Alto Piemonte & Lake Maggiore Private Wine Tour

Your private chauffeur will meet you at Milan’s Malpensa airport (or Turin) and sweep you away to the ethereal lakes today. Welcome to Italy! Your first stop is cheese heaven. You’ll be visiting the hugely famous and modest Carlo Guffanti (of Luigi Guffanti 1876) in the pretty town of Arona, an ancient Roman settlement and now a pleasure resort on the lake. Prepare to be astonished by the scale and quality of the cheese in Guffanti’s underground aging caves.

This ultra-high quality cheese affineur has been run by the same family since the 1870s and is one of the most prestigious in Italy and further afield in Europe. The visit is a joyful affair, and your host could not be more pleasant and more passionate. Seize the opportunity to taste delicacies like “blufalo” (water buffalo milk blue cheese), “Capra in Foglia” (goat’s cheese in grapevines), “Formaggio di Grotta Sulfurea” (Pienza Pecorino sheep’s cheese ripened in caves dug out of sulfurous rocks) and gooey “Montebore” from Piedmont- to name a few. The wine will flow as fast as Carlo’s anecdotes- this is a great experience to kick off your gourmet week.

Head to Stresa next to settle into your luxury palace hotel right on the lakefront. The rest of the late afternoon is yours at leisure to catch up on jet lag or keep going with a long promenade along the elegant shoreline. It’s also fun to take the cable car to the top of Mottarone (called the ‘Mountain of the Two Lakes’ because of the outstanding views over Lakes Maggiore and Orta). There is a stop on the cablecar halfway up the mountain at the Alpinia botanical gardens, which offer incredible vistas of the Swiss Alps and is a mega photo stop.

Tonight we have an extraordinary dinner planned for you! You will travel to idyllic Isola dei Pescatori (Fisherman’s Island) by private boat and can rev up your appetite with a passeggiata before dinner. This darling spec of an islet is so cute it looks like a movie set! The narrow streets and alleyways are lined with red-roofed traditional houses with long balconies that the fishermen once used for drying the day’s catch. Fun fact: the island was featured in Hemingway’s “A Farewell to Arms” when the main character Frederic Henry stops here to have a vermouth. A candlelit table facing the water will be waiting for you at Verbano, where Chef Patrick Merlotti cooks flawlessly executed classics with a modern twist. Fish is on the menu, with local ingredients from the surrounding valleys and mountains, and the various courses will be paired with matching wines.

After a convivial evening, board your boat to take you right to your hotel’s jetty and have a restful evening.

There aren’t enough adjectives to describe the refinement and charm the Borromean Islands exude, and this morning you will explore them on a private guided boat tour. Lake Maggiore was incorporated into the personal fiefdom of the aristocratic Borromeo family in the late 1400s, and even to this day, they still own the extravagant villas and gardens on the namesake islands. Luckily they open them to the public and can be enjoyed by all.

First up is Isola Bella. In the 1630’s Count, Carlo III Borromeo had the vision of creating a lavish villa and magnificent gardens for his wife, Isabella, on this island, when it was uninhabited and home only to barren rocks. A local plague stopped the building for a few decades and resumed by his sons in the second half of the century. The magnificent gardens came first and were inaugurated in 1671 by Carlo IV, a patron of the arts. The palace came next and took 200 years of unlimited expense to be completed to its current Baroque accented glory. Palazzo Borromeo has hosted many important royals and dignitaries over the years, from Napoleon and Josephine to the Princess of Wales, Caroline Amalia of Brunswick.

Visit the extensive grounds and exuberant palace with your expert guide, who will entertain you with tales and tidbits of local history. For instance, from the water, the island resembles a ship (some say a tiara)! Sail on to Isola Madre next, the largest island of the group, where your private guide will show you around the historic botanical gardens. Admire the Narnia-like white peacocks, the colorful parrots, the exotic and rare sub-tropical plants, and Europe’s largest Kashmir cypress.

After a stimulating morning of sightseeing and fresh air, you’ll be starving, and we’ll reserve a lovely table for you to order a la carte (as dinner is included tonight) in the darling village of Cannobio, which you will sail to in your private boat. The boat is available until the early evening, and your captain will assist you in getting you to your waterfront restaurant (such as Lo Scalo).

After lunch, we suggest a stroll around Cannobio before sailing on to another adorable town like Locarno with its maze of cobblestoned streets in the ancient center. You will have many photo ops from the boat and the option to stop for visits to a few other locations, time permitting, of course. Our suggestions would include the medieval Rocca di Angera castle with its splendid collection of historic toys, curated and funded by Princess Bona Borromeo.

Another possibility is the extraordinary hermitage of Santa Caterina del Sasso. This sanctuary is built directly into the mountain cliff and hanging right over the water, climbing the 80 steps up from the boat and seeing the porticos and convents up close are a “must,” and you will feel like an extra in a James Bond film.

Last but not least, you can visit the marvelous Villa Taranto gardens in Verbania. Built into the Castagnola promontory, the villa was originally built in 1875 by Count Orsetti but became derelict until a wealthy Scottish captain with a penchant for gardening bought the site. He proceeded to bring in over 20,000 exotic plants from the tropics, including giant Amazonian water lilies and lotus blossoms. Today, the gardens are meticulously manicured, and a walk through them is soothing and extremely pleasant.

Before dinner, you will have a few free hours at the hotel to relax, rest, and freshen up after a glorious day. You will love the two Michelin starred restaurant tonight. Situated on the itsy bitsy Mergozzo lake, you have a glamorous gourmet dinner. In store, the best table in the house at Piccolo Lago will be organized for you, and we hope the riveting views of lakes and mountains don’t distract you from your meal. Chef Marco Sacco cooks innovative, sophisticated, but also comforting cuisine. Creative dishes include his “Cacio e pepe di lago” (spaghetti flavored with Missultin, a local dried fish). The experience here is a significant memory maker!

Italian wine lovers will know the mythical names of Barbaresco and Barolo; both made with the Nebbiolo grape in Langhe, Southern Piedmont. But how about Boca and Bramaterra, or Ghemme and Gattinara? These fascinating and ancient wine regions in Northern Piedmont are also planted with Nebbiolo, called “Spanna” locally. Some of the country’s most skilled winemakers are creating a wine revolution with some groundbreaking wines. And what luck- you will be visiting two of the best properties today on an unforgettable wine tour!

Your morning begins at Le Piane in Boca, where Swiss owner vintner Christoph Künzli is an absolute wine legend. “Boca” is both a wine village and a DOC appellation. The vineyards stretch out over the forested hills of the Novara province beside the Sesia River, through the towns of Boca, Grignasco, Prato Sesia, Maggiora, and Cavallirio. Nebbiolo grapes have long been grown here and highly prized, but its heyday ended about a century ago with industrialization and depopulated after WWII. Many Nebbiolo producers decided to travel to Langhe to make the more lucrative and expensive Barolo wine style, and the vineyards were uprooted over many decades.

Luckily, several visionaries saw the potential of a “comeback” for the wine style and are now making some of the finest wines in Italy. Nebbiolo is blended with a smaller percentage of local Vespolina to make the signature Boca wine style, and Künzli ages his beauties in Slavonian oak (from northeastern Croatia). The results are award-winning, long-aged icon wines, and you will enjoy a full tasting of top bottlings.

Then it’s lunchtime, and you will sit down to a cozy meal at one of our fave eateries in the area, Ristorante Pinocchio. Talented, mustached chef Piero Bertinotti is a hoot, known for his refined versions of local specialties. Taste ingenious dishes like “Uovo in piedi con mandorle in bagna caoda delicata” (Standing egg with almonds in delicate bagna caoda) and “Taglierini alle more su pescatrice in carpaccio caldo, falso pepe del Perù e fragoline di bosco” (Blackberry taglierini with monkfish “hot” carpaccio, false Peruvian pepper and wild strawberries). The sunny dining room is ever so inviting with high, timber-beam ceilings and views of the garden.

Following a delightful three-course lunch with excellent wines, of course, carry on to the Lessona/Bramaterra wine lands. A private tour and tasting await you at Tenute Sella, the oldest winery in the region. Established in the 17th century, this is a classy, family operation. Soak up the history of this atmospheric estate and the feeling of a “secret treasure.” Learn about the unique vineyard soils composed of Pliocene-era sand from marine deposits and marine fossils. This highly rated (90 points+ Wine Enthusiast) winery uses old-vine Nebbiolo as the main grape in their red wines (with smaller percentages of Vespolina, Barbera, Croatina, and Cabernet Sauvignon) in their red blends. They also make an exciting range of rosé (Nebbiolo), white (Erbaluce & Riesling Renano), and aged sparkling wines. Take a fun wine flight of their best offerings in each wine style.

In the late afternoon, head back to Stresa for a free evening with our suggestions.

Risotto is a mouth-watering, delicious specialty of Northern Italy, and this morning you will have a neat visit to the Vercelli rice fields. Benedictine monks introduced rice in the 15th century, and Vercelli is the home of the best rice in Italy. Essentially this area is the “rice basket” of Europe. Short-grained Carnaroli is the predominant rice varietal grown here. You will have a chance to visit an artisan rice mill to learn about the production process and the rice fields with a local family Cascina Valdemino, who has been cultivating rice since 1904.

Then see how the experts make risotto in an informal and relaxed private cooking class. The focus will be on their region’s three-hundred-year-old Panissa Vercellese recipe. This risotto dish is completely decadent, made with rice and beans cooked in local red wine and salami. Savor the gorgeous risotto after the class as a tasting lunch, and don’t miss the chance to buy a few kilos of their rice to take back home.

The rest of the afternoon will be dedicated to wine education, and you will be visiting two producers from the superb Ghemme DOCG and Gattinara DOCG wine appellations. These two high-quality wine zones make wines on a par with some of the best Barolo wines, and like in the Langhe, the Nebbiolo grape reigns here (where it is called “Spanna”). And like in the Barolo wine lands, the red wine made here is full-bodied, intensely perfumed, and long-lived.

Your first stop is at the Antichi Vignetti di Cantalupo estatein the pretty hills of Novara (Colli Novaresi) in Alto Piemonte. The Arlunno family has lived here and worked the land since the 1400s, but it was only in 1969 when Ghemme gained DOC status that the family decided to build the new winery and replant the old vineyards. Since then, they have become one of the premier producers of this region, which later gained the maximum quality status of DOCG in 1997. Winemaker Alberto Arlunno is making some exciting cru wines here now, and on a private tour and tasting, you will have the chance to try their best bottles.

Finish the wine tasting afternoon, then in the Gattinara at the cult winery, Travaglini. Adored by wine connoisseurs across the globe, Travaglini is also known for its unusual and unique bottles. While this family-run winery was founded in the 1920s, it was in the 1950s that they came up with one of the most brilliant and practical marketing ideas- make the bottle function like a decanter. Due to the long aging potential, Giancarlo Travaglini created their signature curvy (or “crooked”) bottle shape, which ingeniously acts like a decanter when on its side. When you pour the wine “pancia in giù,” or belly-down, the dips in the bottle collect the sediment. It’s a great story, great wine, and a great family you won’t forget anytime soon.

After a private tour and tasting, it’s back to your historic villa resort, and the evening is free at leisure with our suggestions for dining.

French writer Honoré de Balzac described Lake Orta as “a pearl, enclosed by the green treasure chest of the Piemontese hills,” and this perfectly sums up what you can expect today on your explorations of this demure, unspoiled, tiny gem. You will meet your driver and enjoy the short scenic drive 40 minutes west to Orta San Giulio and then spend the morning visiting the medieval village of Orta San Giulio and the ethereal San Giulio island.

The setting is almost absurdly beautiful. Lake Orta has long attracted international writers and poets, including the aforementioned Balzac, Nietzsche, Samuel Butler, Lord Byron, and Robert Browning- all taken in by its mystical charm. There is a charming, British-run poetry festival on the lake every September which attracts poets from all over the world who come here for inspiration and creative exchange. And there is so much to love, from the cobblestoned lanes lined with ochre-colored Renaissance villas and palazzos to the Baroque townhouses adorned with hanging flowers and the hidden gardens behind every corner.

Walk up to the Sacro Monte di Orta, and gasp at the views over the evocative Isola di San Giulio. Then hop on the little ferry boat over to the island for a walkabout. Named after the patron saint, St Julius, this small island features a wonderous Romanesque basilica, a Benedictine abbey, and a 19th-century bishop’s palace. Cars are banned so that you can stretch your legs on a relaxing walk along the lush, signposted “way of silence and meditation.” The legend goes that St Julius crossed the crystalline lake on his cloak over to the island in the 4th century when it was plagued by snakes, monsters, and a ferocious dragon. He is said to have vanquished the monsters by divine intervention, founded his 100th church, and converted the local pagans to Christianity. A curious anecdote here is that there is an actual vertebra of an enormous animal in the basilica’s sacristy. Depending on who you speak to, it is either the bone of the dragon or of a lake dinosaur.

After this fascinating morning, you will be famished, and we have a gourmet extravaganza planned for you at one of the most special Michelin starred venues in Italy- Villa Crespi. On the shores of Lake Orta, this magical, arabesque villa is straight out of a fairytale! Inspired by Middle Eastern architecture, even including a Baghdad-replica minaret, this palace and the surrounding gardens were erected in the late 1800s by an extremely wealthy cotton merchant, Cristoforo Crespi. The villa houses a small boutique hotel and the three Michelin-starred restaurant where you will be dining today. Run by Chef Antonino Cannavacciuolo and his wife Cinzia, this is truly a remarkable experience. Get ensconced at your lake-view table, and take in the sophisticated ambiance. Lunch is the chef’s tasting menu, paired with an array of exciting Italian wines. Sit back and let yourself be pampered!

After an unhurried meal, you might like to have a digestive stroll through the grounds. Your driver is at your disposal this late afternoon for sightseeing and shopping. If you love refined Italian design and homeware, there is a fabulous Alessi outlet nearby. And the cute village of Pella on the western shore of the lake is an excellent stop for an espresso or Campari spritz. The evening is free then at your resort, and we suggest a light dinner there; you won’t be starving after the terrific, long lunch.

Mitigate the gourmet goodies of this week with fresh alpine air today, and some light (to moderate or more challenging) hill walks today. Wear comfy shoes! You will be exploring the “Walser country” in the Valle Anzasca. The Walser people are mountain farmers who descended from the Wallis (Valais), who had settled in Switzerland’s Rhône valley (Valais canton). They later spread out in the 12th and 13th centuries to modern-day Liechtenstein, Austria, and a few far-flung valleys in the mountains between Lake Maggiore and Switzerland. Some villages in this area of the Italian Ossola Valley still speak “Titsch” (Walser German dialect). These Walser “colonies” have a unique culture with their culinary traditions, folkloric clothing, traditions, and songs in their dialect.

There are seven picturesque valleys of Val d’Ossola- Anzasca, Antrona, Antigorio, Formazza, Isorno, Bognanco, Divedro, and Vigezzo – all carved into the Alps, and following the course of the River Toce and its tributaries that lead to Lake Orta. This is the most northern part of the Piedmont region, bordering Switzerland, in Verbano-Cusio-Ossola. Are you confused yet about the geography? All you need to know is it’s gorgeous, and you will be visiting the Val Anzasca, including the darling hamlet of Macugnaga. Don’t forget the camera as this is one of the quaintest villages you will visit on this trip. It’s a chocolate box, pastoral dream, framed by the imposing Monte Rosa in the background. This is total Walser country, in an awe-inspiring landscape.

You will have free time with your driver to explore the hamlet and the chance to visit the genuinely endearing Walser museum. Before lunch, we can organize some walking (with or without a trekking guide) and provide advice on paths based on your fitness level and interest in walking or hiking). If there are any WWII history buffs in your group, the Val d’ Ossola is of particular interest because of the Italian Partisan Republics and the resistance warfare.

Cheese lovers, you have found your paradise here in this glorious part of the world, and a cheesemaking tour will be included at one of our favorite artisan farm restaurants, Agriturismo Alpe Burki. They have been using the most natural and precious alpine ingredients for six generations and offering simple, sublime cuisine in a dramatic setting under the Monte Rosa glacier, where you are immersed in nature. The best part is getting there, as it is located at 1600 meters above sea level and only be reached by chairlift or on foot (30-40 minute walk from the village).

Here you will taste zero-mile farmhouse cheeses, as well as their charcuterie and famous polenta while gawking at those views. After lunch, there are a ton of entertaining possibilities. You can take the chairlift one more stop up and admire the views and have a walk. Or take a detour on the way back to Stresa for a wine tasting in lovely Domodossola. If you are interested in gold, a quirky visit is to the artisan gold workshops of the valley, reflecting the gold mining that took place in the Ossola valleys (particularly in Anzasca Valley) in the 18th and 19th centuries. So it’s your choice- shopping, hiking, or more wine tasting.

The evening is free in Stresa to pack and relax, and to finish this tour on a high note; we will set up a fun rum and chocolate tasting at the villa resort!

Your chauffeur will pick you up at your preferred time and transfer you to your outbound airport or the next port of call. Should you like to extend this itinerary with another region in Northwest Italy, we can gladly suggest incorporating more days in nearby Turin, Monferrato, Langhe wine country, Milan, Lake Como, and Valle d’ Aosta. We hope you had an amazingly unforgettable food and wine vacation in Lake Maggiore, Lake Orta, and the Alto Piemonte wine country!