Brunello di Montalcino Wine Region Guide

Winemaking and regional classifications

Historically, Montalcino producers adhered to a paradigm strikingly similar to the winemaking philosophies of Barolo and Barbaresco. This involved a long and slow fermentation in oak or chestnut botte (large vats), with extended maceration on the skins. Thus, they extracted a great deal of tannin, color, and acid from this difficult grape – maturing it in large old Slavonian oak casks for several years helped to soften this austerity. Further aging in bottle could make Brunello di Montalcino approachable (we kid you not!) in about ten years after the harvest – occasionally longer. The result was a muscular, robust red supercharged with color, flavor, and impact. The library of vintages dating back to the 19th century at Biondi-Santi is a testament to the extraordinary longevity of this unique style.

But Montalcino is not immune to the vagaries of consumer fashion; today, people seek wines that they can enjoy at a relatively young age. In lieu of that reality, the mandatory four years in oak were reduced to two (the wine cannot be released until it is four years old), so modern examples showcase fruit alongside tannin. Certain winemakers have also taken to maturing their wines in new French barrique, creating a more standardized version with smooth tannins and that quintessential bouquet of cedar, tobacco, and vanilla. Are they better wines? Perhaps, but many firms, including Biondi-Santi, prefer the neutrality of used Slavonian oak barrels. The crème de la crème are Brunello Riservas, aged for five years before release. They are both rare and expensive.

Montalcino was also the first higher-tier appellation in Italy to permit the creation of a ‘junior’ appellation – Rosso di Montalcino. Founded in 1984, the DOC allows vintners to release a wine after only one year of aging instead of Brunello’s four. These lighter reds are easier to drink than their more established counterparts and generally represent an excellent value. But, in the eyes of collectors, they will always play second fiddle to the genuine article.

Geography and terroir

Although Montalcino lies just beyond Chianti Classico in the southern reaches of Tuscany, it yields a very different expression of the Sangiovese grape. This is largely because the zone is warmer and drier than Chianti, with breezy nights that ensure ventilation. Nevertheless, the summers are extremely dry – Monte Amiata, rising to 1,700 meters just to the south, protects the region from summer storms that come from that direction. Indeed, Montalcino has the double advantage of the sunny climate of the Tuscan coast and the rockier, less fertile soils of the cooler Chianti Classico zone. In top vintages, this results in the most concentrated and structured form of Sangiovese on the planet – wines that can outlive their owners!

In addition, although Montalcino is culturally similar to Chianti, the appellation has sandier soils and more limestone than those further north. Moreover, there are significant differences in vineyard elevation, resulting in a patchwork of mesoclimates and a pleasing stylistic divergence across the region. Some of the lowest-altitude climats (vineyard sites) in the south’s Val d’Orcia contain old vines that yield very potent and alcoholic reds at 150 meters above sea level. Most notably, the late Andrea Franchetti used these heavy clay soils to fashion superlative Bordeaux blends and even a dry Semillon! Meanwhile, in the northernmost reaches of the DOCG, soils are more calcareous and enjoy a cooler microclimate. Vineyard elevation can rise to 500m just south of Montalcino, where galestro marls yield a more perfumed and elegant expression of Brunello.

Today, there is a smattering of international grape varieties cultivated in Montalcino, including Cabernet Franc, Merlot, and Cabernet Sauvignon; Montalcino Super Tuscans are among the finest in central Italy. However, the Brunello di Montalcino DOCG framework only permits 100% Sangiovese wines – no exceptions. This stands in marked contrast to the more liberal approach of Chianti Classico, where they allow the incorporation of a small percentage of additional varieties into the blend. But local traditions eschew this approach, believing they can ‘smudge’ Sangiovese’s highly distinctive character. The combination of a stellar variety and the careful, labor-intensive, and expensive elaboration of the wine has made Brunello di Montalcino one of Italy’s most exclusive and most expensive wines throughout the twentieth century – a true favorite of collectors.

The lowdown

In the late 20th century, Banfi transformed a sleepy backwater into a thriving hub of fine wine and upmarket tourism. Within 15 years of their arrival, there seemed scarcely a piece of land not planted with vines, largely Sangiovese clones that can thrive in the region’s very hot and dry climate. Collectors remain enthralled with Brunello di Montalcino, paying almost any price for these immortal reds: all the best qualities of Sangiovese amplified under the Tuscan sun.

However, you should not limit your aspirations to Brunello di Montalcino. The region increasingly offers an eclectic palate of Super Tuscan wines, the best of which can rival Tignello and Solai in their depth and complexity. Initially sold as defiant Vino da Tavola, these outliers are nowadays marketed as Toscana IGT (Indicazione Geografica Tipica). This has empowered local producers to experiment with various grape varieties, including Cabernet Franc and Pinot Noir. After a process of trial and error, winemakers are fashioning wines that are complex, firm, and savory rather than simply voluptuous. The best are a worthy alternative to the more traditional reds of the appellation.

According to the late Andrea Franchetti, Cabernet Franc is Montalcino’s biggest – and most underrated – success story. “Cabernet France is a great ingredient in Bordeaux and Tuscany – greater sun exposure can transform its potential to make excellent standalone varietal wine,” once observed Franchetti. “Cabernet Franc is richer, more complex and the variety is far more durable than Merlot, particularly as it gets warmer in our changing climate.

In the 21st century, Cabernet Franc is now substituting the role of Cabernet Sauvignon as the prime red grape of Italy and southern Europe.” Succeeded by his son, Benjamin Franchetti, the family’s grand vision of producing exceptional Bordeaux varietals continues at the Tenuta di Trinoro estate. Situated at the entrance to the Val d’Orcia, Franchetti also grows Semillon to perfection here, producing one of the best examples of the grape outside of Pessac-Leognan. Meanwhile, Romitoro (Petit Verdot and Syrah, no less!), Mastrojanni, and Poggio il Castellare are making exceptional Super Tuscans with Italian brio and a judicious amount of oak.

Yet pundits and critics often drag up a false dichotomy: should a region focus exclusively on traditional styles and grape varieties or seek to innovate with bold new flavors? Montalcino demonstrates that you can do both. The proof, as ever, is in the eating.

Montalcino gastronomy

Rural Tuscany is all about fresh ingredients and seasonality: garlic, asparagus, baby artichokes in the spring, chestnuts, porcini mushrooms, game, and white truffles (perfectly shaved over pasta) in the fall/winter. Yet some of the region’s top culinary highlights are brilliantly unpretentious and readily available, such as porchetta rolls (warm sliced pork, fennel, garlic, and pepper served in ciabatta) and torta di ceci, which is a savory chickpea cake—a feast for the senses that is easygoing on the wallet.

A Guide to the Gastronomy and Cuisine of Tuscany: Read more