Bío Bío Wine Region

Geography and terroir

Traveling south from the vineyards of Itata, oenophiles will encounter the (relatively) small but growing region of Bío Bío. First planted by Spanish conquistadors over 500 years ago, the area under vine is located more than 420 kilometers from Santiago, sandwiched between the Andes Mountains and the Coastal Range. To the west is the vibrant port city of Concepcion – the Pacific lies just beyond. Traditionally, vine-growing was in the hands of small-scale farmers, selling grapes to cooperatives and big companies for a derisory sum.

Even today, growers may receive no more than 20 cents per kilo of fruit, making it hard for families to bottle their own wines. Moreover, a thriving bulk wine industry centered around Itata damaged Zona Sur’s reputation significantly in the 20th century, albeit there was a ready market for this low-grade dross. This is painfully ironic, as Bío Bío offers a rich repository of dry-farmed old bush vines, some approaching 200 years old.

These precious resources, however, are taken a lot more seriously today. Meanwhile, Chile’s larger (but quality-focused) companies started to invest heavily in the nation’s cooler terroirs at the turn of the Millennium, sourcing very marketable Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, and Sauvignon Blanc from this Pacific-influenced vineyard. This acted as a great spur to produce better quality wines, accentuated by a declining market for entry-level brands.

According to Wines of Chile:

“Traditionally, Chile’s far south, over 350 miles south of Santiago, in Mapuche Indian country, was considered too cold (a Winkler I region, with 2,012 F – 2,192 F-degree days), too wet (the coastal mountains are lower here) and, in parts, too fertile to be viable. But the renewed worldwide interest in cool climate style wines has meant that heavy hitters have made a home here, attracted to the potential for making racy and aromatic wines from Pinot Noir, Riesling, Chardonnay, and Sauvignon Blanc.

“The ‘deep south’ location also ensures more sunlight hours during the growing season. Ironically, despite the area’s traditional reputation as being inhospitable to winegrowing, a strand of 140-year old Malbec vines was discovered, and there are pockets of old vine País and Moscatel.”

Today, there are about 1290 hectares of vines in Bío Bío, grown in a climate with little in common with the Valle Central. In essence, this is frontier wine country: intense winds, heavy rainfall, and frost attacks keep everyone on their toes in the valley, a concomitant of greater exposure to Pacific influences and the chilling effect of the Humboldt Current that originates in the Antarctic. The region’s cool-climate varietals, increasingly popular in the international export markets, benefit enormously from cool nights, although elevation is relatively low in the zone.

Nevertheless, Bío Bío is the ideal place to grow Riesling and Pinot Noir: the pace of ripening is slow and even, leading to a harmonious balance of sugars, flavor compounds, and acids in the must–alcohol levels usually under 13.5%. Combining alluvial, clay, and volcanic terroirs yields structured, elegant reds with firm instead of lush tannins. The latter has fallen spectacularly out of fashion in recent times.

Winemaking and regional classifications

The most remarkable of Chile’s newer wine regions, Bío Bío offers a rich variety of styles, encompassing the familiar, esoteric, and everything in between!

From the outset, it was obvious that classic German and Burgundy varieties would thrive in these conditions: a temperate oceanic climate and volcanic soils are conducive to ripe fruit and great freshness, stealing a march with hipster somms in NYC and beyond.

At the same time, producers have been investing in new vineyard areas closer to the coast, working with local growers to harvest the best possible fruit. Particular attention is now being paid to matching grape variety to soil type. At the same time, very old bush vines (some pushing 200 years) are a unique viticultural resource that deserves to be treasured. Fortunately, passionate winemakers like Derek Mossman Knapp and Roberto Enríquez are fighting tooth and nail to preserve these unique specimens, pushing back against companies who would grub them up and install productive younger vines.

Of the emerging styles, many critics would argue that Pinot Noir, Riesling, and Sauvignon Blanc are Bío Bío’s greatest triumphs. Yet there is another grape variety, long established in the Zona Sur, that we feel deserves its moment in the spotlight.

That grape is Cinsault. Loved and despised by vignerons in equal measure, Cinsault was traditionally used in Languedoc and Rhône Valley blends, contributing perfume and bite to the finished article. When cropped at high yields, it can produce dreary wine: light, pale, and dilute in flavor. However, the best dry-farmed Cinsault of Bío Bío is a magnificent drop full of sappy, floral fruit and elegant tannins.

According to Aurelio Montes, founder of Viña Montes:

“Cinsault was actually imported into Chile after the Chillán earthquake of 1939. It was initially planted in the cooler terroirs of Itata, flanked by the Pacific, and cultivated by local farmers. Today, I regard Cinsault as one of Chile’s most promising up-and-coming styles: the soft fruit and light texture reminds me of Beaujolais, with a moderate alcohol level and vibrant acidity only enhancing the grape’s appeal.”

It is also a variety that requires a gentle touch in the winery. Long blended with Syrah and Grenache in Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Cinsault does not respond well to over-extraction; most winemakers seek to emphasize the grape’s aromatics rather than attempting to make a facsimile of Mourvedre or Syrah. That is very much the philosophy at Bisquertt, owners of the Crazy Rows brand; it continues to make an exceptional Cinsault wine, full of bright fruit and palate-tingling freshness. The fruit is sourced from very old parcels located 20 km from the Pacific Ocean, grown on granite soils that have been transferred over centuries by erosion from the Coastal Range.

After the harvest, hand-picked berries are transferred to the winery, and the bunches are destemmed – Bisquett does not believe in incorporating stem tannins, at least not when handling Cinsault. The grapes are then fermented in concrete tanks at moderately high temperatures, using wild yeast strains to enhance complexity, a practice – some would say religion – that is very common in Burgundy. After just 14 days in concrete, a relatively light and juicy style will emerge, unencumbered by new oak or heavy extraction. The variety, as Aurelio Montes underlines, “is a long way off equaling the popularity of Malbec or Sauvignon Blanc,” despite the best efforts of its global champions. Yet Cinsault is a wine for the age: light, food-friendly, and supremely elegant. With a sustained push, it could be the next big thing.

Bío Bío gastronomy

Bío Bío is a relatively short drive away from Los Ángeles, a small provincial city that has little in common with the home of Tinseltown. Yet it has one attraction: a good selection of bars and restaurants epitomizing welcoming, relaxed, and friendly Chilean hospitality. As long as you keep your expectations in check- Michelin gastronomy has no place here – then a slice of good old-fashioned home cooking can be just the ticket after a day’s wine-tasting. Good seafood is always fresh and widely available, from merluza (hake) to adadejo (pollock), served grilled, fried, or as part of a rich and hearty soup.