Siena Travel Guide

Siena is one of Italy’s most captivating cities, concentrating on medieval and gothic architecture and charming small-town appeal. Located in Tuscany, about an hour south of Florence, Siena offers a treasure trove of art and architecture to the culture vulture and fabulous food and wine for gourmet travelers.

Siena has a fascinating history. Like Rome, Siena has a foundation shrouded in legend. It’s said that the son of Remus, Senius, founded Siena. You will see references to the she-wolf nursing Romulus and Remus all around Siena. Historians theorize that the Etruscans founded the city. The Etruscans were an advanced culture in Italy that preceded the Romans. Archaeologists have found that the Etruscans used irrigation, sewage, and drainage systems before the Romans. The “cloaca maxima, “great sewer” of Rome, is Etruscan. The first Roman roads, diversion channels, and drainage systems were Etruscan. Interestingly, the Etruscans are also credited with introducing the architectural arch (used for bridges, gates, and vaulted alleyways).

After the Etruscans, the Romans turned Siena into a military post and called the colony Saenna Julia. The settlement disappeared, and some historians think Siena may have been ruled by invading Gauls for a short period. Christianity was firmly rooted in Siena by the 4th century, and the Lombard Kings invaded Tuscany and Siena in the 6th century. Siena became a flourishing trading center under Lombard’s rule as it was on the main trade route and pilgrimage route to Rome from the North. The Via Francigena was a major road built during this period, linking Rome to France.

The Lombards surrendered to Charlemagne (King of the Franks, who later became the Holy Roman Emperor) in the 8th century, and the Franks briefly ruled Siena and quickly married into the aristocracy. The clergy took over for the next few centuries, and Siena became deeply religious. Siena finally declared itself free from Episcopal control in the 12th century. Over time, the city became extremely prosperous due to new industries such as money lending and the emerging wool trade. The beautiful Duomo Cathedral was built in the 1100s, and the graceful Piazza del Campo (the main square in Siena) became the central meeting point for its inhabitants. Markets and sporting events were held, and the beautiful Gothic Palazzo Pubblico and the Torre del Mangia were built in the square.

The 12th century also began a long-term economic and political rivalry with Florence as both cities rose in importance. Siena was predominantly Ghibelline (supporters of the Holy Roman Emperor), while Florence was dominated by the Guelphs (supporters of the pope), and the two cities had constant battles. One famous battle was in 1260 at Montaperti, where the Sienese crushed the Florentines in one of the bloodiest battles in medieval history. Dante wrote about the battle in the Divine Comedy. Even today, at sporting events between Siena and Florence, the Sienese chant “Remember Montaperti!”

The Black Death arrived in 1348 and devastated Siena, decimating its population. The following two centuries were relatively stagnant for Siena’s importance as it was bogged down with political instability and constant fighting. Despite this, trade and commerce continued, and the famous bank of Monte dei Paschi di Siena was founded in 1472 (and still exists today). The Republic of Siena finally surrendered to Florentine Cosimo de Medici in the late 1500s and was incorporated into the Grand Duchy of Tuscany. In 1861, Siena and the rest of Tuscany were absorbed into the newly formed Kingdom of Italy.

Today, Siena lives off finance and tourism and is one of the prettiest and most fascinating Italian cities to visit. It is also a good hub and close to the wine country of Montalcino, Montepulciano, and Chianti, not to mention endless beautiful medieval hamlets and towns such as San Gimignano, Volterra, and Monteriggioni.