Liguria Wine Region Guide

Geography and terroir

Italy’s rich history of native grapes is best preserved in the dramatic hills of Liguria, where ancient traditions have been augmented by modern technology; the best of both worlds. The region’s most famous grape, Pigato, joins an ensemble cast of weird and wonderful varieties, including the super-rare Bosco and spicy Rossese.

They are cultivated in a narrow strip of land that connects the French Riviera with the heart of Tuscany. Liguria is undoubtedly the most beautiful part of northwest Italy. Terraced vineyards, great food, pristine beaches, and a turquoise sea—sounds like heaven on earth to us.

Challenges of Winegrowing in Steep Landscapes

Yet, regular visitors to Tuscany and Piedmont are often blindsided by the region’s unique wine culture: everything is on a much smaller scale in the steep landscapes of Liguria. This is mainly because of the hilly inclines  (responsible for protecting sea-facing vines from glacial mountain breezes in the winter) and lack of flat land significantly limit the potential acreage; some vineyards can only be accessed by boat, requiring months and months of hard labor.

As a result, vine density is exceptionally high in Liguria, planted on rocky slopes that shadow the Mediterranean. It is little wonder that tourists flock here in their millions every year.

Today, the total vineyard area is just over 6000 hectares, although only 500 hectares are dedicated to producing DOC wines. Although dozens of indigenous grapes are cultivated in the broader region, white styles rule the roost here.

The signature white grape of the area, Pigato, yields small berries of highly concentrated fruit in the infertile soils of Liguria: calcareous terroirs are very common in the zone, much to the benefit of wine quality. Rich in minerals, they offer a good water retention and permeability balance.

And, as visitors will attest, the pine-wood and saline aromas of a good Pigato are a divine match to local gastronomic delicacies – oysters, king prawns, grilled fish, and charcoal-seared lamb. In every sense of the expression, Ligurian food and wine complement each other perfectly.

Winemaking and regional classifications

Liguria offers diverse wine styles and esoteric flavors, ranging from bone-dry Pigato to late-harvest Muscat Blanc. Indeed, the warm Mediterranean climate and favorable aspect of these coastal vineyards have no direct parallel in Italy.

They allow growers to produce aromatic dry whites and voluptuous reds. Family-run estates and local cooperatives dominate Liguria. It is a place where artisans hone their craft and corporate ownership is actively discouraged; a place where tradition and innovation coexist with great ease, an example for others to follow.

Take, for example, the production of DOC Colline di Levanto and the famous DOC Cinque Terre. The grapes authorized by the respective appellations—Bosco, Albarola, Vermentino, Sangiovese, and Ciliegiolo—have been planted in these steep hills for hundreds of years, so the traditional blends have scarcely altered during that time.

Yet there is no shortage of modern equipment and stainless steel in Liguria—the vast majority of dry whites are fermented in steel tanks at low temperatures and bottled relatively soon after the harvest.

Maturation in oak, meanwhile, has never been a key part of the winemaking culture in Colline di Levanto and Cinque Terre. They are the local versions of Kiwi Sauvignon Blanc, served with grilled fish on the steep coast near the dynamic city of La Spezia. Their job is to refresh your palate with a fruity zip and zing rather than showcase layers of oak-derived complexity, which is precisely what discerning visitors and locals crave.

Exploring Lesser-Known DOCs

Other less-known coastal whites include the wines of Golfo del Tigullio DOC (red and rosé styles are also permitted) and the very obscure Riviera Ligure di Ponente DOC, running from the city of Genoa to the French border. Bianchetta Genovese and Pigato are again the mainstays of local white blends; Dolcetto and Ciliegiolo are combined to create Golfo del Tigullio Rosso styles.

Like the vineyards of Cinque Terre, local conditions—sea breezes, high-altitude sites, and limestone-rich soils—are highly conducive to quality wine growing. In extreme cases, vineyards in Riviera Ligure di Ponente can reach elevations surpassing 750 meters, although most are planted between 300 and 400 meters above sea level. Thus, the vines enjoy all the benefits of diurnal temperature variation, with warm days and cool nights.

The resulting white wines are reliably firm, aromatic, super-fresh, and pungent, with the smell of garrigue and citrus. Some producers prefer the (now fashionable) technique of fermenting whites in contact with the grape skins, combined with low temperatures to preserve Vermentino’s distinctive fruit.

Meanwhile, the Golfo del Tigullio and Ligure di Ponente reds range from bright and floral styles to deeply colored, full-bodied, and complex wines, uniquely expressing ancient varieties and soils. You can taste the esoteric blends of Colli di Luni (hills of the Moon) and Val Polcevera DOCs in the osterie of Genoa; finding them elsewhere is hard.

However, the most impressive Ligurian wine is arguably the red Rossese. This noble grape yields delicate yet spicy concoctions in northwest Italy – inviting to smell and refreshing to drink. It reaches an apogee in the appellation Rossese di Dolceacqua DOC, where clay-limestone soils and high elevations produce very ethereal and complex red wines.

And, unlike Barolo and Brunello, it does not require any bottle age to reach its full potential. The same advantage applies to the soft-fruit reds of Dolcetto, known by their local synonym as Ormeasco. The vineyards of Ormeasco di Pornassio, situated at the western end of Liguria and flanked by the Italian Alps, always produce the best examples. Rising to 800 meters above sea level, these climats (vineyard sites) can struggle to ripen the berries in cooler years. But, in a good vintage, they will yield Dolcetto wines of incomparable finesse and charm.

IGT designations

In addition to the key DOC appellations, a large volume of wine is marketed under the auspices of the IGT (‘Indicazione Geografica Tipica’) framework. These include Terrazze dell’Imperiese, Colline Savonesi and Colline del Genovesato IGTs. A broad spectrum of wine styles fly under the IGT banner, including the spicy red Granaccia, made from an Italian descendant of Grenache Noir.

There are also some very drinkable dry whites, rosés, and a small quantity of passito dessert wines for a dwindling (but appreciative) audience.

Liguria gastronomy

Liguria offers a feast for all the senses, be it chaotic trattorias in Genoa’s heart or seaside dining in the pastel-colored villages of Cinque Terre. It is the birthplace of pesto—or, more accurately, pesto alla Genovese—a delicious paste that merges crushed garlic, olive oil, pine nuts, basil leaves, and grated hard cheese to spectacular effect. It is usually served with pasta, a real local standby.

Yet, there is far more to Ligurian cuisine than this internationally famous pasta sauce. In the surrounding countryside, a bounty of fresh produce (not least zucchini, eggplants, and artichokes) shares living space with nuts and wild mushrooms, foraged as the last grapes are being picked in the fall.

Meanwhile, Coniglio alla ligure is an exquisite braised rabbit dish cooked with pine nuts, olives, wild herbs, and red wine. Of course, we can only offer a snapshot of the gastronomic riches that await visitors to the rugged terrain and historic cities of Liguria. You’ll have to come and see for yourself to discover what else is in store!