Valdeorras Wine Region Guide

Geography and terroir

Welcome to the “Valley of Gold.” Historians say this corner of the Ourense province may have been where the Romans planted the first grapes in Galicia. Yet wine production here remained a largely anonymous activity until recently. This damp, green corner of northwest Spain was traditionally very poor and virtually ignored by the rest of the country throughout the centuries. This and the region’s physical isolation meant that it was not until the 1990s that the stupendous wines of Valdeorras began finding an audience beyond Spain.

Terroir of Valdeorras

Nevertheless, the landscape and terroir of Valdeorras are exceptional: vineyards line the slopes along the banks of the river Sil on well-drained, alluvial soils. Elsewhere, granite and slate soils are particularly important, although limestone, clay and iron-rich soils also occur, producing some of the region’s most powerfully structured and aromatic Godello. Many prized vineyard sites enjoy a southerly or southeasterly aspect, cultivated on well-drained soils that climb to 700 meters above sea level. This offers an attractive combination of sufficient sunlight to ripen the berries, juxtaposed against cooler night-time temperatures and the resulting freshness and acidity in the wines; this is a common theme throughout Spain today.

However, this beautiful region stands apart from many vineyards in central and southern Spain; lush green pastures are punctuated by gently rolling hills, although this comes at the price of considerable rainfall. Even so, Valdeorras is generally drier than coastal Galicia! Indeed, the climate is best described as Mediterranean-oceanic, with Atlantic influences, cold winters and warm summers.

Climatic Advantage

However, the Sil Valley’s microclimate also plays a vital role here, sheltering vineyards from some Atlantic weather and providing a warmer growing season than much of western Galicia. As a result, the valley enjoys higher average temperatures and less rain during the relatively short Galician summer, ensuring that Godello is usually fully ripened by harvest time during the fall.

Winemaking and regional classifications

Rafael Palacios (brother of Álvaro) was among the producers who demonstrated that Godello could be treated with the same seriousness as Chardonnay. Both his signature labels – As Sortes and Louro do Bolo – are stunning wines and a vindication of his ambitious approach to the grape. If you’ve never tried these glorious whites, you must! They are complex and age-worthy wines that have few rivals in northwestern Spain.

Moreover, unlike many young Albariño wines, which are intended for relatively early consumption, Godello’s Chardonnay-like structure responds well to barrel aging and cellaring. At its best, the grape offers powerful spicy and green fruit aromas, soft tropical fruit, and keen acidity. But that distinctive ‘cut’ of minerality truly sets Godello apart from the competition.

Thus, winemaking in Valdeorras, at least among the top estates, relies heavily on the latest equipment and a sophisticated approach to fermentation and maturation. First, it all starts in the vineyard: the grapes may be carefully selected, cooled to preserve freshness and gently pressed to extract the juice. In the case of Louro do Bolo, this is then vinified in foudres (large oak vats) and left on its fine lees for several months before bottling.

Meanwhile, As Sortes is fermented and matured in 500-liter oak barrels; Godello can benefit from a surprising degree of oak in the winemaking, although some growers prefer the reductive nature of stainless steel.

Global Recognition

Over the last few years, critical attention and praise from critics such as Jancis Robinson have ensured that these wines have found a very willing clientele in discerning white drinkers worldwide. Demand for the finest Godello wines has grown considerably, although Valdeorras remains a relatively small appellation. But, of course, Valdeorras is not exclusively committed to Godello, although its commercial success as a region does reside with the variety. Small amounts of Palomino – the Sherry grape – remain, alongside lesser-known white varieties such as Lado, Treixadura and Torrontés. You are unlikely to see these fresh, grapey wines outside of Spain.

The reds, however, are a different matter – especially Mencía. Although it is a long way from attaining the fame of Godello, the grape’s sappy fruit and moderate alcohol have caught the attention of hipster somms in the US and northern Europe—a star beckons.

Under DO Valdeorras regulations, whites labelled Godello must contain 100% of the variety, while reds labelled Mencía must contain at least 85% Mencía. The appellation also permits rosé, traditional-method sparkling wines and naturally sweet Tostado wines made from dried grapes.

The lowdown

Forty-five years ago, Valdeorras existed in the shadows. Few critics or buyers took Spanish whites seriously; the nation was constantly pigeonholed as the land of Rioja, Cava, and Jerez. Of course, there was the odd exception here and there: Torres has been marketing a serviceable white called Viña Sol since the 1960s. But the idea of a thriving – and lucrative – industry dedicated to the export of premium white wines seemed like a fantasy in the mid-20th century.

High-Quality White Wines

And yet, here we are. A formerly poor and rural backwater has become one of Europe’s most important centers of high-quality white styles, ranging from the saline fruit of a good Albariño to the ripe and textured finesse of barrel-aged Godello from Valdeorras. Granted, the volumes cannot compete with certain New World regions and the behemoth that is Alsace, but Galicia has other tricks up its sleeve.

For example, it is one of the few European regions that can tempt sommeliers away from that ubiquitous creature called Kiwi Sauvignon Blanc. Indeed, if you glance at the best wine lists in New York, San Francisco, London, and Hong Kong, you’ll notice that Galician whites inevitably steal the show. This is because they offer an unbeatable combination of (relatively) good value, a generally high standard of winemaking, and a pleasing stylistic diversity that leaves Marlborough Sauvignon for dust.

So, today, there is no excuse for omitting Galician wines from your cellar. They will astound and delight you.