Luxury Retreats in Ireland
For the last few weeks, we have been on the road, burning rubber across the island to find luxurious country retreats and historic hotels. We visited all kinds of wonderful places from Design Hotels (see our favorite designer hotels here), Country Guest Houses, Manor Homes, and Palatial Estates, and of course, some Irish castles!
Here is a list of our top picks, which we include in our private chauffeured gourmet tours of Ireland
BEST MANOR HOTEL – ADARE MANOR
Adare Manor is one of the most stunning properties we have seen in Europe! Built-in the early 1800s for the 2nd Earl of Dunraven and his wife, Lady Caroline Wyndham, it is a beautiful Victorian Gothic mansion (plenty of bay windows, gargoyles, etc.) with a few quirks (for example, there are 52 chimneys- one for every week of the year). The ivy-clad manor rests in an absolutely gorgeous estate of more than 800 acres of manicured gardens (with a beautiful Cedar of Lebanon), parkland, and a river flowing around the hotel. Brown trout can even be fished year-round on-site; Adare Manor has a private gillie for guests. Golfers also know Adare Manor for its 18 Hole Championship Golf Course (which regularly hosts the Irish Open) designed by the mythical Robert Trent Jones Senior. Their Manor Oakroom Restaurant run by head chef Mark Donahue is high-end traditional cuisine with a discreet, creative twist. When we visited this past weekend, dishes on the tasting menu included Roast Atlantic Scallops with a Thermidor glaze of endives and red onions; roast quail and crisp air-dried Irish pork; and roast breast of Guinea Fowl filled with foie gras mousse. The atmosphere in the dining room is romantic with its original oak panels, high ceilings, and flickering candles. Adare Manor web
Address: Adare, Co. Limerick, Ireland
BEST CASTLE HOTEL – DROMOLAND CASTLE
Our expectations were not extremely high, as while visiting other properties, we had found that many castle hotels live off their name, similar to some of the Paradors in Spain, and rooms tended to be dated and tired. What a surprise when we arrived! Not all hotels have a history dating back to the 11th century and can claim to be the ancestral home of one of the few Royal Gaelic families (Brian Boru, the High King of Ireland). The list of famous guests is long and distinguished, including the last few American presidents and a host of celebrities. This gorgeous property is located in the west of Ireland, about an hour south of Galway and two hours northwest of Cork, and a few minute’s drive from Shannon airport. It stretches out over 400 acres of lush parkland with a soft rolling golf course (JB Carr & Ron Kirby), sparkling lake (complete with ducks), and beautiful tree-lined paths. High Tea is served from 3-5 PM in elegant salons that wind around the castle’s first floor. We loved the Earl of Thomond dining room, very atmospheric and pretty and serving Haute Irish cuisine (think Roast Monkfish with black pudding risotto and langoustine & asparagus salad). The latest novelty at Dromoland is a fabulous spa, using the Irish – Voya- line of products whose products are made with an organic seaweed base. Treatments could include a – Tangle Me Up- seaweed body wrap, for example. We love this place.
Address: Newmarket-On-Fergus, Co. Clare, Ireland
BEST GARDENS – BANTRY HOUSE
Wow, location location location. Mama mia, this hotel (really a luxurious B&B) is set in an absolutely idyllic spot. Located in cute Bantry in West Cork, you drive in from the coast about a kilometer through thick woodland before arriving at the Bantry House, surrounded by luxuriant gardens. We arrived late, and the gracious owner himself welcomed us. We later found out that Mr. White is the actual descendant of the original owners who had the mansion built in the 1700s! Our gorgeous room faced the formal gardens and had the most comfortable bed I have slept in, I think in years! There is an old-fashioned billiards room with an honor bar and all kinds of games from scrabble to Mahjong and an adjoining salon with a cozy fire. Gin Tonics beside the fire after a walk in the gardens are a must. We had an informal dinner at their little cafe-style bistro but for finer dining head to O’Connors Seafood Restaurant. The Bantry House, while not ultra-luxurious, is one of the most unique places we have stayed, and the views from the gardens over the bay are simply priceless.
Address: Bantry House, Bantry, Co.Cork, Ireland
BEST LUXURY HISTORIC HOTEL WITH SPA – THE PARK, KENMARE
Kenmare is one of the cutest little gourmet villages located in the southwest of the Kerry region. And the much loved Park Hotel is still gorgeous, run by some of the best hospitality professionals we have had the pleasure of meeting. This Victorian landmark hotel faces Kenmare Bay and houses what is considered to be one of the best spas in Ireland, if not Europe. The Samas spa is a real experience and is part of the Park experience. Some of the Samas rituals include a basalt hot stone therapy and the 2-hour ladies ritual (with deep facial cleansing and hypnotic acupressure massage). The beautiful and peaceful location of The Park in this beautiful corner of Kerry lends itself to a stay focused on relaxation, and indeed many guests enjoy simple pleasures like yoga and jogging, followed by cocktails and fine dining in their delicious formal dining room or head to Kenmare to local gems like Packies restaurant.
Address: Park Hotel Kenmare, Kenmare, Co Kerry, Ireland
BEST LUXURY HOTEL FOR FISHING – SHEEN FALLS, KENMARE
In Kenmare is the extremely comfortable Sheen Falls Lodge property, which we also loved for its dramatic riverside location, services, and superb staff. The Danish owners revamped a historic hunting lodge dating back to the 1600s, although most of the hotel is (tastefully) new. This pampering hotel is a member of Relais & Chateaux and understands luxury and how to spoil its guests. The hotel will organize a champagne picnic served by the lake after a scenic drive in a vintage Buick dating to the 1930s, for example. Or for our wine-loving clients, a private wine tasting in their impressive cellar with their knowledgeable and friendly sommelier. The suites here are great and overlook the cascading waterfalls, and they have thought of everything. A major focus at the Sheen Falls is fishing, and they are very proud of their private gillie, who will also act as a private river guide.
Address: Sheen Falls Lodge, Kenmare, Co.Kerry, Ireland
BEST COUNTRY HIDEAWAY- CARRIG HOUSE
We had the best dinner I think we have had in over a year here at this adorable tiny country house on Caragh Lake in Kerry. Simple dishes like baby lamb chops and roast turbot were cooked to perfection and out of this world!!! This converted 19th-century hunting lodge is located in a hidden corner of tiny Caragh Lake near the Ring of Kerry and is very romantic and cozy. While we stayed here in summer, it would be great to go back in winter and relax in front of the fire and enjoy long walks and gorgeous dinners with brandies to follow in the front salon. The room to go for is definitely their presidential suite with views opening onto the lake and a delicious bed they personally brought over from India.
Address: Caragh Lake, Killorglin, County Kerry, Ireland V93 WK83
BEST GOURMET GETAWAYS
The Allen family is the most famous culinary family in Ireland. Darina Allen is the Julia Childs of Ireland, and Rachel is a celebrity TV chef- both sell bucket loads of cookbooks. Of course, they offer those world-famous cooking demonstrations and professional classes nearby at their organic farm cookery school. The house is where foodies can overnight (decor is simple country chic) and, above all, eat! The beautiful dining room is most atmospheric at night with a roaring fire, and the food here is all sourced locally (much of it from their own farm) and daily. We enjoyed an excellent lunch here just a few days ago and can definitely sing their praises. We tried mackerel fished from Ballycotton (a few miles down the road), tender organic steak, and free-range organic chicken (both from their own farm) in a delicate tarragon sauce- simple and very, very good. We look forward to sending you here and to our other favorite corners of Ireland!
Address: Ballymaloe House, Shanagarry, Midleton, County Cork, P25 Y070
We had heard great things about this delightful country house in idyllic County Tipperary, and it is literally the most enjoyable night we have had in years- and we travel/dine out and stay at great hotels for a living! Located in the quiet village of Clogheen in the foothills of the Knockmealdown Mountains in the famous Vee, it’s a truly beautiful part of the country. Colorado native Christine and local chef Dermot Gannon bought this historic property dating back to the late 1800s in 2005 with the intention of creating the kind of place they themselves would love to stay at an adults-only (i.e., for couples who need a night away on their own), food-centric luxurious and pampering country house. They have created something extraordinary indeed. We arrived in the late afternoon and (thankfully) decided to do a pre-dinner walk to get our appetites going. The house is a short walk to the tiny village, and there is a lot of history here and a charming local pub where we had a great chat with the friendly publican.
Before sitting down to our 8-course gourmet Irish artisan tasting menu, we met and chatted with other couples in the super cozy living room, there is a convivial air in the place, and your spirits are boosted in this house! Dinner was stunning, dish after dish of gorgeousness. They have a nice and varied wine list with names from all over the world, including a tempting wine from Lebanon, but we settled on an old-time favorite, Condado de Haza Reserva. Breakfast the next day was probably the best breakfast we have ever enjoyed outside of our own house. Spelt waffles with maple syrup and local bacon, Baked Garden Fresh Hens Eggs with Organic Smoked Salmon and St. Tola’s Goats Curd & Goatsbridge Caviar were just a few of the delicacies on offer. Needless to say, after breakfast, a serious walk was in order, and luckily, the Old Covent is a short drive to some of the loveliest hill walks in the region, which we were grateful for after so much rich cuisine! If we were to recommend a country house in Ireland, this would be it! Great for romance, too, with the claw foot bathtubs, four-poster beds, and dreamy setting…
Address: The Old Convent, Mount Anglesey, Clogheen, Cahir, County Tipperary, Ireland
We drove from gorgeous County Kilkenny to the gentle, bucolic region of Carlow. Idyllic rivers crisscross historic villages, and this is an extremely authentic pretty area hardly touched by tourism. The main industry is small-scale agriculture, and there are some gems to discover here. We really loved the tidy town of Leighlinbridge with its Norman castle and Valerian bridge, and the eccentric Huntington Castle and Gardens are fun (the castle is said to be haunted, and they even do a candlelit ghost tour!). We arrived at Kilgraney House, a historic Georgian home stylishly updated with ethnic decor worldwide. After enjoying an aperitif by the fire in the romantic drawing-room, we sat down to dinner. Seven courses of dinner! Highlights included wild mushroom risotto and the citrus panna cotta. Most ingredients are sourced from the estate, and the dishes are made with all seasonal ingredients. In the morning, we enjoyed a tour around the beautiful gardens; the owners offer gardening courses. They are on the Carlow Garden Trail, and it would be fun to go back and do a course, along with one of the aromatherapy treatments they are famous for. For design lovers, Kilgraney will tick all the right boxes.
Address: Kilgraney House, Borris Road, Baganalstown, County Carlow, Ireland.