Txakoli (Txakolina) Wine Region Guide

Geography and terroir

Northern Spain is a strong contender for the most beautiful part of Europe. It boasts some of the most pristine beaches in the world, in addition to undulating scenery replete with hilltop villages, farms, gorges, and verdant fields. The vine is very much at home in this environment, despite the very wet maritime climate of the Basque Country.

Nevertheless, high alcohol and rich textures are almost impossible to achieve in this part of Spain. But the terroir is conducive to delivering a style of white that is totally in vogue: light, refreshing, and very aromatic. The coastal areas and interior are planted to vines, with the coolest sites found in the higher-altitude plots in the hilly terrain south and southeast of Bilbao. Three Denominaciones de Origen (DOs) are within the Txakoli region: Getaria, Bizkaia, and Álava.

Getaria

The Getaria zone was given official DO recognition as recently as 1989, despite a long winemaking tradition dating back to at least the 15th century. Yet in the early 1980s, there were only 21 hectares of vines in Getaria; in 2007, the region was extended to the whole of the historic Gipuzkoa territory. Now there are over 400 hectares under vine.

Bizkaia

DO Txakoli Bizkaia or Bizkailo Txakolina, meanwhile, was established in 1994. Successful vineyards have popped up all over the region (which surrounds the city of Bilbao), sticking to coastal areas, valleys, and the interior. The highest concentration of vineyards is around Urdaibai and Uribe. This interpretation differs from other Txakolis, which is slightly more acidic and has more distinctive herbaceous notes.

Álava

Finally, Txakoli Álava or Arabako Txakolina is an interior region south of Bilbao; only established in 2001, it is the youngest of the three regions. The fresh, humid climate means sugar levels are low in even the best vintages, and the resulting alcohol level rarely exceeds 9%. Perfect for those who seek moderation at lunch!

Winemaking and regional classifications

Despite the inevitable consequences of global warming, quality wine production here is still challenging with (relatively) cool summers and high rainfall. However, thanks to the determination of local producers who have striven to conserve traditional cultivation (wire-trained vines of indigenous varietals) with the help of modern vinification practices, the region has grown from strength to strength.

Diversity and Evolution of Txakoli Grapes

The vast majority of Txakoli is built around the zippy brilliance of the Hondarrabi Zuri grape, although the DO rules permit blending in a dash of Hondarrabi Zuri Zerratia (Petit Courbu), Mune Mahatsa (Folle Blanche), and Izkiriotas (Petit and Gros Manseng).

Historically, the winemaking method was extremely rustic: juice was allowed to oxidize and ferment in warm conditions in old wooden containers, producing a stale and acidic style of wine.

Thankfully, the modern paradigm emphasizes protecting the juice at all costs, preserving primary fruit aromas with a cool vinification in stainless steel. As a result, it is common for winemakers to bottle Txakoli on its lees, which encourages a minor secondary fermentation, releasing a small amount of C02 into the wine.

This bubbly spritz makes Txakoli so pleasant to drink in the summer months. In addition, a small volume of red and rosé wine is made in each of the three subregions – the former can rival Mencia in its sappy texture and bright, floral fruit.

The lowdown

Can Txakoli make the leap from local tipple to export giant? It seems plausible: light and low-alcohol categories are hugely trendy, particularly with health-conscious Millennials in wealthy markets like Germany, Scandinavia, the UK, and the US. Moreover, Txakoli ticks practically every box in the sommelier and buyer communities, being affordable, well-made, and delicious. The only problem is a lack of sufficient volume and limitations on planting new vines.

Indeed, local consumption and demand are such that despite their growing popularity abroad, it is rare to find Txakoli Bizkaia wines, for example, outside the region. On the plus side, however, Txakoli can offer diverse styles, including fragrant rosé and elegant reds that work fantastically well alongside summer dishes.

Of course, most Txakolis are white wines designed to be drunk young. However, several producers have successfully experimented with oak barrel fermentation and extended time on the lees, producing fuller-bodied, more structured Txakolis capable of cellar aging and standing up to richer cuisine. With enough effort and a little luck, Txakoli could become an international superstar.

Txakoli gastronomy

Welcome to Spain’s foodie capital. Take your pick from a surfeit of Michelin-starred restaurants, irresistible tapas bars, and lively cider taverns. Abundant fresh fish and seafood have long distinguished the cuisine of northern Spain from the Atlantic; Basque pintxos make full use of this wonderful bounty. The region is also a source of great cheeses. But the true magic of eating here lies in the talents of the Basque Country’s formidable chefs. The Basques, with their famous gastronomic societies, have few peers in Western Europe.

Guide to Basque Gastronomy: Read more