Friuli-Venezia Giulia Wine Region Guide

Winemaking and regional classifications

Friuli has established a strong reputation for the quality and consistency of its white wines. They are typically varietal, perfumed, sharply etched, clean as a whistle, and often unoaked. Yet, while the region has a signature style, its palate of grape varieties is as broad as its eclectic mix of terroirs and climates. The principal grape of Colli Orientali, Friulano, is one of the most commonly encountered in the zone.

Like the ubiquitous Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Grigio, it yields very fruity wines that are usually subject to protective handling: the exclusion of oxygen, cool fermentation in stainless steel, malolactic fermentation, and lees stirring are all standard practices in the appellation. Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Grigio are often treated similarly, satisfying global demand for saline whites that can be marketed at under $15. They are relatively easy (and cost-effective) to produce, although that is not to belittle the high standards of local winemaking today.

Meanwhile, over 30 percent of the vineyards of Colli Orientali are planted to red grapes. Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot are becoming more popular. However, the indigenous Refosco and Schioppettino are making some of the most exciting wines in Friuli today: aromatically complex and silky reds that benefit from a period in oak, although too many new barrique will ruin everything. Funnily enough, some of the vineyards once thought to be Cabernet Franc turned out to be Carmenere – the signature red variety of Chile. It makes a funky style of red in this corner of northeastern Italy, renowned for its bouquet of undergrowth, red currants, and a distinctly animal note. A surge of investment – and imported expertise – has contributed significantly to the continuing increase in general wine quality here, with better tannin management and less over-oaking.

The same could be said about the esoteric wines of Ramandolo DOCG. The appellation produces one of Friuli’s most underappreciated and unique styles: sweet Verduzzo with a pungent bouquet of honey, saffron, citrus, and stone fruit. A great deal of pride is also invested in Picolit, a dessert wine made from a (relatively) obscure local white grape. It is somewhat reminiscent of Petit Manseng – a flowery, sweet white with notes of honeysuckle and apricot. Yet, although we love to recommend the weird and wonderful to everyone, Verduzzo, and Picolit are hardly significant cash cows for the region.

Collio Goriziano DOC, however, is a different matter. This appellation, located south of Colli Orientali, is an export powerhouse and a vital part of Friuli’s economy. It produces some of the area’s finest whites, based on a mixture of indigenous and international grapes that keep the accountants and consumers happy. Such is the insatiable demand for Pinot Grigio that this variety long ago overtook Friulano in terms of acreage.

The critical mass of labels conform to the stereotype: fermented in stainless steel and bottled relatively soon after the harvest, Pinot Grigio is a quaffable – and perhaps forgettable – part of the Italian viticultural map. But the same cannot be said for Ribolla Gialla, a real local beauty. It yields gorgeously perfumed whites that invoke the best of Galicia with their clean fruit and racy acidity. The area under vine has recently increased as more and more oenophiles reject the familiar for the authentic.

Geography and terroir

The vineyards of Friuli-Venezia are found in northeastern Italy, bordered by Slovenia to the East and Austria to the north. Interestingly, some of the vines planted in western Primorska are politically part of Slovenia, yet they belong geographically to Friuli. Indeed, some producers have vineyards on both sides of the border, commuting between the splendid cities of Trieste and Ljubljana.

Today, the wider region showcases four DOCG appellations, over 10 DOCs, and three Indicazione Geografica Tipicas (IGPs). The area under vine is expansive, running just south of Cividale del Friuli to the landscape southwest of Gorizia, on the border with Slovenia. As a result, Friuli has a wide variety of microclimates and terroirs, with a correspondingly broad spectrum of wine styles. Moreover, although over 80 percent of the total production is white, plenty of warm sites can ripen red varieties, including Cabernet Sauvignon, in most years.

The vineyards of Colli Orientali and Isonzo represent the two sides of Friuli wine-growing. Although protected from harsh winds by the Alps in Slovenia to the northeast, the former enjoys a cool continental climate; winters are bitter, and summers can be long and dry. These eastern hills climb to about 350 meters above sea level and are endowed with mineral-rich soils that contain marl and sandstone deposits. Meanwhile, the flatter vineyards of Isonzo in the south are far closer to the Adriatic and, therefore, enjoy a milder climate. Merlot is particularly successful in the well-drained vineyards north of the River Isonzo. However, the wines made on the lower, flatter, more fertile land between the river and the sea are often (but not always) less remarkable.

The lowdown

Although it lacks the global renown of Piedmont and Tuscany, Friuli-Venezia Giulia is increasingly one of Italy’s most dynamic vineyards. After decades of apathy, family-run wineries are exporting a surfeit of both reliable and highly individual wines. Indeed, although the supermarkets demand large swathes of inexpensive Pinot Grigio and Sauvignon Blanc, most of the excitement (in wine geek circles, at least!) comes from esoteric gems like Ribolla Gialla. Moreover, while some growers adhere to a very standardized paradigm – clean, cool, fermented, and unoaked – experimentation and innovation continue apace.

That said, Friuli-Venezia is not without its critics. In trying to catch up with the rest of the world, the region embraced international grapes and winemaking in the second half of the 20th century. Sauvignon Blanc’s appearance, gleaming stainless steel tanks, and small oak barrels in the cellars provoked fears that Friuli would become homogenized. And it is undeniable that part of its livelihood depends on exporting considerable volumes of Italian-grown French grapes. Nevertheless, these cookie-cutter wine brands are seldom very inspiring.

However, the last 15 years have also reaffirmed proud traditions in Friuli, with local varieties championed by the area’s top winemakers; they sell to independent retailers and sommeliers instead of Walmart. Yet when major supermarket chain Marks & Spencer decided to list a brand of Ribolla Gialla, they took a bold risk promoting an esoteric style to a new audience. But the decision has paid dividends, mainly as Friuli whites now offer a new elegance and precision that renders them entirely different from the rustic plonk of the past.

Meanwhile, Josko Gravner and others continue to showcase a more nuanced and left-field side of Friuli winemaking. Having embraced organic and biodynamic viticulture, he continues to showcase the best of skin-contact winemaking, maturing his wines in amphorae to create something richly textured, complex, and unrecognizable to fans of unoaked Pinot Grigio. Hot on their heels, red varieties like Refosco are finding favor with the hipster crowd. Overall, it’s a fantastic time to drink Friuli. There is a wealth of choice here, most available at deliciously attractive prices.

Friuli-Venezia Giulia gastronomy

You’re guaranteed to eat well, in fact extremely well, in the gastronomic paradise that is Friuli. As one of Italy’s major cultural melting pots, you can expect riffs on Italian, Austrian, and Hungarian cuisine; start with zucchini fritters and panini before delving into beef brisket, capuzi (sauerkraut), and boiled pork stuffed into a sausage. Take an aperitivo – preferably a glass of Prosecco – and peruse the menu. For a relatively modest amount, you’ll dine like a Habsburg monarch.

Read more