Chianti Classico Wine Region Guide

Geography and terroir

Chianti Classico is made in the hills between Florence and Siena: a mosaic of vineyards planted to indigenous and French grape varieties. They bask in the region’s agreeable Mediterranean climate, characterized by long, warm summers and relatively mild winters. In the best vintages, red and white grapes will achieve full ripeness relatively easily, producing aromatically expressive and fruit-forward wines. Indeed, very hot weather has been the norm in recent years, so the main concern has been excessive sugar rather than poor ripeness!

However, there are significant variations in aspect and elevation in Chianti Classico: vineyards can rise to 500 meters above sea level or higher. Historically, it was challenging to ripen the sugars and tannins in the late-ripening, light-colored, high-acid Sangiovese, particularly at these elevations. But, as elsewhere, global warming has engendered a reassessment of the most favored sites in the appellation. The zone’s lower, more protected vineyards, often south-facing, increasingly yield wines at 15% alcohol – totally undesirable. Fortunately, many fine, more balanced red wines are grown at altitudes of around 600 meters, and white wines will thrive even higher than this: barrel-fermented Tuscan Chardonnay is a rising star in central Italy. But Trebbiano Toscano, the workhorse white grape grown in Sangiovese wine country for centuries, is now forbidden in red blends.

The region’s soil varies, but the two more common types are Galestro (a local variant of clay-limestone) and the heavier, more solid Alberese. It is said that Galestro soils are responsible for Chianti’s most concentrated wines, while Alberese is renowned for producing savory reds with a distinct note of wet stone.

Winemaking and regional classifications

Winemaking in Chianti Classico has changed out of all recognition over the past 45 years. When the DOC laws defined Chianti in 1967, they insisted on 10% and allowed up to 30% – far too much – white grapes into Chianti of any style. The result was acidic dross with little merit, best consumed in desperation after the cellar has run dry! Thankfully, the rules were updated in 1996 to allow 100% Sangiovese wines, and adulteration with Trebbiano was finally outlawed in 2006. As a result, Chianti Classico is now a high-quality red made substantially (80-100% of the blend) from low-cropped Sangiovese – a dash of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and/or Canaiolo can improve the wine’s depth and color. Too much, though, can spoil the style. Nevertheless, the days of anemic mouthwash are largely over.

However, adding white grapes – and grossly inflated yields – were only part of the problem. The traditional approach to making Chianti Classico involved a long fermentation and maceration in wooden botti (vats), extracting every available particle of tannin. These astringent concoctions were then matured in Slavonian oak vats for several years, with oxidation helping smooth the rough edges. But all too often, what emerged in your glass was a dry red lacking either flavor or character. It was utterly charmless.

Yet the introduction of French barriques forced a complete change. Shorter macerations yielded a less tannic, more fruity expression of Sangiovese, while maturation in new wood (12-18 months) added another dimension of flavor and complexity. Meanwhile, fermentation (often including a percentage of whole bunches) is now routinely conducted in stainless steel, taking advantage of inbuilt temperature control and greater accuracy. Whether the wine is then aged in barrique (new or otherwise) or in the traditional Slavonian botti depends on the winemaker. Using amphorae and concrete eggs for wine fermentation/ maturation has also become trendy, particularly among younger winemakers.

The lowdown

Tuscany is no different from any other Italian region; several seismic shifts in viticulture, regulatory oversight, and winemaking have occurred over the past few decades. Understanding the importance of these changes will give you a decisive advantage when selecting your favorite wine.

Ironically, the most important development of the 21st century has been the return to grace of a historic wine style. When Antinori released the first vintage of Tignanello in 1971, the Tuscan establishment foresaw an unstoppable revolution: this Sangiovese-Cabernet Sauvignon blend was infinitely superior to anything produced in the region up to that point. To strengthen their cause, Antinori released Solaia a few years later, a Cabernet-dominant red that ages into graceful beauty after ten years in bottle. Within a few years, a rash of copycat brands was being marketed to consumers tired of austerity and astringency. The appellation was in danger of becoming woefully unfashionable while Super Tuscans marched to victory.

But as the character of these rebel wines became increasingly homogenized, producers seized their chance to reinvent Chianti Classico as a fine wine to be taken seriously. Their mission was aided by a welcome change in the regulations and the identification of higher-quality Sangiovese clones; a massive replanting program took place in the 1990s, much to the region’s advantage. The introduction of the Gran Selezione category was another boon for Tuscany – Riservas, meanwhile, now represent about 20% of annual production. Nevertheless, Gran Selezione remains at the top of the pyramid: the wines must contain at least 90% Sangiovese, with up to 10% permitted indigenous red varieties; they must come from estate-owned grapes, be aged for at least 30 months before release, and be sourced from the estate’s vineyards. The best examples can rival any Brunello di Montalcino in structure, complexity, and finesse. And they keep getting better.

This is partly due to a more sensitive aging regime. Maturation in 100% new French oak was the last word in Chianti fashion in the 1980s; wines constructed around the flavor and aroma of new barrique can become monotonous with their glossy tannins and cedar/vanilla bouquet. However, as Chianti Classico has learned from its past mistakes – and taken advice from consultants – most of the clumsy and excessive oak influences have been toned down. Today, Chianti Classico is an expression of grape and terroir, not wood.

Meanwhile, the introduction of the Unità Geografiche Aggiuntive (Additional Geographical Units) has addressed calls for greater terroir stratification in the zone. At present, these 11 geographical units may appear only on Gran Selezione labels, identifying the geographical origin of the grapes rather than an individual vineyard or quality ranking. After many years of soul-searching and debate, Chianti’s confidence has been fully restored.

Chianti Classico gastronomy

In Chianti Classico, food and drink command equal respect in the region’s bucolic landscape, so expect only the freshest seasonal ingredients in the vineyards between Florence and Siena – master butcher Dario Cecchini is something of a celebrity in the village of Panzano. His prized cuts of beef and pork, rubbed with olive oil and fennel seeds, are the stuff of legend in the summer; meat cooked over vine embers has a depth of flavor that cannot be replicated. But there are also the superlative Chianti Classico olive oils, Bistecca Fiorentina, and pici (a type of hand-rolled pasta) to get to grips with. In Tuscany, your food journey never ends.

A Guide to the Gastronomy and Cuisine of Tuscany: Read more