Monterrei Wine Region Guide

Geography and terroir

Monterrei is a world apart from the rain-soaked vineyards of Galicia’s coastal regions. Indeed, red and white varieties achieve full physiological ripeness in most vintages—something that cannot be said for Rias Baixas! This is due to the warmer continental climate of the interior and the proximity of the Sierra de Larouca mountain range, which acts as a rain shadow when the Atlantic deposits a great deal of moisture into the atmosphere. As a result, autumn in Monterrei can be pleasantly temperate and sunny, while other parts of northwestern Spain ‘enjoy’ a deluge of biblical proportions in mid-October.

Vineyards and Terroir

The vineyards are located in the southeastern corner of Galicia, on the border with Portugal. The hub of winegrowing activity takes place on the banks of the Tamega River, a tributary that flows into the Duoro. The DO is divided into two key subregions: Ledeira de Monterrei and Val de Monterrei. The region’s soils are very diverse, ranging from metamorphic slate to granite and colder clay.

However, the most important feature of the local terroir is site elevation and the concomitant diurnal temperature variation. In certain higher-altitude climats, growers will encounter a decline of up to 30 degrees centigrade at night – the secret behind Monterrei’s crisp whites and bright, floral red wines.

Winemaking and regional classifications

This is the modern miracle of Galician wine. Monterrei, a formerly ignored and backwater province, now produces various styles in a relatively compact geographical area. A benign climate, considerable investment, and a tradition of growing red varieties like Mencia made it all possible. Thus, the DO regulates the production of red and white wines, stipulating the permitted varieties in the blend and length of maturation.

Regulations and Styles of Monterrei Blanco

By law, Monterrei Blanco must contain at least 60 percent Godello, Treixadura, and/or Doña Blanca; the remaining 40% can constitute any particular mix of Albariño, Blanca de Monterrei, Loureiro, and Caino Blanco. However, many growers elect to market a single-varietal label, typically Albariño or Godello, as these grapes have the most clout in international markets.

In broad strokes, the white wines of Monterrei often have more weight and concentration than those of Rias Baixas, although much will depend on the terroir in question and winemaking. As elsewhere, different bodegas have radically different ideas about the use of oak in fermentation and maturation; Godello seems to benefit the most from a touch of aging in barrique.

Character of Monterrei Tinto

Likewise, Mencia is seldom ruined by a judicious period of oak maturation. Under the DO framework, Monterrei Tinto wines are based on at least 60 percent Mencia and/or Merenzao – most winemakers prefer to use the former as the dominant part of the blend. After that, they may incorporate up to 40% Tempranillo, Caino Tinto, and Souzao into the wine. Of course, 100% Mencia wines are far from uncommon, as some bodegas believe this first-class grape does not need a supporting act.

They could be right: Mencia can be absolutely beguiling, endowed with a striking bouquet of red and black fruits, garrigue, and minerals. It is one of Spain’s most delightful reds – floral and supremely elegant. As a Spanish alternative to Pinot Noir, Mencia has few peers.

The lowdown

The spectacular – and ongoing – price inflation in the Burgundy region is good news for appellations like Monterrei. It continues to drive buyers to explore new vineyards and destinations, seeking out not dissimilar flavors that can be sold to consumers at a more advantageous price.

But don’t get us wrong: we love the inimitable wines of Burgundy. Undoubtedly, the best Chardonnay and Pinot Noir in the world are made in this corner of France. Nevertheless, there is sometimes better value to be found elsewhere.

Godello: Galicia’s Answer to Meursault

Fortunately, Burgundy aficionados are bound to take great pleasure in drinking Galician’ versions’ of Meursault and Volnay. The former can be compared to Godello, particularly wines aged in barrique. Top-end Godello, like Chardonnay, offers great depth and complexity, with fruit and oak seamlessly merged into one harmonious package.

The wines have structure and concentration, showcasing ripe fruit and impressive length. They are refined and elegant – perfect with fish dishes, chicken, and shellfish.

Mencia: A Red Burgundy Parallel with a Value Advantage

Mencia also has much in common with red Burgundy. It all starts in the vineyard: Pinot Noir and Mencia are finicky grape varieties, susceptible to low yields, disease, and excessive heat. Yet they produce bottled magic in the cellar – wines of ethereal charm and unsurpassed finesse. The bright, crunchy red fruit of a good Mencia invokes the crystalline purity of a young Volnay or Chambolle-Musigny, fresh as a daisy and delightful to drink. But there is one important difference.

Prices in Monterrei have yet to enter the stratosphere, while blue-chip Burgundy is reserved for oligarchs. One bottle of Premier Cru Meursault or five bottles of Godello? You decide.

Monterrei gastronomy

If you love seafood, you’ll adore Galicia. The endless variety of Atlantic and freshwater fish is staggering, as is the sophisticated – and yet traditional – culinary art practiced by the region’s myriad of talented chefs. There are numerous excellent restaurants in every Galician city and town, although the most exciting options will inevitably be found in the capital, Santiago de Compostela. But to catch the atmosphere of any Spanish city, plunge straight into the tapas scene and follow the winding streets that contain scores of lively bars and bodegas. Hojaldre de salmon y queso (pastry with salmon and cheese) is heaven alongside a chilled glass of Godello.

Galician Gastronomy Guide: Read more