Profile of Seville
Seville is without a doubt one of the most beautiful cities in the world. It is almost like a living
museum, particularly in the evocative old Jewish quarter, the Santa Cruz. There is a unique quality of
light in Seville, and the sensual perfume of the ubiquitous jasmine blossoms lends itself to the
romance of the place. Unbelievably narrow streets lined with whitewashed palaces and balconies
bursting over with fuschia-colored bougainvillea, lead you from one tiny square to the next,
inevitably full of orange trees, graceful courtyards which passers by can sneak a peek at, and
charming Tapas Bars covered in typical tiles and lined with wine barrels.
Conquered by the Moors in the 8th century, Seville has always been a royal residence. Even before the
Caliphs arrived, the Romans and Carthaginians were fighting over Seville, and the Phoenicians and
Greeks before them. Italica, just outside Seville, is the site of preserved Roman ruins dating back to
3rd century BC. Roman Seville became Christian in the 4th century and the Visgoths who ruled afterwards
built amazing Christian monuments, including the Cathedral. History in Southern Spain was tumultuous
for the next few hundred years including religious crusades, the "Reconquest", the religious expulsions
and cruel conversions and the monumental discovery of "the new world".
From the Spanish conquest of the Americas, riches flowed back to Spain, literally directly into the
country through Seville's Guadalquivir river. Exuberant palaces and mansions were erected and Seville
was (and still is) the home of one of the leading Spanish aristocratic families, the Medinacelis. In
the 1500's, Seville grew very wealthy and the Port became one of the busiest in the world. The defeat
of the Spanish Armada and the escalation of religious fanaticism, however, did little good for Seville
and the city suffered a decline until the 17th century's "Golden Age" explosion of Baroque painting and
architecture. The legacy of this creative "boom" includes the works of Murillo, Zurbarán, Alonso Cano,
Velasquéz and Juan de Mesa. The next few hundred years, brought political insecurity, the loss of the
colonies, and the horrific Spanish civil war. In the late 20th century, things looked a lot better for
Seville. The town hosted the Expo in 1992 and saw the introduction of the fast speed train from Madrid
to Seville (called the "Ave", meaning "bird").
Gastronomy and Wine
Seville is one of the best cities in Spain to experience the famed Tapas Bars. Eating is an art form in
Seville, and "Tapa Hopping" is what the locals do, starting at one bar and slowly making their way down
to four or five different bars, sipping wine and chatting along the way, until they get full, at which
point, they drink more wine! This ritual is called "Tapeo" and the historic quarter is conducive to this
kind of fun "culinary travelling". The Santa Cruz barrio, for example, is literally lined with bar
after bar, each specializing in various Tapas and Vinos.
Tapas you shouldn't miss while in Seville, include: "Pringá" (very typical, it's a little toasty topped
with different meats such as pork, bacon and chorizo); "Montaditos" (these are pieces of rustic country
bread that can be topped with blood pudding, spicy sausages, Roquefort and walnuts, anchovies, Pork
marinated in Jerez wine, etc); Papas Aliñás (cold potato salad doused in gorgeous Olive Oil and tossed
with prawns, onions, garlic, tomatoes and a splash of vinegar); and Garbanzos con Espinacas (chick peas
lightly sautéed with fresh spinach, olive oil and garlic.) the most traditional wines to be served
with Tapas are the wines from Jerez de la Frontera and Sanlucar de Barrameda, which include: Manzanilla,
Fino, Oloroso and Amontillado. For cheese based tapas and desserts, the ultra rich Pedro Ximenez is
often served. Those who aren't fans of Sherry, can enjoy a variety of red wines from La Rioja and
Ribera Del Duero and white wines from Rueda or Rias Baixas.
Highlights
Reales Alcazares
Seville fell to the Moors in 712 and the military chiefs built their
fortress on the very site where the Reales Alcazares are today. Called the "Royal Fortress", this
beautiful property houses the 9th century Moorish Palaces built for the Emir, Abderraman II. These
superb palaces are absolutely stunning for the first time visitor. Intricately carved arches, hand
painted tiles with Arabic calligraphy and spectacular gardens can all be enjoyed here. This is an
absolute "must see" in Seville.
Casa de Pilatos
One of Seville's finest palaces built by The First Marquis of Tarifa
in the late 1400's, to resemble Pontius Pilate's residence in Jerusalem. The palace is owned now by the
Duke of Medinaceli and is the most beautiful private residence in Seville, which is luckily open to the
public. You'll see beautiful Roman busts, an interesting fusion of Renaissance and Mudejar architectural
styles and a collection of family paintings including ones of Barbera de Braganza who once lived there.
Archivo de las Indias
Due to be reopened soon after recent renovation, the
"Indies Archives" is a library/museum located in a gorgeous 16th century building, which holds more
than four million documents relating to the discovery of "the New World". One of the most interesting
bits of the huge collection is the personal diary excerpt of Cristobal Colón (Christopher Columbus).
The Cathedral and La Giralda
This graceful building has an almost anarchic past. The
site of Seville's huge cathedral was the original site of Seville's 12th century Mosque (of which only
the Giralda tower is left). A Visigoth church was rebuilt over the Mosque. Work began in 1401 and
lasted until 1506! The beautiful result is a mix of Gothic, Plateresque and baroque styles, and is
today the third largest Christian church in the world (after St Peter's in Rome and St Paul's in London).
You can climb up the Giralda tower to take in the sweeping views below, but be prepared for a long
wait in line.
Plaza España
Newer than it looks, this delightful square was actually built for the
Ibero-América exhibition in Seville, in 1929. All of Spain's main cities are represented in tiled murals
along the tiny boating canal (which has small foot bridges). There is exquisite tilework and neo-mudejar
brickwork on all of the buildings in the square. While the buildings are not open to the public, it's
still a pleasure to stroll along the curve of the canal and see all the Murals. The square is currently
being renovated and should be finished by Spring 2004.
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