Andalucia Wine Regions Guide

Winemaking and regional classifications

Sherry is Andalucia’s most famous and longstanding export. Produced in the Sherry Triangle that lies between Seville and Cadiz, Jerez (as they say in Andalucia) gains part of its unique character due to fortification with grape spirit after fermentation is complete. But the other vital part of the equation is the maturation of young fortified wines in wood, known as the solera system. This refers to the progressive topping-up of older barrels with younger wines so that the Sherry is continuously being blended, thus eliminating variation. Each year a proportion of wine from the oldest solera is bottled, topped up with younger wine, and so on.

All young Sherry is initially classified as a light wine to be made into a Fino or a fuller wine that will become an Oloroso. The former is aged under a protective layer of yeast (flor) – Oloroso Sherries are matured in contact with air until they become a gloriously complex, nutty delight. Amontillado is a halfway house: older Finos, which have taken on some oxidative notes with age.

Traditionally, the above were all marketed as a bone dry style, although sweetened commercial Sherries are regrettably a vital source of revenue for the DO. But in Montilla-Moriles, just south of Cordoba, Andalucia’s greatest sweet wine style is made from Pedro Ximenez grapes; this luscious, potent concoction can stand up to any dessert. Its potency derives from the sweltering climate of Cordoba and its environs, producing wines with very high sugar levels. It remains a landmark wine, although modern palates may find the style cloyingly sweet.

The same accusation could not be levied at the best dry wines of the Sierras de Malaga DO. It occupies the same geographical area as the expansive Malaga DO; however, that designation only regulates the production of sweet Moscatel wines. But trailblazing winemakers have proven that Bordeaux varieties can thrive in the hills above Malaga; the hinterland of the Costa del Sol, the most mountainous part of Spain, is also attracting the best and brightest of Spain’s new generation. However, the vineyards of Ronda have been in existence for some time, largely planted to Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Petit Verdot, in addition to a smattering of white varieties. The Schatz family of Trentino were one of the first pioneers to arrive in Andalucia – others have since followed.

Nevertheless, many critics argue that Malaga’s most landmark wines are the sweet Moscatels that Rodriguez and Jorge Ordonez helped to revive at the end of the 1990s. Molina Real, made from old bush vines in Malaga province, is one of the most delicate and perfumed wines to emanate from southern Spain. Fresh, fragrant, and supremely delicate, it has helped win over those who stubbornly refuse to sip these delicious sweet wines. Molina Real is a vino generoso for the modern age.

Geography and terroir

Andalucia is a paradise for the ambitious winegrower. Where else in Europe could you hope to find such a rich tapestry of different macroclimates, soils, and topography? The region is vast, stretching 550km from east to west in a landmass that is roughly the same size as Portugal. Historically, the fertile valley of the 660 km Guadalquivir River played a vital role in irrigating crops and vines in Andalucia; the river flows westwards through Cordoba, then bends south through Seville to enter the Atlantic at Sanlucar de Barrameda, one of the region’s key wine zones.

Further east are the vineyards of Jerez de la Frontera, planted on white chalky terroir responsible for Sherry’s inimitable ability to refresh the palate before, during, and after a meal! The most famous climats in the Sherry Triangle are Carrascal, Macharnudo, Anina, and Balbaina, responsible for the most structured and long-lived fortified wines. However, the coastal areas contain little chalk but an abundance of sandy terrain – perfect for ripening Moscatel.

The vineyards of Ronda, meanwhile, are planted on a mixture of alluvial and calcareous soils. Limestone also features heavily in the terrain north of Malaga; the Axarquia mountains to the east offer metamorphic slate terroir, perfect for ripening red varieties like Petit Verdot and Cabernet Sauvignon, two relatively recent additions to Andalucia’s viticultural landscape. Vineyards also carpet the famous Costa del Sol west of Malaga, bathed in year-round Mediterranean sunlight.

Yet Andalucia’s climate is far less homogenous than people realize. The arid climate of Almeria represents one extreme; however, western Andalucia receives far more rain than the central coastal areas. The Sierra de Grazalema, west of Ronda, receives more rainfall than certain parts of northern Spain! The vineyards of Jerez de la Frontera and Sanlucar have long benefited from cooling winds straight off the Atlantic Ocean. In addition, there’s a marked difference between the coastal and interior climates. Indeed, in the mountains, temperatures are always several degrees cooler than down on the plains. This advantage is wisely exploited by winemakers like Telmo Rodriguez, who cultivate vines up to 800 meters above sea level. In these mountain climats, the nights are as cool as the days are hot. Therein lies the secret to producing wines with freshness and Mediterranean ripeness in sun-drenched Andalucia.

The lowdown

Andalucia is committed to the cause of reinvention; the demand for fortified wines continues to falter, which is hardly good news in a region still widely associated with sweetened Sherry or ‘Grandma’s tipple’ to use the unflattering moniker. Granted, the major bodegas have worked hard to rescue Sherry’s image by bringing new products to the market – people also need to remember that high-quality Fino is bone dry! But facts are facts: most consumers are not interested in fortified wine styles. Therefore the future lies in the direction of dry table wines. Otherwise, Andalucia risks becoming an irrelevance.

Thankfully, the region’s dynamic winemakers have no intention of letting that happen. Innovation and experimentation are everywhere: some vineyards planted around Granada rise to over 1,300 meters above sea level, breaking records in high-altitude viticulture in Western Europe. Bodega Barranco Oscuro had led the way in demonstrating that even the baking hot climate of Andalucia’s interior can yield fresh and balanced wines that can shock in blind tastings.

Growers in the subzone of Ronda are no less busy, repeatedly confounding expectations with their elegant Pinot Noir – yes, honestly! – Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and even Chardonnay. At the same time, reflecting the growing demand for premium – and affordable – wines from emerging regions, the Sierras de Malaga DO goes from strength to strength. Aromatic and structured dry styles (red and white) continue to proliferate from new plantings in the region; there were just a handful of producers in the 1980s. Today, there are more than 40 making wines of real class and distinction.

However, from one perspective, the above is misleading – it belies the incredible effort and hard work required to coax finesse out of grapes cultivated in southern Spain. Elevation is an important factor that can make all the difference in this climate. But there is so much more: sophisticated canopy management, intelligent clonal selection, judicious site selection, and sound judgment on when to pick are all vital to success in Andalucia. This is frontier winemaking at its most challenging. So never let it be said that winegrowers lack ingenuity.

Andalucian gastronomy

Andalucia’s greatest contribution to the culinary world is arguably tapas: tasty morsels of food that are still served gratis with each drink in some of the region’s more traditional bars. But the entire food culture of the region is worthy of high praise, heavily influenced by the Moorish period of the Middle Ages. They introduced rice, lemons, oranges, olives, and exotic foodstuffs like cumin and saffron. Many of these ingredients make an appearance in classical Andalucian dishes, such as Rabo de Toro (bull’s tail) and fritura de pescado (deep-fried squid and other fish).

Guide to Andalusian Gastronomy: Read more