious. Maurice passionately explained his belief about about using all local ultra high quality produce to try and fight the wave of cheap food imports to Ireland (tough and inferior chicken and tasteless frozen fish- mainly from around Asia). The Arlington is a pretty little historic Georgian house with period style furniture, and fabulous food indeed, highly recommended. We are putting together a ten day gourmet itinerary in Ireland for our foodie clients featuring Good Food Ireland members (many luxury hotels, high end restaurants and charming Irish country hotels are also members!), so keep an eye out on our website for this.
SLOW FOOD IN IRELAND
You might be surprised to discover that Ireland has one of the most active and exciting Slow Food chapters in Europe, much more so even than France or Spain. Celebrity foodie Clodagh McKenna (whose Irish Farmers Market Cook Book is highly recommended!) writes this in the Slow Food Ireland guide´s foreword, “For anyone with even a passing interest in food, Ireland has become an extremely interesting place to live or visit. Of all the many developments, two are particularly thrilling. The first is the emergence of the producer as hero. Suddenly farmers, fisherman, growers and artisans are being recognized and rewarded for the skill and care they devote to their chosen work. The second is the rapid expansion of farmer´s markets and specialist food shops. Crucially, the sense of connection between producer and consumer, which was under threat, is growing stronger”.
Slow Food Ireland´s members include many small producers like the Biddy Early Brewery (Ireland´s first microbrewery), excellent bakers like Arbutus Bread, air dried hams such as Krawczyk´s West Cork Salamis (West Cork, by the way is gourmet paradise with the highest concentration of gourmet producers, also stunning scenery) and then of course the gourmet goddesses Giana Ferguson of Gubbeen and Darina Allen of Ballymaloe (who head the local Slow Food chapters of West Cork and East Cork respectively). This month, Slow Food organized the first Terra Madre gourmet extravaganza event in Ireland, in the Norman town of Waterford. It brought together foodies, journalists, consumers, and showcased the creme de la creme of Irish food producers. Various conferences were held on sustainability of food production, ethics questions, genetic modification, etc. From all accounts, the event was a roaring success and definitely was a chance to discuss the trends, controversies and predictions for the future of Ireland´s food scene.
ARTISAN CHEESE PRODUCERS
We visited some fantastic dedicated cheese producers, hardworking and exceptionally charming people who are very open to the idea of gourmet tourism. Highlights included Gubbeen and Durrus and there are still many, many more producers to visit!
Gubbeen- The Ferguson family are culinary pioneers in Ireland and over the last decade have gained international fame for their cheeses and more recently for their smokehouse products, but the history of the farm goes back much longer, for five generations! Husband Tom is proud of of their “cheesemaker´s herd” of British Friesan, Simmenthal, Jersey and Shorthorn, as well as the indigenous Kerry Cow. Wife Giana began making cheese at this gorgeous West Cork farm back in the late ´70´s, and has cultivated the Gubbeen brand over the decades. The estate makes the flagship Gubbeen cheese (semi soft with creamy and nutty flavors), and a smoked Gubbeen which son Fingal smokes in the onsite smokehouse. Fingal also makes a range of exquisite smoked salamis, hams, bacon and sausages (no ordinary sausages!), many flavored with herbs that daughter Clovisse grows in her onsite herb garden(photo below). A large portion of the Gubbeen products are sold at local farmers markets around West Cork and Cork city, such as the fantastic market in their own village of Schull (a pretty fishing hamlet on the coast).
Durrus- Located in the same-named pretty hamlet in a breathtakingly beautiful corner of West Cork, we visited Jeffa Gill´s small, pretty estate. This award winning cheese (now sold at the famed Murrays Cheese Shop in New York) is made from a local herd which grazes on the Sheep´s Head Peninsula, and is made using all traditional methods. Durrus is so famous on the international foodie scene that they have had French students come to doing a “stage” and annually host a group from Slow Food in Italy who come to picnic in their peaceful garden (in photo below) on their delicious cheese. Jeffa, along with Giana of Gubbeen, is keenly involved with Slow Food activities and is a member of the Irish Farmhouse Cheese Association. Just a few minutes down the road is the fabulous Good Things Cafe, one of this areas gastro gems. The drive here from Gubbeen (in Schull) has to be one of the loveliest drives in Ireland!
ARTISAN SMOKEHOUSES
Ireland is home to a small select group of master smokers and it seems that the gourmet press is catching on fast. Smoked Salmon has long been a prized commodity in Ireland and these days, top producers are branching out into smoked cheese, smoked chicken, even smoked eels! We had the pleasure to visit some of the best Irish smokehouses and some top picks in county Cork include:
Belvelly - Located near Cobh (the Titanic’s last stop), this tiny smokehouse is run by the effervescent Frank Hederman and his lovely wife Caroline (who co-wrote the “Good Food in Cork” guide along with Ireland´s cherished culinary granny Myrtle Allen. We visited on a gusty morning right before the salmon had been delivered and saw the cheeses being smoked. Frank is a real character, well known in all the local markets and the Irish and British gourmet press. He told us all about the history of the business and showed us around. Belvelly is Ireland´s oldest traditional smokehouse and the salmon, mackerel, and (mythical) mussels that he smokes are cured with organic English salt and hang-smoked using beech wood. Caroline is starting up a gourmet shop on their property to showcase their own products, naturally, but also ancillary products like home smokers, sea salt, and gourmet goods from Ireland. We had some great ideas with Caroline for our tours, keep your eyes peeled.
Ummera- Owned and run by the softspoken and very charming Anthony Creswell, Ummera makes one of the most tantalizing delicacies I have ever tasted- smoked chicken. Sounds simple, right? You could almost mistake it for “roast chicken”, but no- smoked chicken is out of this world. Words cannot describe the chicken bliss….. Luckily Anthony sells and ships abroad, so try it for yourself! Not many smokers are actually licensed for both meat and fish, and as Ireland is ultra (some say even overly) cautious about food hygiene, Anthony had a tough time getting all the papers in order to be able to smoke his famous chickens on this beautiful estate in Timoleague (known for its dramatic 13th century Abbey in the photo below, and for another local foodie producer, “Mella´s Fudge”). The smokehouse is tiny, as they all are, and after a short tour of the production facility we went for a walk (me in high heels!) along the river on his sprawling estate. Anthony worked in the wine business for years, and only in his later life decided to go into his father´s line of work- master smoker. The quality of their products is top class. The dry cured bacon, organic farmed salmon from county Clare and of course that smoked crown of chicken- simple and mouth watering! Ummera also looks after a very interesting blog with plenty of news on their own business as well as other foodie news in Ireland.
Artkuisine first opened its doors in 2007 after Chef Lefevre had ample training in other fine Barcelona establishments and with the influence of some of Spain’s most celebrated chef’s like Martin Berasategui and Ferran Adrià. These influences are reflected in the inventive food combinations, the overall presentation and finally the impressive attention to detail. In fact, if you like one of the pieces of Miss Rogla’s artwork found on the walls and on the table centerpieces, they can be purchased directly through the restaurant. Artkuisine is the complete experience: art for the palette and for the eyes.
As you enter the Artkuisine Restaurant run by the gracious Fanny Fiolleau & the talented young chef Rémy Lefebvre, you immediately get a feeling of both warmth and elegance in the lavishly painted white dining room, surrounded by the artwork of whimsical catalan artist , Mercedes Rogla. This wonderful impression continues with the hospitality and creative details of the dishes. Aside from the a la carte menu, guests have a choice between several tasting menus or from the chef’s own personal selection of the day. I selected the 4 course tasting menu, which did not disappoint.
Following some tasty “amuse-bouches”, the first course was the curious combination of sardines marinated with mustard, and accompanied by shallots, quince and guacamole! Contrary to what you may think , this dish was delicious with just the right blend of each ingredient. The second course was a refreshing and visually delightful calamari salad with a light Caesar dressing, bacon, lemon and edible flowers. It was almost a shame to eat this beauty!
The third course was a seafood medley of twice cooked “scorpion” fish with rice from the delta, and accompanied by fried baby squid and cuttlefish. Great care was taken in the combining these three to just the right degree of perfection. The final dish, the dessert, was a lovely Bordeaux cinnamon tart topped with a green apple liqueur and accompanied by scoop of homemade almond ice cream. A perfect end to an exceptional meal.
Restaurante artkuisine
C/ Madrazo, 137 - 08021 Barcelona
T. 93 202 31 46
www.artkuisine.blogspot.com
www.mercedesrogla.com
When you think of Ireland you think of castles, stately manor homes, cozy Irish hotels with masculine hunting decor and a roaring fire…. you don’t normally think of crazy Alice in Wonderland decor or lamps shaped like designer hats! Well, this summer’s research trips here in Ireland have blown away some of the stereotypes we had about luxury hotels in Ireland. And we are excited to include these two new hotels located on opposite sides of the country:
G Hotel, Galway
Located just outside the city center of this midsize Irish city known for its arts festival, the fairly generic and bland glass facade (the outside kind of looks like a car dealership!), disguises the truly FABULOUS interior of the G. This hotel is very special and you won’t want to leave. Once you enter you could spend the whole day inside, just in their award winning spa (a must if its a drab, gray day). The hotel was designed by famed couture hat designer Philip Treacy (based in London but originally from Galway) and is a treat on the eye. There are various salons and color schemes, a restaurant with a Michelin starred consulting chef Stefan Matz (who also looks after stunning sister hotel the beautiful Ashford Castle in Mayo county further north), a sumptuous Spa (products are Espa and all spa staff train in London at headquarters for Espa). Our favorite room at The G is without a doubt their outrageous Linda Evangelista Suite (Philip Treacy has dedicated this room to his top model friend), over 1500 square feet with a roofed in terrace overlooking the lough. A faux zebra trophy looks onto a sumptuously designed room, and the bathtub is a specimen of design in itself. G Hotel web
Dylan Hotel, Dublin
Located just over the Baggot street bridge, and steps from one of our favorite restaurants in Ireland, Michelin starred L’ Ecrivain, the beautiful Dylan hotel boats both a stunning interior (completely modern and designer) and a wonderful historic facade (it’s located in the converted royal hospital’s nurse’s home) . While many design hotels are minimalist and can be quite cold, the Dylan is full of luscious rich colors (eggplant, burgundy, silver and gold, etc) and textures (crushed velvet, silk, etc). Rooms are just wonderful with supremely comfortable beds, a range of high end bath products in the bathroom, lots of small touches like lighting around the bed so you don’t trip on the way to the bathroom at night, fresh flowers, CDs in the room, etc. The staff are top class and the candlelit terrace bar and indoor cocktail bar are simply THE place to meet in Dublin. Definitely one of the best hotels we have found lately and can’t wait to send you here! Dylan Hotel web
For the last few weeks we have been on the road, burning rubber across the island to find luxurious country retreats and historic hotels. We visited all kinds of wonderful places from Design Hotels (see our favorite designer hotels here), Country Guest Houses, Manor Homes and Palatial Estates and of course, some Irish castles!
Here is a list of our top picks which we will be including in our new private chauffeured gourmet tours in Ireland.
BEST MANOR HOTEL-ADARE MANOR
Adare Manor is one of the most stunning properties we have see in Europe! Built in the early 1800’s for the 2nd Earl of Dunraven and his wife, Lady Caroline Wyndham, it is a beautiful Victorian Gothic mansion (plenty of bay windows, gargoyles, etc) with a few quirks (for example there are 52 chimneys- one for every week of the year). The ivy clad manor rests in an absolutely gorgeous estate of more than 800 acres of manicured gardens (with a beautiful Cedar of Lebanon), parkland and a river flowing around the hotel. Brown trout can even be fished year round on site, Adare Manor has a private gillie for guests. Adare Manor is also known by golfers for its 18 Hole Championship Golf Course (which regularly hosts the Irish Open) designed by the mythical Robert Trent Jones Senior. Their Manor Oakroom Restaurant run by head chef Mark Donahue is high end traditional cuisine with a discreet creative twist. When we visited this past weekend dishes on the tasting menu included Roast Atlantic Scallops with a thermidore glaze of endives and red onions; roast quail and crisp air-dried Irish pork; and roast breast of Guinea Fowl filled with foie gras mousse. The atmosphere in the dining room is romantic with its original oak panels, high ceilings, and flickering candles. Adare Manor web
BEST CASTLE HOTEL- DROMOLAND CASTLE
Our expectations were not extremely high, as while visiting other properties we had found that many castle hotels live off their name, similar to some of the Paradors in Spain, and rooms tended to be dated and tired. What a surprise when we arrived! Not all hotels have a history dating back to the 11th century and can claim to be the ancestral home of one of the few Royal Gaelic families (Brian Boru, the High King of Ireland). The list of famous guests is long and distinguished including the last few American presidents and a host of celebrities. This gorgeous property is located in the west of Ireland, about an hour south of Galway and two hours northwest of Cork, and a few minutes drive from Shannon airport. It stretches out over 400 acres of lush parkland with a soft rolling golf course (JB Carr & Ron Kirby), sparkling lake (complete with ducks) and beautiful tree lined paths. High Tea is served from 3-5PM in elegant salons that wind around the first floor of the castle. We loved the Earl of Thomond dining room, very atmospheric and pretty and serving haute Irish cuisine (think Roast Monkfish with black pudding risotto and langoustine & asparagus salad). The latest novelty at Dromoland is a fabulous spa, using the Irish - Voya- line of products whose products are made with an organic seaweed base. Treatments could include a - Tangle Me Up- seaweed body wrap for example. Love this place. Dromoland Castle web
BEST GARDENS- BANTRY HOUSE
Wow, location location location. Mama mia, this hotel (really a luxurious B&B) is set in an absolutely idyllic spot. Located in cute Bantry in West Cork, you drive in from the coast about a kilometer through thick woodland before arriving to the Bantry House, surrounded by luxuriant gardens. We arrived late and the gracious owner himself welcomed us. We later found out that Mr. White is the actual descendant of the original owners who had the mansion built in the 1700’s! Our very pretty room faced the formal gardens and had the most comfortable bed I have slept in I think in years! There is an old fashioned billiards room with an honor bar and all kinds of games from scrabble to Mahjong, and an adjoining salon with cozy fire. Gin Tonics beside the fire after a walk in the gardens are a must. We had an informal dinner at their little cafe style bistro but for finer dining head to O’Connors (fine seafood restaurant). The Bantry House, while not ultra luxurious, is one of the most unique places we have stayed, and the views from the gardens over the bay are simply priceless. Bantry House web
BEST LUXURY HISTORIC HOTEL WITH SPA- THE PARK, KENMARE
Kenmare is one of the cutest little gourmet villages of southern Ireland and is located in the southwest in the Kerry region. And the much loved Park Hotel is still gorgeous, run by some of the best hospitality professionals we have had the pleasure of meeting. This Victorian landmark hotel faces the Kenmare Bay and houses what is considered to be one of the best spas in Ireland if not Europe. The Samas spa is a real experience and is part of the Park experience. Some of the Samas rituals include a basalt hot stone therapy and the 2 hour ladies ritual (with deep facial cleansing and hypnotic acupressure massage). The beautiful and peaceful location of The Park in this beautiful corner of Kerry, lends itself to a stay focused on relaxation and indeed many guests enjoy simple pleasures like yoga and jogging, followed by cocktails and fine dining in their delicious formal dining room, or head to Kenmare to local gems like Packies.
BEST LUXURY HOTEL FOR FISHING- SHEEN FALLS, KENMARE
Also in Kenmare is the extremely comfortable Sheen Falls Lodge property, which we also loved for its dramatic riverside location, services, and superb staff. The Danish owners revamped a historic hunting lodge dating back to the 1600’s, although most of the hotel is (tastefully) new. This pampering hotel is a member of Relais & Chateaux, and understands luxury and how to spoil its guests. The hotel will organize a champagne picnic served by the lake after a scenic drive in a vintage Buick dating to the 1930’s for example. Or for our wine loving clients, a private wine tasting in their impressive cellar with their knowledgeable and friendly sommelier. The suites here are great and overlook the cascading waterfalls, and they have thought of everything. A major focus at the Sheen Falls is on fishing and they are very proud of their private gillie who will also act as private river guide. Sheen Falls Lodge web
BEST COUNTRY HIDEAWAY- CARRIG HOUSE
We had the best dinner I think we have had in over a year here at this adorable tiny country house on Caragh Lake in Kerry. Simple dishes like baby lamb chops and roast turbot were cooked to perfection and out of this world!!! This converted 19th century hunting lodge is located in a hidden corner of tiny Caragh Lake near the Ring of Kerry and is very romantic and cozy. While we stayed here in summer, it would be great to go back in winter and just relax in front of the fire and enjoy long walks and gorgeous dinners with brandies to follow in the front salon. The room to go for is definitely their presidential suite with views opening onto the lake, and a delicious bed they personally brought over from India. Carrig House web
ANOTHER GREAT COUNTRY HOUSE FOR DINING- BALLYMALOE HOUSE
The Allen family are the most famous culinary family in Ireland. Darina Allen is the Julia Childs of Ireland and Rachel is a celebrity TV chef- both sell bucket loads of cookbooks and of course they offer those world famous cooking demonstrations and professional classes nearby at their organic farm and cookery school. The house is where foodies can overnight (decor is simple country chic) and above all, eat! The beautiful dining room is most atmospheric at night with a roaring fire, and the food here is all sourced locally (much of it from their own farm) and daily. We enjoyed an excellent lunch here just a few days ago, and can definitely sing their praises. We tried mackerel fished from Ballycotton (a few miles down the road), tender organic steak and free range organic chicken (both from their own farm) in a delicate tarragon sauce- simple and very, very good. We look forward to sending you here and to our other favorite corners of Ireland! Ballymaloe House web
Wine Tours in Ireland? Not exactly! And Ireland may not be the first country that springs to mind when you think of a gourmet vacation. However we have noticed a massive shift towards food awareness and artisan production (cheese, smokehouses, rare whiskeys, etc) in Ireland in the last few years (Des is Irish and we visit Ireland regularly). One of Slow Food’s most active chapters is Ireland, farmers markets have been rejuvenated in many towns, gourmet festivals are sprouting up like mushrooms and cooking classes are all the rage. Pair all of this with huge investments for renovations of historic manor homes and hotels taking place throughout Ireland and it didn’t take us long to decide that Ireland could be a very interesting location for our food and wine loving clients.
So here we are, in Cork, Ireland for the summer, doing research trips for the best part of 6 weeks to visit whiskey distilleries, famous and up and coming restaurants, castles, and new stylish boutique hotels, tidy towns and fishing villages to find the creme de la creme suppliers for our new tours. Keep an eye out for our site inspection notes which will be posted throughout the summer! Oh, and we did actually here rumors of wine being made somewhere near Kinsale, more on that later….
The Spanish southwestern region of Extremadura is one of our most cherished, and we love going back often to enjoy the historic villages, breathtaking Jerte Valley (famous for its Cherry Blossoms) and for eating well. This region is off the beaten tracks for many foreigners and is refreshingly free of the tourist crowds. There are some truly fantastic small historic towns, our favorites being Trujillo and Cacereres. Extremadura produces a wide range of gourmet products from cheeses (Torta del Casar,Queso Ibores, Queso de la Serena, etc) to smoked paprika (Pimentón) to the famed Jerte cherries and yes, even wines (the up and coming appellation is Ribera del Guadiana).
Pimentón-This essential ingredient in any Spanish kitchen, paprika, is made with smoked peppers and can be dulce (sweet) or picante (spicy). The texture is like a velvety powder and the color is blood red. It is used in a variety of stews, can be used to spice up chorizo, is a delicious addition to soupy potatos (like patatas a la riojana) and of course is doused in many local recipes in Extremadura like the Caldereta de Extremadura (slow cooked and stewed lamb). Pimentón is produced in a variety of villages such as Jarandilla de la Vera (with its beautiful Parador). Here is a list of Pimentón de la Vera producers.
Torta del Casar- This heavenly cheese is made with organic sheep´s milk and is one of the most tantalizing gourmet goodies in the WORLD. The cheese is circular and the inside is soft, semi liquid and has an almost melted texture. It is usually served with crackers or bread, and can be topped with caramelized onions, chutney or relish or as a sauce on solomillo steak. Production of Torta del Casar in Extremadura is thankfully still on a small and artisan basis and the quality is ultra high.
WHAT TO DO IN EXTREMADURA- The beautiful towns of Trujillo and Cáceres are a must and would be the best bases. The town of Merida is not particularly nice at all, but the Roman theater and Archaeological museum are fantastic for history buffs.
WHEN TO GO- Trujillo holds the big cheese festival- Feria Nacional del Queso- in early May, fun for gourmets. Spring is the best time to see the spectacular cherry blossoms in the Jerte Valley. Check out the Theatre Festival at the outdoor Ancient Roman amphitheater of Merida from June to August Autumn and winter are romantic in the historic castle towns, with cozy restaurants, chilly nights and bright sunny days.
WHERE TO STAY- We love the beautiful recently restored palace in Trujillo NH Palacio de Santa Marta, an absolutely stylish gem in a dramatic historic setting. In the countryside of southern Extremadura, the luxury Rocamador is a destination hotel that attracts an eclectic mix of Spanish celebrities, socialites and artists.
WHERE TO EAT- For atmosphere (medieval tower) and great food, the Torre de Sande in Caceres is a must. Also in Caceres the Atrio restaurant, located in a weird modern part of this medieval city, won the best wine list in Spain by Wine Spectator. While we had a mixed experience regarding wine service due to an inexperienced and unfortunately rude waiter, the food is really amazing and the owners are very attentive and come out to greet clients after the dinner. The restaurant in Monasterio Rocamador is highly recommended, as is Altair in Merida.
Portugal´s romantic wine region of Alentejo is a huge area stretching north to south, characterized by its soft rolling hills, wild beaches, cork forests and olive groves. Punctuating the landscape are an array of Arabic castles and medieval towns in surprisingly amazing condition. Alentejo is a beautiful region seemingly trapped in time and due to the history of the last hundred years (when most people abandoned the countryside for the cities), it is not marred by the nasty architecture or the 1960´s and 70´s that you find in other regions. It really does look like it must have centuries ago, and it supremely atmospheric. The most northern main town is Portalegre and in the south, Beja. The cultural epicenter of Alentejo is Évora, a Unesco heritage protected town with a whitewashed historic center, numerous stunning churches and treasures, and an Ancient Roman Temple, dedicated to the goddess Diana. Driving around the region you will pass gentle hills and miles and miles of cork forests, as well as dry arid landscapes that look look like a scene in the movie “Out of Africa”.
Alentejo is also the region making Portugal´s most exciting dry wines, real knockouts. Expect “monster reds” and rich, heavy whites. Portuguese grapes used in Alentejo include (WHITE) Arinto and Antao Vaz, and (RED) Alicante Bouschet, Aragones and Alfrocheiro. Syrah and Cabernet Sauvignon, international varietals, are also widely used. Leading estates include the superb Cortes de Cima, the one-and-only Esporão (who apart from excellent wines make amazing olive oil and cheese), Quinta do Carmo (owned by Bordeaux´s Rothschilds), Joao Portugal Ramos, Herdade das Servas, beautiful Monte da Ravasqueira, the lovely estate of Monte Seis Reis, and the fabulous Tapada dos Colheiros. Alentejo has always had quite a massive amount of international investment and foreign flying winemakers and recent projects and additions include Sonho Lusitano´s Richard Mayson (ex- wine writer for Decanter magazine); Australian Alison Gomes at Azamor; and Quinta do Zambujeiro (owned by Emil Stricker, a Swissman based in Singapore, how´s that for international??)
WHAT TO DO- Visit wine estates and do some touring and tasting (some are open to the general public if you book the visit beforehand) or contact us if you would like a private luxury chauffeured tour; stay a few nights in Évora and visit the outrageous and creepy Capela dos Ossos (Bones Chapel), taste some vinho in the enoteca right next door to the Pousada, and soak up the historic atmosphere; Don´t miss beautiful Marvão (one of our favorite places in Portugal!) with its castle and breathtaking views over the valley (there is a colony of eagles here); the whitewashed hamlet of Estremoz, with its many wineries; the ancient Jewish town of Castelo do Vide; the medieval castle in Évoramonte; the olive oil museum and castle in Moura; learn how to cook traditional Alentejo cuisine at the Refugio da Vila.
To visualize the region, here is a video (in Portuguese) that features top winery Esporão (an interview with the winemaker), and some great photography of this wine estate, the wine country and Alentejo
WHERE TO STAY- Without a doubt, the best place to stay is the gorgeous, luxurious 5* Convento do Espinheiro in Évora with a terrific restaurant, spa and sprawling country grounds; for unbelievable romance, lucury and escaping from it all (really, as this hotel is in the middle of nowhere!), the Pousada Flor de Rosa in Crato is exquisite;
WHERE TO EAT- “Must Eats” include the Restaurante Adega do Isaías in Estremoz, rustic, wonderful and “the” place for pork; the wonderful refined restaurant at the Esporão wine estate, Divinus restaurant at the Convento do Espinheiro hotel in Évora; for non nonsense trad cooking, Restaurante Sever in Marvao. Typical local dishes include Carne de Porco à Alentejana (pork with clams and cilantro) and “Migas” (breadcrumbs fried with chourizo. Check out info on Alentejo gastronomy here.
We have long loved the Aeolian Islands in Sicily for their dramatic beauty and heart-stopping scenery including their volcanoes “fireworks shows”. It was a recent research trip to these islands again, where we discovered that apart from stunning beauty and some of our favorite luxury hotels, they are also home to some of Sicily´s most interesting wines!
The Isole Aeoli, as they are know in Italian, are comprised of a string of islands located off the northeast coast of Sicily-Alicudi (a mere two square miles big) , Filicudi, Salina (home to some of the flagship wineries and also famed for its capers) , Panarea (a tiny exclusive isle that receives celebrities and VIPs to its hip hotels), the microscopic Basiluzzo islet, Stromboli (immortalized in the Ingrid Bergman film, directed by Roberto Rossellini), Lipari (the most lively and populated island) and Vulcano (the closest island to the Sicily). The islands are Unesco protected and are one of the most important locations in the world for volcano scientists.
Now to the wine…. the wine that has firmly placed itself in the hearts and minds of wine lovers is the delicately sweet Passito wine made in the Malvasia delle Lipari appellation. This rare dessert wine is made by leaving ripe grapes on bamboo mats in the sun for nearly 2 weeks and allowing the sugars to concentrate before then pressing them and leaving them to slow ferment in casks. The result is an elixir sweet wine with just enough refreshing acidity, and typical flavors would include dried apricots, marmalade and dried figs. Production is small and the wine is highly prized.
The most famed wine producer in the Aeolian Islands has to be Hauner (whose founder Carlo, now passed away, is credited with bringing this wine an almost cult status and who was actually from Brescia, land of Franciacorta) . The Hauner Passito is colorfully described by the Italian wine bible Gambero Rosso as “flaunting nuances of Mediterranean scrubland and delicious echoes of candied citrus”. Other small boutique wine producers in Salina include Virgona, Marchetta and Giona. Many Sicilian wineries located in other regions, from Etna to Marsala, are producing small amounts of the Passito wines such as the historic Colosi, Florio, Barone di Villagrande, and Tasca d´Almerita who also have a luxurious little hotel in their vineyards. Grapes cultivated in the islands (mainly Salina) include (WHITE) Insolia, Grecanico, Malvasia, Cataratto, Grillo, and (RED) Nero D’avola, Nerello Mascalese, Calabrese, Corinto Nero and Sangiovese. The grapes used for the Passito wines include up to 95% Malvasia di Lipari and up to 5% Corinto Nero.
WINE TOURS- Wine Tourism is not established for non Italian speakers and the nature of the wineries in the Aeolian Islands is small and often family run. You can try to contact the cellars on your own through the Consorzio or for private chauffeured luxury tours, contact us. Apart from wineries, you can taste the Aeolian wines at a number of wine shops (enotecas) and outstanding seafood restaurants, especially in Lipari and Salina.
WHAT TO SEE- The best way to visit the Aeolian Islands is by private boat, as there are so many grottos, isolated beaches and coves only reachable by sea. There are also numerous public boats and ferries taking you to the main harbors of the islands. The Sicilian port of Milazzo is where you will depart for the islands. Salina- on this green island, you can visit wine estates, sleep in the vineyards, take walks from the harbor up to the island´s other hamlets and the Spiaggia di Pollara is a beautiful beach with its own bay; Lipari has a charmng harbor, an 11th century Norman cathedral and an archeological museum. Also visit the Belvedere Quattrocchi (Four Eyes) viewpoint and the Aquacalda beach. Vulcano is named after the Roman God of Fire and Metalworking, and the island has three volcanic craters which you can climb as well as a volcanic mudbath, natural pool and thermal baths, not to mention blacksand beaches. Panarea is for luxury and relaxation. Stromboli has an active volcanic crater and a gorgeous craggy coastline. You can visit the Vulcanological Observatory and take a nighttime boat excursion to see the “Sciara del Fuoco”, and see lava exploding out into the sea!
WHERE TO STAY- The Aeolian Islands contain some fabulous small boutique hotels and attracts an international jet set every summer. See where Il Postino was filmed and where their cast stayed at the charming Hotel Signum in Salina. Also in Salina is the romantic new wine resort Capofaro, owned by the prestigious Tasca d´Almerita winery. The Hotel Raya in exquisite Panarea is a haven for design lovers and many famous visitors flock here for its exclusive hideaway atmosphere. Another luxurious little hotel is the Quartara with such original Sicilian finishings as Lava stone flooring!
Cured ham has been recognized for its health properties since the Antiquities. Hipocrates himself recommended patients to “eat more ham”. Oleic acid is the main fat component in cured hams, a “Good Cholesterol” compound also found in Olive Oil. In Southern Europe, small but regular (almost daily) amounts of ham form part of the Mediterranean Diet. While Italian Prosciutto and other hams are well known outside of Italy, Spanish “Jamón” (artisan cured hams) is an expensive delicacy that has been until relatively recently a best-kept secret in Spain. However, the secret is out and Jamón is increasingly treasured by foodies all over the world. There are two main categories of Jamón- the Iberian Ham (JamónIbérico) and Mountain Ham (Jamón Serrano). Both are cured hams made by salting (with Sal de Mar) and hang drying in cellars with natural ventilation for over a year. Serrano is aged usually for a year and a half while the much more exclusive and expensive Ibérico is aged up to 3 years. There are a range of native breeds of pig such as the Cerdo Ibérico whose hams are often called “Pata Negra” after their black hoofs. Jamón Ibérico represents a fraction of the ham production in Spain, and has different sub categories of ultra high quality sublime hams.
BEST JAMÓN- The most glorious and hedonistic ham of all in our opinion is the Jamón de Bellota, a type of Ibérico. It is made by allowing the pigs to munch and “pig out” on acorns that fall from the oak trees on the peaceful “Dehesas” (the name of the type of grassland meadows where the Iberian pigs graze, located all over central and Southern Spain such as Extremadura, Salamanca,Huelva, Sevilla Córdoba, and Castilla La Mancha ). The paper thinly sliced Bellota melts in your mouth literally and can be served as a “tapa” or “pintxo”, accompanied by a fine Jerez wine like the nutty Amontillado.
HOW TO SERVE JÁMON- the ham leg (and hoof) is placed into a “jamonero”, a base that sits on the counter (seen in virtually all good bars and restaurants in Spain, as well as private homes). Then, the real art form, is the slicing of the ham. It must be by hand with an extra sharp knife and sliced as thinly as possible. The art of cutting ham is seen in Spain as serious as the art of cooking or wine, and “ham slicers” are as highly regarded as top sommeliers. Spain Gourmet magazine recently published a fascinating article about the “Ham Slicer Extraordinaire” world champion Florencio Sanchidrián who has sliced for dignitaries and celebrities as varied as Robert Dinero, Pope John Paul II and of course the King of Spain, Juan Carlos- a well known gourmet and lover of the “Buena Vida” (the good life).
In Sicily´s Baroque Val di Noto you´ll discover the tiny town of Modica. Modica is on the map for worldwide foodies as apart from being a beguiling village already worthy of a visit, it is also home to one of the best chocolate companies in Italy (a country with an amazing chocolate tradition), the beloved L’Antica Dolceria Bonajuto. We traveled to Modica ourselves this past April to check it out, and did we ever fall in love!
Modica is one of the most special little romantic corners of Sicily with its abundance of Baroque Churches and Palaces, and pretty squares lines with palm trees. Highlights would include the magnificent Duomo (di San Giorgio), the Chiesa di San Pietro (with its stunning intricately designed ceiling) and countless chapels, churches, monasteries and private palazzos, cobblestoned narrow walkways… Modica is said to have 100 churches! Plan on spending at least a day here, to allow for time for chocolate tasting, sightseeing and fine dining at the superb La Gazza Ladra. Now, about the chocolate…..
L’Antica Dolceria Bonajuto is a legend. The story dates back to 1880 when founder Francesco Bonajuto established the little shop as a patisserie and dessert shop. he used ancient Spanish chocolate recipes brought to Sicily centuries before that in turn had been gleened from Ancient Aztec recipes (”Xocòatl azteca”). Today, this particular chocolate maker has a major cult following and some of their handmade products include:”Cioccolato all Cannella ed alla Vangilia” (Vanilla and Cinnamon Chocolate), Arabian Orange “Torrone”, ´Mpanatigghi biscotti, delicious Nucatoli (with dried figs), and oh, so much more! Another added element that we love about Bonajuto is that they are an “ethical” chocolate producer.
Here is a Video (in Italian) about L’Antica Dolceria Bonajuto-
Another great chocolate producer in Modica is the Laboratorio Dolciario Artigianale Don Giuseppe Puglisi, located on the Via de Naro. They make an excellent range of artisan products, all lovingly packed in gift boxes. Apart from the now classic Cioccolata Modicana, they also make ‘Mpanatigghie, and tasty “Savoy Sweets (”Dolce Savoia”) with almonds and chocolate.
WINE TASTING-The wine country in Sicily is varied and rich and you could easily spend three weeks visiting all the different regions. Near Modica you have the Cerasuolo di Vittoria appellation with well loved wine estates like Cos and lesser know delightful gems like Occhipinti. There are vineyards scattered all over the southeast from Noto to Syracuse and further north at Mount Etna. The Aeolian Islands off the northeastern coast are gorgeous and home to the Malvasia delle Lipari appellation as well as a beautiful wine hotel. Western Sicily then is famous for Marsala, and there are prestigious estates located throughout the western half of the island like the Planeta “contrada” in Sambuca di Sicilia and Tasca d´Almerita.
WHEN TO GO- summer is high season in Sicily and HOT, so best months would be May, June, September and October. Spring is also lovely as wild flowers fill the valleys and there are some colorful festivities around Easter time.
WHERE TO STAY- If you want to be right in Modica, the cute Orangerie is a cozy informal B&B. The Palazzo Failla is a nice historic 4* and the Villa Cannizzo is a pretty 3 * set in the countryside in a recently restored villa. For ultra luxury (and included in our wine tours) is the Eremo della Giubliana near Ragusa.
WHERE TO DINE- The “not to miss” ristorante of Modica is La Gazza Ladra, located inside the elegant Palazzo Failla. The Torre d ´Oriente is atmopsheric and sophisticated.
