
Madeira: The Fortified Wine That Defies Time
June 9, 2025
Explore the rich flavors of Madeira wine, from fig to caramel, and discover its exceptional longevity and character.
By: Barnaby Eales / Last updated: September 19, 2025
The word for pairing in Portuguese is harmonização, fitting for a country where broad wine styles and abundant native grapes ensure a wine for every dish: Vinho Verde whites, regional Lisbon wines, fuller reds from the Douro, Dao, Alentejo, and Bairrada, plus iconic fortified Port, Madeira, and Setubal.
A good rule of thumb is to pair regional wines with local foods: Atlantic seafood with coastal whites, inland meats with bolder reds, fortified wines with cheese, dessert, or as an aperitif. Yet, unexpected matches appear—such as Algarve fish with northern whites—especially as Portuguese cuisine evolves in modern menus. Lighter dishes pair well with brighter whites and rosés; meanwhile, fine sparkling wines and Palhete wines are experiencing a resurgence. Portugal’s indigenous grapes, known for acidity and flavor complexity, make for consistent harmonisation.
An aperitif can be a simple, yet round and refreshing Portuguese white wine, typically made from a blend of native varieties or single-varietal wines, such as Arinto (known for its high acidity levels) and the aromatic Loureiro, which has gained prominence in recent years. My current go-to aperitif wine is the scintillating Alboroque white wine (a blend of Arinto and Fernao Pires) made by Terra Larga, in Salvatorre de Magos, near Lisbon.
Aperitif twist: When in Porto, I often find myself overlooking the Douro River, sipping on White Port & Tonic (“Portonic”). Served with lemon on ice, accompanied by olives and almonds, Portonic is a fairly ubiquitous choice in Porto; it’s increasingly popular partly because Port has a lower alcohol level than spirits, which is something to consider if you are going to drink wine with food dishes, after the aperitif.
Beirão: Served throughout the country as both an apéritif and a digestif, Portugal’s most popular liqueur is crafted from a secret recipe that combines double distillation of 13 herbs with the maceration of herbs, seeds, and spices.
Ginjinha: a punchy sour cherry liquor made in villages like Obidos near Lisbon.
Moscatel de Setubal: With its fragrant, citrusy sweetness, it is a classic choice.
At the 1828 restaurant of the World of Wine complex in Gaia, overlooking Porto from across the Douro River, our sommelier paired the Vertice traditional method 2012 with a trio of oysters. The acidity and texture of the wine matched the iodine and salinity of the oysters. Dry Portuguese sparkling wine, known as Espumante, and oysters are both enjoying a renaissance.
Sparkling wine companies are increasing production, and fine, age-worthy traditional method sparkling brut and rosé brut, such as the 2019 Murganheira, are now often served by the glass at reasonable prices.
Dry Espumante: This is a superb sparkling wine made in the traditional method and served with canapés (like cod croquettes, pasteis de bacalhau, oysters, queijo fresco – light fresh cheese). Growers harvest early to make Espumante with Bairrada producing two-thirds of Portugal’s sparkling wine, the preferred wine pairing for the famous regional dish, Leitōes (suckling pig).
Bairrada: The region begins by the sea at Aveiro, a city known for its canals and boats, often referred to as the “Venice of Portugal.” The sea here is one of Portugal’s five oyster farming areas (Aveiro, Sado, Mira, Alvor, and Ria Formosa). Most Portuguese oysters are actually exported to France, but like Portuguese sparkling wine, there’s now a growing appetite for them locally.
With some vineyards planted on limestone soils, Bairrada Espumante is often made with blends of local white grapes. Yet the red grape Baga, used to make sparkling wine with minerality and fine texture, is, of course, the region’s star grape, featured in blends and used to produce elegant rosé fizz, such as that of Filipa Pato.
Távora-Varosa: This is a high-altitude vineyard area in the eastern Douro. Portugal’s first PDO (Protected Designation of Origin, also called DOC—Denominação de Origem Controlada) for sparkling wine was established here in 1989. These wines have high acidity and pair well with oysters, since these shellfish need light, precise wines. Zesty, seafood-friendly sparkling wines, known as Vinho Verde Espumante, are also made in the Vinho Verde region.
Read more about Portuguese Sparkling Wine
Portuguese white wines are typically blends of grapes rather than single-varietal, giving producers more options. However, the popularity of single-varietal Alvarinho has led to more plantings in Vinho Verde beyond its historic homeland in Monção e Melgaço, where some of the finest Alvarinho wines are produced. Unoaked expressions are paired with sardines and salads. Vinho Verde Loureiro, increasingly in vogue, is a more aromatic grape that pairs well with lighter dishes.
Main producing regions: Azores, Bucelas, Lisbon, and Minho (Vinho Verde)
Main producing regions: Alentejo, Bairrada, Dão, Douro, and Lisbon.
Main producing regions: Alentejo, Dão, Douro, and Lisbon.
Main producing regions: Alentejo, Dão, Douro, Bairrada, and Lisboa
Pairing with Light-Bodied Red Wines
Main producing regions: Algarve, Bairrada, Dão, and Lisboa/Setúbal
Main producing regions: Alentejo, Bairrada, Dão, Douro, and Lisbon
Pairing with Full-Bodied Red Wines
Main producing regions: Alentejo, Bairrada, and Douro.
Alongside whites, rosés, and reds, Portugal has revived unique historic styles — Palhete and Clarete — that sit somewhere between a red and rosé, offering fresh, versatile pairings for classic dishes like sardines and tomato rice.
Officially, under Portuguese wine law reforms of 2017, Clarete and Palhete are defined as follows:
Grilled fresh sardines are one of the most typical dishes, paired with fresh, bright white wines from Northern Portugal. However, they are often paired with light, slightly chilled reds from Vinho Verde, which complement the oily, fatty nature of sardines. Yet now in vogue are the Palhete and Clarete wines – made from co-fermented red and white grapes, sourced from field blends. (Traditionally, Portuguese vineyards contained a mixture of grape varieties, often planted so intermingled that growers themselves might not even be able to identify every variety present.
Like the increase in sparkling wine production, Portuguese producers have rekindled the ancient tradition of Palhete and Clarete wines – these styles are low in alcohol and tannin, with relatively high acidity, making them wines to pair with Sardines and contemporary light dishes.
Red grapes destined for Clarete or Palhete wines are often harvested earlier than for classic big red Portuguese wines. To avoid extracting green or bitter notes from these early-picked grapes, which are picked before full phenolic ripeness, low extraction is crucial. Tannins are barely perceptible, allowing the fruit to take center stage in the wine. Producers tend to combine them with tomato seafood rice, or grilled Piri-Piri prawns (Piri-Piri being a sauce made from chili peppers originating from Africa). With their bright, crunchy acidity, these wines pair perfectly with tomato dishes, salads, and pizza.
Icons: The mountain-grown Serra da Estrela (sheep, oozy cheese) from the Dão region is Portugal’s most iconic cheese, often paired with a 10-year-old Tawny Port or an aged, barrel-fermented white wine.
Other classics: Azeitão (sheep, creamy) and São Jorge (Azores, firmer, Cheddar-like).
Best served with citrus fruit-based desserts – orange, lemon (tarts), mandarin, orange-peel, and toffee tones. Christmas pudding, cake, tiramisu, and banoffee pie.
On the Atlantic seaboard of Portugal, there may be nothing finer than enjoying the simplicity of uber-fresh fish and seafood grilled in front of you outside on the terraces of restaurants, served with the fine white, palhete, red, and sparkling wines. Exquisite traditional meat dishes are served with elegant, robust red wines, and more vegetarian options are available. The gastronomy of Portugal, once renowned for its rice and cod dishes, has evolved to incorporate contemporary, smaller dishes influenced by Asia, Brazil, Africa, and Europe, offering a broad range of textures.
Likewise, a new generation of producers are making increasingly interesting regional wines, diverse in style. Producers can draw on a vast bank of more than 250 native grape varieties (appropriate for adapting to climate change) for dishes, making Portugal an increasingly enticing place to visit in terms of harmonious food and wine pairing.
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