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Marqués de Riscal Winery Guide

Winery Overview

A great deal of energy and investment has been poured into this noble old bodega in recent years – the result is that the region’s oldest winery is also the most modern and innovative approach! Marques de Riscal was founded in 1858 in Rioja Alavesa, the northern Rioja sub-zone known today for producing wines of great structure and aging potential. Riscal pioneered this great region – they were the first to introduce the Bordeaux-style vinification system. Their original bodega, built in cut stone, strongly resembles the style of a Medoc Chateau. They were one of the first wineries to plant Cabernet Sauvignon in Rioja, which has traditionally been the homeland of Tempranillo. So it’s pretty fitting that Paul Pontallier of Chateau Margaux fame has been advising this iconic winery in recent years.

Marques de Riscal is the realization of a dream by Don Camilo Hurtado de Amezaga, who was driven by the devastation of the Bordeaux vineyards by the louse phylloxera in the 19th century. Don Camilo saw unrealized potential in the land we now know as Rioja Alavesa for quality wine production. His small family team launched the winery in 1858 and released their first vintage in 1862. There were few producers in Rioja during this century; the de Amezaga family was the first to plant Tempranillo vineyards, which now cover the entire region. In 1883, their original cellar was extended to cope with the increased demand as their wine started to find fame across Europe. However, the family’s most significant achievement was to win the Diploma of Honor of the Bordeaux Exhibition in 1895; they were the first non-French wine to do so! Marques de Riscal went from strength to strength in the 20th century, launching a new style of Rioja wine – Baron de Chirel – in 1986.

They have continued their outward-looking approach into the millennium, building a leading luxury hotel and spa resort launched in 2006. Designed by Frank O. Gehry (who also designed the Guggenheim in Bilbao), its spectacular marriage of traditional and avant-garde design has drawn visitors worldwide, keen to learn more about this fascinating region. Moreover, it has undoubtedly boosted the image of Rioja enormously. Another first for Marques de Riscal, in 2011, the hotel’s restaurant was awarded its first Michelin star; that same year, a landmark auction was held in Beijing of 100 vintages of Marques de Riscal, dating back to 1862. But for all this company’s impressive architecture and modern equipment and approach, at heart, Marques de Riscal is a family outfit, with the only genuine concern being producing excellent Riojas at a fair price. From fruit grown in the Rueda region, their whites have been consistently good in recent years. The Riojas under the Marques de Riscal label are always excellent: soft, elegant wines that compare well to claret and are delicious. However, their flagship wine, Baron de Chirel is truly something special: rich but structured and firm in its youth, it offers outstanding drinking with 5-year bottle age. The problem is, with wines as good as these, who could wait?

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Author

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James lawrence

With a passion for food & drink that verges on the obsessive, wine writer James Lawrence has traveled the world in search of the perfect tipple. To date, nothing has surpassed the 1952 R. Lopez de Heredia Vina Tondonia Rioja Reserva, tasted in the cobweb-filled cellars with owner María José. Meanwhile, James has been writing for a wide variety of publications for over 12 years, including Telegraph, Decanter, Harpers, The Drinks Business, and Wine Business International. He lives in South Wales and returns to his former university city, Bilbao, as much as possible.

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