Montepulciano Wine Region Guide

Geography and terroir

Montalcino’s neighbor to the east invites day trips from Siena – these sloping vineyards are less than 45 kilometers away from that handsome city. But despite a growing reputation – don’t worry, it’s a long way off Chianti in August – Montepulciano remains a tranquil hill town of great charm surrounded by vines, ancient wine estates, and cypress trees. Today, there are approximately 1,800 hectares under vine in the appellation, sandwiched between the Ocria and Chiana Rivers. The vineyards that flank Montepulciano itself, many of them planted in the sandy clay soils of gently sloping hills at around 600 meters above sea level, are sunny and well-drained, promoting a favorable maturation.

Yet there are many high-quality terroirs to be found across the zone, extending south to within touching distance of Chianciano. As in Montalcino, variances in altitude create a patchwork of mesoclimates that will heavily influence the final wine style. Many of the best sites are at 250-600 meters elevation, which helps moderate the summer heat ubiquitous in this sunny Mediterranean climate. Meanwhile, average rainfall hovers around the 740 mm per year mark. For that reason, many growers regard the steep slopes to the southeast of Montepulciano as the region’s unofficial ‘Grand Cru’ vineyard. Here, vines will slowly ripen small berries packed with fruit and acidity. In contrast, grapes cultivated at lower elevations will ripen relatively quickly, producing voluptuous (if occasionally flabby) expressions of Vino Nobile di Montepulciano.

The critical mass of vineyards in Montepulciano are planted to local clones of Sangiovese, called here Prugnolo Gentile, and some other indigenous and French grape varieties. Vino Nobile’s Prugnolo-based wines are often blended with up to 30 percent Canaiolo, Cabernet Sauvignon, and/or Merlot; white varieties can compose just 5% of the total blend. However, a growing number of reds are made with 100 percent Sangiovese.

Winemaking and regional classifications

Winemaking traditions in Montepulciano are a close facsimile of the regulations and practices governing Chianti Classico production. Like that region, Sangiovese can be legally blended with imported and/or native varieties, albeit the Vino Nobile di Montepulciano DOCG permits a maximum of 30 percent – 10 percent less than Chianti. Of course, some producers prefer 100%, while others believe that Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon add much-needed color and body to Sangiovese wines. This ensures that no two bottles are entirely alike, one of the appellation’s most important USPs.

Historically, every Vino Nobile di Montepulciano bottle was aged in Italian botti (large wooden vats) for several years. This would help soften the austerity of Sangiovese’s notoriously astringent tannin without absorbing any new oak flavor. But times have changed, and minimum oak aging periods have been reduced to just one year in wood for both normal and Riserva versions. Shadowing the culture of Montalcino, French oak (not necessarily new) has become popular in certain quarters, in addition to shorter maceration times and fermentation in stainless steel at controlled temperatures; the result is a less chewy and more fruit-driven expression of Vino Nobile di Montepulciano.

Yet, with ever-varying blends and aging times (determined by winemaker preferences that go beyond minimum stipulations), it is not easy to describe a ‘typical’ Montepulciano red. But, we find that wines from this area tend to have a piquant, spicy edge to them, with rich fruit and firm tannins. Also revered are the Rossi di Montepulciano wines, made with the grapes of younger vineyards near Montepulciano. While aged for less time and generally less expensive than Vino Nobile, these wines are often just as exciting as the noble wines, thanks to their fruity and appealing youthful aroma.

The lowdown

Montepulciano has much to offer the Italian oenophile. There is a long and proud tradition of growing Sangiovese in these hills, blended to various degrees (or not) to fashion a high-quality red of great finesse and longevity. In blind tastings, the superior qualities of a good Vino Nobile often shine through; it is not uncommon for Vino Nobile di Montepulciano wines to receive higher scores than their counterparts from Montalcino. Yet many wine lovers are still minded to ask: why bother with Brunello’s less famous cousin? Why should I leave my comfort zone for this admittedly “pleasant” local red?

The answer is that Montepulciano is one of Tuscany’s best-value purchases: a sumptuous red that becomes wonderfully velvety with age. Moreover, we should add that producers tend to make wines that are more accessible in their youth than Montalcino – the pervading warmth of southern Tuscany leaves no shortage of expressive ripeness. Indeed, the best examples reveal the typical aroma and flavors of Sangiovese while toning down the tannins compared to the Brunellos made nearby and smoothing out the acidic notes of many Chianti Classicos.

It is an irresistible package when benchmarked against a young Brunello di Montalcino’s (sometimes) burly concentration and tannic force. The zone is also an important source of brilliant Super Tuscans who look to the Maremma for inspiration—led by the historic house of Avignonesi, a growing band of growers mix and match varieties to their hearts’ content. At the same time, several of them have branched out to the Cortona DOC zone to the immediate east. As you’d expect from one of Tuscany’s most dynamic regions, there is no lack of organic and biodynamic wine estates.

Still, many seasoned critics look to the past when finding pleasure in Montepulciano. They would argue that Tuscany’s greatest triumph – or at least a strong contender – is the luxurious sweet wines known as Vin Santo. At their best, Montepulciano’s take on this Tuscan delicacy is orange-colored, smoky, nutty, and richly delightful, made typically from Grechetto, Malvasia, and Trebbiano Toscano. The grapes are carefully dried in well-ventilated premises until December after the harvest to concentrate the sugars; fermentation and maturation take over three years for the basic version, extending to over eight for Vin Santo di Montepulciano Occio de Pernice (eye of the partridge). No cellar should be without this vinous treasure – a window into Tuscany’s past.

Montepulciano gastronomy

If you’re searching for the ideal gastronomic pairing, look no further than the southern expanse of the Montepulciano zone. The prized T-bone steaks (“bistecca alla Fiorentina”) from cattle raised in the valley have no equal in Tuscany: the depth of flavor is incredible and profound. Ideally, enjoy a charcoal-cooked steak alongside a mature vintage of Vino Nobile Riserva just as the sun sets over the valley. Afterward, ask your waiter for some pecorino or ravaggiolo – some of Italy’s finest cheeses, hard and butter soft, are made in the Val di Chiana.

A Guide to the Gastronomy and Cuisine of Tuscany: Read more