Burgundy Wine Region Guide

Geography and terroir

Burgundy is a geographically vast region encompassing Chablis (98 miles east of Paris), the Côte d’Or, and the Côte Chalonnaise. It also includes the Mâconnais and the vineyards of Beaujolais, situated less than 60 minutes from Lyon. Therefore, a tidy summation of this fragmented wine-growing area is impossible.

Yet Burgundy enjoys a continental climate defined by cold winters and (relatively) dry summers. Temperatures hover around the late 70s in the summer, with approximately 740mm of annual rainfall. But there are significant variances in soil and macroclimate, as we will discover.

Chablis

Located in the Yonne département of northeastern France, Chablis has been producing tense, mineral-infused Chardonnay wines for many centuries. Indeed, this great appellation permits only one white grape variety cultivated on white Kimmeridgian limestone. This produces an exquisite, precise expression of Chardonnay, with signature oyster shell, gunflint, and citrus aromas.

Traditionally, Chablis was rarely aged in new barrique. The underlying philosophy here was to accentuate the bright fruit of cool-climate Chardonnay rather than try to produce a facsimile of Meursault. Yet certain producers, such as William Fèvre, argue that maturation in older barrels adds welcome structure and potency to the wine.

Côte d’Or

This is where they make the most exalted – and expensive – Burgundy wines. Running from just south of Dijon to the village of Santenay, the Côte d’Or splits into two distinct areas: Côte de Nuits and Côte de Beaune. Generally speaking, the Côte de Nuits is known for producing complex, elegant, and structured reds, while Beaune is known for its lighter reds and classic whites.

Production from the Côte de Nuits is almost exclusively red. Gevrey-Chambertin is one of the most famous names in the region. It has 26 premier crus, including the famous Clos Saint-Jacques.

South of the village begins the great chain of grand crus that runs almost to the southern edge of the village of Vosne Romanée. Gevrey should, at any level, distinguish itself by greater power, concentration, and structure than its neighboring villages. Morey-Saint-Denis lacks the glamor of Gevrey and Chambolle but boasts 20 premier crus and four grand crus. Chambolle Musigny, known for producing elegant, light Burgundy, houses the grand cru of Le Musigny within its boundaries, uniquely expressing the elegant beauty of red Burgundy.

Côte de Beaune

Meanwhile, the world has long associated the Côte de Beaune with the most sublime Chardonnay. However, it also contains some very prestigious red wine villages, including Pommard and Volnay. Moving south, we arrive at Meursault, one of the three biggest villages in the Côte d’Or, the most important white wine village. Here, they make some of the finest white wines in Burgundy: intense, stylish, and rich. There are no grand crus but plenty of fine premier crus.

Next door is arguably the world’s most famous white village, Puligny-Montrachet. ‘Puligny’ and ‘world’s best’ often share the same sentence. The village includes the Grand Crus Chevalier-Montrachet and Le Montrachet. Le Montrachet is the greatest and most expensive white wine of all time, capable of marvelous concentration, sublime proportions, and exquisite complexity.

As well as the continuation of Grand Crus Le Montrachet and Batard Montrachet, the village of Chassagne-Montrachet adds the tiny 1.57-hectare grand cru of Criots-Bâtard-Montrachet. To quote the late author Clive Coates MW: “The top Montrachets, Chevaliers, and Bâtards are wines to drink on bended knees, with heartfelt and humble thanks.” Many collectors feel the same.

Côte Chalonnaise

The Côte Chalonnaise, like the Côte d’Or, dedicates the vast majority of its vineyards to Chardonnay and Pinot Noir grapes. Yet the Chalonnaise is not a continuation of the Côte d’Or; it is an area of less sheltered rolling hills where grapes ripen later, and the wines are light. However, as a source of quality and value, the best producers can provide a real alternative to lesser villages further north.

Rully is known for making good whites; the best have a real touch of class. Another village to watch out for is Mercurey, the region’s most important appellation. Most of the wine is structured, rich, and intense from a top year and producer, so you can buy confidently. Domaine Aubert de Villaine, among others, produces a small amount of Aligoté in the village of Bouzeron. The best wines are fruit-forward and fresh – a nice alternative to Chablis.

The Mâconnais

Welcome to the heartland of good-value Burgundy. Located 60 miles northwest of the city of Lyon, the Mâconnais has a warmer climate that yields Chardonnay wines with good ripeness and structure, produced across a diverse collection of appellations. The most highly regarded are Mâcon, Mâcon-Villages, Saint-Véran, and Pouilly-Fuissé.

Beaujolais

Beaujolais is the home of juicy, fragrant reds produced from the Gamay grape. The best are utterly delicious: fruit-driven and wonderfully fresh. Moreover, there is a good supply of premium Beaujolais, so prices have remained very reasonable and stable. The star villages of the zone, including Brouilly, Fleurie, Morgon, and Moulin-à-Vent, produce the finest wines that can improve in bottle for several years. However, Beaujolais Nouveau is best drunk young.

Winemaking and regional classifications

Burgundy is a region of structure and hierarchy where vineyards are ranked and graded according to the perceived quality of the terroir. From the perspective of collectors and buyers, this classification is as important as an individual producer’s reputation or the winemaking employed. In Burgundy, terroir is king.

The Hierarchy of Burgundy Vineyards

The basic hierarchy in the Côte d’Or has remained unchanged for centuries. The crème de la crème are Burgundy’s Grand Cru vineyards, followed by premier Crus – always associated with one of 25 villages. Then comes the level of the village itself (i.e., Meursault), before the sub-regional appellations, and finally, the generic appellations of Bourgogne Blanc/Bourgogne Rouge.

The ethos behind this strictly enforced classification is simple. As far as a Burgundian is concerned, one vineyard site (even ones close together) is different and perhaps inferior or superior to another. Where the wine came from is crucial, not the grape variety.

Nuanced Winemaking in Burgundy

The best domaines take a nuanced approach to winemaking in Burgundy, ensuring the fruit and terroir character shine through. This is achieved with meticulous work in the vineyard and winery, carefully avoiding over-extraction in the case of Pinot Noir.

Most favor a certain percentage of stems in the vat (in good vintages) as it enhances complexity without subverting terroir. The critical mass is also convinced that vinification should reach a relatively high temperature to extract just the right amount of color, flavor, and tannin to produce quintessential red Burgundy: elegance personified.

Winemakers in Burgundy typically age both their red and white wines in wood, though the specifics of wood type and aging duration can vary greatly. Conservatives in the wine world argue that new barriques overpower the unique character of the grapes (terroir) and should be avoided entirely. Yet this is fundamental to the winemaking philosophy at DRC, Leroy, and Domaine Dujac. This debate will run and run.

Discover more about Burgundy Wine Classifications

The lowdown

In the 20th century, Burgundy had no serious challengers. There were drinkable Pinot Noirs from Italy’s Alto-Adige region, some quaffable wines from Germany/Alsace, and a smattering of Loire Pinots that were pleasantly fruity. Meanwhile, the best Chardonnays from Australia and Napa bore little resemblance to the supreme elegance of Montrachet. Once again, Burgundy expert Clive Coates had his finger on the pulse.

The late author said:

“Other parts of the world, particularly California and to a lesser extent Australia, can and do produce plenty of competition for village Burgundy. But at the Grand Cru level, the best white Burgundies remain unequaled. Elsewhere, the terroirs have not yet been found or have not yet been correctly exploited.”

Indeed, even the most hardened skeptic had to concede that Burgundy was very special – an inimitable combination of soil, climate, and tradition.

Chardonnay and Pinot Noir

But is this assessment still valid today? Particularly when one considers the awesome quality of Chardonnay wines made in Margaret River and the cooler parts of California. This reality makes it increasingly difficult to justify a myopic fixation on the Côte d’Or. Once upon a time, New World expressions of this flexible variety were associated with butterscotch, pineapple, and oak – hardly a facsimile of Puligny-Montrachet.

Yet times have changed, and so has New World Chardonnay. It is a case of out with the butterscotch and in with the elegance. Today, you’re awarded with all the wonderful complexity if you gravitate toward cool-climate spots like Victoria’s Mornington Peninsula or California’s Santa Barbara County. This complexity – and finesse – defines white Burgundy.

New World Winemakers Rise to the Challenge

And what of Pinot Noir? Growers in the US, New Zealand, Germany, Australia, and even England are producing stunning wines from this mercurial grape. These wines are reds that run the whole gamut from light and crunchy to exotically voluptuous. From that perspective, it is becoming difficult to justify paying a large premium for the label alone. Today, New World winemakers can rival – or even trump – Burgundy as its own game.

Enduring Appeal of Burgundy

Of course, this matters not to collectors. They will continue paying exorbitant sums for the most famous Grand Crus and domaines. However, the appeal is not simply Burgundy’s global cachet or the immense bragging rights that come with cracking open a Domaine de la Romanée-Conti La Tâche ($25,000!). On the contrary, Burgundy’s unique soils complement Pinot Noir and Chardonnay in a way that has no direct parallel.

The Mystique of Burgundy’s Terroir

Generations have studied the geology of Burgundy, which dates back to the Jurassic period. Despite this dedicated study, a complete understanding of the relationship between the soil’s diverse minerals and the resulting plant varieties remains elusive. Thus, you can taste 50 Burgundies made in the same vintage, and in the same house, yet they will all be remarkably different. Such is the great mystique of Burgundy: it tickles your sensual and intellectual fancies with equal force.

Close your eyes when drinking Meursault Charmes and be transported to the Côte d’Or’s fractured, ancient geology. No other region can provide that.

Burgundy gastronomy

People regard Burgundy as France’s seminal gastronomic region, with only the globalized offerings of Paris rivaling it. The four most famous ingredients, Charolais beef, Bresse chicken, mustard, and red wine, are used in various classical dishes that reach an apogee in the legendary Boeuf bourguignon.

How could beef marinated and cooked in young wine with mushrooms, onions, carrots, and bacon be so utterly delicious? The answer is simple: fresh seasonal ingredients, cooked with skill and panache, represent the pinnacle of culinary excellence. Bon appetit!

Burgundy Gastronomy Guide: Read more