San Antonio Valley Wine Region Guide

Geography and terroir

It was Gustavo Llona, erstwhile owner of Viña Leyda, who first spotted the potential of this maritime-influenced vineyard. Working alongside the Fernandez family, Llona planted a few acres of Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay vines in an undulating region west of Santiago, some 90 kilometers from Chile’s dynamic capital. To the north is the Casablanca Valley, while the western border faces the Pacific Ocean. Because of the water’s proximity (less than 35 kilometers) and the welcome presence of brisk morning mists, Llona realized that cool-climate varietals would thrive here, not least the aforementioned Chardonnay and Pinot Noir.

Today, Viña Leyda is owned by the very capable San Pedro company, which also managesViña Tabalí. In the 21st century, they have been joined by an expanding firmament of eager investors, keen to exploit every advantage the valley offers. It says much for their skill and dedication, that San Antonio has developed rapidly over the past 15 years, earning great respect from critics and international buyers.

Recognition of Unique Terroirs

Indeed, there are now approximately 300 hectares under vine, planted in a beautiful landscape bordered by the coastal city of San Antonio to the west and the Casablanca Valley to the north. Meanwhile, in the southeastern corner of the zone, one will discover the Leyda Valley – another of Chile’s premier cool-climate terroirs. There is also the subregion of Lo Abarca to consider, a small enclave to the north of San Antonio. Located less than 5km from the Pacific, this very special terroir is renowned for its exceptionally cool growing environment; Casa Marin campaigned tirelessly for many years, arguing that Lo Abarca should not be subsumed into the San Antonio Valley DO. In 2018, Casa Marin won the argument.

As in Sonoma, the Pacific heavily influences the climatic conditions in the valley, responsible for cold morning fogs and chilly night-time breezes. And, unlike the Central Valley, the vineyards in the province of Aconcagua are directly exposed to the ocean, which delivers cool nights and outstanding quality fruit. Moreover, there is generally no rush to harvest grapes in San Antonio, as most rainfall occurs in winter. As a result, growers benefit from an extremely long growing season, with flavor and phenolic ripeness occurring at a moderate pace. This persistent marine influence, rather than altitude, produces such crystalline flavors in both dry whites and super-elegant reds. In cooler vintages, alcohol levels can often be lower than equivalent abv levels in the Côte-d’Or – the latter has experienced several torrid harvests over the past five years.

Cool-Climate Wines

Even in warmer years, however, wines from the region can showcase acidity levels that invoke the crisp texture and brilliant raciness of Mosel Riesling. Top climats (vineyard sites) are usually planted on the higher slopes, where intense sunlight and diurnal temperature variation combine to spectacular effect. The leading lights of the valley, particularly Leyda Syrah and Riesling, can be impressively long-lived.

Meanwhile, a specially constructed pipeline transports essential water from the Maipo River. The soils, too, are of exceptional quality: infertile outcrops of red clay on granite and some calcareous limestone. These well-drained terroirs, rich in minerals, suit both red and white varieties; such conditions encourage vines to send their root systems deep into the substratum in search of nutrients and moisture. Thus, excessive yields are rarely a major problem in the valley unless the plant receives abundant irrigation water. Spring frost, however, can lead to significant crop losses unless precautions are taken.

Winemaking and regional classifications

The Chilean attitude to winemaking can vary dramatically, ranging from the non-interventionist school to the sophisticated techniques used in the production of Maipo Cabernet. One example of the ‘hands-off’ approach is found in the cellars of Herrera Alvarado: owners Carolina Alvarado and Arturo Herrera take their inspiration from the natural winemakers of Europe, emphasizing the role of terroir while downplaying the value of ‘artificial’ inputs. Using fruit grown according to biodynamic principles, a typical vinification process will be undertaken without the addition of sulfur (normally used to prevent oxidation), fining, chemical additives, or filtration.

Cuero de Vaca

The bodega even produces a style made in cured cowhides, appropriately called Cuero de Vaca. The Carmenere bunches are carefully sorted in the cellar before being fermented (using whole clusters) in cowhide barrels with only natural yeasts – there is no temperature control or SO2. This potent concoction is then macerated on its skins for about 17 days and subsequently aged in neutral wood for 15 months.

Yet this rather heterodox perspective (notwithstanding Alvarado’s ingenuity) is not representative of the critical mass. For example, the winemaking team at Casa Marin endeavors to make a Pinot Noir that pays homage to the Grand Crus of Burgundy – they strive for fruit and finesse instead of power and strength. High alcohol, meanwhile, is almost seen as an embarrassment, however difficult it is to maintain (relatively) low abvs in warmer vintages.

Nevertheless, a small amount of sulfur is used to prevent spoilage, while temperature control aids in the extraction of ripe phenolics. Using top-quality fruit from the estate’s Litoral Vineyard, Casa Marin ferments a mixture of whole bunches and crushed berries in the vat, relying on wild yeast to kickstart the process in stainless steel tanks. An upper limit of 71.6°F ensures good extraction without burning out the fruity esters and flavors of the grape—a major risk when winemakers eschew any form of temperature control. After a series of daily manual punch-downs, the wine is matured in used oak barrels for 14 months.

Leading critic Tim Atkin MW awarded 95 points to the 2021 vintage, describing it as “elegant and refined,” with aromas of “bright cherry and red fruits, with notes of fresh blueberry and a smoky touch.”

According to Casa Marin:

“The flavors are distinctive, underscored by firm acidity and a smooth texture. The palate showcases a well-structured profile with persistent red fruit flavors and a lingering, balanced finish.“

Our experience suggests that Leyda is one of Chile’s most exciting terroirs for producing Burgundy varietals, comparable to the elegance one detects in Sonoma and New Zealand. Yet, despite the undeniable hype surrounding Chilean Pinot, it is not our favorite delicacy from the San Antonio Valley.

The Rise of Riesling

That honor falls to Riesling. Imported in the 19th century, the signature grape of the Alsace region reaches an apogee in the clay-granite soils of San Antonio, where it yields a kind of perfumed essence that is spellbinding alongside Pacific cuisine. Intensely aromatic and intense, Riesling’s primary fruit (citrus and melon) uncoils after 5-7 years in bottle, revealing notes of honey, lightly browned toast, and the famous whiff of kerosene.

At Casa Marin, the aim is to produce a very expressive, fruity, and yet dry style. This process involves handling the juice protectively, gently pressing whole bunches to avoid skin contact, and fermenting the must in stainless steel tanks at precisely controlled temperatures (44-53ºF). A long, slow vinification on the fine lees at low temperatures adds texture and richness to the wine, bottled free of any oak influence. What emerges in your glass is a sublime concoction of fruit, acid, and alcohol. It is one of Chile’s greatest wine bargains, even if the world will pay a far higher price for barrel-aged Pinot Noir.

San Antonio Valley gastronomy

If you want to avoid the tourist hordes, head to the lively and likable port city of San Antonio. Granted, this is no Valparaiso – the architecture is unremarkable, and the city’s national monuments are few and far between. Yet it does offer a surprising collection of good restaurants, serving (and this will shock no one) fresh seafood that is often caught, sold, and cooked in fewer than five hours. Gambas al Ajillo and chilled Leyda Sauvignon Blanc would be our preference.