Bucelas Wine Region Guide

Geography and terroir

In the 20th century, vineyards planted in Lisbon’s ‘backyard’ were part of the Estremadura region, a strip of land flanked by the Tagus and the imposing majesty of the Serra Montejunto hills. Yet the catch-all term Estremadura is no longer used, as winegrowers increasingly emphasize points of difference rather than homogeneity. A recent development (in the wider area) is the reincarnation of the ubiquitous variety Castelão. Once derided as acidic plonk, Castelão is now being used to make very fresh and Burgundy-inspired red wine – crisp and crunchy. This is the new face of Portuguese exports, and consumers love it.

The vineyards are situated north of Lisbon – day trips are obligatory if you visit this wonderful city. Bucelas, meanwhile, has a temperate climate that is the envy of all southern Europeans; vineyards benefit from cooling coastal breezes that are a daily occurrence in the Atlantic-influenced climate of Bucelas. “As a historical and renowned designation of origin, it is a place of excellence for Arinto grape variety,” says Diogo Sepúlveda, head winemaker responsible for Sogrape wines in Bucelas.

“The soils are predominantly composed of limestone (white) rock origin, combining perfectly with the high Atlantic influence (foggy mornings, high amplitude of temperatures, cool and humid winds from the coast). The result is a slow ripening and high natural acidity of the grapes, essential to the profile of our wines.” Indeed, the appellation’s key strength is aromatic still whites: this is the ideal place to ripen berries slowly, achieving that wonderful balance between acid and fruit. The best sparkling blends, however, are no less fine.

Winemaking and regional classifications

The Bucelas DO was created at the beginning of the 20th century, in 1911. Yet, despite the considerable passage of time, the framework remains the same. Bucelas is a straightforward appellation for the production of white wines, still and sparkling. As a result, most producers market their labels as Bucelas DO, unlike many growers in Alentejo, for example. According to the DO rules, the most-planted white grape, Arinto, must account for three-quarters of the final blend. Occasionally, winegrowers add a certain percentage of Rabo de Ovelha and/or Sercial to enhance structure and mouthfeel. But Arinto is always the driving force in local whites. The finest sparkling wines, meanwhile, are always made via the traditional method.

Ultimately, winemaking in Bucelas is relatively unremarkable. Most growers seek aromatic finesse and the purity of expression that flows from unoaked white wines. Therefore, most wineries embrace a protective winemaking paradigm:

• Careful handling of the must
• The exclusion of oxygen
• Fermentation at low temperatures in stainless steel

Maturation on the fine lees is sometimes used to add richness and depth to the wine. Yet the market demands fresh, perfumed whites with brilliant fruitiness and clean flavors.

The lowdown

According to the late geographer Harm de Blij, viticulture and urbanization are “both allies and adversaries.” Indeed, vineyards that spread out in all directions from the capital offer a topical case study of the ongoing tensions between urban development and traditional wine growing. Certain land owners, lured by the promise of easy money, have sold their estates to property developers on both sides of the Tagus. On the other hand, there is enormous pressure to build more homes in Portugal due to a massive shortage of affordable housing stock. And we cannot deny that providing more houses for younger people and families is a noble aim.

But there is an equally strong argument for keeping regions like Bucelas alive. There is a case for expanding the area under vine rather than curtailing it. As producers worldwide grapple with global warming, the shift towards cooler climate viticulture can only rise. Bucelas’ gift to oenologists is its proximity to the Atlantic: the ocean provides a natural barrier to excessive heat during the summer season. This enables growers to slowly ripen their crop without sacrificing acid at the altar of phenolic ripeness. Winemakers in the hotter parts of Alentejo would give their right arm for such conditions. Before too long, some may uproot and join the Bucelas revival story.

Bucelas gastronomy

Food and dining out is a religion in Portugal, especially in Lisbon’s bustling, dynamic capital. Many visitors to Bucelas elect to have their main meal in Lisbon – understandable, as the city is rammed with exceptional restaurants that cater to all budgets. From pastéis de bacalhau (savory codfish pastries) to the iconic custard treats, Portugal is a paradise for the discerning gastronome. As you would expect, freshly caught seafood features heavily in local cuisine: grilled sardines will be served everywhere, from rustic haunts to Michelin-starred venues. Fried cuttlefish, bouillabaisse, langoustines, and crab are also major highlights. Suffice it to say all the best wine lists are found in Lisbon.