Maipu Wine Region Guide

Geography and terroir

Named after a revolutionary struggle for independence (Maipu celebrates the Battle of Maipu, in which an Argentine general defeated the Spanish), this burgeoning subzone has cultivated vines for over 500 years. This rich history, dating back to the Spanish missionaries who first spotted Maipu’s enormous potential, is a testament to the region’s enduring legacy.

They planted high-yielding varieties like Criolla Chica in its stone-covered soils, laying the foundation for The productive viticulture that thrives in the vineyards of Spain’s New World.

The contemporary face of Maipu, however, is very different. While lavish praise is (justifiably) heaped upon the Uco Valley subregion, the vineyards south of Mendoza city are also generating much excitement among the Argentines; Maipú is the home of Catena Zapata’s Angélica Vineyard, named after his mother. Meanwhile, Achaval Ferrer and Luigi Bosca have invested in Maipu, drawn to its well-drained gravel terroirs and warmer mesoclimate.

Today, there are 10,891 hectares under vine, located on the southern outskirts of Mendoza’s handsome capital. Extending south to the Mendoza River (responsible for essential irrigation water), it encompasses the climats of Barrancas, Lunlunta, and Coquimbito – Barrancas has been awarded a distinct appellation in recognition of its unique qualities. To the west is Luján de Cuyo and its highly regarded Malbec vineyards; San Martin’s less quality-orientated producers are found to the east.

Irrigation and Climate Challenges

These highly diverse subregions nonetheless share a common characteristic: they experience low annual rainfall levels due to the rain shadow cast by the snow-capped Andes. Thankfully, the mountains generate (thus far) enough meltwater to keep the river from drying up in the summer – temperatures can exceed 100°F in January and February. Drip irrigation is essential for the plant’s survival: the timing and amount of moisture released can make or break a harvest in Mendoza.

Maipu is also renowned for the high volume of gravel on the topsoil, a characteristic that is fairly unusual in Argentina’s alluvial terrain. This unique feature may explain why Bordeaux varieties tend to thrive in the zone, which is responsible for producing some of Argentina’s finest Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon wines.

Planted in infertile soils and subjected to carefully timed irrigation, the vines can yield very small, highly aromatic berries rich in tannins and anthocyanins. The abundance of intense UV light can lead to very high alcohol levels in the wines, adding another layer of complexity to Maipu’s winemaking process.

Altitudinal Advantages

The relatively warm department of Maipu, however, does share an important advantage with its neighbors: high altitude. Rising to 850 meters above sea level, the vineyards benefit from the cooling Alpine winds blowing off the Andes, which slow down the plants’ metabolism in conjunction with diurnal temperature variations. This unique combination of factors results in a climate that is ideal for wine production. Thus, overnight temperatures are low enough to produce wines of good acidity and freshness, even in the sunny climate of Mendoza.

In the late 20th century, Maipu’s vignoble was dominated by Argentina’s signature grape varieties: Malbec, Torrontes, and Pedro Ximenez. Yet French grapes, including Sauvignon Blanc and oak-aged Chardonnay, play an increasing role in the zone. Nevertheless, Maipu is essentially a red wine country. Cabernet Sauvignon and Malbec blends can surpass Uco Valley’s immense concentration and complexity when yields are restricted. Sebastián Zuccardi, meanwhile, has become a leading spokesperson for Argentina’s original grape varieties.

Zuccardi says:

“The Criolla grapes are part of our identity as a wine country and arrived in the region thanks to the Jesuits about 500 years ago, we are rediscovering their potential by seeking out older parcels that survived the Malbec and Cabernet revolution. Along with championing wines that show a sense of place, this is another important revolution we are having in Argentina.“

Winemaking and regional classifications

According to Sebastián Zuccardi,

“Minimal intervention’ winemaking and sustainability are all the rage in the vineyards of Mendoza today. One of the key trends that is influencing winemaking is the move towards fermentation and aging in concrete, with no wood whatsoever (or using large foudres or very old barrels) in order to produce wines that are authentic and reflect their origins.”

He describes this paradigm as “thinking about the vineyard and the place where the grapes are grown.”

This cultural shift is to be applauded. Many of South America’s top labels have traditionally sought maximum impact with ripeness, concentration, and oak levels. These potent reds, reminiscent of Napa Cab, can be impressive and routinely garner high scores from US critics.

Yet, the wines could be even better with a little more restraint and less wood impact. This philosophy is more in tune with the zeitgeist, as (certain) consumers reject high alcohol and brute force in favor of lighter wines.

Of course, Maipu is no Burgundy. The area’s warm climate, combined with intense solar radiation, is undeniably conducive to producing full-bodied wines of considerable alcohol; red varieties are more suited to Maipu’s terroir than white grapes, despite the growing number of well-made Chardonnays. In truth, even the best Malbec is often inferior to the top examples produced in the Uco Valley. Maipu-grown Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc, however, can be outstanding.

The Excellence of Maipu’s Cabernet Varieties

These two varieties reach an apogee in the gravelly soils of Maipu; Cabernet Sauvignon is intense and forceful, bursting with flavors of cassis and blueberries. So, too, is the best Cabernet Franc a revelation: silky smooth and incredibly complex, it invokes the cru classé wines of Saint Emilion.

As Zuccardi underlines, some of the top cuvées are vinified and matured in neutral vessels; however, a percentage of new oak can flatter the variety and enhance its structure. Kalós 59N Cabernet Franc, for example, uses the Burgundian cold soak method prior to fermentation, gently extracting color and tannin at low temperatures for about 20 days.

Vinification will then occur at under 77°F to maintain freshness before the wine is aged in a mixture of American and French oak for up to 12 months. The result is a splendid example of why Mendoza should not limit itself to Malbec. Open, expressive, and beautifully textured, it offers a cornucopia of red and black fruit on the mid palate. Intense in color and rich in extract, Maipu Cabernet Franc deserves worldwide acclaim.

Maipu gastronomy

Maipu is singularly famous for hosting one of Argentina’s top restaurants: Casa El Enemigo. Housed in a leading bodega, it is owned by a passionate husband-and-wife team, Adrianna Catena and Alejandro Vigil. Together, they oversee an inventive and eclectic menu that dispenses with local cliches: think lamb goulash and cacao ravioli rather than a smorgasbord of chargrilled meat.

Meanwhile, the small town of Maipu, just southeast of Mendoza, offers its fair share of good eateries, ranging from rustic haunts to super-chic destinations popular with moneyed Mendocinos. Suffice it to say that steak is always on the menu!