Exploring Friuli-Venezia Giulia: Organic and Low-Intervention Wine Producers

Lorenzo and Federica are a formidable husband-and-wife team who make consistently superb wines from 7 ha of vineyards. Lorenzo inherited his grandfather’s unloved, unkempt vineyards in 1997. He quickly decided to embark on a restoration project, converting to biodynamic principles and restoring the natural balance of their precious terroir. Lorenzo ended his medical school career early; with Federica, he converted to biodynamic viticulture with ease, and together they now craft a range of superlative wines from indigenous and international varieties. They also own Ronco Pitotti, one of Friuli’s oldest hillside vineyards, with vines dating back to the 1920s, and their top wines have a purity, concentration, and minerality that are truly impressive. Bravo!

Although producing a significant range of red and white wines (and a Prosecco), Mont’Albano has stayed true to its founding principles of quality and consistency over volume. Founded in 1985 in the heart of the region by Mauro Braidot, Mont’Albano set out from the start to produce wines according to organic principles. It joined the Sartori group in 2008. Today it is the poster child for successful organic viticulture without unduly sacrificing yields. All the wines are stylish, expressive, and fruit-centered, with the whites in particular. The Pinot Gris is one of the finest in the region, showing pear drop and summer stone fruits and remarkable purity.

This leading producer in Friuli has pushed the boundaries of biodynamic viticulture, although the estate is not certified biodynamic. Owner Joško Gravner has gone where no one else had previously dared in his pursuit of excellence. Despite their potential, Gravner was dissatisfied with the quality of his whites in the mid-90s and started experimenting with more extreme viticultural and vinification methods. The vineyards are farmed organically, with biodynamic practices; vines are planted at very high densities and give very low yields. The whites are now utterly outstanding. Bianco Breg, a blend of Chardonnay, Riesling Italico, Sauvignon, and Pinot Grigio, was a wine of considerable depth, concentration, and power, but 2012 was its final vintage. Gravner subsequently concentrated on Ribolla Gialla for his white wine and Pignolo for red. The resulting wines are a testament to the skill and brilliance of Josko Gravner and his team!

Michele Moschioni is already a living legend among his peers in Friuli, a man who works without compromise and crafts as naturally as possible with spectacular results. As expected, he uses only organic fertilizers in his vineyards, and Michele is a major advocate for using historic local varieties in Friuli. His wines are authentic, naturally made, and speak of their origins; the Schioppettino must be tasted to be believed! It offers a pure, seductive elegance and abundant spicy-sweet cherry fruit. Undoubtedly, it is one of the region’s most astonishing and impressive wines.