Profile of Bilbao
Bilbao is one of the principal cities in Spain's beautiful Basque Country. Compared to the
aristocratic San Sebastian, Bilbao has always been considered the ugly, industrial
step-sister. It was Spain's most important industrial city, and became quite gritty as a
consequence. Things changed when Canadian born American architect Frank Gehry chose Bilbao
as the site for the magnificently modern and almost space-age Guggenheim museum. The deal
was negotiated between the New York-based Solomon R. Guggenheim Foundation and the Basque
regional government. The result was one of the most impressive architectural achievements
in Europe, and a cultural renaissance in de-industrializing Bilbao. Bilbao suddenly appeared
on the map of culture vultures, and a gust of creativity, commerce and confidence burst into
Bilbao.
The city of Bilbao was founded back in 1300, with the Magna Carta under Don Lopez de Haro.
Before the town was "officially" founded, it had been home to settlements of Normans and
possibly even Romans. Strategically located on the River Nervion, it has been an important
commercial hub throughout the centuries. The industrial era turned Bilbao into one of Spain's
most important cities. Despite wars and invasions (Bilbao was invaded by Napoleon's troops
in the early 1800's and suffered four "Carlista" wars, not to mention the horrific Spanish
Civil War), Bilbao continued to grow and grow. Hard times came upon Bilbao with the changing
nature of industry in the "first world". Big, dirty industry was no longer desirable in Europe,
and Bilbao has been grappling with this reality for the last few decades.
While still gritty enough, a visit to Bilbao is definitely worthwhile, if only to do two things-
visit the Guggenheim and EAT! Basque Country is the culinary mecca of Spain, with the highest
concentration of Michelin starred restaurants and famous chefs in the whole country, and in
Europe at that. You could spend a week in Bilbao, munching your way through the city in bliss.
Seafood and tapas (known as "Pintxos" in Basque Country) are the strongholds in the regional
cooking, and the famous wine region of La Rioja is only an hour and a half away. There are
plenty of smaller museums of interest to art lovers, and Bilbao is also a good base from
which you can visit many beautiful Basque villages such as Getaria and Zarrautz and villages of
historical importance such as Guernica. Bilbao is also home to many stylish new "Design Hotels"
such as the Domine and the Miró.
Gastronomy and Wine
Visitors to Bilbao have an array of restaurants on offer, from the charming family run "Victor's"
in the Plaza Nueva to the culinary power houses of Gorrotxa, Zortziko and Goizeko-Kabi in Bilbao
proper and in the nearby villages such hotspots as Andra Mari and Aretxondo. The typical dishes
of Bilbao and "Vizcaya" (the sub region of this part of Basque country) include "Cocochas" (hake
cheeks), "Merluza en salsa verde" (hake prepared in a parsley and Olive Oil sauce, often with
clams and/or baby eels), "Ensalada de Bogavante" (chilled lobster salad), and "Txangurro" (Crab,
often stuffed in the shell. Other local delicacies include the top class cheese "Idiazabal" and
an assortment of wild mushrooms and truffles.
Basque Country is home to the wine region of Rioja Alavesa (boasting such famous wineries as
Marques de Riscal), to Txakoli (an interesting wine region, near the Atlantic ocean, know for
zippy whites that pair perfectly with vinegary and garlicky tapas) and also, to cider. Basque
cider is not as famous as the cider from Asturias, but it is extremely pleasant. The Basque
cider houses open up to the public during cider season (January to April) and you can drink as
much cider as you like and enjoy rustic dinners eaten at long communal tables. The wineries of
La Rioja are also a pleasure to visit, some open to the general public, others only open to VIP
groups.
Highlights
Guggenheim Museum
Only opened in 1997, the Guggenheim museum has completely and utterly transformed Bilbao.
If you find yourself in Bilbao, a visit to the Guggenheim is "a must". The permanent
collection includes artists such as Richard Serra (who designed the "Snake", mark Tothko
and Willem de Kooning. The restaurant at the Guggenheim is top class, reservations are
essential.
Museo de Bellas Artes
Located in the newer part of Bilbao, The Museum of Fine Arts is very charming, and is in fact
one of the best art museums in Spain. Artists featured include: Bacon, Delauney and Vaserly.
There are plenty of relatively unknown Basque and Catalan painters on view. They have high
profile temporary exhibitions, such as a recent showing of Rodin's sculpture.
Casco Viejo- Old Town
The old town (dating back to the 14th century) is dominated by one main square, the Plaza Nueva
(literally translating as the "new" square, as it merely dates back to the 18th century). The
Plaza Nueva is full of Tapas bras, perfect place to rest your feet and grab a glass of "Txakoli"
wine and some "Pintxos". There are frequent markets in the square, everything from food to
old records and flowers. "Restaurante Victor", right in the Plaza Nueva, is a wonderful
non-pretentious restaurant with amazing seafood and an encyclopaedia of a wine list.
|
