Malleco Wine Region Guide

Geography and terroir

The striking landscapes of the Malleco Valley are a world apart. Located approximately 540 kilometers south of the country’s handsome capital, growers cultivate vines against a backdrop of crystal-clear lakes and dense forests. The Araucanía province, to which Malleco belongs, has little in common with the Valle Central. Today, viticulture is centered in the small city of Traiguén, named after the Mapudungun word for waterfall, trayen. It’s very apt: nature runs wild in this southern paradise, with rare flora and fauna encouraged to flourish as part of a major biodiversity initiative.

According to Wines of Chile:

“The first vineyard in Malleco (Ma-YEH-co) was planted in 1995. Colder and with a shorter growing season than its neighbor (Bio Bio) to the north, it is also, with 51 inches of rain per year, very wet in Malleco – wetter than England’s winegrowing areas! Luckily, a lot of the rain falls in winter and, during the growing season, the stiff winds help keep vineyards fungus-free.”

But then, what else would you expect of a region found at a latitude of 38°S, competing with New Zealand’s Central Otago for the title of the world’s most southerly vineyard! The area’s cool climate, combined with the abundant winter rainfall (approximately 1300mm per annum), provides ideal conditions for Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, which were introduced in the late 20th century. The vineyards also benefit from both a temperate summer season and substantial diurnal temperature variation, which helps growers retain acidity and aromas in their wines. These factors, combined with a relatively short ripening period, are highly conducive to the production of distinctly refreshing whites, with alcohol levels rarely exceeding 13.5%. The ancient terroirs of the Mosel in Germany offer a valuable point of comparison, where fruit and acid are in perfect balance.

Yet this is no copycat region. The Malleco Valley is renowned for its intense sunlight and stunning mountain scenery (unlike northwestern Germany), yielding wines of outstanding purity, concentration, and vibrancy. The soils, too, are unique to southern Chile: volcanic in origin, they contain red clay and black sand particles that allow rain to drain into the substratum. Due to the (relatively) inclement climate, dry farming is standard practice in Malleco; vines are forced to create extensive root systems used to extract moisture while sugars and acid accumulate in the berries. This slow and even pace of ripening yields wines of superior quality and structure, while bulk labels are unheard of in this embryonic zone. Red, white, or sparkling, what every bottle has in common is incredible freshness, balance, and perfume.

Meanwhile, investors have been moving south lately, planting vines in the very cold and wet Osorno region. On the southern fringes of Chile’s wine map (980 kilometers from Santiago), Torres has been experimenting with Pinot Noir and Sauvignon Blanc, cultivated opposite monkey puzzle trees and snow-capped peaks.

Anita Jackson, UK director of Wines of Chile, said:

“Home to just a handful of producers (currently there are five), with the first vines planted here in 2000, this is Chile’s southernmost, coldest and wettest wine region,”

“The average annual temperature here is 50 F. What makes viticulture possible is the moderating influence of the Lago (lake) Ranco and the Bueno River that flows out of the lake. Not surprisingly, sparkling wine from both Chardonnay and Pinot Noir is made here, as well as Riesling and Sauvignon Blanc wines of great purity.”

The Chilean thirst for adventure never ends.

Winemaking and regional classifications

Is Malleco the new Central Otago? Judging by the stunning quality of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir being made by Vinos Baettig, that seems a distinct possibility.

Over the past 11 years, co-owner Francisco Baettig has invested countless hours into understanding, perfecting, and nurturing his terroirs. Working with agronomists and local experts, Baettig has demarcated eight distinct climats: Traiguén, Secano Rojo, Clos de la Cuñada, El Primo, Llaima, El Chuir, El Sufrido, and Triangulo. Each one of these plots offers a unique interpretation of Burgundy’s two signature grapes – a magical combination of site, climate, and position. Like the greatest vignerons of the Côte d’Or, Baettig understands that a Grand Cru is not made in the cellar.

This is particularly true of Francisco’s Selección de Parcelas range: a Chilean equivalent of a Burgundy’ Premier Cru’, these wines are made in small volumes for a discerning audience. The gentle handling of the 2019 Selección de Parcelas Pinot Noir, for instance, is characteristic of the estate’s philosophy.

At its core, Vinos Baettig emphasizes site expression over power and brute force: Pinot Noir is a mercurial and challenging grape with a tendency to lose tannin and flavor if the vinification is too heavy-handed. Therefore, some (ripe) stems are included in the fermentation, optimizing complexity without running the risk of harsh green structure. Only wild yeasts are employed, thereby increasing wine complexity without relying on artificial inputs.

Neither is Baettig a fan of stainless steel, despite the precision it offers in regulating vinification temperatures. Yet Burgundian wisdom suggests that warm-to-hot temperatures are required to extract good color, aroma, and tannin from Pinot berries; therefore, Vinos Baettig only uses larger (300-liter) oak barrels in the cellar. After the post-fermentation maceration, a certain (varying) percentage of the wine is matured in new wood, although it is seldom higher than 40 percent. The bodega adopts a similar approach to its Chardonnay wines: whole bunches are pressed to release very pure must, fermented with wild yeast strains in French barrels, and aged in the same (about 10% new). Every winemaking stage is carefully, lovingly, and meticulously carried out.

Indeed, you can taste it in the wines. Baettig is a master of terroir expression, infused with a crystalline purity that is rarely encountered in the New World. These supple, deeply complex Burgundy varietals are in high demand worldwide. This is partly due to the small volumes released, although many regions, not least Oregon and Otago, can provide good facsimiles of red and white Burgundy.

Yet, in the vineyards of Malleco, there are no serious challengers today. In less than 12 years, Vinos Baettig has set the gold standard.

Malleco gastronomy

In a remote corner of the Zona Sur, Traiguén remains hidden from the hustle and bustle of mass tourism. Yet this small provincial conurbation is no slouch in the restaurant department despite its considerable distance (over 500 kilometers) from Santiago. Catering primarily to residents of the city, Traiguén’s eateries serve up an honest, authentic fare, including super-fresh seafood – try a mussel-squid risotto, the obligatory ceviche, and grilled meats. Destinations are at their most lively at weekends when all of Traiguén celebrates in style.