Arribes Wine Region Guide

Winemaking and regional classifications

For many aficionados of the esoteric and niche, Juan Garcia is one of Spain’s most exciting grapes. Indigenous to Arribes, it is rarely seen outside the appellation boundaries, despite the global popularity of varieties like Tempranillo. Yet there is much to admire in this obscure viticultural treasure, which is sometimes blended with small amounts of Bruñal (another style shrouded in obscurity!) and Rufete.

At its best, Juan Garcia produces medium-bodied and spicy wines with a striking bouquet: licorice, red berries, woodsmoke, and thyme can all be detected. It is joined by several red blends and varietal wines made in the DO, typically involving Tempranillo, Garnacha Tinta, and Mencia. Over 85% of all wines produced here are red, and the range of styles is extremely diverse: oak-aged Juan Garcia, balsamic Tempranillo blends, floral Mencia, and pungent Grenache can all be found. Therefore it isn’t easy to generalize about winemaking methods, as they vary considerably from producer to producer – and variety to variety. As elsewhere, the DO classifies wines according to the length of aging before release, with Crianza, Reserva, and Gran Reservas priced in ascending order.

Arribes Blanco is also worth seeking out. Although the overall volumes are dwarfed by the reds, an increasing amount of very fine white is made in the DO, often based on 100% Malvasia. However, Verdejo and/or Albillo occasionally make it into the blend. The local expression of Malvasia is noted for its exotic perfume, a heady mix of floral aromas, and more savory, bitter notes. Local rosados (rosés) are fruit-forward and very aromatic, typically containing a large dollop of Garnacha Tinta. Like the Arribes whites, it is becoming increasingly popular as modern consumers drink more chilled beverages and less red.

Geography and terroir

The vineyards of Arribes are located within touching distance of the Portuguese border, west of the city of Zamora. The etymology of the DO title is the Latin phrase ad ripa, which translates as ‘on the banks’. It is very apt: vineyards flank both sides of the Douro River as it winds towards Portugal.

Indeed, the landscape is among the most beautiful in Castilla y Leon, with ochre-colored plains revealing steep terraces planted to vines that slope down towards the river banks. The local growing conditions are most advantageous as infertile soils prevent vigor and ensure that the yield is seldom high in this part of northwestern Spain. The terroir comprises shallow, sandy soils, with metamorphic rocks covering the upper layer. These poor soils encourage vine roots to dig deep in search of moisture – a scarce commodity in the summer months. Indeed, temperatures routinely exceed 95 degrees in July and August, while winters are long and cold.

But, like other hot-climate regions in Spain, elevation offers some respite from the heat—Hurrah for diurnal temperature variation (a significant difference between day and evening temperature). The temperature drops as late afternoon turns to dusk, and the vine’s metabolism slows. Thus, ripening occurs slower, and acidity is not lost in the quest for phenolic ripeness. Yet the region’s abundance of old bush vines can be relied upon to yield smaller berries of concentrated fruit. In this climate, under-ripe and ‘green’ tannins seldom occur.

The lowdown

Arribes is a quintessential Spanish revival story: the acreage shrank dramatically in the 1900s as the emerging generation left to pursue careers in the major cities after the local economy stagnated. However, outside investors and previous owners’ relatives made their way to Arribes in the 20th century, attracted by the spectacular landscape and unique terroir. Today the DO is a niche player in Castilla y Leon, with less than 20 wineries and 400 hectares under vine. And yet, it is one of the wider region’s biggest success stories. It has numerous strengths: the regulatory council is progressive and quality focused; therefore, it has the buy-in of every producer in the zone. Moreover, some genuinely exceptional oenologists work in Arribes, not least Charlotte Allen and Thyge Benned Jensen.

Allen is credited with turning an ailing nightclub into a thriving boutique winery! Visiting the area in the early 2000s, it was love at first sight for this pioneering winemaker; installing fermentation tanks on the former dance floor, Allen made her first vintage in 2007. The approach is very minimalist at Bodega AlmaRoja, with sulfur kept to an absolute minimum. As a result, her wines show great purity and terroir character and are among the best in the appellation.

Meanwhile, Thyge Benned Jensen (Danish) was lured away from a career in management to a slower pace of life in Castilla y Leon. Arriving in 2016, Jensen purchased just over 6 hectares of vineyards in the DO, renting some additional land planted to very old vines. Bucking the trend, the Danish superstar picks very early and includes a great deal of the stems in the fermentation, producing very fragrant and fresh wines that showcase moderate alcohol, great finesse, and grippy tannins.

Moreover, thanks to the hard work of the Consejo Regulador, these beautiful wines are starting to find an audience abroad. Today roughly 25 percent of all production is sent to markets as diverse as the US, Mexico, China, and Ireland; hip sommeliers are getting excited about these delicious wines, and so too are their trend-conscious customers. After decades in the doldrums, Arribes is back!

Arribes gastronomy

The Spanish culinary timetable can take some getting used to: the evening meal, la cena, may be eaten as late as 10 pm in the restaurants of Zamora. But this is one part of the day you don’t want to miss! Expect succulent ham, exquisite game, meltingly tender lamb chops (chuletas), and an incredible array of tapas in the city’s lively bars. Some of the best tapas are amazingly simple: for most Spaniards, there’s no more mouthwatering prospect than a few thin, velvety slices of Jamon de Bellota, made from swine fed on acorns. Heaven with a glass of Juan Garcia.

Guide to the Gastronomy of Castilla y Leon: Read more