Monterrei Wine Region Guide
Introduction
The delicious white wines of Galicia are no longer an insider’s secret. On the contrary – Rias Baixas and Valdeorras have become international superstars, winning the hearts and minds of sommeliers and consumers across the globe. Indeed, there is scarcely a wine list in London, Sydney, Hong Kong, or New York that does not offer at least one or two labels from northwestern Spain. To marginalize Galicia is to commit commercial suicide.
Yet the region still has a few surprises up its sleeve. Monterrei is one prime example; this up-and-coming DO is a hot topic, not least due to its warmer macroclimate, exceptional soils, and significant diurnal temperature variation. Unlike Rías Baixas, where red varieties remain a very small part of production, Monterrei has a significant red-wine tradition alongside its whites.
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History

It is a historical irony that this nascent region (by contemporary standards) has been growing vines since antiquity. Archaeological evidence places winemaking here firmly in the Roman period: the agricultural villa of A Muradella at Mourazos, near Verín, yielded the sculptural group of Dionysus and Ampelos, while numerous stone presses and other remains attest to a long-established wine culture.
From the late 9th century onwards, religious orders played an important role in expanding viticulture throughout the region. By 1183, wine was sufficiently important to local life and commerce for the Carta Puebla de Verín to include provisions governing its use and sale. More than 60 ancient rock-cut wine presses have also been identified across Monterrei, many positioned close to vineyards and historic settlements.
Yet the 19th century brought the phylloxera louse, which devastated the region’s vineyards. This pernicious pest, inadvertently imported from the US, nearly wiped out Spain’s once-thriving wine industry. Thankfully, experts found a lasting solution by regrafting vines onto American rootstock in the early 1900s, as American plants had developed an inbuilt resistance to the pest.
The modern story has been no less dramatic. The Monterrei cooperative was established in the 1960s to improve winemaking and commercialize the region’s wines, eventually buying millions of kilograms of grapes from hundreds of local growers. But emigration, the cooperative’s closure, and the abandonment of unprofitable vineyards subsequently brought winegrowing perilously close to disappearing altogether.
A revival began in the 1980s as growers restructured the vineyards and increasingly focused on quality. Monterrei was recognized as a Denominación de Origen in 1992, with its regulations approved in 1994. In the following years, renewed investment in vineyards and cellars, along with the recovery of traditional grape varieties, drove a dramatic improvement in wine quality.
Geography and terroir

Monterrei is a world apart from the rain-soaked vineyards of Galicia’s coastal regions. Indeed, red and white varieties achieve full physiological ripeness in most vintages. This is due to the warmer continental climate of the interior and the proximity of the Sierra de Larouca mountain range, which acts as a rain shadow when the Atlantic deposits a great deal of moisture into the atmosphere. As a result, autumn in Monterrei can be pleasantly temperate and sunny, while other parts of northwestern Spain ‘enjoy’ a deluge of biblical proportions in mid-October.
Vineyards and Terroir
The vineyards are located in the southeastern corner of Galicia, on the border with Portugal. The hub of winegrowing activity takes place on the banks of the Támega River, a tributary that flows into the Douro. The DO is divided into two key subregions: Valle de Monterrei and Ladera de Monterrei. The region’s soils are very diverse, ranging from metamorphic slate to granite and colder clay.
However, the most important feature of the local terroir is site elevation and the concomitant diurnal temperature variation. In certain higher-altitude climats, growers will encounter diurnal swings of up to 30°C during ripening – the secret behind Monterrei’s crisp whites and bright, floral red wines.
Winemaking and regional classifications

This is the modern miracle of Galician wine. Monterrei, a formerly overlooked wine region, now produces various styles in a relatively compact geographical area. A benign climate, considerable investment, and a tradition of growing red varieties like Mencia made it all possible. Thus, the DO regulates the production of red, white, and rosé wines, stipulating permitted grape varieties and other production requirements.
In practice, two varieties dominate. In the 2025 harvest, Godello accounted for 81.05 percent of the white grapes picked, while Mencía represented 77.27 percent of the red crop.
In broad strokes, the white wines of Monterrei often have more weight and concentration than those of Rias Baixas, although much will depend on the terroir in question and winemaking. As elsewhere, different bodegas have radically different ideas about the use of oak in fermentation and maturation; Godello seems to benefit the most from a touch of aging in barrique. Monterrei also permits rosé wines, which must be made with at least 85 percent red grape varieties.
Character of Monterrei Tinto
Likewise, Mencía is seldom ruined by a judicious period of oak maturation. Of course, 100% Mencía wines are far from uncommon, as some bodegas believe this first-class grape does not need a supporting act. It is one of Spain’s most delightful reds – floral and supremely elegant. As a Spanish alternative to Pinot Noir, Mencia has few peers.
Facts & Figures
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Key wine styles
- Aromatic dry whites
- light red wines
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Appellation structure
- Monterrei DO
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Hectares under vine (2025)
852 ha
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Average annual production (2025)
5.33 million litres
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Approximate number of wineries (2025/26)
30
The lowdown
The spectacular – and ongoing – price inflation in the Burgundy region is good news for appellations like Monterrei. It continues to drive buyers to explore new vineyards and destinations, seeking out not dissimilar flavors that can be sold to consumers at a more advantageous price.
But don’t get us wrong: we love the inimitable wines of Burgundy. Undoubtedly, the best Chardonnay and Pinot Noir in the world are made in this corner of France. Nevertheless, there is sometimes better value to be found elsewhere.
Godello: Galicia’s Answer to Meursault
Fortunately, Burgundy aficionados are bound to take great pleasure in drinking Galician’ versions’ of Meursault and Volnay. The former can be compared to Godello, particularly wines aged in barrique. Top-end Godello, like Chardonnay, offers great depth and complexity, with fruit and oak seamlessly merged into one harmonious package.
The wines have structure and concentration, showcasing ripe fruit and impressive length. They are refined and elegant – perfect with fish dishes, chicken, and shellfish.
Mencia: A Red Burgundy Parallel with a Value Advantage
Mencia also has much in common with red Burgundy. It all starts in the vineyard: Pinot Noir and Mencia are finicky grape varieties, susceptible to low yields, disease, and excessive heat. Yet they produce bottled magic in the cellar – wines of ethereal charm and unsurpassed finesse. The bright, crunchy red fruit of a good Mencia invokes the crystalline purity of a young Volnay or Chambolle-Musigny, fresh as a daisy and delightful to drink. But there is one important difference.
Prices in Monterrei have yet to enter the stratosphere, while blue-chip Burgundy is reserved for oligarchs. One bottle of Premier Cru Meursault or five bottles of Godello? You decide.
Key Grape Varietals
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White grape
Albariño
The dominant grape of Rías Baixas, particularly in Val do Salnés. Its naturally high acidity and pronounced aromatics underpin the region's fresh, Atlantic white wines. View grape -
White grape
Caino Blanco
Caíño Blanco is a scarce Galician white grape with high acidity, floral aromas and apple notes, used in blends and occasional varietal wines. View grape -
White grape -
White grape
Godello
Godello is a Galician white grape known for freshness, perfume and texture, producing both crisp young wines and richer, age-worthy styles. View grape -
White grape
Treixadura
Treixadura is Monterrei's second most widely planted white grape. Later ripening than Godello, it produces aromatic, floral wines noted for their balance and elegance. View grape -
Red grape Caino Tinto
Caíño Tinto is a scarce red variety in Monterrei, valued for its fresh fruit and naturally high acidity and generally used as a blending partner. -
Red grape
Mencia
Mencía is an aromatic red grape from northwestern Spain, known for fresh acidity, red fruit, floral notes and supple tannins. View grape -
Red grape
Merenzao (Bastardo)
Bastardo, known as Merenzao in Galicia, is an early-ripening red grape capable of producing fragrant, relatively pale wines with ripe fruit, spice, and a supple texture. View grape -
Red grape
Sousón (Sousao)
Sousón is a permitted red variety in Monterrei, valued for its deep colour, acidity and ability to add structure to blends. View grape -
Red grape
Tempranillo
Tempranillo is Spain’s most widely planted red grape, producing wines with red and black fruit, moderate acidity and tannin, and an ability to develop complexity with oak ageing. View grape
Monterrei gastronomy

If you love seafood, you’ll adore Galicia. The endless variety of Atlantic and freshwater fish is staggering, as is the sophisticated – and yet traditional – culinary art practiced by the region’s myriad of talented chefs. There are numerous excellent restaurants in every Galician city and town, although the most exciting options will inevitably be found in the capital, Santiago de Compostela. But to catch the atmosphere of any Spanish city, plunge straight into the tapas scene and follow the winding streets that contain scores of lively bars and bodegas. Hojaldre de salmon y queso (pastry with salmon and cheese) is heaven alongside a chilled glass of Godello.
Galician Gastronomy Guide: Read more
