Croatian Uplands Wine Region Guide

Croatia’s Hidden Cool-Climate Heartland: Fresh, Precise Wines from the Slopes Beyond Zagreb

Introduction

If you’re accustomed to the azure-blue coastal scenery of Dalmatia, prepare for a shock. The Croatian uplands (northwestern Croatia) are both viticulturally and topographically a different world. This is the Croatian interior, stretching in all directions from the nation’s handsome capital, Zagreb. Boasting five key Protected Designations of Origin (PDOs) and some very talented winemakers, this is both an emerging region and one of the country’s premier cool-climate zones. Today, Bregovita Hrvatska produces a growing volume of dry white wines – and exceptional sparkling wines – that emphasize freshness and aromatic precision rather than weight or power. Indeed, the region’s wines are strikingly contemporary in style, yet they are difficult to find outside Zagreb and the surrounding areas. Relative anonymity remains its Achilles heel – and paradoxical strength.

This is slowly changing, however, as buyers and sommeliers look beyond the coast’s tourist-centric vineyards for hidden gems and astounding bargains. A treasure trove of indigenous varieties – including Kraljevina and the ever-reliable Graševina – only enhances the appeal. In the center of Croatia’s continental heartland, a close-knit community of growers and artisan producers – for there are few industrial-scale wineries here – continue to farm steep slopes that have been worked for centuries. This is a wine culture with few counterparts in the Balkans today: modern, confident, yet largely hidden from international eyes. It deserves a closer look.

Author

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James Lawrence

With a passion for food & drink that verges on the obsessive, wine writer James Lawrence has traveled the world in search of the perfect tipple. To date, nothing has surpassed the 1952 R. Lopez de Heredia Vina Tondonia Rioja Reserva, tasted in the cobweb-filled cellars with owner María José. Meanwhile, James has been writing for a wide variety of publications for over 12 years, including Telegraph, Decanter, Harpers, The Drinks Business, and Wine Business International. He lives in South Wales and returns to his former university city, Bilbao, as much as possible.

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