Bical Grape Variety: a Return to Grace
February 15, 2023
Bical grape produces crisp, refreshing white wines with high acidity and subtle mineral notes. Perfect with seafood and fresh dishes. Discover more.
Read articleLearn what Cabernet Sauvignon tastes like, where it grows best, why it matters in Bordeaux, and how to pair and serve this age-worthy red grape.
Estimated reading time: 12 minutes
The world of wine is far more than simply a numbers game. Instead, it champions both the familiar and the esoteric, featuring hundreds of obscure European grape varieties. In terms of volume, these varieties may be responsible for only a few thousand bottles of wine per year. Yet growers continue to cherish them despite the onward march of globalization and the constant pressure to sell grape varieties that consumers know and love.

Guide to French Red Wine: Read more
But if oenophiles reach for a familiar red grape variety (and there’s nothing wrong with that!), they inevitably find themselves drinking Cabernet Sauvignon. Cabernet Sauvignon is one of the world’s most widely planted wine grapes and arguably the most globally recognized red wine variety. Experts estimate there are over 840,000–850,000 acres globally, covering about 5% of the total vineyard area. For example, almost every luxury wine brand in California markets a Cabernet Sauvignon wine – a single varietal or Bordeaux blend. Its popularity with winemakers is easy to understand; relatively easy to grow, Cabernet Sauvignon will produce exceptional and long-lived red wine in various climates and soil types.
Moreover, it is not fussy, adapting to the vineyard conditions of Sonoma, Stellenbosch, Mendoza, and even Ningxia in central China. As a result, it is responsible for some of the most expensive red wines in the world, including Bordeaux’s Château Latour, Napa’s Screaming Eagle, and Tuscany’s Ornellaia. However, few would challenge the notion that Bordeaux-grown Cabernet Sauvignon is in a league of its own.
Primary regions: Bordeaux, Napa Valley, Tuscany, Chile, Australia, South Africa
Style: Dry, full-bodied red wine
Typical flavors: Blackcurrant, blackberry, plum, cedar, tobacco, graphite
Structure: High tannin, medium-to-high acidity, usually age-worthy
Best food pairings: Steak, lamb, roast beef, game, hard cheeses
Serving temperature: Around 16–18°C
Cabernet Sauvignon is usually a dry, full-bodied red wine with firm tannins, medium-to-high acidity, and a deep core of black fruit. Classic aromas include blackcurrant, blackberry, black cherry, plum, cedar, tobacco, graphite, mint, and sometimes green pepper or herbal notes, especially in cooler climates.
In Bordeaux, Cabernet Sauvignon often tastes more structured and savory, with notes of cassis, cedar, graphite, tobacco, and firm acidity. In warmer regions such as Napa Valley or parts of Australia, it tends to show riper blackberry fruit, fuller body, higher alcohol, and more generous oak influence.
With bottle age, top Cabernet Sauvignon can develop complex tertiary notes of leather, cigar box, forest floor, dried herbs, coffee, and truffle.

Cabernet Sauvignon has been cultivated in the Bordeaux region for centuries, and its importance was established in the mid-1800s. Indeed, in the late 18th century, over 30 red varieties were planted in the Right Bank, while Carménère, Malbec, and Cabernet Franc were prolific in the Médoc. In addition, hybrid varieties (genetic crossings of European and American vine species) were not uncommon in the vineyards of Margaux and Pauillac.
Then phylloxera happened. This devastating louse, introduced via North American vines, destroyed vineyards throughout the wider Bordeaux region. The solution, adopted in the late 19th century, was to graft European Vitis vinifera vines onto phylloxera-resistant American rootstocks, a change that permanently reshaped European viticulture. However, the number of grapes in Bordeaux was significantly reduced, partly because not every variety could be grafted. When the land was being replanted, it was inevitable that growers would select grapes that could tolerate the inclement weather that routinely defined late summer/early autumn in South-West France and would ripen successfully—Cabernet Sauvignon’s moment had arrived.
By the mid-1800s, Cabernet Sauvignon was established as the most important variety on the Left Bank. Because its etymology derives from the French word ‘sauvage’ (wild), many believe Cabernet has ancient origins, dating back to the Roman conquest of Gaul. Some have suggested that it is the modern-day name for Biturica, a grape referenced by the Roman poet Pliny, the Elder. Others believe Cabernet was a Spanish import from the Rioja region many centuries ago.
As ever, the scientific community has done much to help solve the mystery of Cabernet’s origins. Research conducted at the University of California, Davis, determined in 1998 that Cabernet Sauvignon is the genetic offspring of Cabernet Franc and the white grape Sauvignon Blanc. This somewhat debunks the Spanish theory, suggesting that the noble red grape of Bordeaux probably originated in France. Cabernet Franc and Sauvignon Blanc vines interbred at some point in the past, resulting in Cabernet Sauvignon. In 2016, the university achieved another milestone, sequencing a draft of the grape’s entire genome. This was the first time the genome of a major wine-producing grape had been sequenced.
When discussing the relative merits of Cabernet Sauvignon, growers will always tell you the same thing: this grape is the antithesis of fussy (we’re looking at you, Pinot Noir!). Resistant to most grapevine diseases – powdery mildew is an exception – Cabernet thrives in maritime and warm climates; Bordeaux and Napa Valley are the two most important global examples. Although the resulting wine style will understandably vary in body, alcohol, and ripeness, Cabernet produces consistently high-quality wines in many terroirs, ranging from the gravel of Pauillac to the alluvial loam of Napa.
However, if the climate is too cool, Cabernet will struggle to ripen, yielding herbaceous wines with bitter tannins. At the opposite end of the spectrum, Cabernet Sauvignon can suffer from a high pH, the inevitable tedium of stewed fruit aromas, and a lack of acidity in hot climates. It is perfectly drinkable, to be sure. But such ‘cooked’ wines seldom excite the palate.
The same cannot be said of Cabernet Sauvignon grown in the Médoc. When planted on gravel soils, this versatile red grape produces bottled magic, profound, complex, and structured wines that can age for over 100 years if the vintage conditions allow. Its popularity in the Left Bank can be attributed to many factors, not least Cabernet’s ability to resist rot – a significant boon in wetter years. It is also less susceptible to spring frost attacks as a late-ripening variety. Unless the growing season is unseasonably cool and wet, vines will ripen a good crop of healthy grapes packed full of phenolic and coloring substances.
Of course, no grape variety is without its challenges. For example, certain clones of Cabernet Sauvignon are minded to crop at inflated yields, running the risk of flavor dilution. Therefore, it is essential to judiciously prune throughout the season. But on the upside, Cabernet’s berries are usually relatively small, so there is a high ratio of skin to juice. All great red wines derive most of their tannins and structure from the skins.
The hallmark flavor of Cabernet Sauvignon is world-renowned. All that is needed is a single sniff to discern what lies behind that quintessential bouquet of blackcurrants, blackberries, and cherries. Enticing tertiary tobacco flavors, violets, cinnamon, cedarwood, and coffee will emerge with bottle age. This dark red wine, rich in tannin, provides the backbone of almost all Cru Classé wines from Bordeaux’s Left Bank.
How best to handle Cabernet Sauvignon in the winery? That question remains a point of major contention within Bordeaux and further afield. Some adhere to a strict ‘non-interventionist’ paradigm, arguing that winemaker inputs – and manipulation – should be kept to a minimum. Others consider this nonsense, believing that great wine cannot make itself.
Yet every property in Bordeaux understands that Cru Classé wine must derive from premium-grade berries, hand-harvested under ideally dry conditions. After that, most wineries will sort and destem the fruit, believing that stalks run the risk of bitter tannins. However, not every château uses sorting tables – Château Margaux argues that healthy vines and highly trained pickers dispense with the need for pre-fermentation sorting. A few include a certain percentage of stems (if ripe), which they argue contribute to structure.
Traditionally, most estates in Bordeaux crushed their Cabernet Sauvignon berries before fermentation. Yet there is far from complete consensus on this issue in the 21st century; a growing number of younger winemakers argue that crushing can increase the risk of oxidation and prefer to use uncrushed berries or a mixture of whole and crushed fruit. Many also champion pre-fermentation maceration, or ‘cold soak.’ This Burgundian technique delays the onset of fermentation by chilling the must and gently extracting color and tannin. The wine is then fermented in either stainless steel or wooden vats (most commonly). Some estates have even been experimenting with fermentation in barrique.
The manner of fermentation also divides opinion. Many châteaux prefer the classical method of ‘pump over,’ which involves using pumps to distribute the must over the top of the cap (solid materials that rise to the surface) with regular frequency. This exposes the must to beneficial oxygenation, although it is ineffective at breaking up the cap. In recent years, certain winemakers have favored the Burgundian method of pigeage, in which plungers are forced into the cap to distribute the must evenly, thereby extracting deeper color. However, its opponents argue it can lead to over-extracted wines and harsh tannins. Similarly, the process of micro-oxygenation or cliquage (inserting controlled amounts of oxygen into the fermenting must) remains a contentious topic in Bordeaux.
Of course, nothing divides the wine industry like the subject of oak maturation. Many of the best Cabernet Sauvignon – and indeed Merlot – wines are aged in 100% new French oak for up to 24 months. The perceived wisdom is that powerfully structured red wines benefit from the roundness, complexity, and weight that barrel aging enhances. But with the sommelier community repeatedly insisting that oenophiles want their wines lighter, fruit-driven, and “more elegant,” this panacea is increasingly being called into question.
Stéphanie de Boüard arguably spoke for the next generation of Bordeaux wines in 2016 when she told journalists,
“Angélus is a wonderful wine, but I would like to reduce the oak influence on the grand vin. We typically use 100-percent new French oak for up to 22 months, and I’d like to scale that back somewhat to make the wine more supple. So I’m looking forward to experimenting with 90 percent and 80 percent, for example.”
A model for others to follow or an outlier in the Bordeaux region? Only time will tell.

There are no serious challengers to the primacy and quality of Cabernet Sauvignon wines produced in Bordeaux’s Left Bank. In due fairness, some good wines are being made in regions as diverse as the Loire, Languedoc-Roussillon, Bergerac, and Provence. But they cannot touch the majesty of Château Latour, Lafite, and Margaux. Although it is rare to encounter a 100% Cabernet Sauvignon wine in Bordeaux, the grape nearly always plays a dominant role in the Médoc appellations, particularly Margaux, Saint-Julien, and Pauillac. The grape is also an important part of the red wines made in the Pessac-Léognan and Graves zones, located south of Bordeaux city.
Meanwhile, in Bordeaux’s Right Bank, Cabernet offers structure and depth to Merlot-dominant blends, with other grapes like Cabernet Franc playing a supporting role. The reason for Cabernet Sauvignon’s ‘relegated’ position in this part of the world is simple: the grape generally does not ripen when planted on the cold clay soils of Saint-Émilion and Pomerol, although gravel outcrops do exist in vineyards on the Right Bank of the Dordogne.
The leading appellations of the Left Bank have long enjoyed unrivaled success in growing Cabernet Sauvignon to sweet perfection. Margaux is a case in point; the soils are infertile, which helps curtail natural vigor, and are characterized by white gravel and sand. The soil – gravel and stone deposits over limestone – enables the late-ripening Cabernet to mature, even in difficult years. Pauillac and Saint-Julien are also blessed with gravel-rich terroirs that reflect heat into the vine canopy. This helps the grapes to reach desirable high levels of sugar and phenolic ripeness before the harvest begins. That fact, combined with the maritime climate of the Médoc Peninsula, is a surefire recipe for producing superlative red wine.
As they say, the proof is in the eating; a recent tasting of a mature vintage of Lynch Bages confirmed the primacy of Bordeaux Cabernet Sauvignon. The wine was perfectly balanced, a harmonious marriage between ripeness and elegance flowing effortlessly from Cabernet Sauvignon grown in the Médoc. Aromas of plum, minerals, and coffee filled the glass, supported by fine tannins and ripe acidity—a landmark example of why collectors are willing to pay lavish sums for the finest Bordeaux wines.
However, not every Médoc section has achieved consistent success with this much-loved grape. Historically, a large volume of Cabernet Sauvignon was planted on cold clay soils in vineyards north and west of Saint-Estèphe. As a result, it struggled to ripen, particularly in cooler years. Yet over the past 15 years, there has been a concerted movement to replace Cabernet with the earlier-ripening Merlot, which is better suited to the calcareous terroir. As a result, the northern section of the Médoc is no longer dominated by Cabernet, though a few exceptions remain. Once, it accounted for over 80% of the total vineyard area north of Saint-Estèphe, despite its unsuitability. This viticultural shift has helped augment quality in Bordeaux’s less exalted communes and sub-zones.
As Bordeaux adapts to warmer summers and changing rainfall patterns, Cabernet Sauvignon remains central to the future of the Left Bank. In many Médoc vineyards, warmer recent vintages have helped Cabernet reach full maturity more reliably than in the past, especially on well-drained gravel soils.
At the same time, Bordeaux is not relying on temperature alone. Growers are adjusting canopy management, harvest dates, rootstocks, soil practices, and varietal choices. For Bordeaux and Bordeaux Supérieur, several climate-adaptation varieties — including Touriga Nacional, Marselan, Castets, and Arinarnoa for red wines — have been approved in small proportions.
These changes do not apply in the same way to the leading Médoc appellations, where Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, and smaller amounts of Petit Verdot continue to define the blends. But they show how seriously Bordeaux is planning for a warmer future.
Cabernet Sauvignon is built for rich, savory food. Its tannins pair best with protein and fat, while its dark fruit and cedar notes suit grilled, roasted, and slow-cooked dishes.
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