Calabria Wine Region Guide

Geography and terroir

Calabria’s rugged coastline and wild mountain interiors are unlike any other Italian or any other vineyard in Western Europe today. Have you visited the Medoc? If the answer is yes, then you’re already familiar with its endless rows of manicured vines and stately chateaux – calm serenity and high-class tourism. Calabria, however, is a whole other world. It is an undeveloped and rural destination where farmers make a living from growing cereals, citrus, olives, and grapes. Meanwhile, the Ionian and Tyrrhenian seas provide a gorgeous backdrop to the region’s authentic seaside villages – tourism has relatively little consequence for daily life here. If you want an unsanitized version of the Dolce Vita, look no further.

This becomes very apparent when you take the Autostrada del Mediterraneo from Campania to the heart of Calabria, passing through mountains and forests shadowed by the Azure-blue Tyrrhenian Sea. The latter is partly responsible for the area’s very mild winters, although it also helps moderate the intense heat of July and August; drought is a major problem in southern Italy and is worsening. Indeed, there is barely any rainfall (less than 44mm in July) in the ripening season, when hydric stress can cause leaf burn and even halt photosynthesis altogether. The solution? There is only one: extensive irrigation that drip-feeds vines enough moisture to survive. In addition, some relief is provided by the spine of the Apennine Mountains – they provide a physical barrier to the hottest winds that blow down from the north. Without it, quality viticulture would be impossible in the toe of the Italian boot.

However, growing vines in this arid climate have advantages. One plus is the very low risk of downy and powdery mildew; organic viticulture becomes a distinct possibility in such a disease-free environment. This can only benefit overall wine quality: less synthetic input leads to happier and healthier plants. Yet the incredibly steep mountain terrain largely causes the high fragmentation of land ownership in Calabria. This region comprises cooperatives, small farms, and the occasional larger producer.

Today, vine growers have planted approximately 8,824 hectares of vines on Calabrian soil, often dispersed across the foothills and lower slopes of the Pollino, Sila, and Aspromonte mountains. They belong to several obscure and not-so-obscure DOC appellations, including Greco di Bianco, Terre di Cosenza, and Cirò. The latter is arguably the only DOC with any international renown, situated on the eastern coast. Planted on calcareous marls and cooled by sea breezes, indigenous grape varieties such as Gaglioppo and Magliocco Canino yield velvety and robust red wines: dark, voluptuous, and tannic. If the region needed a poster child for its enormous potential, Cirò would be at the top of a growing list.

Winemaking and regional classifications

The wines of Calabria, hitherto ignored, are an inspiring work in progress. A growing firmament of younger winegrowers—talented, insatiably curious, and highly motivated men and women—has driven much of the positive change. Their mission is to bring the esoteric and authentic flavors of Magna Graecia to the world. Armed with a detailed understanding of local terroirs and their willingness to experiment – the natural wine movement has stolen a march with younger growers in southern Italy – this dynamic group are winning over key influencers in the trade.

It’s about time. There is no shortage of vinous excitement lurking in the nine DOCs that occupy the Calabrian landscape, some of which have been planted to vines for over six millennia. This observation especially applies to Cirò, a wine that gained significant popularity in the 1990s following its discovery by prominent buyers in the United States. This is primarily thanks to the hard work of the Librandi. This family-owned firm produces elegant and beautifully structured reds from the Gaglioppo grape and dry whites from Greco Bianco (no relation to Greco di Tufo).

According to the appellation rules, the red and white styles can incorporate a small percentage of additional varieties; however, the native Gaglioppo and Greco must account for a minimum of 80 percent of the blend. Nevertheless, certain producers are minded to include a small volume of international grapes to add perfume and freshness – Cabernet Franc and/or Merlot in the case of Cirò Rosso. The Riserva Superiore category, meanwhile, represents the apex of Calabrian winemaking. It must be aged for at least two years before it is sold.

Yet many of the region’s best wines, exemplified by Librandi’s Megonio and Gravello, are marketed under the IGT Calabria Rosso banner; the flexibility of the IGT framework makes it an attractive choice for pioneering young guns in southern Italy. However, while the ‘non-interventionist’ school is gaining traction in some quarters, the winemaking culture of most export-focused wineries is relatively standardized. Librandi, for example, relies on the tried-and-tested method of cool fermentation in stainless steel, followed by 12 months in Allier barriques for the top cuvées. One of our favorite wines is the richly textured Efeso white, vinified and matured in wood for six months and left on its fine lees – how very Burgundian! A landmark white for a region on the move.

However, the excellent and diverse wines of Terre di Cosenza DOC are increasingly a source of stiff competition. Introduced in 2011, the appellation regulates the production of wines of all three colors, including a small (but growing) volume of sparkling. With the small city of Consenza as its base, the surrounding hills are planted to a mixture of red and white varieties: native grapes like Greco Bianco and Magliocco are more worthwhile than the often anodyne Merlot and Cabernet that is produced in western Calabria. Still, the maritime-influenced vineyards of Consenza can yield some delectable (and original) wines, incredibly potent blends of Magliocco and Gaglioppo. Its numerous subzones, Pollino, Colline del Crati, Condoleo, Donnici, Esaro, San Vito di Luzzi, and Verbicaro, once held DOC status in their own right. However, they were absorbed into the overarching Terre di Cosenza DOC in 2011 for administrative simplification.

However, Calabria’s most original style is undoubtedly the iconic passito wines of Greco di Bianco, produced in a southeastern corner of the region under the shadow of the Aspromonte mountains. Named after the pretty village of Bianco itself, the wine is an incredibly strong, tangy, and sweetly perfumed essence made from desiccated berries rich in sucrose and ripe acid. With a bouquet of orange blossom, citrus, and garrigue, it is an ideal match to the super-sweet dolce of Calabria, torrone (nougat), and the surprisingly delicious ‘ciciriati’– chocolate, chickpea, and nut cookies no less.

Calabria gastronomy

Calabrian gastronomy epitomizes everything we love about southern Italy: an unpretentious and life-affirming celebration of life’s simple pleasures. Nduja, the spicy, spreadable sausage that works so well with pasta and pizza dishes ( in addition to being smeared over crostini), is the most outstanding example of this hearty approach to cuisine – straightforward to prepare and utterly delicious.

Yet there is nothing pedestrian about dining out in Calabria, particularly in the lively centers of Consenza and along the Ionian Coast. Sink your teeth into cavatelli con cozze e fagioli (pasta with mussels and beans), tagliatelle with porcini, and anything that happens to have been plucked from the sea. Grilled swordfish and Terre di Cosenzabianco? Now you’re talking.