Galicia Wine Regions Guide

Winemaking and regional classifications

Galicia is one of Spain’s most heterogeneous vineyards, with five major appellations. And, notwithstanding the importance of aromatic whites to its export economy, innovation and diversification are always happening. Today, there is far more to northwestern Spain than pungent Albariño, delicious as it is. Experimentation with new varieties, aging in oak, maturation in amphorae, and tinajas (small clay jars) are all currently in vogue.

That said, Rías Baixas is still Galicia’s viticultural linchpin. Situated to the south of Santiago de Compostela, the region produces a great deal of Spain’s Albariño wines, occasionally blended with Caiño Blanco, Loureiro, and/or Treixadera. Generally fermented in stainless steel, most Rías Baixas wines conform to the stereotype: unoaked, saline whites for early drinking. There is no formal terroir hierarchy in Rías Baixas, albeit the DO is subdivided into five subzones: Val do Salnes, Condado do Tea, O Rosal, Soutomaior, and Ribera do Ulla. Some of the more expensive cuvées are aged in new French barrique – not always to their benefit. Yet a touch of maturation (in used wood) and lees aging can flatter Albariño, adding weight, richness, and texture. Red wines, however, are a tiny part of the wine-growing culture here.

But the picture in Ribeiro is quite different. In addition to aromatic styles, a small amount of red is made here, too, mainly from the Alicante Bouschet grape. Mencia, though, is the star attraction of Ribeira Sacra and Monterrei, typically subject to a gentle maceration to emphasize the grape’s lovely floral bouquet and sappy, elegant red fruit. In Valdeorras, meanwhile, it is Godello that steals the show. Many critics regard the variety as Galicia’s finest, capable of producing wines as profound and complex as the best of Puligny-Montrachet. They’re not wrong.

Geography and terroir

Stretching from the Atlantic to the border with Castilla y Leon, much of the Galician landscape still has a timeless quality. It is a region dominated by small-scale viticulture, and family-run domaines – glistening wineries and luxury tasting rooms are not yet commonplace in northwestern Spain. Indeed, some inland farms are divided into plots too tiny or steep for tractors to work, so horses are used for plowing. The bucolic countryside abounds with old granite villages and Pazos (traditional stone manor houses). Outside, vines are still often trained on pergolas, enabling the farmer to grow all manner of crops below.

There are five major wine-growing appellations in Galicia: Rías Baixas, Ribeiro, Ribeira Sacra, Valdeorras, and Monterrei. The most important DO, Rias Biaxas, is heavily influenced by its proximity to the Atlantic. As a result, sea mists regularly drift off the ocean and ‘invade’ the vineyards, even in summer. Thankfully, tall pergolas offer plenty of ventilation for the vines; fungal diseases can be a major problem in Galicia’s oceanic climate. Inevitably, the growing season in the exterior of the region is fairly long, characterized by warm temperatures in July/August and ample rainfall. This encourages a slow and balanced rate of ripening, hence the trademark crunchy acidity found in almost every Galician white.

However, there is a transition from a maritime to a continental climate as you move further into the interior of the landscape. Several of Galicia’s appellations, including Ribeiro and Ribeira Sacra, are sheltered from the Atlantic influence by the Sierra del Suido mountain range. As a result, it is quite possible to ripen red grape varieties in the region’s interior, especially the fragrant and supple Mencia. The soils of Galicia are also very heterogeneous: sand, alluvial matter, slate, clay, and granite can all be found.

The lowdown

They said the euphoria couldn’t last forever. They said that Galicia’s global image had to falter, not least because of the law of diminishing returns. Yet the region has gone from strength to strength; despite significant growth and expansion over the past 15 years, quality has yet to be sacrificed at the altar of easy money in northwestern Spain. The area under vine, once considered a small blot in Spain’s viticultural landscape, has ballooned to over 10,000 hectares. There are new wineries, ideas, and wine styles. Exports continue to rise, as consumer demand for vinous refreshment shows no sign of abating.

But most remarkably, Albariño now rivals Kiwi Sauvignon Blanc as the world’s favorite aromatic grape. Any wine style that can challenge Sauvignon’s hegemony has to be worthy of our respect. Once a marginalized and poor region, Galicia has established itself as the class act of Northern Spain. For starters, it has many proven strings to its bow: Albariño and Godello.

So the theme of today is what comes next? Should Galicia focus on its core strengths or expand into new categories and grape varieties on a much larger scale? Some stakeholders have voiced concerns about the rise of ‘copycat’ imitations from the New World: Albariño is becoming a niche favorite in California, Australia, and New Zealand. Nevertheless, the style of wine produced is quite different – richer and riper. There is little evidence that Galicia is about to lose its global USP. Still, certain winemakers believe the region needs a stronger point of differentiation.

As a result, growers continue to test the limits of maturing aromatic styles in barrique. They believe such wines will command a higher price, bringing more prestige to the region. But some of these overoaked wines are awful: the fruit is assaulted and pushed into the background. However, others show a sophisticated use of wood, adding texture and depth.

Of course, small oak barrels can’t mask a mediocre wine, but they can support and structure Galicia’s growing number of serious reds. Indeed, if one niche needs expanding, it is undoubtedly the production of Mencia. Endowed with moderate alcohol and beautiful aromatics, the grape has the potential to conquer the world. In another twenty years, the grape could be as important as Albariño. Watch this space.

Galician gastronomy

Galician food and wine is a marriage of equals. What could be better than Atlantic shellfish and a crisp glass of Albariño, served in every tapas bar in northwestern Spain! Yet there is nothing monotonous about Galicia’s vibrant food culture: year-round rainfall yields an incredible variety of fresh vegetables, while vast mountain ranges mean plentiful game, jamon, and cured sausages, often combined with pulses to form hearty stews. Of course, there is Michelin-grade cooking in Galicia, but traditional restaurants are wary of too much experimentation. The region is also a mecca for cheese lovers, producing some of the country’s finest soft cheeses, especially tetilla.

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