Castilla y Leon Wine Regions Guide

Winemaking and regional classifications

Where to start? Producers use Tempranillo grapes in the fashionable Ribera del Duero DO (modest amounts of other varieties are permitted in the blend) to make Spain’s most voluptuous and concentrated red. Grown on a mixture of limestone and loamy soils, Tempranillo produces a style of wine that is distinct from the classical Rioja package of soft fruit intertwined with vanilla; winemakers in Castilla y Leon usually subject their grapes to a lengthy extraction, with maturation in French barrique providing heft and structure. The result is a wine deep in color and rich in flavor, with enough tannin to satisfy any Bordeaux lover. But, thanks to the appellation’s famously cool nights (spring frosts can occur in May in Ribera del Duero!), all the best wines boast a lively acidity and bracing freshness. This is vital: it offsets the alcohol and richness of hot climate Tempranillo. Vega Sicilia, Pingus, and Pesquera, three of Spain’s most iconic labels, are made here. Yet there is no paucity of up-and-coming growers who jealously guard their parcels of old bush vines.

Likewise, winegrowers in Toro stake their reputation on the quality of their centenarian plantings of Tempranillo: gnarly old bush vines that deliver minuscule yields, especially when cultivated on the clay soils of the zone. But small berries equal massive flavor: Toro can be a beast of a wine, defined by brooding dark fruit and grippy tannins. However, the DO was not always held in high esteem by critics and sommeliers. In the 1900s, Toro was associated with rustic wines that could curl hairs, replete with harsh tannin. As ever, a surge of investment from outsiders – including the Alvarez family and LVMH – turned things around. As a result, the best wines are not usually blended.

It’s a similar story in the vineyards of Rueda, located to the southeast. Abuelos (grandparents) of Spanish Millennials would associate the region with ‘Dorado de Rueda,’ a dry liqueur wine showcasing nutty, oxidative flavors due to the prolonged barrel aging regime. But, of course, the demand for such wines is paltry today, while aromatic dry whites sell like fresh tapas. Rioja bodega Marques de Riscal started the trend in the 1970s, investing heavily in new facilities, vineyards, and techniques. The native Verdejo grape is now fermented in stainless steel to produce a worthy alternative to Kiwi Sauvignon Blanc. It is occasionally mixed with Sauvignon Blanc and aged in wood to beef up the complexity and mouthfeel.

Such an occurrence would be considered sacrilegious in Bierzo, a trendy northwestern Castilla y Leon enclave. Mencia reigns supreme in this part of the world, a grape that shares certain parallels with Pinot Noir. Indeed, like the signature red grape of Burgundy, Mencia is usually (but not always) subject to a gentle maceration, producing a very elegant red with supple tannins and lovely freshness. If any oak is used, they will go light on the amount of new barrique – or avoid it altogether. But, as ever, terroir is king in Bierzo: the top climats flank the banks of the River Sil, planted at higher elevations. It is also a pioneering force in terroir classification, while Ribera del Duero has yet to dip its toes in the Burgundy water.
Meanwhile, the small DO of Cigales, just north of Ribera del Duero, has much to offer. It is another beacon of investment and progress, with raw talent, old Tempranillo bush vines, rocky soils, and high-elevation sites. If you like unctuous and ripe reds with plenty of stuffing, you’ll love Cigales.

Geography and terroir

Castilla y Leon cannot be explored in a day. Or a month, come to think of it: the region occupies a vast geographical area to the northwest of Madrid. Covering the northern part of Central Spain’s enormous tableland, this central plateau encompasses various sights and landscapes. Granted, the wheat fields and plains appear to go on forever, but there are also mountains, gorges, forests, and lakes to be explored. But most important (at least from an economic perspective) are the vineyards of Castilla y Leon’s premier wine zones. The various appellations are separated by large distances, encompassing the northwest tip of Castilla y Leon, the banks of the Duero River stretching east of Valladolid, and the plains that flank Zamora in the midwest. So expect a multitude of soils, vineyard elevations, and aspects.

This makes generalizations about terroir in Castilla y Leon a near-impossible task. The only unifying factor is the climate: most regions enjoy very dry, hot summers and cold winters. In July and August, rainfall is almost nonexistent in northwest Spain. But the ‘dirt’ varies enormously, from the calcareous and loamy soils of Ribera del Duero to the red clay of Toro. The area’s most important appellations – Ribera del Duero, Rueda, and Toro – all benefit from diurnal temperature variation due to the abundance of high-altitude sites. This refers to a marked difference in temperature between day and night that helps preserve the grapes’ acidity. Without the benefits of altitude, producing fresh and balanced wines in the dry landscape of Old Castile would be very difficult indeed.

The lowdown

Castilla y Leon wrote the book on rejuvenation. More than any other Spanish region, it has surpassed expectations in developing a quality-focused – and innovative- wine industry in a relatively short time. Claro que si: the plains of Old Castile are brimming with robust reds, aromatic whites, oak-aged Verdejo, and silky Mencia wines. The only niche that Castilla y Leon has yet to conquer is the traditional method sparkling wine. But, in this parched landscape, that’s probably a good thing. Castilla y Leon is one of Europe’s driest areas, with irrigation necessary in almost every DO. Not the ideal environment to craft fresh fizz.

Indeed, the climate is at the forefront of debates about the future of wine growing in Castilla y Leon. It is becoming hotter; Spain is experiencing a terrible drought, which can lead to hydric stress, exhausted vines, and pitiful yields. Moreover, with limited water supplies, growers may find that vital moisture is denied to their crops, as the more serious human need takes precedence over agriculture.

Fortunately, producers are not entirely helpless in the fight against global warming. Good canopy management is essential: plants must not be aggressively pruned to ensure enough vegetation can shield the berries from excessive UV light. However, it is important to get the balance right, as too much growth will mean ever scarcer moisture available for the vine’s berry metabolism.

Soil health is another key factor: growers in northern Italy roll green manure between the vine rows to maintain as much moisture as possible in the subsoil. And, if all else fails, producers can dose their vineyards with a good dollop of ‘sunblock.’ Spraying the vine canopies with a chalk solution known as kaolin is increasingly practiced in regions worldwide, protecting the leaves and berries from excessive sunlight and heat. Just another example of how the wine industry has pioneered sustainable science for the benefit of winegrowers everywhere. In Ribera del Duero, embracing such innovation is no longer optional. It is now an essential part of the growing calendar.

Castilla y Leon gastronomy

The restaurants of Castilla y Leon are a rich source of gastronomic pleasure. They stake their reputation on diversity: although the meseta is widely associated with roast suckling pig and milk-fed lamb, the finest restaurants will plate up specialties from every Spanish region, along with superb fish that can be on the table within a day of being caught. Game, such as wild boar and partridge, is plentiful throughout Castilla y Leon, as are spicy sausages and mouthwatering tapas – Valladolid is your best bet. There are several excellent Michelin-starred venues in northwestern Spain, although many chefs maintain a homely, robust cooking tradition with various rich roasts and stews. Heaven in winter, hell in summer.

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